Bent valve?

[Scrapson]

I’ll send a picture of what I mean it’s not the cap it’s the thing that spins the rotor. 

[wayno]

He is talking about the shaft in the distributor housing being loose/bushings wore out and the contact he mentioned is the magnetic points that trigger it to fire are touching.

[Scrapson]

Yeah that sounds like what I’m talking about with better description lmao. 

[datzenmike]

 

Loosen the 3 screws on the outer ring and adjust so all 4 and evenly spaced.

[bilzbobaggins]

Oh, i was picturing the rotor button and the cap.  I couldnt imagine anything else.

[banzai510(hainz)]

See if bushing loose.

but I’d not then just take the coil wire place near ground and see if it sparks consistently.

personally I like to see a photo of the distributor cap and wire to see where they are going 

[Scrapson]

Yeah the thing with the 3 screws okay I’ll adjust it. I’ll post the photos I have of the plug wires and cap

[datzenmike]

Never hesitate to post pictures. Often it's something over looked or not obvious to the sender. A second set of eyes sees things....

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

11 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

personally I like to see a photo of the distributor cap and wire to see where they are going 

It's one of those things, you can look at it five hundred times and it will look right, but then you look once more and you see it - you've got the wires going to the wrong cylinders.

[Scrapson]

Well it ran I have the picture I gotta upload it but it just doesn’t idle it revvs up and stay up around 2500 RPM that’s what it sounds like but there is no pinging I really don’t know what else to do at this point. I’ll get the pictures up in a second. I adjusted the idle screw it didn’t really help. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Runs smooth now?All cylinders firing?

 

no idle means idle jet plugged or your mixture off.

vacuum leak

 

just sell it 

[Scrapson]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Alpd9qAoGrzD5ue_dKlqS_X-SJiVmfme/view?usp=drivesdk 
Distributor Cap

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Alpd9qAoGrzD5ue_dKlqS_X-SJiVmfme/view?usp=drivesdk

Top view

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e6OB0g9QuCOgpdbRmeaNP0FjaaYFHwMN/view?usp=drivesdk

inside distributor 

[Scrapson]

It’s just idling high I didn’t think to adjust the air fuel ratio I’ll go check that now. I already checked for vacuum leak with some starting fluid around the intake and any other place for vacuum that I could think of. It’s a new carb like has maybe 500 miles on it. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Back off the speed screw cl the timing again and set to say 10deg. Redarsinf will lower the speed also unless you put the dist off a tooth

 

if manual choke have it open 
make sure the linkage is not binding 

 

in your photo the upper rad hose could be shorten a inch the get that kink out and 

[Scrapson]

I know the rad hose is jank I’m planning on getting new ones made soon just haven’t had the time since this shit show started. It’s an automatic choke unfortunately but it’s a DGEV with the electric secondaries I believe is what that has. It blew black smoke out the carb so I’m assuming it needs to be leaned out a considerable amount. 

[datzenmike]

The choke plates should be vertical and fully open when warmed up. If choke is on, the fast idle will be engaged.

 

Electric secondaries ???? No such thing. The 32/36 is progressive. When the primary gets about 50-60% open the secondary begins opening. It's mechanical... if you floor it both will open.

[Scrapson]

I’m not a genius sorry but there’s a second spot for an electric hookup like the electric coil for the choke. It’s just a post that pops out right next to it. 

Edited December 6, 2019 by Scrapson

[banzai510(hainz)]

Dude WTF!!

I’m looking at the carb and you have idle jet selinoid .The red wire is going to the choke but you need to jumper that spot to the selinoid tab you see that is empty.Now maybe Mike or somebody else knows if the 78 model

Has a dedicated wire for the selinoid as a stock carb has these also.A Weber 32/36DGEV-IC I think.It comes like that.

Going with the photo like like it hasn’t been used as it’s not shiny.

[Scrapson]

So what your telling me is to get power to the idle solonoid? I thought of that but I didn’t think it wasn’t important well shit I feel a little extra retarded. I’ll go hook that up and fire it up tomorrow after work. 

[datzenmike]

Blue wire is for automatic electric choke. Red wire is for idle cut solenoid.

 

Not having the idle cut wired won't cause a fast idle it will prevent an idle. Idle cut must have power to it in order to idle at low speeds.

 

 

That picture shows the choke closed. Is it closed when warmed up?????

[Scrapson]

No it’s open when warmed up. There’s no blue wire the red wire was ran when I bought it and the guy said the choke doesn’t work well here I am and it worked he just didn’t have it hooked up. The red wire is always hot when the key is on 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Now if we knew this earlier you didn't havr to pull the head off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Scrapson]

Yeah probably but it’s done now. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

You can just jumper the choke wire to the selinoid to make this work. Cut that connector off and put 2wire in that same type of lug them loop the new wire to the selinoid.or use a piggy back jumper where you can just plug the existing wire an make a new section and plug in.sold in auto stores. 
 

the speed screw must be turned in a lot to bypass the idle circuit.so when the idle circuit starts to work you need to back it off.most times it’s not more than 1.5 turns if that. So with mixture.timmimg and speed adjustment should be adjusted in at this time once warmed up.

Edited December 7, 2019 by banzai510(hainz)

[Scrapson]

Alright well I gotta buy a new battery charger since the Costco one we’ve had for years finally died last night. Alright I’ll hook that up today and give it a go.