BrothersGarage Posted May 13, 2019 Report Share Posted May 13, 2019 (edited) 49 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: I just found another 521 ... but I cant take anymore cars in. If you got yard space, you got storage space 😄 Edited May 13, 2019 by BrothersGarage 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 13, 2019 Report Share Posted May 13, 2019 I had a chance to buy another just like mine and told them I wont pay much for it.Most likely it died in someones yard like this yellow one. Most bet its a points or fuse box issue with these things in Washington. Plus a female driver with no mechanical experience, All I saw was grass growing around it with no tarp on top . Most like for years in the weather not used. I will try to swing by and ck it out better but most likely the next cheap Datsun guy will tear it apart then dump it after they loose motivation 3 Quote Link to comment
Rat-a-tat-Dat Posted May 13, 2019 Report Share Posted May 13, 2019 Welcome 510-52, sweet deal and great looking truck. Happy motoring to both you and your son! It's wonderful to see others embrace their Datsun treasures. But it's sad that in my neck of the woods any diamond in the rough would be almost obsolete. 4 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted May 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 Ugh. Check this out- the top of the idler is all up into the alternator... it looks like it has been turning??? Im going to look at that in depth maybe on Wednesday... how should that idler be set up?? edit: Durrr. Yes the idler turns you dipshit. 2 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 Get a new or shorter belt and it will rotate the alt away from it. The stock alternator is only a 30 amper, so you may want to upgrade in the future anyway. 3 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted May 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 (edited) 11 minutes ago, mainer311 said: Get a new or shorter belt and it will rotate the alt away from it. The stock alternator is only a 30 amper, so you may want to upgrade in the future anyway. Ok cool. I hope there is enough swinging room for it to get out of the way- PO says this is an upgraded alt?? Edited May 14, 2019 by 530-521 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 The upgraded alt requires a shorter belt. It’s possible that the PO reused the same belt and had to move the alt all the way out to get it to tension. Either way, fairly easy fix. 2 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted May 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 1 minute ago, mainer311 said: The upgraded alt requires a shorter belt. It’s possible that the PO reused the same belt and had to move the alt all the way out to get it to tension. Either way, fairly easy fix. Cool- thanks for the help so far. I really appreciate it 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 If it is the stock alternator a shorter belt will fix the issue, if it has a newer internally regulated alternator you will need to find a later model alternator mount from a 720 with a Z22 I believe as that engine/truck has a larger alternator so the mount is different. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 Grease the idler arm then replace the fitting with a plug. Might get an extra 1/4" As wayno says. I used a 720 alternator mount on my 620. It lifts the alternator slightly away from the idler arm and the lower rad hose. Won't work on the L16 as it only uses 2 bolts. I also replaced the lower rad hose inlet with one from a z car. It angles to the rear more and positions the hose better for a larger diameter alternator. 2 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted May 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 (edited) That’s a freakin sweet idea- maybe I can get even more with a custom made plug.... I’ll have to spec what the idler looks like inside there. I thought that maybe the current plug/grease fitting provided preload to the works... the reason why I am concerned about the limited swingability of the alt, is the way it’s constructed around the pivot bolt area... the web is huge. I’ll get a pic later. Edited May 14, 2019 by 530-521 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 See if there are threaded hols on the other side of the block under the distributor for air air pump. If so you could re-locate the alternator to that side. I had a '71 that vibrated loose and snapped the mounting bolts off. A friend moved the alternator over to the left side. Worked just fine. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 (edited) Is this a L18 or L20 motor? get a shorter belt of possible. this is a common proplem when running a 50/60 amp alternator. The stock 35amper on a L16also uses the smaller bolts. So that's why I think its not a L16 otherwise someone had to do some mods if a L16 motor to a 50amp alt was installed. I keep a set of belts Gaqtes or equiv 7345 .7350 7355 and 7360 Edited May 14, 2019 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 I had this issue with the alternator hitting the idler arm, but I was using an internally regulated alternator, it kept hitting the idler arm and busting the front alternator mount bolt, I made my own mounts to lower it for a few years till I figured out the 720 mount worked better(didn't break), the Zcar mounts do not work as the holes are spaced different and a different angle, it also is offset differently but it sure looks like it would work. Here are all the types I have used or made over the years, the 2 upper left ones I made and repaired a few times. 3 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 9 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: So that's why I think its not a L16 otherwise someone had to do some mods if a L16 motor to a 50amp alt was installed. Wrong again. I’m running a 60A Hitachi alt from a 510 with ZERO modifications other than a different belt length. 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 I’m fairly certain I’m running a 15350 belt size, and it works great. It’s a little tough getting it on initially, but once it sits in the pulley, everything falls together nicely. Here’s proof: 4 Quote Link to comment
sondat Posted May 15, 2019 Report Share Posted May 15, 2019 Welcome 530-521. Great survivor. My son and I are just about to hit the 3 year mark on a frame off resto of the same truck. Hopefully on the road soon. I’ll keep watching your progress. 2 Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted May 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2019 What’s up guys- I had A few minutes this afternoon, and I purple powered this pig. It’s looking better... oh and look- what was hiding under the Red Bull can 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted May 15, 2019 Report Share Posted May 15, 2019 You should measure it. It should be around 1ohm to work best with the matchbox dizzy. You can gap the plugs to the standard .04-.044 that way as well. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 15, 2019 Report Share Posted May 15, 2019 Stock EI coils are 0.7 to 1.0 ohms. Lower resistance draws more current making stronger magnetic field making hotter spark. Points cannot handle this amount of current and will burn out in 50 miles and why they are 1.5 ohms with a 1.5 ohm ballast in line to reduce the current. The one pictured is 0.7 ohms so not really any better than the stock ones. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 15, 2019 Report Share Posted May 15, 2019 Mainer L16 with50 amper Alt means the holes in the Alt ears got necked down Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted May 15, 2019 Report Share Posted May 15, 2019 58 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: Mainer L16 with50 amper Alt means the holes in the Alt ears got necked down Yeah, and most of them come with reducers already in them. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 15, 2019 Report Share Posted May 15, 2019 Maybe the 521's are different. My experience was with the 620. The alternator rides just a C hair above the idler arm grease nipple. A tighter belt swings the alternator too close to the block. You have to put the belt on the pulley then bolt the alternator in. Then the belt stretches and you start over. Quote Link to comment
530-521 Posted May 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 What’s up guys- another day another question- how can I keep dipstick tube from pulling out of the block? Quote Link to comment
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