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Advice please


Toneloc521

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 Test lamp across the battery posts. Got lamp?

NO... charge the battery

 

 

Test across the cable ends on the battery. Lamp on?

 

NO... clean repair or replace the cable ends

YES.... good

 

 

 

So I hooked it up to Mazda and it started firing again 

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Is this the stock carburetor? The idle is not on the primary jet. It has it's own circuit.

 

101_0096.jpg

 

The idle mix screw is just above those 2 little pipes. Unscrew it out counting the turns so it goes back the same. That screw is loose so don't drop and lose it. Get a can of carb cleaner with a straw and stick in the hole and spray. Re assemble.

 

Get running and warm up. Turn screw in or out.... looking for the best running, fastest idle speed. Turn idle down and repeat in then out till you find the best idle. Allow several seconds between 1/4 turns for engine to alter. Keep going untill you can't make it idle any better and the idle speed is around 700.

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Its a weber.

 

I cannot remember and tried looking back.  You said the truck used to run but you had to feather the throttle to keep it idling?  Right?  And it had always been like this since you got it?

 

If so, I would first make sure the idle speed is even set right first.

 

I also would not rebuild it yet.  You can clean the carb without removing it from the truck.  I take the top off mine when needed and blow everything out.  Just be careful not to drop anything down the throat.

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Well I know nothing about Webers.

 

1 hour ago, bilzbobaggins said:

Its a weber.

 

I cannot remember and tried looking back.  You said the truck used to run but you had to feather the throttle to keep it idling?  Right?  And it had always been like this since you got it?

 

If so, I would first make sure the idle speed is even set right first.

 

I also would not rebuild it yet.  You can clean the carb without removing it from the truck.  I take the top off mine when needed and blow everything out.  Just be careful not to drop anything down the throat.

 

Yes, someone may have simply messed with the idle speed.

 

You could check the timing also. If you turn the distributor counter clockwise and retard the timing the engine will drop in RPMs. The idle may be correct but a PO messed with the timing.

 

Webers tend to get vacuum leaks around the base. There's an adapter plate, the bolts are notorious for coming loose, the owner over tightens it, the adapter cracks. Doesn't affect running but really affects idle mixtures.

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If he can keep it running by feathering the throttle, he's probably feeding it with the transition holes. Either the idle port is clogged, or the needle is screwed too far in. The fact that it was recently running fine leads me to believe it may have clogged up. If the primary idle jet is blocked, he wouldn't even be able to keep it running by feathering it.

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2 hours ago, bilzbobaggins said:

Its a weber.

 

I cannot remember and tried looking back.  You said the truck used to run but you had to feather the throttle to keep it idling?  Right?  And it had always been like this since you got it?

 

If so, I would first make sure the idle speed is even set right first.

 

I also would not rebuild it yet.  You can clean the carb without removing it from the truck.  I take the top off mine when needed and blow everything out.  Just be careful not to drop anything down the throat.

It ran up really good I drove it back from the coast and daily drove it for a couple weeks we cleaned the carb with the cleaner and it started bogging weirdly like it is starving for fuel

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1 hour ago, mainer311 said:

If he can keep it running by feathering the throttle, he's probably feeding it with the transition holes. Either the idle port is clogged, or the needle is screwed too far in. The fact that it was recently running fine leads me to believe it may have clogged up. If the primary idle jet is blocked, he wouldn't even be able to keep it running by feathering it.

Yes that’s what we are thinking I have a group of friends that I have been bouncing ideas off of and we think the main jet is plugged because I was driving trying to go into third and I’d push the accelerator and itd do nothing I’d pump it and it would eventually catch and rev and I’d try shifting into fourth at times and it did the same but I got it home from Keizer to Independence which is like 25-30 minute drive but it did this multiple times on the way home and I stop throttling to coast on a hill and it would just die on me it died twice in the way home that day but fires right back over or makes like a buzzing noise when you turn the key to start

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Agreed.  I could not remember if it used to idle.  So yes, most likely has junk in it.  

 

As I said earlier, you can do this work without removing it from the truck.

 

But dmike brings up a good point.  Make sure the adapter plate is not loose or cracked.  I got tired of mine adapter allen bolts vibrating loose.  I used red loctite on mine the last time.  Blue would not hold for more than 3-4 thousand miles.  Use at your own risk tho.

Edited by bilzbobaggins
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22 hours ago, Toneloc521 said:

Going back to the battery being dead thinking that may be it tho 

You think!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I meant the blue wire going to the distributor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. The condenser on the coil you don't need to run the motor

 

your chainging shit to fast and we cant keep up and your introducing proplems which now make this worse

 

is the ballast resisitor still there hooked up to the coil???? If not it burns up the points

a bad vaccum advance is NOT going to make the motor not start!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

No start or lights horn weak the battery cable is corroded/or cracked. still have ignition light till key turned is one sign

 

 

we might have lost another 521

 

Ill take it off your hands for 200$

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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9 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

You think!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I meant the blue wire going to the distributor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. The condenser on the coil you don't need to run the motor

 

your chainging shit to fast and we cant keep up and your introducing proplems which now make this worse

 

is the ballast resisitor still there hooked up to the coil???? If not it burns up the points

a bad vaccum advance is NOT going to make the motor not start!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

No start or lights horn weak the battery cable is corroded/or cracked. still have ignition light till key turned is one sign

 

 

we might have lost another 521

 

Ill take it off your hands for 200$

Hahaha your crazy man I’m not introducing anything new I replaced my spark plugs rotor distributor cap and ignition switch and coil that’s all I’ve done how is that introducing new problems? The resistor is still there everything is the exact same way as it was. I jumped it with my other car and it’s fine battery is just dead from sitting on the cold metal i didn’t ask if needed it to run the motor I was curious if I should replace it two totally different things the truck is in the same condition so what are you talking about? I’ll sell it to you for 2500 haha no less 

Edited by Toneloc521
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9 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

You think!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I meant the blue wire going to the distributor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. The condenser on the coil you don't need to run the motor

 

your chainging shit to fast and we cant keep up and your introducing proplems which now make this worse

 

is the ballast resisitor still there hooked up to the coil???? If not it burns up the points

a bad vaccum advance is NOT going to make the motor not start!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

No start or lights horn weak the battery cable is corroded/or cracked. still have ignition light till key turned is one sign

 

 

we might have lost another 521

 

Ill take it off your hands for 200$

And if you need to keep up pay attention to the conversation 

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I’m honestly positive it’s the carb needs cleaned at this point 

19 hours ago, bilzbobaggins said:

Agreed.  I could not remember if it used to idle.  So yes, most likely has junk in it.  

 

As I said earlier, you can do this work without removing it from the truck.

 

But dmike brings up a good point.  Make sure the adapter plate is not loose or cracked.  I got tired of mine adapter allen bolts vibrating loose.  I used red loctite on mine the last time.  Blue would not hold for more than 3-4 thousand miles.  Use at your own risk tho.

You and mike make the most sense the fuel filter does have some particles at the bottom so I have a filter to replace it with and the whole issue with the no power was the battery being completely dead it sat on the cold metal with the terminals off so I jumped the truck with my car and it turned on again I think the battery needs replaced

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22 hours ago, bilzbobaggins said:

Its a weber.

 

I cannot remember and tried looking back.  You said the truck used to run but you had to feather the throttle to keep it idling?  Right?  And it had always been like this since you got it?

 

If so, I would first make sure the idle speed is even set right first.

 

I also would not rebuild it yet.  You can clean the carb without removing it from the truck.  I take the top off mine when needed and blow everything out.  Just be careful not to drop anything down the throat.

I’m gonna just take the top off and clean it out and go from there. 

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9 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

You think!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I meant the blue wire going to the distributor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. The condenser on the coil you don't need to run the motor

 

your chainging shit to fast and we cant keep up and your introducing proplems which now make this worse

 

is the ballast resisitor still there hooked up to the coil???? If not it burns up the points

a bad vaccum advance is NOT going to make the motor not start!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

No start or lights horn weak the battery cable is corroded/or cracked. still have ignition light till key turned is one sign

 

 

we might have lost another 521

 

Ill take it off your hands for 200$

To be clear I’m definitely not interested in selling the truck 

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Must use NGK B6ES. Anything else would be introducing problems.

 

Hold off on the battery till you know it''s the problem. Constant starter use will drain it. The engine has to run long enough to re-charge what was used to start it.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Must use NGK B6ES. Anything else would be introducing problems.

 

Hold off on the battery till you know it''s the problem. Constant starter use will drain it. The engine has to run long enough to re-charge what was used to start it.

That’s what I bought was Ngk just replaced what was there 

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22 minutes ago, Toneloc521 said:

I just got this to go through

image.jpg

 

This is for the 510 with a small amount of 521 info. Engine and drive train is the same as the 510 wagon and there's a 521 wire diagram that I think is a misnamed 620 diagram. Absolutely get a FSM for your year if you can. The Chiltons and Haynes  tend to cover all years and even that, badly while the '71 FSM will be over an inch thick and cover EVEYTHING. This is the Datsun bible 

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