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About volkswagner

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    510 wagon

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  1. Next up delete those bean counter bars bolted on the front and back! 🙂
  2. That certainly looks a bit more stout! If I have any more trouble I'll likely jump to a filter sandwich plate. I would like an oil cooler eventually any way. I would also be able to run my VVL from it and use the adapters I have to relocate the solenoids and run both cams separately. Seems to be fine now though.
  3. Another week, another close call. This time I am on my way to work and a begin to develop a trailing cloud of oil smoke. Check gauges, everything seems good and come to the conclusion that my turbo seals have let out and I'll be looking for another one. Then at about 1/2 mile from work i come to one of my last stop lights and my oil light comes on. I pull over immediately and find a good stream of oil coming out from under the car. I had a quart in the car and decided to dump it in and see if I could get to work with oil pressure. I did that and was able to keep pressure all the way. Pulling in to the lot I left a near unbroken stream on the ground. Whoops. Starting to make our poor work parking look like an autozone parking lot with the oil spots everywhere. Some lunch time diagnosis show the oil coming from this adapter. My VDO gauge sender has 1/8NPT and the oem location is 1/8BSPT. When installing I tried to do the "right" thing and buy an adapter. I figured this came loose. I went to tighten it and just as I lightly touched it the whole sender falls right off.... Turns out the vibrations with the heavy sender cracked the brass and it was barely hanging on. Easy-out to the rescue. Then I did what I probably should have in the first place. Rammed the NPT into the BSPT and gave it an extra crank to make sure the threads forged to the correct size. All good for the rest of the week. Not much else new hardware wise. Continuing down my tuning rabbit hole though. I've started trying to dial in my boost control solenoid. The stock wastegate spring yeilds the below. Full throttle gives a rather steady 7psi boost with a slight drop when VVL comes on. After playing with the controller I can get results closer to below with boost coming on much quicker and hovering closer to the 10psi I would like to be at. Still have to work on the stability. Again you can see a load drop at VVL. This proves the saying "boost is just a measure of resistance" Valves open up, resistance drops and boost drops with it, and then gets brought back up by the solenoid. The most important line on this chart though is the red line. My injector duty cycle. Yep, thats right. Maxed out by about 6500 with a cooresponding, not good AFR increase. Going to look in to upping the fuel pressure and maybe lowering the boost up top. Another fun one. This does a good job displaying the effects of the VVL, as it comes on the required fuel goes uppity up.
  4. It's not exactly loud, the noise level is very tolerable. It's quieter than my L motor 521 with an exhaust leak 😅 and much quieter than my straight pipe GTIR. If I only drove the car weekends or whatever I would be content, however driving it daily it starts to get a drone when cruising. It's actually kinda odd, the exhaust note at cruise must match the resonant frequency of the wagon drivers compartment. As you're cruising you can hear the noise reverberate back and forth between the front and rear. I'll likely try a resonator at some point o change the frequency. A lot of my noise right now is actually my terrible driveline angle due to the SR sitting at a different angle. I have to change that.
  5. 10:1 compression seems to make up the difference on the bottom of the rev range. It is also very derivable down low for daily but has the top when you want it. I would love to get the S14 runners on and get a back to back comparison though!
  6. All was going smoothly for a while. The tune was feeling like it was settling down. The added turbo heat seemed to be giving me some brake fade. Finished up a quick heat shield to help. Then I started getting really weird behavior and sporatic AFR readings. IT was easy at first to chalk this up to my poor tuning skills so I spent some time chasing my tail with that. Finally decided I must have a boost leak. Did some investigating and found a small issue. That's the bottom of my manifold. not visible from above. Took it off to re-weld and found the problem was a bit more extensive. Had Jeff seal everything back up. I was thinking at this point that it must have been from intake back fires during my cam issue, that made large psi spikes. Back to commuting.... Work bays are convenient for quick changes. Back to the track... Went well. Added power of course just highlighted the lack of chassis mods I made during the last couple years. Luckily those are up next. Clutch was giving issues for engagement and feel. Then once I got to about 1/2 tank. I started to fuel starve on the straight. Installed an auto-adjust S-chassis clutch slave. Much better engagement now. Stalled at work, some investigation and Jeff noticed my Cam sensor had broken the adhesion from the mounting nut. Probably from lack of clearance to the upper radiator hose and engine movement. Glued it up and trimmed the hose to give more clearance. About a week of nice driving and then some familiar symptoms cropped up. Decided to remove the IACV all together since I wasn't utilizing it. And replaced that section with thicker sheet. Since there were no intake back fores this time around, the latest theory is some 7075 crack prone aluminum alloy was originally used. In interest of a more robust solution for future SR20VE swaps. I took the oppurtunity to look at the possibilty of an S14 intake adapter. Looks do-able
  7. Small notes. The 2.0 steering ratio is heavy of course at low speed but feel great for highway cruising and such. Auto X in a week to see how it feels on the track. New throttle body setup feel smooth and linear. I like it much better. Bigger turbo, certainly as more lag but it's not a fair comparison seeing's how the old turbo had no oil viscosity to spin 100K rpm in. I'm only running on 7psi stock waste gate right now. I'm interested to see how much the boost solenoid improves the situation. Hasn't let loose yet.
  8. While I had some stuff apart I decided to install the eccentric throttle wheel I had got a while ago. This wheel has a variable radius as it rotates. It makes it slower action under partial throttle cruising around and then snaps open with fast action for WOT. Since I was putting on this and a bigger turbo with more lag I figured my throttle response wouldn't be too touchy so I could also bump up to the larger throttle body I had around. Original S14 TB on the left. VE TB on the right, noticable difference. I know I measured them but can't find the picture, 🙁. Turbo all prepped up with the fluid lines. One thing I didn't consider until I was bolting up was that I had made my manifold a pretty tight fit to the original turbo. The extra girth *almost* didn't make it! Got everything else back together and away it went. Back on the commuter routine. There was a pretty significant hiccup that didn't make the photo reel. My first drive to work I parked and came back out to a huge puddle of oil. Investigated at lunch and found that the band clamp i used for the turbo oil drain had cut through the drain tube. Letting most of it come right out. Qaurt low by the time to work. A trip to the auto store and some parking lot repairs got it sorted quick. All good so far after that. Even better the tune has been smoothing out and making for a really enjoyable ride. 🤗
  9. My thoughts when looking at it were to section out about 6" from the rockers/lower body that is rotted away anyway. That would correct the body aspect ratio to give it a much sportier look. Of course, I'm short so head room is less of a worry for me...
  10. Some video eavesdropping from other teams. 1:05:10 Sam coming up in the rear view through the banked corners. Cool to see how much gap is closed through that section. 52:06 Jeff closing in at the end of the straight then taking his favorite curbed corner 13:00:00 Time says 12:33PM so I believe this is just a few laps after Carter got in the car Sunday. Clean overtake at the end of the straight and then battling with a Rabbit off into the horizon. 16:50 Carter end of day Saturday based off the sun. 0:00 Saturday stint one, right behind Carter leaving the pit Sunday Finish
  11. My shots, filtered by what isn't basically repeats of the other guys. And then some professional on track shots
  12. Well the tank flush looked like a success. Rolled it around with nuts bolts and vinegar and got this nasty slurry at the end. Put one gallon of fresh fuel in and gave it a roll and rinse. Did that 5 times and reinstalled. Once back together the fueling remained good for awhile but started to clog up yet again. I'm hoping this is just the remaining loose junk that was knocked off. The next plan is to hook up the pump through filter and bypass the engine and loop to the return line. Then just let it run and recirculate for hours on end until the filters stop clogging. If that doesn't work in I'll give in and try a tank sealer. in between fuel filter changes, I was able to get Jeff in the passengers seat for some tuning time. We didn't get very far before, without any significant event the engine started to sound very loud on throttle. We pulled over and began investigating. The first thought was I broke my down pipe welds since that has already scraped a few times. However all the noise seemed to be coming out the end of the tailpipe not from under the car and no leak was found. We decided to head back to Jeff's when we noticed the engine was no longer making boost. So we started looking for turbo issues. Thought was maybe the waste gate was stuck open leading to no boost and excess exhaust noise. We even found that my wastegate actuator was clashing on a fitting! Good to know, but manual actuation showed no issue. This is when I got a new theory. The RB turbo's have ceramic exhaust wheels that are glued to the rotating shaft. At above 14psi or with too much heat, the glue fails and the wheel lets go. I have no logs of boost above 12psi but who knows with second hand parts. To check, we popped off the air filter and gave some revs. The intake wheel didn't move a bit. Sanity check, spun the wheel by hand and it wasn't seized. Makes sense, no boost, no turbo extracting exhaust energy. Might as well be a NA SR20VE at that point. Satisfied with diagnosis, we stuck a filter on the end of the throttle body and I drove the car home. A fun experience I got out of the failure is a data logged run with the motor as NA rather than turbo, this allowed me to compare the easy install I could have done to the significantly more involved turbo build I decided to complete. While the NA VE was still very impressive, it was easy to see I made the right choice. Need to get my boosties back 😊 Step one, check to catalytic boost collector. Theory confirmed. Now to yank the turbo and look for a replacement. And there we have it. A smoking gun, which is great because it means I can rebuild without wondering about a repeat of the SAME problem. That there is the oil restrictor it has a tiny orifice on the other side to reduce oil pressure to the turbo. Apparently there were a couple chips left i the oil supply I had to drill into the block. The compressed air and vacuum must have not quite done the trick. I could hardly blow through the orifice with the chips in place. Suprising that the exhaust wheel let go before the bearings seized given no oil... Must have been the extra heat. As evident by the lack of oil in the drain. This is one of those things that crossed my mind to check for on start up but never actually happened. Ooops. Glad I was able to learn on a $100 turbo and not a $1000 turbo phew 😅 Interesting to see. Just this D shaped nub glued to the end of the shaft. OEM solution. You can see the exhaust housing was chewed up from the shrapnel. I don't know how we didn't hear anything in the car. Welp, turbo number 2. Original turbo on left. Recall that one I was supposed to be a RB25DET unit but I found out it was a RB20DET. Which as compared to the actual RB25 unit I just got on the right is quite a bit smaller. So silver lining I get to upgrade a bit. Will be fun to compare data logs. Then I went on vacation so progress has been stagnant for a bit. Hope to get it back rolling soon.
  13. Ahh, there's the prioritizing I like to see. Those adapters are awesome, go get us some data! Whats the threaded hole on the top for?
  14. Hopefully, yet to be proven for sure. Looks quite likely though.
  15. It seems the simplest answer is usually the right answer is the case here. Sat. morning I took the car out for a purposeful test drive as oppose to a commute to work in busy traffic. I had parked the car Fri. night with it still having the lean issue and idling at low pressure. I started it in the morning and the pressure was back to it's high reading. I drove to a flat empty stretch and just as the car got to temp I tried to bring it up through the rev.s , still leaned out. Got out and checked the pressure, still at the high reading! Guess that rules that out. It seems the pressure reading issue is completely heat related. I have read that fluid filled gauges (which it is) can be sensitive to temperature and change rapidly. Anyone experience this? So I keep driving a mile to the closest autozone. Once there I check the pressure again and it's down to the low reading. Changing nothing else (I didn't even have my tuning laptop) I bought a new fuel filter and installed it in the lot. Wouldn't you know bam! my AFR falls to overly rich! This may seem like an obvious diagnosis and it is. I just never looked into because when I welded the larger pickups in to my tank I purposefully cleaned it out. Put the nuts and bolts in, rolled it around, let it sit with vinegar etc. etc. As well, Jeff and I were talking about how when you're starting up a complicated project like this where everything was F'd with and your tuning it yourself, you just can't help but assume it's some complicated issue because you have so many aspects of the project in your head. Anyway, back home, got out the scope and jammed it in the sender hole. Picture is less informative than video but there are some visible rust dots all over the walls. Tried to scrape them with the scope but couldn't really get anything to move, saw a couple floaters. In all though it didn't look terrible. But the sender looked like this. Fresh orange surface crud that I would not have assembled without cleaning. Time for a more informative test. Found the glass filter from my rusty 521 tank days. Put it in line between the tank and pump before the high pressure would make it blow to pieces. Before a 5 min cruise. After a the cruise where the car began to lean out again. That seems conclusive. Time to yank the tank. The speckled pattern of the rust dots make it look like moisture droplets. I had cleaned the tank months before ever filling it for the first time. My thought is it wasn't fully dry and any moisture cause some flash rusting. I'm actually reading now that vinegar while good at cleaning rust can actually promote flash rust after it's used? While draining the tank I noticed the fuel "glugging" out the drain like a milk jug when my cap was on. I have a vented cap that should prevent pressure build up. I decided to take it apart and investigate as a vacuum build up certainly wouldn't help my case. Turns out the vent is on a preloaded spring which made the tank have to build pressure before releasing. I yanked the spring and reassembled. Now it drains without restriction. May splash out in hard corners but there is still a pretty good labrynth seal when reassembled. We'll see. Not from this weekend but an older picture from a follow up test on the compression. Seems the rings are doing well. The tank is removed and I'm repeating the vinegar and bolts method. What does everyone like to do for cleaning their tanks. Vinegar bath, bolt tumble, fuel rinse, install, and this time fill to the brim immediately. Anyone have some other preferred steps. I know there are sealants but I'd rather avoid that if there are no leaks to fill. It always seemed like a band aid fix to leave the corrosion in place and cover it with something that could potentially flake off and cause the same issue.
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