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Dirtyowlnumber4

All right guys I dun goofed

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So what is this? Has it anything to do with the intake?

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it comes out of the exhaust manifold it was some emission control thing. car ran fine without it covered, it just lets fumes in through the firewall.

 

but yeah it shoots air out. dirty ass air.

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Um, alright dude.....I am the self proclaimed ratsun redneck fixer from New Mexico and your edging in on my turf. :thumbup:

 

Now, take off the electric plate cover, take a pic of what it looks like without it and let me see if I got something I can send you or maybe figure out what is supposed to be there, cuz brother, that ain't OEM.

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^ bf08a6051037ee3232578bc8bca6ff59.gif

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Probably the exhaust supply for the EGR but is the intake sealed?

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A primary idle jet looks much like a secondary idle jet, except for the location of the fuel inlets on a DGV, did you put them in their original locations?

 

In your video, I don't see a cable for the cold start choke attached.  That upper butterfly being closed will allow the motor turn-over but soon after, it needs to be cracked open a bit.    Generally, carburetor fed engines don't benefit from pumping gas beyond setting the fast cam (pressing once when cold) all else is just fouling spark plugs.

 

A carburetor shouldn't need to be cleaned if the problem that you are experiencing is a lack of vacuum.  Notice how opening the throttle made the motor die in your video.

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There needs to be a plug for the exhaust manifold side of the EGR and one for the intake manifold side as well.  Typically an EGR valve works as a plug because the spring forces it to stay in the closed position.

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Better to have left the EGR on so there's no vacuum leak.

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Alright. I do believe my explanation still makes sense. You really should try.

 

Your carb is tuned to act like it has a choke, when there is no choke. That's why it starts without choke, then dies 20 seconds later. Re-tune your carb now that choke is installed. It wants you to release the choke to run smooth after 20 seconds or so, but you can't, because it is already released. AKA, you are rich, very rich. It'll start, but once warm it needs the air that it can't get because it is not tuned. Find a manual choke tuning guide and go through it.

 

That's my guess.

 

Also, that single gang cover is no longer to code. You can't modify a UL product. Better stay clear of electrical inspectors.

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Alright. I do believe my explanation still makes sense. You really should try.

 

Your carb is tuned to act like it has a choke, when there is no choke. That's why it starts without choke, then dies 20 seconds later. Re-tune your carb now that choke is installed. It wants you to release the choke to run smooth after 20 seconds or so, but you can't, because it is already released. AKA, you are rich, very rich. It'll start, but once warm it needs the air that it can't get because it is not tuned. Find a manual choke tuning guide and go through it.

 

That's my guess.

 

Also, that single gang cover is no longer to code. You can't modify a UL product. Better stay clear of electrical inspectors.

I've went trough the Weber tuning guide in the past and I got it running all right. I think the spark is too weak right now to get it tuned perfectly.

 

I looked at the choke before because I thought it was just a problem with starting, but the real spot of bother is when it is running. I could be at full chat and if I let off the throttle for a second without putting it in neutral the engine will shoot fuel into the carb and detonate it and the engine dies and I sit on the side of the road trying to restart it for 10 minutes and everyones watching me because they think I've been firing off a gun. When the choke is on it won't try to start at all, it will just revolve like the dizzy's unplugged.

 

The real reason I don't think it's a tuning problem is that it was running for about a month while I tried to fine tune it. It would always be better or worse than the day before but it was always reliable until one night I tried to start it and it wouldn't go. I hadn't done even any minor tuning since the day before. The tunings pretty rough right now anyway because I keep taking apart the carb and I can't tune it when I get it back on because it won't run. I just know where the screw was when it was running.

 

And being an electricians apprentice staying clear of inspectors is a good portion of my job hah.

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There needs to be a plug for the exhaust manifold side of the EGR and one for the intake manifold side as well.  Typically an EGR valve works as a plug because the spring forces it to stay in the closed position.

Better to have left the EGR on so there's no vacuum leak.

 

I can put the EGR back on for sure. I don't know where the intake side is but I've got all the other holes plugged well.

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A primary idle jet looks much like a secondary idle jet, except for the location of the fuel inlets on a DGV, did you put them in their original locations?

 

In your video, I don't see a cable for the cold start choke attached.  That upper butterfly being closed will allow the motor turn-over but soon after, it needs to be cracked open a bit.    Generally, carburetor fed engines don't benefit from pumping gas beyond setting the fast cam (pressing once when cold) all else is just fouling spark plugs.

 

A carburetor shouldn't need to be cleaned if the problem that you are experiencing is a lack of vacuum.  Notice how opening the throttle made the motor die in your video.

 

Yup I got them in the right places. I didn't know they were idle jets though.

 

I stopped connecting the choke because I am taking the carb off so often, and it won't start with the choke on. It definitely would before, I don't know whats up with it now. It would take a half second with the choke and like 2 seconds without.

 

I will put the EGR back on tomorow and plug up the little hose coming out of it, that is really the only vacuum leak I can imagine I had the shop seal the rest of it up with some nice looking plugs.

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Fuel tank vent. Did you fuck with your fuel tank, lines, or return? If your tank can't vent, your pump can't deliver.

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you even time this?

 

Buy a new weber.

 

 

saw the vid/ try pouring gas in from the top. see if it fires right away. if it does then the carb is fucked.

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Fuel tank vent. Did you fuck with your fuel tank, lines, or return? If your tank can't vent, your pump can't deliver.

only the hoses for the fuel evaporation thing. whenever i open the cap there's pressure in there. And if i take the fuel hose off the carb and crank it it will move like a gallon a minute.

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you even time this?

 

Buy a new weber.

 

 

saw the vid/ try pouring gas in from the top. see if it fires right away. if it does then the carb is fucked.

i timed it.

 

don't have money.

 

will try.

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All right so this morning I went out, took off my egr cover and put it back on, and the car is a lot better. started normally, can idle for like 10 minutes and I took it on a 10 mile drive, still broken but it only had to stop once.

 

I was recording when I first tried to start it in the morning, and I stood there recording it for like 10 minutes waiting for it to die and eventually it did. That dying its doing in the end is what it will do on the road when it stops working and exlodes and whatnot.

 

 

I wasn't able to pour gas down the carb to see if it would fire because it is starting right up today.

 

It is also difficult to ignore the fact that every time I try to seal that egr hole better it starts working better. Doesn't make any sense since I've run it for a decent amount of time with no over and then for a while with a really shoddy cover and it didn't make a difference. But it is hella sealed right now if not a little rigged and stuffs still broken though. Maybe indicates something..?

 

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The EGR wouldn't fit back on with the weber. In the pic on their website it looked like they were gonna send me a little seal for it but they didn't, so if anyone knows where to get one of those that would be cool.

 

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Don't want to read through the whole thing but is that a real weber? Or some knock of like empi?

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Don't want to read through the whole thing but is that a real weber? Or some knock of like empi?

yepper its real.

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I would work on making a very good EGR delete cover as part of a greater strategy to deal with potential vacuum leaks.  Fuel delivery, and air / fuel mix, are two other sets of issues.

 

I am assuming that the gang plate cover hole is on your intake manifold?  Time to fabricate.  I'd go with something thicker than the gang plate so that the fasteners can actually hold the profile.

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It's common for the hole under the EGR to carbon up and plug itself so yes you might have been able to drive with it off. But then it cleared itself and you have a massive vacuum leak. Always best to just leave the EGR in place and disconnect it so it doesn't work.

 

Gas tank...

There is never pressure in a gas tank. There's no where for pressure to come from. What happens is that as the gas level lowers a small vacuum forms and when you take the gas cap off air rushed IN. The gas cap is fully sealed and as gas is removed air should get back in to replace it from your vent line to the charcoal canister.

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Alright I made sure not to change anything from yesterday (it was working fine) and sure enough today it won't work at all. I poured some gas down the carb, didn't do anything.

 

I can't think of anything else that would cause such inconsistent operations, the ignition system is the only other thing I would look at but the stuff is all new. Took the distributor apart a a little bit, don't really know what I'm doing but the points were working fine nothing looked broken or dusty in there. Have been cleaning the spark plugs every day they are black makes sense since I've been cranking it for like an hour every day eh. Coil is new too. Spark plug wires as well.

 

It's common for the hole under the EGR to carbon up and plug itself so yes you might have been able to drive with it off. But then it cleared itself and you have a massive vacuum leak. Always best to just leave the EGR in place and disconnect it so it doesn't work.

 

Gas tank...

There is never pressure in a gas tank. There's no where for pressure to come from. What happens is that as the gas level lowers a small vacuum forms and when you take the gas cap off air rushed IN. The gas cap is fully sealed and as gas is removed air should get back in to replace it from your vent line to the charcoal canister.

The EGR won't go back on with the weber there unfortunately.

 

I don't know what is happening then I got water on my hand and put it over the cap and opened it and i could feel air coming out. And when I take the fuel hose off the carb it will spray fuel out like its under pressure. I tried uncorking the hoses that went to the canister didn't change anything I'l leave them open though.

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Leave the gas cap slightly loose and see if your problems go away. As to pressure build up in the tank where would it come from???? Only exhaust is under pressure.

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