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volkswagner

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Everything posted by volkswagner

  1. 6 weeks until race day! Not as much to do as last year but still a good size list. Only a few things would keep us from racing so we're feeling comfortable. As long as the clunk stays away... Last year we dropped the SR in and it fired up so we rolled with it. We decided to take a look at the basic tune up parts we ignored before. Plugs, don't look too terrible but we decided to swap out to some new coppers for better robustness. The plug pockets being filled up with oil led us to yank the VC cover and find a worn center seal. Changed the fuel filter. How about the cap an rotor? Whoops! We might have been leaving a few HP on the table last year. Got a little further with the rear brakes. A bit of test fitting showed where the deign needed tweaks. Now to cut some aluminum. The B&M short shifter we installed last year was proving to be more hassle than it was worth. It just never felt right and was causing mis-shifts which doesn't help our gearbox longevity any. Time to put the stock part back in. Once it was out, the poor shifting made a bit more sense. (Those are supposed to be straight.) This jogged Jeff's memory, he had gotten the part from a guy who had to "hold" his bad gearbox in 5th. I must have missed the damage when installing it in our rush last year. Two birds with one stone, we were also leaking transmission fluid last year from what we thought was the output shaft seal. Turns out it was a failed seal on the shifter. A little honda bond to sort that out. You'll recall we had issues with our hood flapping as we went down the track last year. The old race hood had it's support structure removed, coupled with the corroded state of it and our missing front valence sending 120mph winds directly into the bay meant the hood had cycled itself to failure. Luckily Jeff had a color matched hood on hand. with good support structure. He was even able to find some hinges to make opening the hood a one man job instead of the 2 man lift needed for the 4 pin hood we had. Much better!
  2. New facebook page for build updates and live track side updates. Give us a like and follow if you're in to that sort of thing. https://www.facebook.com/JAYBO-Racing-1993296944299821/
  3. First order of business, whats the Clunk! The prime suspect was the differential since the noise was speed dependent and very loud. Out it came. Once on the bench it was obvious... that this was not going to be as easy to figure out as we had hoped. No matter how hard he looked, Jeff just couldn't see anything wrong with the diff. He called in a keener set of eyes. Still, there was no signs of damage. No witness marks on the teeth, no metal in the oil, no disruptions felt when rotating the gears. As far as we could tell. The diff was tip top. On to lesser suspects. We started spinning everything from the transmission back feeling for play or resistance. Nothing substantial. We got to the rear wheel bearings and the passengers side assembly had distinctly more friction the the drivers. "Hey did we ever change the rear wheel bearings during the rebuild?" "No" Lets remember where this car came from, 🤔 😬 A little help with the cutting wheel to separate the races. Sure looks like something spent some time getting to know each ball a little to intimately. Is this our culprit, or is this just a bad bearing that was a whole separate problem? We honestly aren't sure ourselves. Only way to know is reassemble and test drive. It's a little easier to believe when you consider that the rear crossmemeber is hard mounted and there is no interior what so ever to stop the direct transmission of noise from hub to cockpit. Well, since the rear end is disassembled. No better time than now to sort out that failing rear brake situation.
  4. Looks like you got everything Carter. On to the 2019 season! Swamp thing was stored at Jeff's all year. We parked it after the last race and didn't touch it except for an occasional startup by Jeff to keep it lubricated. With 8 weeks until race day, We finally decided it was time to start getting the car prepped for the season. After all, we still don't know what that clunk was! Luckily Swamp thing started up, seemingly no worse for wear than when parked.
  5. Most of my time has been taken up by the GTI-R recently. However, that's starting to be a bit more reliable so I'm hoping to be on the goon a bit more. On the other hand, the enduro season is fast approaching and Swamp thing needs some help. We'll see. Finally! This was one of those annoying little details that's been nagging me for months. I've been looking for an upper radiator hose since I dropped the motor in. Everyone I tried wouldn't work just barely. I was just about ready to make it a two piece run when I found this one. Gates 21922. A little trim to fit. Picture makes it look closer to the head than it really is. Perfect fit, FWD SR water neck to stock location 510 radiator outlet. Dropped in the wide band. The old E-brake pass through was conveniently located and I should be able to snake the EGT wire through there as well. Speaking of wires. That's where I'm at. Starting to rough in the mega squirt harness. Some things end up in free space without the intake manifold but it sure gives better access.
  6. This is awesome! Lots of fun to watch, keep it up. On the sinusoidal steering, make sure your u-joints are clocked correctly as well.
  7. Good idea guys, I'll give that a shot! I'd like to go digital gauges in the long run in which case a GPS speedo would make the cable redundant, hopefully the wrap will make the cable last until then.
  8. Quite possible. I want to built a quick and dirty injector test setup. Use a spare fuel rail and pump it up then just turn them on 100% for a certain time and measure volumes. I could then at least make sure they are all balanced even if the accuracy isn't the greatest. This would also give me an idea of the pump capacity if I put a gauge on and look for pressure drop. We'll see if I get that far. Either way. AFR gauge should be a decent indicator of the pump doing it's job and I can swap quite easily if needed, one benefit to a inline vs in tank.
  9. Ahhh I see, I think SR's came with both the heat type and ECU controlled type, will have to research.
  10. It seems like a small thing but, it's been so long since the grille/lights were in place that it makes it feel so much closer. On to the intake manifold. Began by sectioning the 3" diamter 30 degree bent tube down the middle. cut off wheeled the flat patterns. Borrowed a few flanges from the stock VE manifold. Mock up with the base plate looked good so I kept moving forward with some tacks. Couldn't resist dropping it in the bay to take a look. ? More mock up. All prepped and ready to machine the base plate and weld it up. More work on the hot side. Chopped the 3 bolt flange off the RB down pipe, want a V-band. Test fit shows the waste gate bypass was too close for comfort to where the U-joint will live. I had the 2.5" down pipe with 1" bypass. The then needed to merge into a 3" pipe, make the bend under the car, contain a V-band and then get a flex pipe. I decided to put the V-band in the bend, this gave me a degree of adjustment for placing the flex pipe by rotating it in the clamp. Added another bung to the downturn for a potential EGT to go with the AFR. Satisfied with the results in general. Still learning with the welder of course. I got a TON of splatter which I'm not used to, also it stuck to the material rather than the splatter I'm used to that can be knocked off. Maybe this is due to it being SS? Any thoughts? Fitment ended up nice and tight to the tranny and mostly straight into the tranny mount indent. It seems like my speedo cable has to sit on my exhaust. Is this going to just melt right off or is the cable made for the heat?
  11. Sounds like a fun project. I have a scanner at work I've been meaning to learn to use and some CAD skills...
  12. 1912 wow! and I though our 50 year old cars were a challenge! Even cast rockers... Is there rules preventing the use of modern materials? Seems like that would be a worthy place to get some real steel. I'm just as anxious haha. Getting close now.
  13. The idle drops from 1200 down to 950 once it's warmed up. Does that prove it's switching out of warm up mode you think?
  14. Oh yeah, almost forgot, snow day! The Direzzas did not like the snow :lol: VID: https://youtu.be/eqyIlElW0YE
  15. Now that it is a driver, I've been spending more time inside the car instead of under it. Time to clean up the interior! I started by removing as much of the sticker, double sided tape, wire clips, etc from the dash. This meant getting all the way into the gauge cluster to get the yellow carbon look stickers off of there. With the dash apart I was able to undo all of the electrical routing strung through the dash. I moved everything to the passengers side so it could be sorted all at once. The previous owner even cut and extended every heater control wire with red wire and bullet connectors so that it could be stored in the glovebox while all the add on bits were screwed to the dash. Much better. This left me with this impressive pile in the passengers area. Everything on the seat was deemed useless and removed. Only kept the boost controller, digital water temp, and power meter were kept (won't ever use it elsewhere.) This was my favorite wire :roll: Lots of cutting, crimping, heat shrinking and it finally all got put back into it's proper place. Tried on a steering wheel that I had around, liked it better. Back to mechanicals, I removed the MAF and cleaned it up. Ran smoother but MPG didn't change. Ran the ECU diagnosis, came back a clean 55. Plugs suggest a definite rich condition. Thinking it's a bad O2 sensor.
  16. Can you use a FWD alternator setup that puts it on the other side of the block?
  17. To get the interior a bit more tolerable, the stock drivers seat went in and the roll cage came out. Jeff did some buffer work which made an amazing difference! Left in progress, right untouched. End result ? All that was left was to turn the coils down a few inches and correct the alignment. Then off to test drive. All went well, so in to the daily drive routine! About a 100 miles in now. A few sneaking issues. Odometer is broke, not surprising. Clutch slave leaks and needs replacement. Only 13mpg, meaning something is causing a rich condition... have to investigate.
  18. Moving on. The fuel pump needed a proper replacement. This of course involved yanking out the in tank fuel pump which inevitably gets you covered in fuel, in this case 15 year old sludge ? Stock unit was crusty and had a cracked pick up. I replaced it with a Walbro 255, new pick up and cleaned all the sludge out of the tank that I could reach. Somehow all I took was this one terrible pic. Oh well, we all know what old nasty gas and a walbro look like, use your imagination. Along with replacing a few dry rotted fuel lines, that was the fuel issue sorted, for now. I'm nervous about all the other lines that may be close to failing due to the same dry rot. While I was busy sorting the mechanical bits, Jeff took it upon himself to start giving the aesthetics some love. After hours of sticker scraping, he moved on to some mudding. ☺️ I turned focus to the suspension. The setup was assembled incorrectly and very corroded. Disassembled to clean and inspect. Measurements suggest 675lb front springs and 500lb rear! Quite stiff to say the least. I then gave the brakes some attention. Not many pic.s but here are the fronts, better off than the rears! the rear pad material actually separated from the metal backing before separating from the rotor! As the front calipers looked on disassembly. Not too bad, cleaned them up and replaced the seals. Rear calipers got replaced entirely. Can't slow Jeff down! Some single stage for now. Bam! Lets remember what that used to look like.
  19. Not as much as it seems, I'm just bad at posting progress in a timely manner ?
  20. I assume you mean the tie rod pivots being in front of the ball joint. A trick we learned, dont eliminate rear steer as an option. If thhey sold a RHD version of a rear steer car you can buy that ravk and flip it to use in a LHD front steer system.
  21. Nice to be able to change something out of choice and not necessity once in a while ?
  22. And some inspiration pictures! Ahhhhh the 90's
  23. Yep! and now you called it. No take backsies.
  24. Next up was working this thing in to a runner. Some basic tune-up stuff like fluids and plugs but also some other more crucial stuff like solving the low oil pressure, fixing the fuel pump properly, tires and rebuilding the brakes. Even though this thing is twenty years newer than my Datsuns, it's easy to forget that it is still nearly 30 years old itself! 27 to be exact. It's actually closer in age to our Datsuns than it is to the Nissans of today. First off, The lifters in this thing sounded terrible, like an L motor that hasn't been adjusted in 3000 miles ? but, jokes aside quite concerning. Unlike the S chassis SR20's, This motor is a solid lifter head, exactly the same as the VE heads. You can see my wagon build thread to see how much fun re shimming one of these heads is. Other differences include ITB's , 440cc injectors, and supposedly stronger connecting rods. Driven with a T28 like the S14. Basically the lifters are similar to the L motors but without the adjustment screw and so the lash pads have to be ground to the appropriate size to create the desired gap. The leading theory was that one of these lash pads, or an entire rocker arm had flown off. I would have to yank the valve cover to investigate, of course this meant dismounting the IC and a bunch of other bracketry to get there. I decided to start wit something simpler as I was running out of time for the day. I drained the oil, black and thin, seems that 15 years or so of degradation took it's toll. This was actually motivating as it seemed thin oil would explain the low oil pressure. Next, I decided to flush the system a bit by dumping some spare oil straight through and into the drain pan. Basically, just try and get as much of the old degraded oil out as possible. I had a few qaurts of 20w-50 mollasses laying around which seemed perfect to drag its way through. Poured it in new and gold, sure enough it drained out pitch black. Decided it would be good to fill it up and run it a with some other temporary oil once buttoned back up, then redrain again. At this point Jeff pointed out that my pan was crushed up a bit, maybe a forklift from shipping container delivery or some really aggressive driving. It looked slight to me but Jeff insisted it doesn't take much to close off the oil pickup that sits just above the bottom, this would also explain the low oil press. Seemed worth the time so I pulled it off. Sure enough, another great call by Jeff. There was a clear indentation in the pan from the pick up opening! Wowza. Spent some time hammering the pan back to convex. But wait, whats that in the bottom of the pan.. Yep, lash pads! Next work day, time to dig in. Yuck, hope that bolt grommet held up. Survey says? No missing rockers, or lash pads! ? Must have thrown a rocker at one point and then replaced it without finding the leftover bits, sheesh. Its possible the 20W-50 was thick enough to drag them out of some hidden crevasses. on to clearance measuring, not easy to accomplish in and of itself. Top number = valve number middle = cam lode clearance bottom = each valve clearance Not ideal as they should each be around 12 thou but, not so bad that they should make so much noise. Decided to keep it as is and see if the clatter was just due to old oil and low pressure. I took time bolting it back together and looked for any cracked vac lines, found a blown breather leaking oil residue and an easily cracked fuel line when replacing the fuel filter. Actually mounted the BOV and Boost solenoid that were just zip tied to stuff. Replaced the plugs, I got some nice NGK replacements and assumed I'd be pulling out some who knows brand or old NGK's... Nope! Thats 3 HKS plugs and 1 Nismo jobber. I didn't even know Nismo made plugs, apparently they are so rare dude could only find one though ? Even the HKS plugs are liek $80 a set. I'd have almost felt bad if they were matching and weren't so roached. Bolted up the IC, replaced the battery and fired it up. Much better! Oil pressure making nearly 60 psi compared to the 30 before and actually rises with rpm. Lifter noise still present but to a much lesser degree. I have no solid lifter SR to compare to so it may even be close to normal. Good enough that I'm no longer concerned by it. Let it come up to temp. to try and clean out more of the old oil. Gave it some rev's all seemed good, idles well. Responds well. Time to put the final oil in. Another surprise! Who knew MOMO made filters? Pulled the wheels to get new rubber, looks like the cars last day in its last life was an eventful one! Thats was most of the basic maintenace taken care of. On to more involved bits. haha forgot to point out this gem in the last overview post, I've never seen one. A "Power" meter, uses signals from the ECU to determine how much air/fuel is being burned and compute a live HP read out. Obviously not uber precise but it even has a function to correct it to a dyno value. Neat, if nothing else!
  25. With the car in Jeff's shop it was time to go over it with a bit more vigilance and look for any surprises good or bad, that it may have in store. Up on stands for inspection/work. Lots of tuner bits in the bay Crusty coilovers Dude was a shit driver turns out Those won't be flapping much mud! Stainless turbo back... Well, turbo back until the sweet tail pipe yo! Worlds shittiest dash installments junk in the trunk Sticker galore A little switch on the dash, translated to up=KSROM down=normal Since it runs to the ECU and KSROM is a popular ECU tuner, the assumption is it is probably a retune! We'll find out. This was the newest date found on the car, couldn't have been driven much longer before being parked. Tires were from 2001 Cage, race seat and a pile of old harnesses Yikes! More vampires than a Twilight premier in here. Shows how long it was in the sun, I legitimately though it was gold window covering until I lifted the wiper. All in all I would say it was a neutral experience, every unfortunate b it found was balanced by a positive bit. No worse for wear so far. Complete list of extras discovered (for better or worse): Momo steering wheel Bride seat No name Japanese made wheels Greddy Profec boost controller Apexi blow off valve Buddy Club coil overs Cusco strut tower brace Cusco (i think) bolt in cage KS ROM ecu Nismo shift knob HKS billet oil cap Stainless exhaust Splitfire plug wires Blitz air filter SARD attack meter Yashio Factory Okachan water temp meter Apexi power meter ARC intercooler Stainless brake lines
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