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volkswagner

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Everything posted by volkswagner

  1. On our way down to the race, these two were so excited they were like their daughters on their iphones. Textin', instagramin', postin', snapin', swipin;, and who knows what else they do these days. We went through tech with no issue and were approved to get out on the track. We set up our pit and got ready to enjoy the weekend. We are well aware we are quite underpowered on the straights. Ecspecially at Pacific Raceways which is a very fast track. Aerodynamics was a suspect culprit so Carter was generous enough to provide an air damn to bolt up. Certainly looks the part! We took the oppurtunity to stall up next to the other Datsun in the running. Little did we know it would be a long weekend for them, replacing their L motor... again. It seems every race we partake with them they are swapping their engine just before or even during race day. Bummer. Pretty car though, and quite quick when it's cylinders actually go bang. After qualifying, the green flag dropped and we were off. Round and round. In for our driver change and re-fueling. Something that we are actually getting quite better at. Although it is obvious now that our fuel jugs are slowing us down considerably. Back out for more laps. Day one seemed to be progressing trouble free. On top of that, there were quite a few cars that were fun to play with. We are right on par with the soued up VW's and race prepped Miatas. Handle and acceleration would keep us up with the plethora of BMW's but they would use their power to walk away on the straights. Sitting and watching between stints ends up being a very enjoyable part of the day. The recently exited driver gets to sit with the next up and give pointers and take advice. Hows the car holding up? What are you doing on turn ##? Did you get a chance to play with car##? Did you notice this? etc etc. Fortunately for us but maybe unfortunately for you all, we ended up with a very touble free and enjoyable weekend. This means little exciting to report but lots of fun was had. We really need to get our in car footage set up so we can share some more of what it's like for us. The 50 complete the full weekend, kept all gears in their rightful place and every rod inside the block! We were actually suprised that a few caster/camber tweaks resulted in MUCH better tire wear. As well our upgraded brakes from the beggining of the season were seaming to work great and last quite well. BUT maybe not quite two weekend of racing well. We all noticed a drastic drop off in braking power during our last stints in the car. Jeff being dead last reported having to put all of his might into them. A post race inspection made it clear why! We'll add Jaybo trademarked carbon steel brake pads to our inventory next to our aluminized gear oil. Jeff has a sweet helmet with a forced air pump through a filter. It was interesting to see a clean filter versus a filter with one weekend of racing. While we didn't break much over the weekend, we certainly left with a good list of wants and needs. We'll be getting back to work and hopefully hitting some more events this summer.
  2. Wiring all mocked up. Marked and trimmed to length. Then in to the house for more comfortable stripping/crimping/soldering/pinning/etc. Many hours later, everything is where it should be. The chassis harness is all taped up. This ended up being nearly as much work as the engine harness since it was a bit hacked up. I'm gong to wait until the engines running before taping the engine harness though. A brief intermission from electrical to mount the throttle pedal. Donated from an Altima. It's the same pedal that will fit directly on to the stock 510 triangular mount, which is what I intended. Except, this didn't put the pedal in the ideal spot, and I liked the feel of the stiffer return spring better. As well, the steel mounting bracket just "feels" better, I've never heard of the plastic triangle breaking but oh well. Back to wiring. I needed a place for all of the electronic boards. Wanted them all in one spot, easily accessible but not visible. Lots of room to run wires but not spread out. Ended up with this arrangement. Case in back will house the megasquirt. Each main board is connected with velcro for easy removal. A couple of spacers hold the hinge in place meaning the whole panel can be removed with 2 screws. Not too bad on the engine bay aesthetics. The two white blocks on the front are magnets. When hinged up they land on the steel dash bar and connect with a satisfying clunk. Feels sturdy enough but it's possible a large pothole may knock it loose. We'll see. Installed a main power breaker. Gauges need attention soon. Grabbed an EGT unit to increase my chances of tuning success. It has a signal output so I hope to at least datalog with the megasquirt. Has anyone ever used aerospace gauges? They have some sweet options! This one is about perfect to sit in the stock tacho location in the cluster! Do want! List is shrinking, slowly but surely.
  3. It's a good question. With a few answers. There are 2 main things I use this for when its running, daily driving and autocross. That means a lot of parking in lots with sticky tires. As well, the steering rack I put in brings my ratio down to 2 turns lock-to-lock, much less and there fore much harder to turn than stock. Further more, if I can fit the kit to my 510 it will be easy to see whether we want it in our endurance 510. After 1 hour of tossing that thing around the track with brute force, I will freely admit my arms are spent. And if we ever want to be competitive we will have to do the max driving stint of 2 hours!. Why this electric power steering when the JBC kit makes hydraulic power as easy as bolting in a hydraulic rack and mounting a pump that I have to the motor? What are the two big negatives of PS? numb driving feel and parasitic power loss. The electric setup is tuneable from 0 output to full motor output. That means if it's too numb, just dial it back, I've never seen a hydraulic setup do that! Also, its electric so the parasitc loss is just in the alternator which has a power reserve (battery) to draw from so the actual engine doesn't need to provide all of the energy on demand like a hydraulic pump and instead charges up slowly over time. As far as the 90's, I don't think they even had electric PS then. Have you driven a 510 with PS? I just drove JEff's, it's wicked!
  4. I didn't get very far with the wiring before I decided I needed to get an alternator situated before deciding how to route my wires. Two options, on the right side where the FWD alt typically lives execpet the stock setup won't work due to the turbo inlet. or on the left side where the RWD alt sits. Although the stock setup again won't work since the stock FWD oil boss is in the way... I headed to the junk yard to hunt , I was looking for a Nissan Quest alternator which is a popular upgrade on the SR's it sits on the left. Then I found this seemingly brand new unit out of a 2001 Sentra. It comes in at a similar 120A and has the added benefit of a clutched pulley. As well it is set up to swing from the right side of the block instead of the left. For weight distribution I was originally going to go for the left side but then I realized that there are a lot of hoses and filters and such on that side that it would be great to have better access to since the intake manifold will inhibit most work from above. So the right side would actually be much better for that reason. It even matched the stock RWD bracket but of course there was no where to bolt that on the right side. Another treasure from the yard, a Saturn Vue electric power steering column! Been wanting to get my hands on one of these for quite a while. Couldn't help but do a comparison, this is all parts of electric and stock 510 laid out real position. Looks quite doable with a few welds πŸ™‚ Fitting the motor under the dash will require some creativity though... Spent some time mocking up a bracket to mount the new alt. Bolts to the stock AC compressor mounting holes. Did require a bit of block clearance to let the belt leave the crank at a different clocking Picked up an existing threaded hole on the block for tensioning. It's all of a sudden looking very crowded on this side of the block, still have to put the steering column back in over here too. A bit more work on the intake side. Learned myself how to program the CNC on our mill at work to get a flange cut for the runners A bit of lead in radius Matched up to the runners. One more mock up before boxing it up to send to my brother for full welding.
  5. 6 weeks until race day! Not as much to do as last year but still a good size list. Only a few things would keep us from racing so we're feeling comfortable. As long as the clunk stays away... Last year we dropped the SR in and it fired up so we rolled with it. We decided to take a look at the basic tune up parts we ignored before. Plugs, don't look too terrible but we decided to swap out to some new coppers for better robustness. The plug pockets being filled up with oil led us to yank the VC cover and find a worn center seal. Changed the fuel filter. How about the cap an rotor? Whoops! We might have been leaving a few HP on the table last year. Got a little further with the rear brakes. A bit of test fitting showed where the deign needed tweaks. Now to cut some aluminum. The B&M short shifter we installed last year was proving to be more hassle than it was worth. It just never felt right and was causing mis-shifts which doesn't help our gearbox longevity any. Time to put the stock part back in. Once it was out, the poor shifting made a bit more sense. (Those are supposed to be straight.) This jogged Jeff's memory, he had gotten the part from a guy who had to "hold" his bad gearbox in 5th. I must have missed the damage when installing it in our rush last year. Two birds with one stone, we were also leaking transmission fluid last year from what we thought was the output shaft seal. Turns out it was a failed seal on the shifter. A little honda bond to sort that out. You'll recall we had issues with our hood flapping as we went down the track last year. The old race hood had it's support structure removed, coupled with the corroded state of it and our missing front valence sending 120mph winds directly into the bay meant the hood had cycled itself to failure. Luckily Jeff had a color matched hood on hand. with good support structure. He was even able to find some hinges to make opening the hood a one man job instead of the 2 man lift needed for the 4 pin hood we had. Much better!
  6. New facebook page for build updates and live track side updates. Give us a like and follow if you're in to that sort of thing. https://www.facebook.com/JAYBO-Racing-1993296944299821/
  7. First order of business, whats the Clunk! The prime suspect was the differential since the noise was speed dependent and very loud. Out it came. Once on the bench it was obvious... that this was not going to be as easy to figure out as we had hoped. No matter how hard he looked, Jeff just couldn't see anything wrong with the diff. He called in a keener set of eyes. Still, there was no signs of damage. No witness marks on the teeth, no metal in the oil, no disruptions felt when rotating the gears. As far as we could tell. The diff was tip top. On to lesser suspects. We started spinning everything from the transmission back feeling for play or resistance. Nothing substantial. We got to the rear wheel bearings and the passengers side assembly had distinctly more friction the the drivers. "Hey did we ever change the rear wheel bearings during the rebuild?" "No" Lets remember where this car came from, πŸ€” 😬 A little help with the cutting wheel to separate the races. Sure looks like something spent some time getting to know each ball a little to intimately. Is this our culprit, or is this just a bad bearing that was a whole separate problem? We honestly aren't sure ourselves. Only way to know is reassemble and test drive. It's a little easier to believe when you consider that the rear crossmemeber is hard mounted and there is no interior what so ever to stop the direct transmission of noise from hub to cockpit. Well, since the rear end is disassembled. No better time than now to sort out that failing rear brake situation.
  8. Looks like you got everything Carter. On to the 2019 season! Swamp thing was stored at Jeff's all year. We parked it after the last race and didn't touch it except for an occasional startup by Jeff to keep it lubricated. With 8 weeks until race day, We finally decided it was time to start getting the car prepped for the season. After all, we still don't know what that clunk was! Luckily Swamp thing started up, seemingly no worse for wear than when parked.
  9. Most of my time has been taken up by the GTI-R recently. However, that's starting to be a bit more reliable so I'm hoping to be on the goon a bit more. On the other hand, the enduro season is fast approaching and Swamp thing needs some help. We'll see. Finally! This was one of those annoying little details that's been nagging me for months. I've been looking for an upper radiator hose since I dropped the motor in. Everyone I tried wouldn't work just barely. I was just about ready to make it a two piece run when I found this one. Gates 21922. A little trim to fit. Picture makes it look closer to the head than it really is. Perfect fit, FWD SR water neck to stock location 510 radiator outlet. Dropped in the wide band. The old E-brake pass through was conveniently located and I should be able to snake the EGT wire through there as well. Speaking of wires. That's where I'm at. Starting to rough in the mega squirt harness. Some things end up in free space without the intake manifold but it sure gives better access.
  10. This is awesome! Lots of fun to watch, keep it up. On the sinusoidal steering, make sure your u-joints are clocked correctly as well.
  11. Good idea guys, I'll give that a shot! I'd like to go digital gauges in the long run in which case a GPS speedo would make the cable redundant, hopefully the wrap will make the cable last until then.
  12. Quite possible. I want to built a quick and dirty injector test setup. Use a spare fuel rail and pump it up then just turn them on 100% for a certain time and measure volumes. I could then at least make sure they are all balanced even if the accuracy isn't the greatest. This would also give me an idea of the pump capacity if I put a gauge on and look for pressure drop. We'll see if I get that far. Either way. AFR gauge should be a decent indicator of the pump doing it's job and I can swap quite easily if needed, one benefit to a inline vs in tank.
  13. Ahhh I see, I think SR's came with both the heat type and ECU controlled type, will have to research.
  14. It seems like a small thing but, it's been so long since the grille/lights were in place that it makes it feel so much closer. On to the intake manifold. Began by sectioning the 3" diamter 30 degree bent tube down the middle. cut off wheeled the flat patterns. Borrowed a few flanges from the stock VE manifold. Mock up with the base plate looked good so I kept moving forward with some tacks. Couldn't resist dropping it in the bay to take a look. ? More mock up. All prepped and ready to machine the base plate and weld it up. More work on the hot side. Chopped the 3 bolt flange off the RB down pipe, want a V-band. Test fit shows the waste gate bypass was too close for comfort to where the U-joint will live. I had the 2.5" down pipe with 1" bypass. The then needed to merge into a 3" pipe, make the bend under the car, contain a V-band and then get a flex pipe. I decided to put the V-band in the bend, this gave me a degree of adjustment for placing the flex pipe by rotating it in the clamp. Added another bung to the downturn for a potential EGT to go with the AFR. Satisfied with the results in general. Still learning with the welder of course. I got a TON of splatter which I'm not used to, also it stuck to the material rather than the splatter I'm used to that can be knocked off. Maybe this is due to it being SS? Any thoughts? Fitment ended up nice and tight to the tranny and mostly straight into the tranny mount indent. It seems like my speedo cable has to sit on my exhaust. Is this going to just melt right off or is the cable made for the heat?
  15. Sounds like a fun project. I have a scanner at work I've been meaning to learn to use and some CAD skills...
  16. 1912 wow! and I though our 50 year old cars were a challenge! Even cast rockers... Is there rules preventing the use of modern materials? Seems like that would be a worthy place to get some real steel. I'm just as anxious haha. Getting close now.
  17. The idle drops from 1200 down to 950 once it's warmed up. Does that prove it's switching out of warm up mode you think?
  18. Oh yeah, almost forgot, snow day! The Direzzas did not like the snow :lol: VID: https://youtu.be/eqyIlElW0YE
  19. Now that it is a driver, I've been spending more time inside the car instead of under it. Time to clean up the interior! I started by removing as much of the sticker, double sided tape, wire clips, etc from the dash. This meant getting all the way into the gauge cluster to get the yellow carbon look stickers off of there. With the dash apart I was able to undo all of the electrical routing strung through the dash. I moved everything to the passengers side so it could be sorted all at once. The previous owner even cut and extended every heater control wire with red wire and bullet connectors so that it could be stored in the glovebox while all the add on bits were screwed to the dash. Much better. This left me with this impressive pile in the passengers area. Everything on the seat was deemed useless and removed. Only kept the boost controller, digital water temp, and power meter were kept (won't ever use it elsewhere.) This was my favorite wire :roll: Lots of cutting, crimping, heat shrinking and it finally all got put back into it's proper place. Tried on a steering wheel that I had around, liked it better. Back to mechanicals, I removed the MAF and cleaned it up. Ran smoother but MPG didn't change. Ran the ECU diagnosis, came back a clean 55. Plugs suggest a definite rich condition. Thinking it's a bad O2 sensor.
  20. Can you use a FWD alternator setup that puts it on the other side of the block?
  21. To get the interior a bit more tolerable, the stock drivers seat went in and the roll cage came out. Jeff did some buffer work which made an amazing difference! Left in progress, right untouched. End result ? All that was left was to turn the coils down a few inches and correct the alignment. Then off to test drive. All went well, so in to the daily drive routine! About a 100 miles in now. A few sneaking issues. Odometer is broke, not surprising. Clutch slave leaks and needs replacement. Only 13mpg, meaning something is causing a rich condition... have to investigate.
  22. Moving on. The fuel pump needed a proper replacement. This of course involved yanking out the in tank fuel pump which inevitably gets you covered in fuel, in this case 15 year old sludge ? Stock unit was crusty and had a cracked pick up. I replaced it with a Walbro 255, new pick up and cleaned all the sludge out of the tank that I could reach. Somehow all I took was this one terrible pic. Oh well, we all know what old nasty gas and a walbro look like, use your imagination. Along with replacing a few dry rotted fuel lines, that was the fuel issue sorted, for now. I'm nervous about all the other lines that may be close to failing due to the same dry rot. While I was busy sorting the mechanical bits, Jeff took it upon himself to start giving the aesthetics some love. After hours of sticker scraping, he moved on to some mudding. ☺️ I turned focus to the suspension. The setup was assembled incorrectly and very corroded. Disassembled to clean and inspect. Measurements suggest 675lb front springs and 500lb rear! Quite stiff to say the least. I then gave the brakes some attention. Not many pic.s but here are the fronts, better off than the rears! the rear pad material actually separated from the metal backing before separating from the rotor! As the front calipers looked on disassembly. Not too bad, cleaned them up and replaced the seals. Rear calipers got replaced entirely. Can't slow Jeff down! Some single stage for now. Bam! Lets remember what that used to look like.
  23. Not as much as it seems, I'm just bad at posting progress in a timely manner ?
  24. I assume you mean the tie rod pivots being in front of the ball joint. A trick we learned, dont eliminate rear steer as an option. If thhey sold a RHD version of a rear steer car you can buy that ravk and flip it to use in a LHD front steer system.
  25. Nice to be able to change something out of choice and not necessity once in a while ?
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