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About Easygoingjc

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  • Location
    Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan, Canada
  • Cars
    1984 Nissan 720
  • Interests
    Building things from what I have.

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  1. Snowed all weekend here. Just a mucky mess really. It sucked because I was trenching gas and electrical to my garage. Worth it in the end.
  2. The needle adjustment shouldn't affect WOT over 4k. Just the makes the transition into the primary circuit sooner, the higher the needle setting. Once that WOT mix is dead on then the needle should be adjusted for a smooth transition and cruising mix. May seem backwards but jet size affects transition richness aswell. Throw a bigger jet in there and see how she runs. I would also like to suggest air temp may be causing the leaner numbers. Cold air is denser and now needs more fuel than hot summer temps.
  3. I would agree with you mike. For the most part the difference is solved with a carb tune. The real problem we found was guys starting their engine and not letting it warm up. Then going for a blast and squeeking a piston. Thread related I would make sure the float is not stuck on the carb for that cylinder. Pull the plug on the bowl and see if fuel flows.
  4. Can't figure out why. even the photos are. The bulletin no. NGKSP-0506-3
  5. We used to put a colder heat range plug in sleds and motorcycles when ethanol blended fuel came into effect. It burns hotter causing increased cylinder temps. I remeber seeing this from our ngk rep.
  6. I forgot to mention 10 years ago fuel was alot different. Or least it is here with a mix of ethanol possibly up to 10% without labeling. In my experience we would run colder plugs on and older engine, sometimes by two temp ranges.
  7. Motorcycle carbs use a calibrated fuel volume vs orfice diameter used in cars carbs If it was recommended to use a #180 jet for L18 it may have ment to use a jet that flows 180cc of fuel per minute. By drilling it 1.8mm to may be why you are running fat at WOT. Being 10 years ago they were prolly just plug chopping. With your fuel/air gauge you have a huge advatage now. Nothing like a good test and tune. Good luck
  8. Nice work, slow isn't bad. It means you are not rushing. My grandpa always said if you take the time to do it right the first time you don't have to take time to do it again.
  9. What is the second set of plugs for? 80's Emissions? Has anyone used the distributor of the z engine on L engines for HEI. Matchbox distributors seem rare around here.
  10. New to Datsun and their quirks, not new to engines or rebuilds, that is why I was asking. Didn't want to waste time or money on a engine lemon. I am sticking with the l20 now that everyone has confirmed them to be reliable. Once running again will tell if rebuild is in order. Thanks for the other engine info as well. I do have two trucks, so maybe in time the second one can become a true ratsun.
  11. The bead rolls look great. Nice touch!
  12. I was curious if you could make kind of a mutt from a combo of parts? Just curious though. Doesn't seem to be the engine for reliability. Rather a fun engine for the other truck. I am not opposed to any rebuilds, nor ignorant when it comes to any mechanical work. Just was wanted to know what engine you experienced datsun/nissan guys would build for reliability, also a nice n/a option to play with for another truck once I have a reliable one.
  13. Thanks for all the replies. Picked up another compression tester and now compression is sitting around 150psi across the board. Rebuilding the carb at the moment. Had it fire but the accelerator pump had a massive leak. Once running I will see if it burns oil and how it runs.
  14. I had just bought 2 620 field finds. The 75 is a long bed. This truck is complete and will be used as a truck for dump runs, hardware store hauls etc. Basicly a weekend truck. Just want it to run and start reliable not going to drive it hard. Once the 75 is running I can play and tinker with the 73 which is not complete right now. It will be the fun truck hopefully.
  15. I could prolly buy the whole 720 truck for around 800 bucks. Just going through options. I also heard somwhere that the z engines were prone to head gasket failures at the back cylinder, or maybe that was the z24. I was thinking the same thing on my compression tester. May go get a renta tool to double confirm my tests. I was thinking a low compression to be around 100psi. I wonder if the truck not running for a decade could just have stuck rings?
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