Bent valve?

[Scrapson]

I didn’t rip it hard it idled around 1st 2nd and 3rd didn’t go above 2500 rpm just kept it mellow just to make sure it wanted to move and not collapse. 

[datzenmike]

9 hours ago, Scrapson said:

So don’t dump the clutch just let it slowly choke itself out. I figured as much. My baby is back my girlfriend is gonna be pissed when I spend a day cleaning it. Alright that sounds a lot better. It never did diesel before any of this happened besides when I first bought it. I gotta adjust the idle thing though I don’t like how it goes from 600rpm to 1500

 

Not exactly. Load the engine down with the clutch, then turn ignition off and it will stall. Hold the brake so the truck doesn't creep or jump ahead.

[Scrapson]

Oh so like starting in the wrong gear. Alright that makes more sense. What’s the size for the brake booster vacuum line I got the wrong size line. 

[datzenmike]

With practice you can do this so smoothly no one will even be able to tell what you are doing.

 

You'll have to measure the booster hose size. Be sure it's a thick wall suitable for extreme vacuum that might crush a heater hose. I'm guessing most N American car and truck brake booster hoses are all the same size. If not try something from a later Nissan. Try a wrecking yard. Take note that there is a one way valve in line on that booster hose.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Im not getting this?

I thought you have a idle cut off selinoid on this weber carb.

Weber carbs are common run on issues on cheap gas and head design

Now if you have a idle cutoff try using Super for gas and it should work better,If that don't work I push the pedal down right when I shut off the key. This creates a Near 0 vacuum to suck gas in the idle circuit.

 

Now you have to get this timed and idle correct. like 900 or so whith choke fully open and timming 10-15 degs

[Scrapson]

I put super in it but I did put regular in on accident since the meth head worker at chevron didn’t put super in it till I changed it after it put 2 gallons in so it’s using that shit up. I’ll get the weber adjusted a little better tonight I’m gonna have someone braise my lower housing back together hopefully 

[datzenmike]

 Gas won't matter. Cheaper to use regular and use the clutch stall.

 

Aluminum needs to be TIG welded. You can't just heat it up and 'solder' it together by brazing.

[Scrapson]

I personally think it just runs better on non ethanol premium. So if I had someone tig weld it back together it’d be okay?

[datzenmike]

Haven't seen what's broken.

[Scrapson]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZtZbWkGA_QS3VcXxLqRrhBBVu87vVETj/view?usp=drivesdk

[datzenmike]

It broke because you used a too long bolt that bottomed out.

 

Myself I'd get a replacement coming..... then I'd glue it together with JB weld and put the top cover and bolts in to hold it till set. It would get you going while waiting for the 'new' one to arrive. Definitely needs replacing.

[wayno]

That thermostat housing is made out of crappy aluminum(equivalent of pot metal), go to that wrecking yard you said had a 74 and 76 and see if you can get it apart without breaking it, if you can get it apart buy it, either one, if the early type without a by-pass and you were able to get it apart(before buying it) buy a new thermostat, drill near the edge with at least one eighth inch hole, plug the hose with a bolt or something that will not leak and you will be good to go till you find the proper thermostat housing.

I already told you that one is not worth saving, you can do what Mike just suggested and try gluing it back together with JB weld, but I would not tighten that top cover on much more than finger tight, maybe use a stud and glue the stud in too, maybe try to hold it together with a hose clamp around the top, and then I would use a radiator cap with the bottom rubber piece removed so it don't hold any pressure, but I would go try to get a good one first, if you keep running/driving it without coolant your going to screw it up.

Edited December 14, 2019 by wayno

[Scrapson]

Alright I’ll glue it back together and we’ll be good to go for now when I get the thing ordered up and it’ll be good. I didn’t plan on driving it anymore or starting it till I get coolant in it. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 12/13/2019 at 7:09 AM, Scrapson said:

Oh so like starting in the wrong gear. Alright that makes more sense. What’s the size for the brake booster vacuum line I got the wrong size line. 

You can buy proper booster line hose at your local auto parts store. I buy it in 100 ft rolls online from places like Summit Racing.

 

You can use EFI fuel line (high pressure), but it is usually so stiff that it gets really hard to push onto the nipples.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 12/13/2019 at 8:02 AM, banzai510(hainz) said:

 

I thought you have a idle cut off selinoid on this weber carb.

 

I wonder if he has it hooked up to direct battery power (non-switched). That could also be the reason the battery died.

 

[Scrapson]

It’s hooked up to only be on with the ignition being turned on. I think the stereo pulls power because it has to tell keep time somehow but I don’t think it pulls much. 

[datzenmike]

The stereo draw is almost nothing, don't worry about it. 

[Scrapson]

I know it has a draw somewhere because when I hookup the battery it sparks a little bit I think it’s somewhere in the rear chassis harness. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Now your saying there’s a battery drain?

I can’t keep up with all the issues

[Scrapson]

It’s not a problem I just mentioned it. I got some JB weld for the thermostat housing for temporary usage just gonna put some on and call it a day. 

[datzenmike]

De-grease with brake cleaner so the JB with stick. You won't need much as nothing is missing and you are only filling a small crack. Use a shorter bolt and snug it down like the other two. The top part is what will hold it in place till set, you don't want it loose. When set, sand down any irregularities between the top and the housing where the gasket seals. A small amount squeezed out anywhere else doesn't matter. Takes 24 hours @ 60F much longer if cold. Maybe take off the head and take indoors?

 

This will work, might even be permanent, but is not a substitute for a new one. This is only considered a temporary fix or mend and not a repair. A repair, is to make something as good as new.

[Scrapson]

Alright well the housing is prepped and I noticed something was off there’s a metal line that connects between the lower rad hose heater core and block I’ll post a picture of it since it’s all put on but where the hell does that line go. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S2Gj_UQcHxD5xsW4PHyIUM5NdlpSNFdZ/view?usp=drivesdk Everything is hooked up besides the end of that thing I don’t know where it goes

[datzenmike]

Yes there should be a small length of hose (where the gear clamp is) to a metal tube that runs up the front of the engine to a  Y junction with one to the thermostat by pass fitting and the other to the coolant line on the intake.

 

 

[Scrapson]

Okay I was wondering what the hell that solid line went to and I plugged the hole in the intake. Do I just put a piece of hose on it? I’ll get some new hose since it needs to be replaced and send a picture of it just to make sure I don’t mess anything up. 

[datzenmike]

 The three hole thermostat housing has a by pass fitting on it, you can see it in your picture. It should join the hose from the intake and down to the lower rad hose fitting.