Advice please

[Toneloc521]

this is the condenser at the ignition and it’s hooked on the negative of the ignition coil

Edited December 12, 2020 by Toneloc521

[Toneloc521]

3 minutes ago, Toneloc521 said:

this is the condenser at the ignition and it’s hooked on the neutral of the ignition coil

Then we have this wire running running from this condenser to the negative in the ignition coil as well

[Toneloc521]

I’m replacing my distributor cap and I cannot seem to find if it needs to go on a certain way it seems as long as it lines up it should be fine just the rotor needs to be put in the same exact way as it comes out

[datzenmike]

I think the condenser goes to the + side of the coil, there's already a condenser on the - side but in the distributor. Don't need two.

 

 

Cap and the rotor can only lock into one position. See the little notch near the top? it fits the distributor body and clicks into place. There are also a hold down clip on each side. These won't snap into place unless the cap is properly positioned. The rotor is similar.

 

[Toneloc521]

54 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I think the condenser goes to the + side of the coil, there's already a condenser on the - side but in the distributor. Don't need two.

 

 

Cap and the rotor can only lock into one position. See the little notch near the top? it fits the distributor body and clicks into place. There are also a hold down clip on each side. These won't snap into place unless the cap is properly positioned. The rotor is similar.

 

So I double checked this but i already had it in place match it all up the same way double checked my motors fire order to be sure I got that right I changed my rotor as well but when I changed the ignition coil hooked up the edelbrock I bought it wouldn’t even turn the electrical on I hooked it up the exact same way I’m gonna put the old coil on but I don’t know where I could have gone wrong I made sure to put it all back together the way it was before I replace the parts

[datzenmike]

Whats this mean? No spark or no start?

 

Stick with the original equipment coil, can't go wrong

 

 

Most common mistake is the firing order. It's 1432 in a counter clockwise direction.

[Toneloc521]

44 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Whats this mean? No spark or no start?

 

Stick with the original equipment coil, can't go wrong

 

 

Most common mistake is the firing order. It's 1432 in a counter clockwise direction.

No electrical at all no turn over no nothing I’m gonna put the old coil back on 

[Toneloc521]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Whats this mean? No spark or no start?

 

Stick with the original equipment coil, can't go wrong

 

 

Most common mistake is the firing order. It's 1432 in a counter clockwise direction.

So I looked it up and it said the firing order 1342 maybe that’s my issue but even still I am getting absolutely no power to the ignition  now or the lights or anything I didn’t do anything but take old coil off put new one on and then I put the old one back on and still nothing my oil light comes on but goes back off I did replace the plugs wires cap and rotor but I’m not sure where I went wrong 

[Toneloc521]

Before replacing the could and all these other thing it atleast would spark 

[datzenmike]

Mis keyed it IS 1342 firing order.

 

 

37 minutes ago, Toneloc521 said:

No electrical at all no turn over no nothing I’m gonna put the old coil back on 

 

10 minutes ago, Toneloc521 said:

So I looked it up and it said the firing order 1342 maybe that’s my issue but even still I am getting absolutely no power to the ignition  now or the lights or anything I didn’t do anything but take old coil off put new one on and then I put the old one back on and still nothing my oil light comes on but goes back off I did replace the plugs wires cap and rotor but I’m not sure where I went wrong 

 

"no turn over" means different things to different people. To me it means the engine does not turn. So.... does the starter turn the engine ???

[Toneloc521]

8 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Mis keyed it IS 1342 firing order.

 

 

 

 

"no turn over" means different things to different people. To me it means the engine does not turn. So.... does the starter turn the engine ???

I mean that when I turn my key in the ignition it doesn’t get any juice so I turn the key to the on position my oil light turns on but immediately goes off and the I try to start the car and it does absolutely nothing the radio would usually turn on when I put the key in the on position but that doesn’t even happen could it be that battery is done? And it being unhooked made it drain the juice out of the battery?

[Toneloc521]

21 hours ago, Toneloc521 said:

this is the condenser at the ignition and it’s hooked on the negative of the igniti

[Toneloc521]

Just now, Toneloc521 said:

Is this a condenser?

[datzenmike]

Honk the horn, does it work?

 

Check the battery posts and cables are clean and tight.

 

 

 

 

[mainer311]

The thing with the blue wire coming out of it is a noise suppression condenser like mike said. It’s basically just a filter cap. The important one is on the dizzy.

[datzenmike]

I would disconnect it for now in case it's adding another problem. Get it running first then try connecting it. Also I think it should be on the + terminal.

[Toneloc521]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Honk the horn, does it work?

 

Check the battery posts and cables are clean and tight.

 

 

 

 

So I tried the horn it just makes a clicking noise 

[bilzbobaggins]

 

Whats the condition of your fuse box?

[Toneloc521]

 

1 hour ago, bilzbobaggins said:

 

Whats the condition of your fuse box?

It’s old lol I mean they all look fine just old 

[datzenmike]

He meant are the fuses and the clips holding them clean and in good shape... making good solid electrical connection.

[Toneloc521]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

He meant are the fuses and the clips holding them clean and in good shape... making good solid electrical connection.

Yea they are all in pretty good shape

Edited December 13, 2020 by Toneloc521

[datzenmike]

 

I would get a $4 test lamp. Some fuses are hot at all times like the headlamps, horn, brake lights, interior lamp etc. Others are turned on by the ignition switch, heater, wipers. In all cases a fuse should have power on both sides if it is good and making good contact. Visually checking is no good as electricity is invisible.

[Toneloc521]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 

I would get a $4 test lamp. Some fuses are hot at all times like the headlamps, horn, brake lights, interior lamp etc. Others are turned on by the ignition switch, heater, wipers. In all cases a fuse should have power on both sides if it is good and making good contact. Visually checking is no good as electricity is invisible.

I’ll run down to the store and grab one of these is it crazy to consider rewiring the whole thing it would take a long ass time but I think it can be done 

Edited December 13, 2020 by Toneloc521

[Toneloc521]

Going back to the battery being dead thinking that may be it tho 

[datzenmike]

Clean the terminals.

 

Turn the headlamps on... they work??? Honk the horn, it sound normal???

 

Wiring doesn't 'wear out' but connections can corrode.