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About volkswagner

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    510 wagon

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  1. It's a good question. With a few answers. There are 2 main things I use this for when its running, daily driving and autocross. That means a lot of parking in lots with sticky tires. As well, the steering rack I put in brings my ratio down to 2 turns lock-to-lock, much less and there fore much harder to turn than stock. Further more, if I can fit the kit to my 510 it will be easy to see whether we want it in our endurance 510. After 1 hour of tossing that thing around the track with brute force, I will freely admit my arms are spent. And if we ever want to be competitive we will have to do the max driving stint of 2 hours!. Why this electric power steering when the JBC kit makes hydraulic power as easy as bolting in a hydraulic rack and mounting a pump that I have to the motor? What are the two big negatives of PS? numb driving feel and parasitic power loss. The electric setup is tuneable from 0 output to full motor output. That means if it's too numb, just dial it back, I've never seen a hydraulic setup do that! Also, its electric so the parasitc loss is just in the alternator which has a power reserve (battery) to draw from so the actual engine doesn't need to provide all of the energy on demand like a hydraulic pump and instead charges up slowly over time. As far as the 90's, I don't think they even had electric PS then. Have you driven a 510 with PS? I just drove JEff's, it's wicked!
  2. I didn't get very far with the wiring before I decided I needed to get an alternator situated before deciding how to route my wires. Two options, on the right side where the FWD alt typically lives execpet the stock setup won't work due to the turbo inlet. or on the left side where the RWD alt sits. Although the stock setup again won't work since the stock FWD oil boss is in the way... I headed to the junk yard to hunt , I was looking for a Nissan Quest alternator which is a popular upgrade on the SR's it sits on the left. Then I found this seemingly brand new unit out of a 2001 Sentra. It comes in at a similar 120A and has the added benefit of a clutched pulley. As well it is set up to swing from the right side of the block instead of the left. For weight distribution I was originally going to go for the left side but then I realized that there are a lot of hoses and filters and such on that side that it would be great to have better access to since the intake manifold will inhibit most work from above. So the right side would actually be much better for that reason. It even matched the stock RWD bracket but of course there was no where to bolt that on the right side. Another treasure from the yard, a Saturn Vue electric power steering column! Been wanting to get my hands on one of these for quite a while. Couldn't help but do a comparison, this is all parts of electric and stock 510 laid out real position. Looks quite doable with a few welds 🙂 Fitting the motor under the dash will require some creativity though... Spent some time mocking up a bracket to mount the new alt. Bolts to the stock AC compressor mounting holes. Did require a bit of block clearance to let the belt leave the crank at a different clocking Picked up an existing threaded hole on the block for tensioning. It's all of a sudden looking very crowded on this side of the block, still have to put the steering column back in over here too. A bit more work on the intake side. Learned myself how to program the CNC on our mill at work to get a flange cut for the runners A bit of lead in radius Matched up to the runners. One more mock up before boxing it up to send to my brother for full welding.
  3. 6 weeks until race day! Not as much to do as last year but still a good size list. Only a few things would keep us from racing so we're feeling comfortable. As long as the clunk stays away... Last year we dropped the SR in and it fired up so we rolled with it. We decided to take a look at the basic tune up parts we ignored before. Plugs, don't look too terrible but we decided to swap out to some new coppers for better robustness. The plug pockets being filled up with oil led us to yank the VC cover and find a worn center seal. Changed the fuel filter. How about the cap an rotor? Whoops! We might have been leaving a few HP on the table last year. Got a little further with the rear brakes. A bit of test fitting showed where the deign needed tweaks. Now to cut some aluminum. The B&M short shifter we installed last year was proving to be more hassle than it was worth. It just never felt right and was causing mis-shifts which doesn't help our gearbox longevity any. Time to put the stock part back in. Once it was out, the poor shifting made a bit more sense. (Those are supposed to be straight.) This jogged Jeff's memory, he had gotten the part from a guy who had to "hold" his bad gearbox in 5th. I must have missed the damage when installing it in our rush last year. Two birds with one stone, we were also leaking transmission fluid last year from what we thought was the output shaft seal. Turns out it was a failed seal on the shifter. A little honda bond to sort that out. You'll recall we had issues with our hood flapping as we went down the track last year. The old race hood had it's support structure removed, coupled with the corroded state of it and our missing front valence sending 120mph winds directly into the bay meant the hood had cycled itself to failure. Luckily Jeff had a color matched hood on hand. with good support structure. He was even able to find some hinges to make opening the hood a one man job instead of the 2 man lift needed for the 4 pin hood we had. Much better!
  4. New facebook page for build updates and live track side updates. Give us a like and follow if you're in to that sort of thing. https://www.facebook.com/JAYBO-Racing-1993296944299821/
  5. First order of business, whats the Clunk! The prime suspect was the differential since the noise was speed dependent and very loud. Out it came. Once on the bench it was obvious... that this was not going to be as easy to figure out as we had hoped. No matter how hard he looked, Jeff just couldn't see anything wrong with the diff. He called in a keener set of eyes. Still, there was no signs of damage. No witness marks on the teeth, no metal in the oil, no disruptions felt when rotating the gears. As far as we could tell. The diff was tip top. On to lesser suspects. We started spinning everything from the transmission back feeling for play or resistance. Nothing substantial. We got to the rear wheel bearings and the passengers side assembly had distinctly more friction the the drivers. "Hey did we ever change the rear wheel bearings during the rebuild?" "No" Lets remember where this car came from, 🤔 😬 A little help with the cutting wheel to separate the races. Sure looks like something spent some time getting to know each ball a little to intimately. Is this our culprit, or is this just a bad bearing that was a whole separate problem? We honestly aren't sure ourselves. Only way to know is reassemble and test drive. It's a little easier to believe when you consider that the rear crossmemeber is hard mounted and there is no interior what so ever to stop the direct transmission of noise from hub to cockpit. Well, since the rear end is disassembled. No better time than now to sort out that failing rear brake situation.
  6. Looks like you got everything Carter. On to the 2019 season! Swamp thing was stored at Jeff's all year. We parked it after the last race and didn't touch it except for an occasional startup by Jeff to keep it lubricated. With 8 weeks until race day, We finally decided it was time to start getting the car prepped for the season. After all, we still don't know what that clunk was! Luckily Swamp thing started up, seemingly no worse for wear than when parked.
  7. Most of my time has been taken up by the GTI-R recently. However, that's starting to be a bit more reliable so I'm hoping to be on the goon a bit more. On the other hand, the enduro season is fast approaching and Swamp thing needs some help. We'll see. Finally! This was one of those annoying little details that's been nagging me for months. I've been looking for an upper radiator hose since I dropped the motor in. Everyone I tried wouldn't work just barely. I was just about ready to make it a two piece run when I found this one. Gates 21922. A little trim to fit. Picture makes it look closer to the head than it really is. Perfect fit, FWD SR water neck to stock location 510 radiator outlet. Dropped in the wide band. The old E-brake pass through was conveniently located and I should be able to snake the EGT wire through there as well. Speaking of wires. That's where I'm at. Starting to rough in the mega squirt harness. Some things end up in free space without the intake manifold but it sure gives better access.
  8. This is awesome! Lots of fun to watch, keep it up. On the sinusoidal steering, make sure your u-joints are clocked correctly as well.
  9. Good idea guys, I'll give that a shot! I'd like to go digital gauges in the long run in which case a GPS speedo would make the cable redundant, hopefully the wrap will make the cable last until then.
  10. Quite possible. I want to built a quick and dirty injector test setup. Use a spare fuel rail and pump it up then just turn them on 100% for a certain time and measure volumes. I could then at least make sure they are all balanced even if the accuracy isn't the greatest. This would also give me an idea of the pump capacity if I put a gauge on and look for pressure drop. We'll see if I get that far. Either way. AFR gauge should be a decent indicator of the pump doing it's job and I can swap quite easily if needed, one benefit to a inline vs in tank.
  11. Ahhh I see, I think SR's came with both the heat type and ECU controlled type, will have to research.
  12. It seems like a small thing but, it's been so long since the grille/lights were in place that it makes it feel so much closer. On to the intake manifold. Began by sectioning the 3" diamter 30 degree bent tube down the middle. cut off wheeled the flat patterns. Borrowed a few flanges from the stock VE manifold. Mock up with the base plate looked good so I kept moving forward with some tacks. Couldn't resist dropping it in the bay to take a look. ? More mock up. All prepped and ready to machine the base plate and weld it up. More work on the hot side. Chopped the 3 bolt flange off the RB down pipe, want a V-band. Test fit shows the waste gate bypass was too close for comfort to where the U-joint will live. I had the 2.5" down pipe with 1" bypass. The then needed to merge into a 3" pipe, make the bend under the car, contain a V-band and then get a flex pipe. I decided to put the V-band in the bend, this gave me a degree of adjustment for placing the flex pipe by rotating it in the clamp. Added another bung to the downturn for a potential EGT to go with the AFR. Satisfied with the results in general. Still learning with the welder of course. I got a TON of splatter which I'm not used to, also it stuck to the material rather than the splatter I'm used to that can be knocked off. Maybe this is due to it being SS? Any thoughts? Fitment ended up nice and tight to the tranny and mostly straight into the tranny mount indent. It seems like my speedo cable has to sit on my exhaust. Is this going to just melt right off or is the cable made for the heat?
  13. Sounds like a fun project. I have a scanner at work I've been meaning to learn to use and some CAD skills...
  14. 1912 wow! and I though our 50 year old cars were a challenge! Even cast rockers... Is there rules preventing the use of modern materials? Seems like that would be a worthy place to get some real steel. I'm just as anxious haha. Getting close now.
  15. The idle drops from 1200 down to 950 once it's warmed up. Does that prove it's switching out of warm up mode you think?
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