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volkswagner

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About volkswagner

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    SAM!!!!!!!

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  • Location
    WA
  • Cars
    510 wagon

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  1. It misses pretty consistently every few seconds at idle and cruise. May be that it does it all the time but isn’t noticeable at higher rev.s. I have a Taarks cam angle sensor , Hall effect. The odd thing is I have never once had a single trigger error from megasquirt and all my tooth logs look great. This makes me think the Trigger signal is good and it’s the actual ignition output that is having the issue.
  2. With the wagon finally reliably doing daily driver duty, it was time to put the pulsar in garage. My AFR readings have been even more odd seeming than usual, exspecially at idle and cruise. So I took out my O2 to do a "free air" calibration and see if that helped the readings look more reasonable. Thats when I noticed this large dent in the sensor housing... oh yeah, I sent 100K rpm turbo shrapnel past that sensor 😬 Needless to say failed calibration. While waiting for new O2 to arrive, I went looking else where for cause of my full duty injectors problem. Jeff suggested using the bluetooth borescope we have to record my fuel pressure gauge while driving. The idle pressure is set at 4bar ~60psi) which should climb to about 70psi with boost. Sure enough, the pressure would plummet to 30psi after about 4k rpm. Hence my injectors would stay open twice as lon to try and get the right fuel supply. Swappe pumps out and after adjusting the tables my max duty dropped to about 50% Much better! I had to investigate further. Turns out Walbro's have an unservicable, uninspectable integrated filter. This probably clogged real quick before i new I had dirty tank problems and installed a pre-filter. I would have assumed the junk would have pumped on through and damaged the gear teeth and causing lack of pressure. I didn't anticipate it clogging up and causing lack of flow. New O2 arrived. Didnt really solve any problems but certainly is giving me more reasonable numbers and is giving me confidence in my tune. A big remaining issue is a persistent ignition miss. I am thinking it is megasquirt build related at this point. I've changed plugs a few times chasing this and it's nice to see they are always an even color across ports which gives me confidence my intake isn't leaning a single cylinder.
  3. I forgot to mentioned the main motivation for the shock swap. Last autocross I could not at all keep my tires on the ground. Kept lifting up the inner and one wheel peeling on every corner. I attributed this to the rear shocks extension that maxes out and prevents droop. The Bilstein setup would only allow 0.75" droop! New setup puts it closer to 2.5", we'll see if this has the affect I hope for!
  4. Jeff and I grabbed a blown GTIR SR20. Known as a "54C" since even thoug it's an SR20 it shares almost no parts even with the FWD DE's non the less the RWD DET's. Weird Nissan didn't give them their own code. This yeilded a few good parts for my GTIR engine rebuild but more importantly its the right block pattern for us to start making transmission adapters to the VE series engines with RWD transmissions. Specifically, VET>CD001/CD009 and VET>Z32 being our priority. The wagon was feeling laggy for a while and the boost control scheme in megasquirt was proving much more difficult than I hear it should be. This made me suspect a hardware issue. So I looked into the wastegate and it turns out that my actuator wasn't fully closing my wastegate. Therefore, lag monster. As well there is a sticky spot in the stroke (gate is hitting something internal) This was likely causing all sorts of troubles for the boost algorithm. Reduced the sticking as much as I could and re adjusted the acuator stroke. BAM, all the boost by 3K like it should be and easily controlled by the algorithm. Then the next day I'm half way through my commute and the car stops making any boost. VEry familiar feeling, like when I toasted my last turbo. Womp womp. Drive home feeling bummed. But then get a nice surprise after a quick inspection. The E clip holding the actuator on fell off was all. Phew. Grabbed some cheap ksport S13 coilovers to start playing with, quite trashed but the price is right. Rears were still good, fronts need damper replacement. Decided to install the rears since I currently have some super stiff bilstiens with like 800lb springs back there. Recall that last time I touched the rear was when I installed the 200sx lsd rear end. Which happened to be wider than the 510 axle which made my tires rub, so I reinstalled the stiff coils to jack it up for clearance. This meant that in order to install the adjustable dampers, I would also have to cut my lower blocks to "raise" the car at the same time to compensate for the extra static spring compression. From the left. Bilstiens coming out, ksports going in, ksport as set up for the S13, the KYB I was most satisfied wit in the past. I set the damper adjustment to match the KYB as a starting point. Shaved some height and also removed some angle to get the U-joints a bit happier. Gave myself an access hole in the rear to adjust. Conveniently, this portion of the frame is boxed in and closed out by the shock mount so there shouldn't even be water penetration. Helper #2 Test drive success, felt great. Realize I never reset my pan hard bar though so the axle was being pushed to far to one side. Corrected that now.
  5. Next up delete those bean counter bars bolted on the front and back! πŸ™‚
  6. That certainly looks a bit more stout! If I have any more trouble I'll likely jump to a filter sandwich plate. I would like an oil cooler eventually any way. I would also be able to run my VVL from it and use the adapters I have to relocate the solenoids and run both cams separately. Seems to be fine now though.
  7. Another week, another close call. This time I am on my way to work and a begin to develop a trailing cloud of oil smoke. Check gauges, everything seems good and come to the conclusion that my turbo seals have let out and I'll be looking for another one. Then at about 1/2 mile from work i come to one of my last stop lights and my oil light comes on. I pull over immediately and find a good stream of oil coming out from under the car. I had a quart in the car and decided to dump it in and see if I could get to work with oil pressure. I did that and was able to keep pressure all the way. Pulling in to the lot I left a near unbroken stream on the ground. Whoops. Starting to make our poor work parking look like an autozone parking lot with the oil spots everywhere. Some lunch time diagnosis show the oil coming from this adapter. My VDO gauge sender has 1/8NPT and the oem location is 1/8BSPT. When installing I tried to do the "right" thing and buy an adapter. I figured this came loose. I went to tighten it and just as I lightly touched it the whole sender falls right off.... Turns out the vibrations with the heavy sender cracked the brass and it was barely hanging on. Easy-out to the rescue. Then I did what I probably should have in the first place. Rammed the NPT into the BSPT and gave it an extra crank to make sure the threads forged to the correct size. All good for the rest of the week. Not much else new hardware wise. Continuing down my tuning rabbit hole though. I've started trying to dial in my boost control solenoid. The stock wastegate spring yeilds the below. Full throttle gives a rather steady 7psi boost with a slight drop when VVL comes on. After playing with the controller I can get results closer to below with boost coming on much quicker and hovering closer to the 10psi I would like to be at. Still have to work on the stability. Again you can see a load drop at VVL. This proves the saying "boost is just a measure of resistance" Valves open up, resistance drops and boost drops with it, and then gets brought back up by the solenoid. The most important line on this chart though is the red line. My injector duty cycle. Yep, thats right. Maxed out by about 6500 with a cooresponding, not good AFR increase. Going to look in to upping the fuel pressure and maybe lowering the boost up top. Another fun one. This does a good job displaying the effects of the VVL, as it comes on the required fuel goes uppity up.
  8. It's not exactly loud, the noise level is very tolerable. It's quieter than my L motor 521 with an exhaust leak πŸ˜… and much quieter than my straight pipe GTIR. If I only drove the car weekends or whatever I would be content, however driving it daily it starts to get a drone when cruising. It's actually kinda odd, the exhaust note at cruise must match the resonant frequency of the wagon drivers compartment. As you're cruising you can hear the noise reverberate back and forth between the front and rear. I'll likely try a resonator at some point o change the frequency. A lot of my noise right now is actually my terrible driveline angle due to the SR sitting at a different angle. I have to change that.
  9. 10:1 compression seems to make up the difference on the bottom of the rev range. It is also very derivable down low for daily but has the top when you want it. I would love to get the S14 runners on and get a back to back comparison though!
  10. All was going smoothly for a while. The tune was feeling like it was settling down. The added turbo heat seemed to be giving me some brake fade. Finished up a quick heat shield to help. Then I started getting really weird behavior and sporatic AFR readings. IT was easy at first to chalk this up to my poor tuning skills so I spent some time chasing my tail with that. Finally decided I must have a boost leak. Did some investigating and found a small issue. That's the bottom of my manifold. not visible from above. Took it off to re-weld and found the problem was a bit more extensive. Had Jeff seal everything back up. I was thinking at this point that it must have been from intake back fires during my cam issue, that made large psi spikes. Back to commuting.... Work bays are convenient for quick changes. Back to the track... Went well. Added power of course just highlighted the lack of chassis mods I made during the last couple years. Luckily those are up next. Clutch was giving issues for engagement and feel. Then once I got to about 1/2 tank. I started to fuel starve on the straight. Installed an auto-adjust S-chassis clutch slave. Much better engagement now. Stalled at work, some investigation and Jeff noticed my Cam sensor had broken the adhesion from the mounting nut. Probably from lack of clearance to the upper radiator hose and engine movement. Glued it up and trimmed the hose to give more clearance. About a week of nice driving and then some familiar symptoms cropped up. Decided to remove the IACV all together since I wasn't utilizing it. And replaced that section with thicker sheet. Since there were no intake back fores this time around, the latest theory is some 7075 crack prone aluminum alloy was originally used. In interest of a more robust solution for future SR20VE swaps. I took the oppurtunity to look at the possibilty of an S14 intake adapter. Looks do-able
  11. Small notes. The 2.0 steering ratio is heavy of course at low speed but feel great for highway cruising and such. Auto X in a week to see how it feels on the track. New throttle body setup feel smooth and linear. I like it much better. Bigger turbo, certainly as more lag but it's not a fair comparison seeing's how the old turbo had no oil viscosity to spin 100K rpm in. I'm only running on 7psi stock waste gate right now. I'm interested to see how much the boost solenoid improves the situation. Hasn't let loose yet.
  12. While I had some stuff apart I decided to install the eccentric throttle wheel I had got a while ago. This wheel has a variable radius as it rotates. It makes it slower action under partial throttle cruising around and then snaps open with fast action for WOT. Since I was putting on this and a bigger turbo with more lag I figured my throttle response wouldn't be too touchy so I could also bump up to the larger throttle body I had around. Original S14 TB on the left. VE TB on the right, noticable difference. I know I measured them but can't find the picture, πŸ™. Turbo all prepped up with the fluid lines. One thing I didn't consider until I was bolting up was that I had made my manifold a pretty tight fit to the original turbo. The extra girth *almost* didn't make it! Got everything else back together and away it went. Back on the commuter routine. There was a pretty significant hiccup that didn't make the photo reel. My first drive to work I parked and came back out to a huge puddle of oil. Investigated at lunch and found that the band clamp i used for the turbo oil drain had cut through the drain tube. Letting most of it come right out. Qaurt low by the time to work. A trip to the auto store and some parking lot repairs got it sorted quick. All good so far after that. Even better the tune has been smoothing out and making for a really enjoyable ride. πŸ€—
  13. My thoughts when looking at it were to section out about 6" from the rockers/lower body that is rotted away anyway. That would correct the body aspect ratio to give it a much sportier look. Of course, I'm short so head room is less of a worry for me...
  14. Some video eavesdropping from other teams. 1:05:10 Sam coming up in the rear view through the banked corners. Cool to see how much gap is closed through that section. 52:06 Jeff closing in at the end of the straight then taking his favorite curbed corner 13:00:00 Time says 12:33PM so I believe this is just a few laps after Carter got in the car Sunday. Clean overtake at the end of the straight and then battling with a Rabbit off into the horizon. 16:50 Carter end of day Saturday based off the sun. 0:00 Saturday stint one, right behind Carter leaving the pit Sunday Finish
  15. My shots, filtered by what isn't basically repeats of the other guys. And then some professional on track shots
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