Dirtroad/Hardware store Runner

[Easygoingjc]

Hauled in a couple 620s that had been sitting in a field since 2002.

The idea is to build 1 out of 2.

[datzenmike]

Excellent idea!

[Easygoingjc]

Well I think the engines in both trucks are seized. Dropped the oil out of the 75 and there was no water in it. Pulled the plugs and put atf in the cylinders. Removed the v- belt. Cannot turn them over with plugs out. Mind you I am only using a 12" crescent wrench because I don't have a big enough metric socket. 

 

Is there something I am missing? Was hoping one would at least turn over. 

[datzenmike]

Use the starter. 

[]2eDeYe]

I would get a socket the correct size to start, you are probably going to need it again anyways. 

But, they should turn over easy enough. 

 

Are they in gear? 

[datzenmike]

The starter is several HP of torque and it's gear reduced on the starter ring. I've bumped lots of engines with a starter to free them up from sitting..

[Easygoingjc]

4 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said:

I would get a socket the correct size to start, you are probably going to need it again anyways. 

But, they should turn over easy enough. 

 

Are they in gear? 

I will be a getting proper socket. Does anyone know the size from heart?Definitely bigger than 22mm. Will have to bring some calipers from work.

 

Maybe let it sit a day or two with the atf in the cylinders and work around the rings. 

[Easygoingjc]

I have to boost it with the service van. Not sure if the battery I had laying around is any good. 

[datzenmike]

27mm

 

What ever it takes to use the starter..

[]2eDeYe]

1-1/16 is close to the same size.

[Easygoingjc]

My standard sockets that big are 12point. That will strip the head if off size even a little. Im just going to get the proper socket. 

[Easygoingjc]

Well boosting was a no go. Solenoid just clicks and no rotation attempt. Maybe starter is screwed so I wil swap it out with the other truck  before it gets dark tonight. If that doesn't work I'll pull the rad and try with a breaker bar and proper socket. 

[datzenmike]

If severely stuck, the starter will just click. There's a lot of torque using a starter. Sometimes it takes dozens of clicks to move the crank. I've had one move just barely each click but eventually it broke loose. The rings were rusted to the cylinder walls form sitting wet from a blown head gasket. It was toast.

[Easygoingjc]

What plugs should I run in this l20b for todays fuel.

[Easygoingjc]

Well it turns over and tried to fire. Hooked a line from a Jerrycan to the fuel pump. Drained the float bowl. There is a huge leak coming from the accelerator pump shaft. 

 

How readily available are parts for these hitachi carbs? 

[Figbuck]

For me the first thing to fail is that neoprene bellows sealing the pump shaft. 

 

I got a Hygrade brand rebuild kit # 1513A, from Napa Auto I think. It was two years ago, $55.00. It seems like you can get the kits from Amazon for $25 and shipping.  The problem was that I didn't understand to order the kit with the float. There is another part number for the kit with a float and then a separate part number for just the float parts. I thought I would build it last summer... but I ran a spare carb until that neoprene bootie thing rots and tears. I never got a new float. Have heard stories about sinking floats but have never had mine fail.

 

I rebuilt my OEM carb with one of these kits and ran it for 50K mi before I put an identical carb that had been removed nearly new, replaced by a Weber. It took all day and was tedious but i had good instructions from Colin Messer's book, "How to Keep Your Nissan/Datsun Alive"... and the instructions in the kit has good blow up diagrams.

 

Never got around to rebuilding one of them or even taking the accelerator pump out of the kit and changing it out by itself. I got a Weber 32-36 a few weeks ago.  I'm still working on getting it set up right. Don't like the air cleaner and breather vent, need to tweak that. Runs great, starts, idles and more power too. Haven't checked gas milage yet but it seems ok as long as I don't floor it.

 

It seems like it might be worth getting a rebuild kit just for the new accelerator pump?

 

 

Here is a link to carb stuff I just listed;

 

https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/d/portland-datsun-carbs-air-cleaner/6973499465.html

 

Edited September 8, 2019 by Figbuck

[Easygoingjc]

Today is the first day it hasn't been raining here so I could tinker on the ling box again. I decided before I went crazy with carb parts I would do a compression test. All cyclinders are low, 50-75psi. Damn it! 

 

Prolly going to pull the head to have a better look.

[Easygoingjc]

Well I picked up a spare L16 and a 5speed tranny before winter. Just got around to tearing it down to see what I have to work with. Everything is standard, bores look good and no ring ridge. Ordered new rings and bearings to put into it seeing as it is already apart. 

 

Here is a question for you experienced Datsun guys, what head should I get rebuilt to throw onto it? I have a 210 casting head off of this engine and a A87 cast head I tore out of the 73 truck. The A87 is open chamber and  it seems it would drop the compression ratio compared to the 210.  

 

Being both off of L16s, what's the deal?

[datzenmike]

The A87 is an L18 head but also used only on the first year L20B ('74) 610. If it was on an L16 then someone changed it and probably wondered why it ran so poorly. An open chamber head on an L16 will drop the compression to 7.7 so avoid doing that. The 210 number head is the best bet.

[Easygoingjc]

Thanks Mike. The other 75 l20b has a A87 on it also. Haven't opened it up to see if it is open or closed. I figured it was looking to be not a good Idea on the L16.

[Crashtd420]

You could check this dish in the L16 pistons.... dont quote me but I believe they are supposed to be -14cc.... 

Maybe you'll get lucky and someone swapped some better pistons in to raise the compression back up when they used the a87 head.... 

[Crashtd420]

7 minutes ago, Easygoingjc said:

Thanks Mike. The other 75 l20b has a A87 on it also. Haven't opened it up to see if it is open or closed. I figured it was looking to be not a good Idea on the L16.

Wait, you have an L20 b and some L16s? If so Why are you going to use the L16 and not the L20b? 

[Easygoingjc]

The l20b is in need of rebuild and bore.

The l16 is standard and has little wear all around. Just going to deglaze it and throw new rings into it. Once the truck is running and back on the road after 20yrs I can play with other stuff.

 

54 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

You could check this dish in the L16 pistons.... dont quote me but I believe they are supposed to be -14cc.... 

Maybe you'll get lucky and someone swapped some better pistons in to raise the compression back up when they used the a87 head.... 

The other l16 is seized and I connet see the piston tops due to rust. May try and break loose just for curiosity but I will prolly damage something.

[Crashtd420]

Got it... 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

1 hour ago, Easygoingjc said:

 

The other l16 is seized and I connet see the piston tops due to rust. May try and break loose just for curiosity but I will prolly damage something.

Any time a piston is frozen in the bore, it is very likely that the rings have rusted to the cylinder wall. Even if they are able to break free, what's left behind is a porous section in the cylinder wall. You can sometimes power hone this rust out, but not usually within the bore size spec.