BigBopper805 Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 So I bringing this back to life. My son is back from college and going ape shit on the wagon. As it is his wagon originally, he never really got a chance to work on it till now. This will be the official build thread, getting after it one jab at a time. 1970 510 Wagon 2 Quote Link to comment
BigBopper805 Posted April 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 (edited) Status Update Sprayed the fire wall to repel rust. Putting in the KA24DE S13 from a 1991 240SX. 1992 Nissan D21 5 Speed Transmission. Mocking up the engine bay to plug up holes, sand, and paint. Front suspension has been upgraded and replaced, here are some specs to that. - 1980 280ZX Front Struts - 10.5'' rotors slotted and drilled - Rebuilt calipers with new pistons, seals, etc. - Ceramic Brake Pads - Stainless Steel braided brake lines - Wildwood Master Cylinder P/N 260-8794 - Wilwood Proportion Valve - Brake booster off of a 1979 620 - Moog Tie Rods - Moog Poly Urethane Sway Bar Link Bushings (Need the modified sway bar for the KA24DE swap) - Moog Lower Control Arm Bushings - Energy Suspension Prothane Rod Strut Bushings - Techno Toy Tuning: Coilovers, Camber Plates, and Bump Steer Spacers ( I wont the whole front end TTT) - Tokico front shock - Timken Front Wheel Bearings and Seals (Valvoline grease used) - Engine Cross Member Cut and Flipped Wheels will change, for mock up purposes only. Let me know what you think or if you have questions. I don't have all the answers but Ratsun does 🙂 Edited April 1, 2021 by BigBopper805 2 Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted April 29, 2020 Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 So cool! 805 = paint code? Area code? Secret code? Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted April 29, 2020 Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 Area code. BigBopper, are the yards closed for now (black road, sheridan, etc)? Quote Link to comment
BigBopper805 Posted April 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 Yards are still up and running! Quote Link to comment
BigBopper805 Posted March 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 Okay so we dropped the engine and transmission in. I am buying parts to get it running and need some advice on a few questions that I have if the Ratsun community can help me out please. 1. 1991 S13 KA24DE motor. Will any A11-B44 G70 ECM work on this engine from any year that came with this OEM Part # ECM? 2. What will need to be removed and left in regards to flashing the ECM? 3. Will ISR Performance 4-2-1 headers fit in my 510 wagon? 4. Any recommendations on a good radiator? Plan on installing electric fans and removing the fan belt due to space, was thinking an aluminum radiator should work if you guys got any good suggestions. UPDATE I am my dad's son who will be putting in the money to get this build finished! Just graduated from college and am excited to finish my high school dream car. Just bought a Ford 9'' rear end and will be four linking the rear suspension. Some pics on removing a spacer to allow the manual transmission pilot bushing to fit inside the block. Motor was originally automatic so this is what you will have to do if converting to 5-speed. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 22, 2021 Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 A11 B44 G70 ECM is for a '91 S13 5 speed Quote Link to comment
yenpit Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 My experience with ANY header for ANY car made, is that the headers are designed to fit the particular engine in a particular chassis............from Datsun to Camaro etc etc. That said, a KA header is designed to fit the S13/S14 chassis. I am not aware of anybody making a header that specifically fits the KA in a 510 chassis. Everybody's KA engine swap mounting bracket kit is different & places the engine in a different position fore & aft. We have a 510 with a KA24DE, where the engine mount brackets placed the engine so far back, that the back of the cylinder head actually rubs on the firewall! WE DID NOT BUILD THIS CAR! It does have some unknown brand header on it, which is mm's from touching the steering box! Maybe someone else here will chime in on a particular brand of header that WILL fit the KA in a 510 chassis. The biggest issue that we have with our LHD 510's, is that the steering box is simply in the way (not a problem on RHD 510's cuz everything is on passenger side!), so many KA headers will NOT fit. I'm not seeing an ISR header for the KA listed on their web page......?? Do you have a link or pics? We can take a look, but if 4-2-1 style, it sounds like a long tube header, which may pose a big issue fitting it to a 510 chassis. Quote Link to comment
BigBopper805 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Datsun Mike The motor originally came off of an automatic (S13 KA24DE). I converted it to a manual 5 speed. It did not come with an ECU. If I purchase an A11 B44 G70 will it work okay with these modifications? Just would need a re-flash correct? Here is the link for the ISR 4-2-1 header. After reading your snippet I agree that the fitment will most likely not work and a 4-1 Megan Racing Shorty Header will most likely be my best option. Yenpit https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/isr-performance-tubular-4-2-1-header-nissan-240sx-ka24de-91-98.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwo-aCBhC-ARIsAAkNQitYJx4NfW2PA6isN_iGb0T8tksLhPqa9bMc_lmzPjXGjC38LpXyIBMaAmmVEALw_wcB https://www.vividracing.com/-p-153517976.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwo-aCBhC-ARIsAAkNQiv-6ZWc3gDxp5y6mHDnNXJo97c9ZKRbac2EUs-YbRbTzsCFNlCf_DQaAksKEALw_wcB Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 Posted on the KA thread on the realm, but saw this here and did some digging for some photos. This is how much I had to bash in the OBX/ISR header to get it to clear the steering box by a few mm - I might have even bashed it in even more... The bigger issue I had was that after the 2-1 connector it seemed to angle up right into the frame rail and floor... If your handy with a welder or have a good exhaust shop you could probably hack it up and make it work. Ultimately I wasn't happy running such a hacked header so I went with the shorty megan racing header. There are some knock offs of the megan header on ebay as well - or their used to be. As for ECUs - I believe either the Auto or Manual will work- I think I remember reading about a bunch of 240 guys running the Auto ECU for a higher rev limit. - but dont quote me on that its been a while since Ive done the research. Quote Link to comment
yenpit Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 20 hours ago, demo243 said: Posted on the KA thread on the realm, but saw this here and did some digging for some photos. This is how much I had to bash in the OBX/ISR header to get it to clear the steering box by a few mm - I might have even bashed it in even more... The bigger issue I had was that after the 2-1 connector it seemed to angle up right into the frame rail and floor... If your handy with a welder or have a good exhaust shop you could probably hack it up and make it work. Ultimately I wasn't happy running such a hacked header so I went with the shorty megan racing header. There are some knock offs of the megan header on ebay as well - or their used to be. As for ECUs - I believe either the Auto or Manual will work- I think I remember reading about a bunch of 240 guys running the Auto ECU for a higher rev limit. - but dont quote me on that its been a while since Ive done the research. Yup, "denting" a header tube for clearance is a VERY common thing to do when fitting a header that is not specifically made for a particular chassis vs engine swap! Any header can be cut, modified & re-welded by somebody that KNOWS what they are doing. Lack of experience can lead to destroying the header completely, or creating a monstrosity that flows no better than the original KA cast iron exhaust manifold. If bigbooper is dead set on running a header (as opposed to running the stock cast iron manifold IF that would even fit......??), my suggestion is to TRY to use the Megan Racing "shorty" header linked above............but again, it is NOT designed for the 510 chassis with our LHD steering box down there! Quote Link to comment
yenpit Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 We ended up with the yellow 510 that sold (to our customer) on BAT last year for pretty big bucks. Among the MANY other issues with that very expensive 510, it had a KA swap with a long tube header (unknown brand), which obviously did not fit the swap. One of the tubes was crushed/dented in at least 50% of the tube diameter, iirc at the steering box, ultimately in our view, destroying the whole point of having a header............FLOW of the exhaust gases out smoothly & efficiently!! 😣 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 The A11 B44 G70 is fine I guess. Only difference I can see is maybe transmission switches between auto and standard for emissions? Used to be that auto ECUs were in demand because no rev limiter. I don't know. This is for my 710. L16 cast header and 240sx down pipe. Modified the two pipe coupling so it fit the L16 manifold. As the 240sx also uses a 71C which is a descendant of the 71B, the twin down pipes miss the steering box and the bell housing perfectly. Perfect fit. The KA manifold must be similar to the L series exhaust manifold for outlet location because it hugs the block yet bends and misses the bell housing and tucks under the floor. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted March 29, 2021 Report Share Posted March 29, 2021 You are running a Ford 9 Inch behind a KA24? That is a HUGE axle and is massively overkill for what you are building. You will have a huge parasitic loss to drive that axle and no additional benefit as you don't need the strength. There are better option axles out there for your weight and power levels. Why the ford 9 inch? Quote Link to comment
BigBopper805 Posted April 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 Yeah that sure is a lot of bashing, I think you would of had a decent career in the MLB! Thank you demo243 sharing those photos, my intent with the 4-2-1 header was to let her breath easily but it appears the Megan 4-1 to a 71C twin down pipes might just be the move. I can go rip one out of a junk yard. datzenmike do you know what year those twin down pipes came off of for the 240sx (manual or automatic?)Sounds like I need to have a discussion with the muffler shop. I have good welding experience but would rather just have it done right the first time. Might give it a try to fit it myself, gotta borrow a TIG welder. After doing the research I found that the A11 B44 G70 ECU is for a S13 Manual and A11-B45 G71 for Automatic. So it is safe to confirm that the A11 B44 G70 will work. I plan on buying on ebay this weekend then. ...Any one know what it takes to re-flash the ECU? I removed all the emission crap on the motor. Lockleaf yes I am installing the 9''! Bill Thompson in Glendale is going to cut the housing for me along with some custom axles. I want to fit wide wheels in the rear along with the LSD. The suspension is going to be 4 linked too. Taking of those leaf springs in the rear. 9'' was cheap and parts are cheap. It cost $1000 ro rebuild an 8.8 versus $200 to rebuild a 9''. Appreciate all you guys! Quote Link to comment
Tedman Posted May 14, 2021 Report Share Posted May 14, 2021 I would talk to Ben at Jim Wolf Technology about your ECU. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/ 1 Quote Link to comment
BigBopper805 Posted September 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 Thanks Tedman, Ben was super helpful. Any ECU that came off of a 91-94 200SX will work on the KA24DE Engine. The speed sensor on the transmission is what will cause a lower rev. His company programs and maps the entire ECU for $599.00. Here is a link for a ECU identifier for anything Nissan. It has Year, make, model and the ECU part #. This can help when purchasing a ECU from Ebay or your local junkyard. http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/ECU-ID.PDF Quote Link to comment
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