530-521 Posted May 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 Also- I popped off the valve cover- and it looks pretty clean- to me. OH! Aaaand- the valve cover bolts were less than finger tight, so that oughtta stop the flow of oil... check it 2 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted May 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 But this is dust right??? 1 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted May 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 My other question- which I thought I posted.... How can I keep the dipstick tube in the block? 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted May 16, 2019 Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 Haven't had to deal with that, but you should replace that plastic oil pressure line yesterday. They get brittle & break, and will leave all your oil on the ground in a hurry. You can get a braided line, or switch to an electric gauge with a sender... 2 1 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted May 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 50 minutes ago, thisismatt said: Haven't had to deal with that, but you should replace that plastic oil pressure line yesterday. They get brittle & break, and will leave all your oil on the ground in a hurry. You can get a braided line, or switch to an electric gauge with a sender... What would be better? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 16, 2019 Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 Slightly crush the bottom part so it's an interference push in fit. Slightly oval than round. Easy does it. When you get a snug fit, and assuming you can remove it, coat with a good quality sealer and push it back in 2 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted May 16, 2019 Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 2 minutes ago, 530-521 said: What would be better? A braided rubber line... https://www.amazon.com/s?k=braided+oil+pressure&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 1 Quote Link to comment
Rat-a-tat-Dat Posted May 16, 2019 Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 It looks like your fuel line at the inlet to the carb is starting to crack, replace hose or just cut back some, depends on how hard the hose is becoming. Also, the terminal connector for the coolant temperature sender isn't attached, unless you removed earlier. 1 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted May 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 3 minutes ago, Rat-a-tat-Dat said: It looks like your fuel line at the inlet to the carb is starting to crack, replace hose or just cut back some, depends on how hard the hose is becoming. Also, the terminal connector for the coolant temperature sender isn't attached, unless you removed earlier. I did remove over the connector- thanks. Got it on the fuel lines. My son called that too. 1 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted May 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 29 minutes ago, thisismatt said: A braided rubber line... https://www.amazon.com/s?k=braided+oil+pressure&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Thank you. Ordered. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rat-a-tat-Dat Posted May 16, 2019 Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 Cams condition is looking quite good. Sorry, failed to visually grasp the dust factor you're referring to in an earlier photo of the cam timing chain area. 1 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted May 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 5 minutes ago, Rat-a-tat-Dat said: Cams condition is looking quite good. Sorry, failed to visually grasp the dust factor you're referring to in an earlier photo of the cam timing chain area. I was referring to the chain guide. Is it smoked? Done? Dust? 1 Quote Link to comment
Rat-a-tat-Dat Posted May 16, 2019 Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 That's your tension side chain guide, some wear, so check for timing chain wear. Look further down inside, visually check the slack side chain guide and even further still, the chain tensioner slipper for wear. If it's grooved from the chain running over it, then everything may need to be replaced. Also examine the teeth on both the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket for wear, the teeth will look pointier. Removal of the timing cover will be necessary to check the crankshaft sprocket but first find out if the timing chain is stretched. 1 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted May 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2019 Ok guys- an update. Ive been tinkering here and there for a week as time allows. I made a new air cleaner housing from scratch, and plumbed the valve cover vent to it. I installed a new valve valve cover gasket, and tightened things as I went. EVERYTHING on this truck is finger tight. I dont get it. Fuel pump, distributor, carb, water pump, alternator, idler arm.... everything finger tight- or less. Oh- also the valve cover vent was blocked off by the hose clamp squeezing down the end of the small filter that was on there, so I’m sure the engine was getting the leaks pressure fed. I also tig welded up a crack crack on the support in the underside of the hood.... all of the “foam” affixing the supports the main deck lid of the hood are separated. Any suggestions on a good fix for that? 2 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted May 28, 2019 Report Share Posted May 28, 2019 It shouldn't be "foam" unless an idiot of a previous owner sprayed some in there (my PO was an idiot for example). It should be, essentially, seam sealer. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 28, 2019 Report Share Posted May 28, 2019 Looks great. Like the aircleaner fix you did. the oil tube you need to expand it then pund it in or maybe clean it real good and JB Weld that sucker in there, They used to sell new tubes. the oil sender you can buy a plastic line from AUTOMETER (USA Made line) but I went back to stock senderon my 510 but my 521 I still have a plastic line. I had one crack also as the heat cycles will get them brittle as mentioned. But those were for sure the Taiwan made lines. Oh just to let you know the oil sender threads are 1/8 BSPT. they are not the commone 1/8 NPT. so if it don't go in quiet right you know tou got the wrong threads. I found a adapter that goes to the BSPT to the NPT, Autometer and others sell that also. Best to find a braded line but I even had one go bad over time. Sure it was 30yrs old but they do go bad. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 28, 2019 Report Share Posted May 28, 2019 Electric gauge is the way to go.... unless a race car. All you need is some indication you have oil pressure. You don't even need numbers really just get used to where it normally runs at hot idle and highway running and if it changes it's worth checking out. The stock low pressure light sender is set for about 8 PSI so Nissan thinks that 8 is good enough of a warning. Hell crank starting will turn mine off. 1 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted June 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 Hey guys. So.... I finally Had a chance to play with the truck today... It was hard to start, and when I got it running, it had massive misfire issue... took the air cleaner cover off and it’s spitting fuel and flame out the carb. I can feather the throttle and get it to rev, but when the rpms come back down it backfires and sputters. What the hell did I do???? 2 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted June 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 1 hour ago, 530-521 said: Hey guys. So.... I finally Had a chance to play with the truck today... It was hard to start, and when I got it running, it had massive misfire issue... took the air cleaner cover off and it’s spitting fuel and flame out the carb. I can feather the throttle and get it to rev, but when the rpms come back down it backfires and sputters. What the hell did I do???? Um ya- I’m an idiot. Plug wires crossed. Urrrrrrr. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 I leave the plug wires on the distributor cap 90% of the time when taking valve cover off and just overlap them to the passenger side leaving the m on the sparkplugs. Bam your done 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Wires always too short. Most common is the 2-3 wires switched. This is the difference between clockwise and the correct counter clockwise turning of the distributor. Easiest way to remember is to get those sticky wrap spark plug numbers for the wires.😄 1 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted June 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Good idea on those labels Mike. So the kid and me went for a 30ish mile test rip, and it looks like I got 95% of the leaks handled... it must still just be dripping residuals when it heated up, so Im gonna do another degreasing round. All in all she runs great now though!! 3 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Hey guys, how’s it going? I’ve enjoyed a few more store/cheeseburger runs, and the kid and I are having a great time. Truck runs great, and leaks are minimal. I think I’m going to do the pan gasket next to alleviate the leak there. Is it as straightforward as it looks? Drop the crossmember, drop the pan, clean it up, new gasket, bam? Also, what filter do you guys like to run? Oil? Anything 10w 40? John Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 I like the Wix 51515 filters. They’re huge. Try to pre-fill it prior to spinning it on. 30wt is fine. 1 Quote Link to comment
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