Bent valve?

[datzenmike]

What did I say 11 hours ago???

 

11 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

You only need to close off the exhaust manifold end so no noise or exhaust leak into engine compartment. The intake end doesn't matter as I expect you wouldn't be using it. Just unscrew or cut off and leave it. 

 

Try to connect a hose from the block vent tube to the PCV valve. That will get it working. The block vent tube is larger than the PCV end so slide a smaller hose from the PCV into a larger hose from the block vent tube. 

 

 

[Scrapson]

Alright so block everything else but the PCV valve crap got it. I broke my thermostat housing today so yippee. Broke a nice chunk off so to the junkyard I go. 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C3Z6dJ_LJ5j2zdnJK_f4r_2eQua4apJr/view?usp=drivesdk

[wayno]

I would suggest you quit pulling stuff apart, what was the reason for taking the thermostat cover off?

 

I don't see any Datsuns in the wrecking yards around here that would have an L20b in this area, there is a Z car in the Sherwood yard, but I have no clue if that thermostat housing will work on an L20b, I have a few extra L16 housings, but they do not have the by-pass fitting in them like you have.

[Scrapson]

 I was putting a new gasket in since the one I got was the wrong one. There are 2 datsuns in the stayton yard one is a 76 and the other a 74 aswell as an 82 but it has a Z motor in it. I was wondering if a L16 or L18 housing would work since I got a buddy with a spare L20B block sitting around because it blew the rings out from what he said. Yeah at this point im over pulling anything else off for the next month or so when it runs and I decide to take it somewhere for a tranny and clutch. Is there any way for be to get the thermostat housing fixed with like braising or something like that?

[wayno]

As far as I know the L16/18 thermostat housings don't have the by-pass, but the 76 you mentioned may have what you need if it is an L20b.

 

What I was getting at is don't fix what is not broke, you likely have done a lot of work that didn't need done already because of pulling stuff apart, I normally do not touch that thermostat housing or the cover unless there is an issue of over heating or running hot, stuff that has been on the engine for a long time don't like to come apart sometimes, everything to do with the thermostat is one of them.

 

 

[Scrapson]

Apparently so I’m gonna either go find one or order one from Australia 

[wayno]

You can use an L16/18 thermostat housing if you drill an eighth inch hole in the thermostat and plug the hole on the line going to the bypass, I would likely drill 2 eighth inch holes if I went that route as I have had to replace a head gasket because I didn't drill the hole, it only lasted a month before I lost the head gasket, and it happens because of wild temp changes because the hot coolant in the head could not get to the thermostat to open it till it was stinking hot.

[Scrapson]

That makes a some sense so I’m just gonna take it to someone and say fix it and leave $50 on the counter leave and come back a week later. I’ll see what I can do because it literally only chipped off that corner and I feel like if I were to tighten it since that’s where the threads are tighten it enough and put some sort of sealer around the cracks it might work but that’s a big might

[wayno]

No, that is not worth saving, you need another one, just go to that yard with the 76 and see if that one has what you need, otherwise buy it anyway and drill the thermostat itself.

Also before you accidentally mess up, when you put the thermostat housing back on the side of the head the bolt that goes into the head where the timing chain guide is has to barely stick out of the thermostat housing, if it sticks out too far it will bend the chain guide and you will have to pull the front cover off the engine again to replace it or un-bend it.

Edited December 12, 2019 by wayno

[Scrapson]

That’s good to know so I should put a washer between the bolt and the housing?

[wayno]

You need to use the proper bolt that is the right length, I cannot remember how far it sticks out as I don't hardly ever remove that thermostat housing or the thermostat cover for that matter, I have a W53 head I removed from an engine in the wrecking yard likely 8/9 years ago that still has the thermostat housing on it, I just don't mess with or remove stuff unless I have to as stuff breaks and it is getting to be a pain to replace it.

Like I said, if you cannot find what you need just buy an L16/18 housing and drill the thermostat, you see the new replacement thermostats already had holes in them, but as the years have went by they don't sell them with holes anymore so we have to drill them ourselves if we don't have housings with the by-pass hose like the one you broke.

I can likely sell you an L16 housing without the by-pass for $20.00 shipped.

Here is an L16 one I have with the bolts in it, the bolt that is not sticking out very far(the long bolt), this is how far it is supposed to stick out when not mounted.

 

 

Edited December 12, 2019 by wayno

[banzai510(hainz)]

WTF why are you breaking stuff that don't need to be broke.

Just sell it already.

 

datnissparts.com has L16 lower stat housing and zcardepot.com does also I believe.

 

I never take the temp sender out also just so you don't fucking do this DONT they all braek and have a new temp sendor and 16mm hex nut ready to go.

Im think why don't you pull the rear end out also while your at it.

 

this is a common Datsun trait that why not many left esp 510s

Edited December 12, 2019 by banzai510(hainz)

[Scrapson]

Again I was changing the thermostat housing gasket since they gave me the wrong one. The little triangle one, I’m looking for one with the bypass but datnissparts didn’t have it at least for my motor and I’m not trying to drill and tap holes. 

[datzenmike]

The three hole is for the '79 and up L4 and L6. If you have a different earlier year head it's two bolt.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Three things :

 

- You don't need PCV at all. It does help the oil stay cleaner, and it pulls a slight vacuum through the crankcase which helps the seals not leak oil, but other than that, it is essentially a controlled vacuum leak and does nothing for performance. If you don't want to run it, don't bother with it. Focus on things that will help you get the truck running and worry about extras like the PCV later.

 

- Any thermostat housing will work. Obviously you need matching upper and lower housings, but you do not need the bypass or any of the other gadgets associated with the late model housings. You do need a temp sender, and that's it. Sure, you should try to get the right one for your truck, but again, it's not life threatening.

 

- The t-stat housing bolt Wayno mentioned - if it's too long, it will hit the timing chain guide and push it into the chain, causing premature wear and a loud noise in the engine. The best way to make sure it is the proper length is to remove the valve cover and look down inside to see if it's hitting. Be sure to put RTV or other sealer on the threads too, or it will leak oil.

[Scrapson]

I hooked up the PCV either way it was like 5 minutes and some cleaning to make it a little better looking and capping off open lines. So mike I could get a thermostat housing off a L24 or a 82-85 or whatever before it was just Nissan?

[yenpit]

Send me a couple good pics of the thermo housing THAT YOU NEED............I'm pretty sure I will have a good clean USED one.

 

If you have a 3 bolt thermo LID (earlier are 2 bolt), then it should be only one choice................but a couple good pics would be great.  Post here or PM me!

 

TJ

Denver CO

[Scrapson]

I do have 3 bolt thermostat  because its a later model. Ill PM ya some pictures

[Scrapson]

On 12/10/2019 at 8:27 PM, datzenmike said:

Weld what! The EGR??? If you weld the hole closed you won't need a block off plate!!!!

 

It's aluminum.... you'll need to have it TIG welded. What about the PCV valve???

 

I filled mine with JB weld years ago....

 

This...

 

to this...

 

 

This is the same '79 intake manifold but looks like the earlier L16 and I kept the PCV

I blocked everything that comes off the EGR block thing there except the PCV is there anything that needs to be hooked up since you have the fittings still exposed like they should be hooked up I wasn’t sure but the scrapson is on the charger and I have everything vacuum blocked timing set but not water in the block because the housing broke. Fuel system is good carb is good intake is nice a tight the only thint I’m not sure about is the other vacuum hook ups on the EGR hookup. I’ll post a picture in a second but it is all hooked up and mint besides a cooling system. 

[datzenmike]

The PCV is designed into the engine and carburetor design and is not a vacuum leak nor does it have any affect on performance. If there is a small amount of air at idle the idle mix accounts for it. There is no down side to running a PCV valve other than maintaining the hoses and possibly replacing it. Even if the hose falls off there is no change in engine running. It's operation is benign but probably doubles the life of your engine.

 

 

If you get a 3 bolt housing you will need a 3 bolt cover to match. I have a 3 bolt on my '76 just because I had to cut the old one off. 

 

[Scrapson]

Okay so I didn’t have to plug anything that came off the EGR hookup either way I did. Yeah that’s the same one I have I have a 3 bolt upper housing. 

[Scrapson]

So it runs and drives idles a little high which I kind expected like it started out low and they revved up to about 1500 rpms but I drove it around the block pissed off the entire neighborhood but it’s okay. I drove it and it felt so good. So I gotta adjust the carb since it just dieseled like a mother f****r like at least 30 seconds before I just jammed it in gear and dumped the clutch. I gotta get the lower thermostat housing hopefully soon so I can get back to dailying a datsun. I really appreciate everyone’s help and putting up with my retardedness over ancient technology. Any tips or trick on adjusting the carb since the revvs I assume is from the electric idle thing and just decreasing air fuel mixture since it shut off then did the classic ting ting ting noise like a clapped out Cadillac in the movies. 

[datzenmike]

Dude.... When shutting off, hold the brake on, place in 4th gear, let the clutch so the engine begins to struggle, turn the ignition off, wait for engine to stop, let the clutch pedal all the way up.... done. Do this 4 or 5 times and you'll do it automatically every time you turn it off. Never let it diesel it's not good for timing chain.

[Scrapson]

So don’t dump the clutch just let it slowly choke itself out. I figured as much. My baby is back my girlfriend is gonna be pissed when I spend a day cleaning it. Alright that sounds a lot better. It never did diesel before any of this happened besides when I first bought it. I gotta adjust the idle thing though I don’t like how it goes from 600rpm to 1500

[wayno]

Driving it without coolant is not good, I normally don't run an engine for over a minute maybe 2 minutes if it is idling.

 

There are two or three screws on the valve cover side of the Weber carb, one is the fuel mixture screw, and one above it for the idle adjustment, there may be a third for the fast idle, the one for idle is kind of a pain to adjust as the head is pointed at the valve cover.

Edited December 13, 2019 by wayno