Turbosauce74 Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 Middle of an sr20 swap into a 620 and I would prefer to use the stock alternator instead of the Subaru one. I had a 77 amp alternator before the swap and it could barely keep up to my sound system, so the 50 amp justy alternator will get cooked for sure. Has anyone made a bra ket to keep the stock one or bigger? 1 Quote Link to comment
volkswagner Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 Can you use a FWD alternator setup that puts it on the other side of the block? 2 Quote Link to comment
Turbosauce74 Posted January 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 2 minutes ago, volkswagner said: Can you use a FWD alternator setup that puts it on the other side of the block? Steering box is in the way unfortunately. It could stay on the side it's on if I just mounted it a slight bit higher. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 This is the problem with the 620. The lower rad hose wraps around the alternator and enters the timing cover just above it so you can't go too high. A z car water inlet is swept back slightly more and helps move the hose back and away but intimately the inlet fitting is still in the way. I used a 720 3 bolt block mount. It moves the alternator slightly higher than the L series ones. To mount it I had to put the belt on the pulley first then the two lower bolts into the block mount. Then the tensioner strap, tighten the belt, then the two bottom bolts. I had a 90 amp Chrysler K-car alternator. There's room on the distributor side for an air conditioner compressor so there's got to be room for an alternator. There's also several threaded holes on the side of the block for this or the earlier air pump. I broke the bolts off an old 521 I had back in the 70s and a friend moved the stock alternator to the distributor side. Seemed like there was lots of room and no rad hose in the way. 1 Quote Link to comment
Turbosauce74 Posted January 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 1 minute ago, datzenmike said: This is the problem with the 620. The lower rad hose wraps around the alternator and enters the timing cover just above it so you can't go too high. A z car water inlet is swept back slightly more and helps move the hose back and away but intimately the inlet fitting is still in the way. I used a 720 3 bolt block mount. It moves the alternator slightly higher than the L series ones. To mount it I had to put the belt on the pulley first then the two lower bolts into the block mount. Then the tensioner strap, tighten the belt, then the two bottom bolts. I had a 90 amp Chrysler K-car alternator. There's room on the distributor side for an air conditioner compressor so there's got to be room for an alternator. There's also several threaded holes on the side of the block for this or the earlier air pump. I broke the bolts off an old 521 I had back in the 70s and a friend moved the stock alternator to the distributor side. Seemed like there was lots of room and no rad hose in the way. I think you missed the sr20 part ? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 Yup, just noticed it. ? 1 Quote Link to comment
Turbosauce74 Posted January 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 No problem. I should make a post on the alternator I got in my l20. It's an internally regulated gm 77 amp. That's why I'm hoping to keep this 80 amp one. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 9 hours ago, Turbosauce74 said: Steering box is in the way unfortunately. It could stay on the side it's on if I just mounted it a slight bit higher. It actually mounts the alternator up high, above the ac pump, on the other side. I have a bracket to relocate the stock alternator 1" up, just waiting for Jeff to make a couple prototypes. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
Turbosauce74 Posted January 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 4 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said: It actually mounts the alternator up high, above the ac pump, on the other side. I have a bracket to relocate the stock alternator 1" up, just waiting for Jeff to make a couple prototypes. ? Do you have an info? Maybe a CAD file? I could always 3d print a prototype. 1 Quote Link to comment
spriso Posted January 24, 2019 Report Share Posted January 24, 2019 You can always get a high-output Subaru Justy version (120amps) and use our proven alternator swap kit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Justy-Alternator-120-AMP-89-91-1-2L-HIGH-OUTPUT/254073773643?fits=Model%3AJusty|Make%3ASubaru&epid=76934713&hash=item3b27fa1e4b:g:7P0AAOSw9GhYlDAC:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateBox!97330!US!-1:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true http://spriso.com/our-products/subaru-justy-alternator-install-kit/ Hope that helps, Michael 2 Quote Link to comment
Turbosauce74 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2019 That's a decent option, I couldn't find that before. If this sr20 relocate bracket doesn't work I may have to go that route. Thanks a lot. Plastic prototype bracket is currently printing 2 Quote Link to comment
ol' 320 Posted February 10, 2019 Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 (edited) On 1/23/2019 at 6:49 PM, Turbosauce74 said: That's a decent option, I couldn't find that before. If this sr20 relocate bracket doesn't work I may have to go that route. Thanks a lot. Plastic prototype bracket is currently printing Turbo.... for the good of the order, can you post a pic of your solution? What does the new bracket look like? Did you end up using the 120 amp Justy alt or an SR alt? Spriso: Does your Justy alt mounting kit work with that 120amp hi output Justy alt as well? Steve: If the prototype bracket works will you be making these? Just curious. Edited February 10, 2019 by ol' 320 2 Quote Link to comment
5t341tH Posted February 20, 2019 Report Share Posted February 20, 2019 I believe ]2eDeYe is working on the alternator mount too. I am waiting patiently by for him ? 2 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 21, 2019 Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 Ok lets discuss pros/cons I think keeping the stock hardware is a good idea, but more room can be made with shorter bolts. The turnbuckle needs somewhere to attach the fixed end. Using a timing cover bolt gives more/better adjustment. Incorporating it into the mount will increase the size of the part, material and shipping could go up. Here is the current design using shorter bolts. The part of the mount you can see at the bottom is an extra hole, that portion of the mount will not be there and the alternator will be able to rotate out from the block quite a bit. Thanks to Turbosauce74 for working on the prototypes for this. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 21, 2019 Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 On 2/10/2019 at 2:33 PM, ol' 320 said: Turbo.... for the good of the order, can you post a pic of your solution? What does the new bracket look like? Did you end up using the 120 amp Justy alt or an SR alt? Spriso: Does your Justy alt mounting kit work with that 120amp hi output Justy alt as well? Steve: If the prototype bracket works will you be making these? Just curious. I am going to make these yes. Still not sure on the final design, I want to nail it down per the pros/cons above. 1 Quote Link to comment
spriso Posted February 21, 2019 Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 (edited) On 2/10/2019 at 2:33 PM, ol' 320 said: Spriso: Does your Justy alt mounting kit work with that 120amp hi output Justy alt as well? Yes, our Subaru Justy alternator kit works with the 120amp alternator (same case, higher output internals). Also now comes with a billet pulley (no more spacer and modified pulley): Our bracket/pulley kit fits nice and tight to the block, and is a proven design with 18+ years of being on the market. Michael Edited February 21, 2019 by spriso 4 Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted February 21, 2019 Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 2 hours ago, spriso said: Yes, our Subaru Justy alternator kit works with the 120amp alternator (same case, higher output internals). Our bracket/pulley kit fits nice and tight to the block, and is a proven design with 18+ years of being on the market. Michael Black oxide bolts!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
spriso Posted February 21, 2019 Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 1 hour ago, Icehouse said: Black oxide bolts!!!! Just the bracket to block-- I'm sure you can replace with stainless versions if you so desire. The alternator to bracket and bracket adjuster hardware is all grade 8, 5/16" SAE hardware. Michael 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 16, 2019 Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 He loves black oxide bolts, probably has some in his pocket right now. lol Got this in work. 3 Quote Link to comment
Turbosauce74 Posted April 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 8 minutes ago, ]2eDeYe said: He loves black oxide bolts, probably has some in his pocket right now. lol Got this in work. Been away from home for a while, I'll get you a prototype printed up this weekend if you would like. 2 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 16, 2019 Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 Building the next set out of steel :) 2 1 Quote Link to comment
5t341tH Posted April 20, 2019 Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 when is the official release?!? 1 Quote Link to comment
Turbosauce74 Posted April 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 On 4/16/2019 at 3:58 PM, ]2eDeYe said: Building the next set out of steel 🙂 Ready to order when you are! 2 Quote Link to comment
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