Advice please

[Toneloc521]

4 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

if you know the wire wasdnt hooked up find a 12volt wire to hook it up.

It might even haver a cut off selinoid also but this wasn't mention either so Photos or it don't happen

show the carb close up pitcture!!!!!!!!

Also I have a wire my ignition key is shit so I bought a new ignition switch that comes in the morning so I ran a wire from the choke to the ignition coil 

[Toneloc521]

4 hours ago, mainer311 said:

I still think the bowl is running out, or the jets are clogged with crap.

I cleaned the carb with a. Cleaner so I think it may have clogged at that point 

[datzenmike]

Clean the outside? even down the barrels won't affect the inside.

 

Clean the plugs and get it started. Choke should be closed to start and open in about 8-10 min.

[Toneloc521]

23 hours ago, datzenmike said:

See, we all assumed you had a stock carburetor because you didn't say anything about a Weber. Anything else that's not original???

 

 

So electric choke that never shuts off?????

 

Get a switched supply of battery to the electric choke and this will solve most of your problems. Clean the plugs or new NGK B6ES or BP6ES... they are probably balls of carbon by now.

The choke doesn’t have any power to it so it doesn’t choke at all plugs are fine 

[Toneloc521]

4 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Clean the outside? even down the barrels won't affect the inside.

 

Clean the plugs and get it started. Choke should be closed to start and open in about 8-10 min.

I’ll check this out I’m getting my ignition switch now 

[Toneloc521]

Just now, Toneloc521 said:

The choke doesn’t have any power to it so it doesn’t choke at all plugs are fine 

I’m pretty sure just the carb 

[gene knight]

hope you solve the issue. i had an issue with my 521 almost similar i had hitachi carb rebuilt/ gone thru 4 times by same respectful carb shop who has been in business for over 35 years, my  rebuilt L18 engine/carb would sputter/ black exhaust smoke coming from tail pipe would not idle right  after i switched to a  rebuilt weber 32/36 manual choke have not had any of the issues

 

how far are you from salem/ wilsonville/  springfield/ corvallis cities in oregon

Edited December 6, 2020 by gene knight

[datzenmike]

1 hour ago, Toneloc521 said:

The choke doesn’t have any power to it so it doesn’t choke at all plugs are fine 

 

If set properly the choke comes on automatically when cold. The electric part is a heater that warms the choke coil inside at a predictable speed 8-10 min, and turns and keeps it off. Once engine is turned off, the choke cools over night and closes, ready for the nest start.

 

If not powered the choke will stay on or part on but not fully off.

[banzai510(hainz)]

choke is ON all the time if NO POWER.

 turn the key on it will heat the coil then the choke opens up the carb by then motor will be farely warm and running.

 

No idle is a plugged idle jet or no power to a idle cut off if equipped(not all webers have this). a lot of people turn the sped screw in to by pass  the idkle jet to get it to somewhat idle.

 

then next is timming

 

 

521 need the fuel filter swapped out more often as the tanks get dirty from the fuel line in the wheel well

[Toneloc521]

6 hours ago, gene knight said:

hope you solve the issue. i had an issue with my 521 almost similar i had hitachi carb rebuilt/ gone thru 4 times by same respectful carb shop who has been in business for over 35 years, my  rebuilt L18 engine/carb would sputter/ black exhaust smoke coming from tail pipe would not idle right  after i switched to a  rebuilt weber 32/36 manual choke have not had any of the issues

 

how far are you from salem/ wilsonville/  springfield/ corvallis cities in oregon

In salem

[Toneloc521]

1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

choke is ON all the time if NO POWER.

 turn the key on it will heat the coil then the choke opens up the carb by then motor will be farely warm and running.

 

No idle is a plugged idle jet or no power to a idle cut off if equipped(not all webers have this). a lot of people turn the sped screw in to by pass  the idkle jet to get it to somewhat idle.

 

then next is timming

 

 

521 need the fuel filter swapped out more often as the tanks get dirty from the fuel line in the wheel well

Yea I have fuel filter I’m gonna change it. It literally has shit in it 

[banzai510(hainz)]

mos times its at the bottom of the filter but if dirt gets thru then the idle jet can get plugged. Take the idle jet out and clean it make sure you can see thru the hole

[mainer311]

Even if the fuel filter is dirty, it's going to make it hard for the pump to keep the bowl full.

 

And if you aren't sure how Weber DGV's work, do yourself a favor and read up on their operation. The idle circuit is hugely important, and controls the entire transition period until the primary venturi takes over. Changing the jet controls not only the adjustment range of the idle, but also that whole transition period. If the jet is clogged, or the bowl is low, it'll starve through that entire range. 

[Toneloc521]

I’m installing my ignition coil and there is a condenser on both the coils and the distributor should I replace both? The rubber boot on both are worn 

[datzenmike]

The one 'on' the distributor is actually in it beside the points???? Definitely replace that one. The one on the coil is probably for noise suppression. Won't hurt to replace it or check with a meter on resistance. There should be no continuity through a condenser.

[Toneloc521]

58 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The one 'on' the distributor is actually in it beside the points???? Definitely replace that one. The one on the coil is probably for noise suppression. Won't hurt to replace it or check with a meter on resistance. There should be no continuity through a condenser.

I mean on the side of the distributor is what looks to be another condenser 

[Charlie69]

Many distributors have the noise suppression condenser on th outside.

[Toneloc521]

6 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

Many distributors have the noise suppression condenser on th outside.

Is there any difference between these condensers?

[DanielC]

The condenser on the coil is for radio noise suppression.  The condensers on or in the distributor are necessary for a points distributor.   As I recall, on the OEM dual points distributor, there was little room inside the distributor, so it had two condensers on the outside of the distributor, 

[datzenmike]

Thank-you. I have an exploded diagram and very hard to see where they go..

 

 

I assume this has dual points???....

 

22102-00801 condenser appears to be on the side opposite from the vacuum advance.

22102-A5500 is beside the advance.

[Toneloc521]

1 hour ago, DanielC said:

The condenser on the coil is for radio noise suppression.  The condensers on or in the distributor are necessary for a points distributor.   As I recall, on the OEM dual points distributor, there was little room inside the distributor, so it had two condensers on the outside of the distributor, 

Okay 👌🏻 I see how there wouldn’t be room in the distributor. I have a condenser on the side on the distributor and another right next to the ignition coil could that be the second one your talking about? Cause those are the only two I’ve found when closely looking at it. One is thin then the other(the one on the attached at the ignition coil) should i replace these both? The boot on the thinner one is really beat up. 

[Toneloc521]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Thank-you. I have an exploded diagram and very hard to see where they go..

 

 

I assume this has dual points???....

 

22102-00801 condenser appears to be on the side opposite from the vacuum advance.

22102-A5500 is beside the advance.

What’s the difference between the two condensers? Can use the same type of condenser or does it matter? 

[datzenmike]

Then the points are closed there is almost a ground potential at the points and the condenser but when they open electricity tends to want to keep flowing and it will arc eroding and wearing the points out. With a condenser, electricity 'see' a path to ground through it and begins to charge it up rather than arcing. Any condenser is better than no condenser. They have different part numbers probably only because of how they are mounted.

[Toneloc521]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Then the points are closed there is almost a ground potential at the points and the condenser but when they open electricity tends to want to keep flowing and it will arc eroding and wearing the points out. With a condenser, electricity 'see' a path to ground through it and begins to charge it up rather than arcing. Any condenser is better than no condenser. They have different part numbers probably only because of how they are mounted.

Cool I really appreciate your advice and knowledge this is all new to me so I’m just trying to have my ducks in a row before I get to deep 

[Toneloc521]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Then the points are closed there is almost a ground potential at the points and the condenser but when they open electricity tends to want to keep flowing and it will arc eroding and wearing the points out. With a condenser, electricity 'see' a path to ground through it and begins to charge it up rather than arcing. Any condenser is better than no condenser. They have different part numbers probably only because of how they are mounted.

Should I replace the vacuum advance?