Jump to content

volkswagner

Senior Member
  • Content Count

    149
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by volkswagner

  1. volkswagner

    Sr20 swap alternator options

    Can you use a FWD alternator setup that puts it on the other side of the block?
  2. While browsing the world wide classifieds for SR20 parts for my 510 wagon build, I happened across this ad. My interest was peaked and I toyed with the idea for a while but eventually moved on. After a couple months, I came to find out that the car never sold and was still sitting at Sodo-Moto. Both Carter and Jeff had dealt with Sodo moto and had nothing but positive reviews. So, I decided to go down and take a look. The ad made it clear that the car was beat down with a lot of "janky tuner mods" and "battle scars" When we got down there it was clear what they meant. "Track Rat" seemed to be a accurate description. The car looked like it had been raced quite a bit. Bolt in cage, a few performance upgrades, race seat, coil overs, and a lot of electronics tied to the ECU. We took stock of the state of the car. As they advertised, the car had some damage on each quarter, it was filled and then re-damged on both sides. Seems the guy wasn't very good at his racing of choice.It did not run as it sat. Sodo Moto had only gone as far as ripping out a bunch of excess wiring shenanigans and diagnosing a fouled fuel pump. Other than that they knew it popped when fed some ether. I knew if I were to get the car it would need to be a runner without extensive work. The owner gave us permission to toy with the car at our will. He brought out a cheapo pump and with the tools I brought we had it fired up in short time. Surprisingly, even after what we guess to be at least 15 years, the SR roared to life. A smooth idle, good compression, boost pressure, some vapor, minimal smoke. However, lots of lifter noise. Since the GTiR has a solid lifters, they are louder than the normal hydraulic lifter SR but this was excessive. This came with low oil pressure, only about 30psi and not much gain with rpm. Engine = good enough Next was the transmission, these cars are notorious for blowing there cogs all over the ground when the overzealous try to put too much boost through all four wheels. Unfortunately, the tires were flat. (Actually worn in half on one by what I assume to be the cars last burn out session before being parked.) So, put it in every gear and pulled forward and back. No grinding, no red flags, best that could be done. Transmission = good enough Brakes, rusted in place and needing a complete overhaul. All glass good. No heavy rust/rot underneath. Interior, seats all there and looking fresh. They even had the minty stock drivers seat! The dash was trashed by gauge mounting and sun cracks. There really wasn't much more to be learned. A deal was struck and then it was just waiting for delivery. Since I still have my torn down wagon clogging up my only garage bay, Jeff was generous enough to loan me one until the car is a driver. Thanks buddy! Parked next to his coupe that he also got from Sodo, how fitting!
  3. volkswagner

    Track Rat - 1991 Pulsar GTIR

    To get the interior a bit more tolerable, the stock drivers seat went in and the roll cage came out. Jeff did some buffer work which made an amazing difference! Left in progress, right untouched. End result ๐Ÿ˜Š All that was left was to turn the coils down a few inches and correct the alignment. Then off to test drive. All went well, so in to the daily drive routine! About a 100 miles in now. A few sneaking issues. Odometer is broke, not surprising. Clutch slave leaks and needs replacement. Only 13mpg, meaning something is causing a rich condition... have to investigate.
  4. volkswagner

    Track Rat - 1991 Pulsar GTIR

    Moving on. The fuel pump needed a proper replacement. This of course involved yanking out the in tank fuel pump which inevitably gets you covered in fuel, in this case 15 year old sludge ๐Ÿ˜ช Stock unit was crusty and had a cracked pick up. I replaced it with a Walbro 255, new pick up and cleaned all the sludge out of the tank that I could reach. Somehow all I took was this one terrible pic. Oh well, we all know what old nasty gas and a walbro look like, use your imagination. Along with replacing a few dry rotted fuel lines, that was the fuel issue sorted, for now. I'm nervous about all the other lines that may be close to failing due to the same dry rot. While I was busy sorting the mechanical bits, Jeff took it upon himself to start giving the aesthetics some love. After hours of sticker scraping, he moved on to some mudding. โ˜บ๏ธ I turned focus to the suspension. The setup was assembled incorrectly and very corroded. Disassembled to clean and inspect. Measurements suggest 675lb front springs and 500lb rear! Quite stiff to say the least. I then gave the brakes some attention. Not many pic.s but here are the fronts, better off than the rears! the rear pad material actually separated from the metal backing before separating from the rotor! As the front calipers looked on disassembly. Not too bad, cleaned them up and replaced the seals. Rear calipers got replaced entirely. Can't slow Jeff down! Some single stage for now. Bam! Lets remember what that used to look like.
  5. volkswagner

    Track Rat - 1991 Pulsar GTIR

    Not as much as it seems, I'm just bad at posting progress in a timely manner ๐Ÿ˜…
  6. volkswagner

    Other option for front steer steering rack?

    I assume you mean the tie rod pivots being in front of the ball joint. A trick we learned, dont eliminate rear steer as an option. If thhey sold a RHD version of a rear steer car you can buy that ravk and flip it to use in a LHD front steer system.
  7. volkswagner

    Bruiser! 78 620 KC project

    Nice to be able to change something out of choice and not necessity once in a while ๐Ÿ˜„
  8. volkswagner

    Track Rat - 1991 Pulsar GTIR

    And some inspiration pictures! Ahhhhh the 90's
  9. volkswagner

    Track Rat - 1991 Pulsar GTIR

    Yep! and now you called it. No take backsies.
  10. volkswagner

    Track Rat - 1991 Pulsar GTIR

    Next up was working this thing in to a runner. Some basic tune-up stuff like fluids and plugs but also some other more crucial stuff like solving the low oil pressure, fixing the fuel pump properly, tires and rebuilding the brakes. Even though this thing is twenty years newer than my Datsuns, it's easy to forget that it is still nearly 30 years old itself! 27 to be exact. It's actually closer in age to our Datsuns than it is to the Nissans of today. First off, The lifters in this thing sounded terrible, like an L motor that hasn't been adjusted in 3000 miles ๐Ÿ˜‚ but, jokes aside quite concerning. Unlike the S chassis SR20's, This motor is a solid lifter head, exactly the same as the VE heads. You can see my wagon build thread to see how much fun re shimming one of these heads is. Other differences include ITB's , 440cc injectors, and supposedly stronger connecting rods. Driven with a T28 like the S14. Basically the lifters are similar to the L motors but without the adjustment screw and so the lash pads have to be ground to the appropriate size to create the desired gap. The leading theory was that one of these lash pads, or an entire rocker arm had flown off. I would have to yank the valve cover to investigate, of course this meant dismounting the IC and a bunch of other bracketry to get there. I decided to start wit something simpler as I was running out of time for the day. I drained the oil, black and thin, seems that 15 years or so of degradation took it's toll. This was actually motivating as it seemed thin oil would explain the low oil pressure. Next, I decided to flush the system a bit by dumping some spare oil straight through and into the drain pan. Basically, just try and get as much of the old degraded oil out as possible. I had a few qaurts of 20w-50 mollasses laying around which seemed perfect to drag its way through. Poured it in new and gold, sure enough it drained out pitch black. Decided it would be good to fill it up and run it a with some other temporary oil once buttoned back up, then redrain again. At this point Jeff pointed out that my pan was crushed up a bit, maybe a forklift from shipping container delivery or some really aggressive driving. It looked slight to me but Jeff insisted it doesn't take much to close off the oil pickup that sits just above the bottom, this would also explain the low oil press. Seemed worth the time so I pulled it off. Sure enough, another great call by Jeff. There was a clear indentation in the pan from the pick up opening! Wowza. Spent some time hammering the pan back to convex. But wait, whats that in the bottom of the pan.. Yep, lash pads! Next work day, time to dig in. Yuck, hope that bolt grommet held up. Survey says? No missing rockers, or lash pads! ๐Ÿคจ Must have thrown a rocker at one point and then replaced it without finding the leftover bits, sheesh. Its possible the 20W-50 was thick enough to drag them out of some hidden crevasses. on to clearance measuring, not easy to accomplish in and of itself. Top number = valve number middle = cam lode clearance bottom = each valve clearance Not ideal as they should each be around 12 thou but, not so bad that they should make so much noise. Decided to keep it as is and see if the clatter was just due to old oil and low pressure. I took time bolting it back together and looked for any cracked vac lines, found a blown breather leaking oil residue and an easily cracked fuel line when replacing the fuel filter. Actually mounted the BOV and Boost solenoid that were just zip tied to stuff. Replaced the plugs, I got some nice NGK replacements and assumed I'd be pulling out some who knows brand or old NGK's... Nope! Thats 3 HKS plugs and 1 Nismo jobber. I didn't even know Nismo made plugs, apparently they are so rare dude could only find one though ๐Ÿ˜… Even the HKS plugs are liek $80 a set. I'd have almost felt bad if they were matching and weren't so roached. Bolted up the IC, replaced the battery and fired it up. Much better! Oil pressure making nearly 60 psi compared to the 30 before and actually rises with rpm. Lifter noise still present but to a much lesser degree. I have no solid lifter SR to compare to so it may even be close to normal. Good enough that I'm no longer concerned by it. Let it come up to temp. to try and clean out more of the old oil. Gave it some rev's all seemed good, idles well. Responds well. Time to put the final oil in. Another surprise! Who knew MOMO made filters? Pulled the wheels to get new rubber, looks like the cars last day in its last life was an eventful one! Thats was most of the basic maintenace taken care of. On to more involved bits. haha forgot to point out this gem in the last overview post, I've never seen one. A "Power" meter, uses signals from the ECU to determine how much air/fuel is being burned and compute a live HP read out. Obviously not uber precise but it even has a function to correct it to a dyno value. Neat, if nothing else!
  11. volkswagner

    Track Rat - 1991 Pulsar GTIR

    With the car in Jeff's shop it was time to go over it with a bit more vigilance and look for any surprises good or bad, that it may have in store. Up on stands for inspection/work. Lots of tuner bits in the bay Crusty coilovers Dude was a shit driver turns out Those won't be flapping much mud! Stainless turbo back... Well, turbo back until the sweet tail pipe yo! Worlds shittiest dash installments junk in the trunk Sticker galore A little switch on the dash, translated to up=KSROM down=normal Since it runs to the ECU and KSROM is a popular ECU tuner, the assumption is it is probably a retune! We'll find out. This was the newest date found on the car, couldn't have been driven much longer before being parked. Tires were from 2001 Cage, race seat and a pile of old harnesses Yikes! More vampires than a Twilight premier in here. Shows how long it was in the sun, I legitimately though it was gold window covering until I lifted the wiper. All in all I would say it was a neutral experience, every unfortunate b it found was balanced by a positive bit. No worse for wear so far. Complete list of extras discovered (for better or worse): Momo steering wheel Bride seat No name Japanese made wheels Greddy Profec boost controller Apexi blow off valve Buddy Club coil overs Cusco strut tower brace Cusco (i think) bolt in cage KS ROM ecu Nismo shift knob HKS billet oil cap Stainless exhaust Splitfire plug wires Blitz air filter SARD attack meter Yashio Factory Okachan water temp meter Apexi power meter ARC intercooler Stainless brake lines
  12. volkswagner

    Freebird: SR20VE+T 510 Wagon

    When I got Freebird It had narrowly avoided being parted, cut, or crushed a couple times. The main motivator of this project is to save a Dato. I got the car when Jeff decided it would look better on the road than as driveway art. This is how I found it. The Engine bay was in pieces and the clutch was blown. First a quick scrub down for motivation. The L20 was reassembled and fired right up. While it was up on jack stands to pull the tranny for the new clutch why not give it some lows. Cut and welded the struts to fit VW inserts. Blocked the Rear 3 inches. Mild stance improvement. Convinced the preggo-wife to help me wet sand the old paint to remove the layer of sludge. Before on left, after on right We also decided some pin stripes would spruce it up a bit. The worst of the damage. Put up a new home for the goon. All this work got Freebird to a state of daily-driveability-enjoyability. I am now commuting in the goon and having a blast. Immediate future plans are to grind it down for a respray and clean up the interior. It will be kept on the road as much as possible throughout the build since I enjoy vintage cars as much for how they drive as for how they look. Most of the panels are pretty far gone so I am opting for as much new metal as possible. Wolfman hooked me up with some doors which are now stripped and epoxy primed. And that's where I'm at.
  13. volkswagner

    Freebird: SR20VE+T 510 Wagon

    As well as pulse overlap, I believe it's best to keep them separate as long as possible to maintain exhaust velocity which is quite critical for driving the exhaust wheel.
  14. volkswagner

    Freebird: SR20VE+T 510 Wagon

    Next up was mounting the turbo. The idea was to use a DET manifold and cut off the T28 flange and weld on a T3 flange at the appropriate angle. I had thought the stock manifolds were an open "log" design. As it turns out that is very wrong. They actually have separately cast runners that twist past each other and combine at the turbo housing. In fact cylinders 4+1 and 2+3 only combine in the manifold and there are two exiting orifices that then merge in the housing. This meant that as I cut back the angle, the separating walls caused choke points. I was able to get satisfactory results by grinding out all of the walls just before the outlet which creates a 4>1 manifold that dumps into the turbo rather than the 4>2 that it originally was. Not Ideal but it will do for now and I'll want to do a tube header whenever I upgrade turbos in the future anyway. The fitment process was a bit tedious, any small change in the flange position was magnified once the turbo was bolted up. This meant the setup went in and out and regrinded/welded and back in at least a dozen times. Eventually I got it where I wanted. To fully weld the flange I had to do some research since, I've never welded cast before. Turns out pre-heat and a controlled cool are the key to prevent cracking. I rolled the BBQ into the shed and brought it up to full grille temp, 600F or so. Once the manifold was heat soaked it seemed to weld quite nice. Then I let it sit under the cover while I stepped down the temp over a few hours. No cracks! but we'll see how it holds up to engine cycles. After grinding and welding it seemed best to touch up the flange surface. The inlets were off by more than I expected. I'm sure they would still have sealed u when bolted tight but it's nice to keep that stress out of it. Least step was to grind off some flashing just for good looks and coated with black VHT. New studs for the turbo, M10 ratehr than the M8's used on T28. I hear chatter on the webs that the T28's lose their seal alot easier due to the smaller M8's stretching whereas the M10 T3 flanges seem much less leak prone, not sure as to the truth in that. I was tempted to tack the nuts in place once torqued but decided to try a nut locking tabs first. I made some up from a spare stainless gasket. With the manifold / turbo installed I focused on the plumbing. In retrospect, I should have installed the lines on the turbo first. Some of the fittings were VERY hard to get on in situ. All in place and happy with the fitment so far. Right about now is when I came across a post on RB turbos that I hadn't up to this point (somehow, thought I had read it all) This particular post identified casting marks and which car they came from. To my dismay, in the same day as buttoning up the turbo I find out, its from an RB20 NOT an RB25 as advertised... ๐Ÿ˜ซ This brings it's efficient power range from about 300 down to 250. They can still be pushed up towards 280 with a little added heat. Oh well, lets me develop a solid tune at lower risk power levels and gives more motivation to upgrade later. Moved on to the cold side plumbing. I was able to find a jog pipe that was the perfect shape (couple inches of length trimmed off) to line up with the air outlet with intercooler inlet. It also left enough room underneath to slip the air filter up behind the headlights using a 45 elbow. Tucked the boost control solenoid next to the brake bias valve. Still have to weld in the BOV and tackle the exhaust. I spent a bit of time trying to figure out what to do with the intake manifold. The VE manifold could possibly be cut/welded again until it fit but in the end it would just be more work to get a terrible looking poorly performing solution. I have an S13 and S14 manifold around. The S14 doesn't line up at all. The S13 intake actually is pretty close but the runner outlets are spaced differntly and te throttle body angle would have to be modified. This brings it right back to the same issues as the VE manifold. Instead, I'm going to try and fab one. I'll make a custom manifold that welds on to the stock runners/injector bosses. I like to think Greddy does it's research to make their parts perform well so I looked to them for geometry. Then using sheet metal and stock mandrel bent pipes I approximated it as closely as I could. This gives me about 3 liters of volume which is well above the "equal to engine cpacity" rule of thumb for manifold volume. This is 45 degree pipe instead of the 30 degree pipe I will use but it shows the idea. Then as Jeff mentioned, I bought a Pusar GTIR and have been spending most of my free time on that the last few weeks. That's nearly driveable now though so, back to this soon!
  15. volkswagner

    Freebird: SR20VE+T 510 Wagon

    I do but it's accidentally in the >trucks>521 section, whoops
  16. volkswagner

    nylon lock washers in place of cotter pins on suspension fasteners?

    Most OEM's now days use nylock nuts instead of cotter pins. If its not a reused nut you don't have anything to worry about.
  17. volkswagner

    Freebird: SR20VE+T 510 Wagon

    Good thought on the pulsation damper I'd never heard of those. It does have a vacuum line.
  18. volkswagner

    Freebird: SR20VE+T 510 Wagon

    Next up was to button up the fuel delivery. 3/8โ€ steel lines for the tank pickup and return. Iโ€™ve heard that 5/16โ€ is most common but I have dreams of E85 one day so I figured I would future proof for that possibility. In general Iโ€™ve never seen any data on the effect of fuel output by pick-up size so I did a quick test with the stock ยผโ€ line and was able to pump 500ml in 15s through the fuel rail and out the return. Online calculators suggests thatโ€™s enough fuel for 395hp on pump gas, anyone know if that's accurate? Iโ€™ll have to remember to do the same test with the new lines once the tank is full. No tube bender but this seemed to work well with some heat. I originally got creative with the supply line path but then decided that was pointless and chopped it back to the single bend out of the tank. Then soft lines out to the outside of the frame rail. Joined the hard lines out there. I was going to follow the more natural path of inside the frame rail but my panhard bar mount and axle looked like they might bash into it there so decided to take a more cautious route. And joining back up with the pump where right where we left it. Filter and soft lines to the fuel rail up front. A question for the crowd, why does my fuel rail have two regulators? I didnโ€™t take a pic but Iโ€™m sure thereโ€™s a view of it in this thread somewhere. There is a regulator both before and after the injectors. All of the the RWD SRโ€™s only have the typical one on the return. Maybe it cuts out at too low of a fuel pressure to prevent damage from leaning out as the pump wears out? Got a visit from my fan technician. He did good. Law of large numbers, with all of the pieces to this puzzle, something had to work out. Once I found a stock 510 transmission isolator (Thanks Carter!) the stock crossmember bolted right in. This let the stock driveline slip in with the appropriate slop as well. A quick spray of high heat paint on the cover for now. I plan to properly paint eventually but this will do till then. The CBR coil seals stop a bit short of slipping in to the cover bores to actually seal. I few chunks of proper size coolant hose got them to the correct height for a nice tight interference. I removed the PCV ports on the intake manifold to prevent a source of boost leak. Found a cheapo catch on ebay to deal with the loose hoses. Had to dig through the sticker stash for an appropriate warning. Still need to sort a mount. On to the exhaust side. The crank vent was wanting to live where the downpipe should be. Cut off one of the bends in the vent pipe and it tucked to the side neatly. Turbo fitment up next.
  19. volkswagner

    Freebird: SR20VE+T 510 Wagon

    Yep mostly just convenience, they're easy to come by and are cheap for what they are because they don't handle much more boost for the RB guys so they all take them off, also they aren't a complete bolt in for T3 guys so they don't pick them up. It works for my power goals though. They are basically a T28 in T3 housings. As far as I can tell this just gives them a larger efficiency range. I figured since I was already building everything from scratch there was no need to pigeon hole myself into a T28. Now if I want a T3 in the future it should be as easy as an exhaust flange on the down pipe.
  20. volkswagner

    Freebird: SR20VE+T 510 Wagon

    Sure does, it's been too long. Hopefully it will be able to stay where it is and not need to come out for the rest of the work, we'll see.
  21. volkswagner

    Freebird: SR20VE+T 510 Wagon

    I gave some attention to the shifter. I like having my knob tall and close to the steering wheel for quicker access. However, with my short arms it gets hard to reach the full travel of a tall shifter in 5th. Short guy problems, Jeff will understand because we are the same height. Cut and extended the knub below the pivot point. Raised the pivot point the same amount. Sanded some delrin to press fit for a new bushing to remove some slop. I then shim the shifter between the pivot tabs to get a close fit and use a fastener and nut to pre-load the pivot to reduce lateral slop without causing friction in the shifting. Good great, shifter sorted so the transmission can get installed one final time before dropping in the bay. All good, until... Thud. That's as far as the starter goes. ๐Ÿ™„ It was hitting the bell housing, pulled off the tranny again for some clearancing. An found that it was more than a bell problem. Even the flywheel clashes. After some researching I came across this SR starter advertised for a Primera, the car my motor came from, except mine was automatic. I contacted Guy Selle to confirm my suspicions. Yes the bell needs to get clearanced and yes that was the started I needed. The starter is of course only available on a few JDM models, there goes another couple racecar coupons ๐Ÿ˜‘ Then for the clearancing, some time with a caribide bit later. The adapter leaves an opening right next to the starter gear, not the best place to let crud accumulate. Nothing some epoxy couldn't handle, oiled to adapter so hopefully when the tranny is removed next the epoxy will stay with that. Finally! up in the air! ahhh, cozy. My biggest anxiety appeased, perfect clearance for the solenoid. And then my biggest oversight, whoops! Lesson learned, tack and test fit the manifold before fully welding. haha. Nice amount of room up front for the fans. Off with the intake to get cut down to size.
  22. volkswagner

    B-Sedan replica car - building the Orangeboom car

    I love your GT-4 paint scheme! A year is a lightening fast build around here ๐Ÿ˜…
  23. volkswagner

    Jeff made me do it - Cactus Green 1972 510 FJ 2dr

    As a front air dam!
  24. volkswagner

    Freebird: SR20VE+T 510 Wagon

    I re-linked the last three posts to a different image host.
  25. volkswagner

    Freebird: SR20VE+T 510 Wagon

    Annoying, time for a new image host. I'll redo links on the last two posts. Do the broken links go back further? I can't tell since I can see them all on my end.
ร—

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.