L16 hesitating, quits and hard to restart

[datzenmike]

 

 

 

Nope, if the condenser(s) are disconnected it will not start.  The one working pair of condensers/points has to be connected.  And when I disconnect the condenser I simply pull the pig tail connector coming off the condenser which should not change whether the points open or close.

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's not right. The condenser has nothing to do with it running. It will run without one. You must be disconnecting the power to the points if it wont start. When you pull the condenser pigtail off you have to tighten the connection back up.

[banzai510(hainz)]

change the fuel filter in case dirt was plugging the idle jet.( this will only cause idle proplems)

 

I seen where I change the points and it dont run then put old back in and it runs then put the new back in and then it runs(connection proplems)

 

I had a issue with my condensor when I ran points it would cut out at higher rpm

 

I dont think the carb is the proplem unless you fucked it up.

[d.p]

Mike, I know you keep saying that without the condenser the truck will run but it simply does not.  All I do is loosen the screw that holds the pig tail and the wire from the condenser (which I assume is where the points gets it power from), remove the condenser wire and tighten the screw.  

 

Hainz, the problem shows (manifests) up at higher RPMs then it proceeds to spread across the entire power band, idle, low and high rpms.  The problem disappears after x amount of time with the truck sitting then shows back up again when I get it under load at higher RPMs.  So maybe it is the points or a loose connection but all of that will be replaced with the el dizzy.  I already changed the fuel filter and the carb has been on the truck for 2 months without issue.  

 

El dizzy will be here on Monday so I will swap that in and get back to it.  

[datzenmike]

Do you have an EI coil to go with it? If not, keep your ballast with your points coil.

 

 

This is the closest picture I could find. Ignore the word Pertronix and the  R and B letters.

 

On the matchbox module, the B terminal goes to the coil positive terminal and the module C terminal goes to the coil negative terminal.

 

Mike, I know you keep saying that without the condenser the truck will run but it simply does not.  All I do is loosen the screw that holds the pig tail and the wire from the condenser (which I assume is where the points gets it power from), remove the condenser wire and tighten the screw.  

 

 

 

El dizzy will be here on Monday so I will swap that in and get back to it.  

 

 

I do maintain this. It should run but does not. With luck this part of the problem will be removed with the EI swap although it won't explain why. 

 

 

Did you ever replace the coil? So much time was spent on other things. They can over heat and become intermittent. By the time you check for spark they can cool down and work again.

.

[banzai510(hainz)]

wiggle th dizzy side to side and see if alot of slop.(if slop is enough to open the points then its a worn dizzy)

 

dont matter now your getting a EI dizzy.

 

to make a EI dist work you get a 79 200sx coil or a MSD blaster coil and take out the ballast resisitor

or

You can use your current set up point coil and ballast

you just hook up B of the Module to the BLK/WHT wire going into the ballast so it gets the full 12/14volts

C of module goes to the - side coil

 

 

Ok what MIke posted is the same what I just wrote

[d.p]

Never replaced the coil and dizzy doesn't move.  

 

Getting el dizzy but not pertronix.   Actually have a spare pertronix dizzy that crash gave me but the rotor spins independent of the body, its weird.  

 

The one I have on the way looks like this: 

 

[racerx]

Not sure if you checked the coil to see if its good.

[d.p]

Not sure if you checked the coil to see if its good.

 

I didn't.  All I did was check how how it was when the problem manifested itself, it wasn't that hot.  Dunno how to test it? 

[racerx]

You have ohmeter? If yes, test lead to positive to negative, then tower to positive, forgot value but u can go on line. Basically, u checking primary and secondary.

[datzenmike]

 
This is a 'remote ignitor' EI and does not come with the matchbox module on it. If you get everything it should come with the box for mounting in the cab...
 

 
 
 
If this does not come with the distributor you can substitute a General Motors HEI module and wire it in....
 

 

I definitely advise getting the correct matching EI coil for this set up. Like a '78 or '79 200sx.  With the added output open your plug gap to 0.042"

[d.p]

Ok, yeah don't know if it comes with that.  I asked the seller though.  

 

This what I am looking for?  http://www.ebay.com/itm/321379120140 

 

Is the coil from a 200sx cylindrical like mine or a box like that one in your picture?  Web shows both kinds.  Is one better than the other? 

 

Also my engine noisy as hell lately so I checked the lash hot and cold and they were way out of spec (loose).  Like all of them were .013-015 hot and them some.  The shop that 'fixed' my chain tensioner supposedly set it but who knows what they set it to.  I adjusted them cold to spec and the motor is much quieter now.   Will check the hot tomorrow or the next day.

 

If anything this entire exercise will teach me a shit ton about L16s.

[banzai510(hainz)]

fuck the more complicated one to install

[d.p]

fuck the more complicated one to install

 

Lol tell me about it...I can't catch a break to save my life.  

 

I can't find a matchbox dizzy, well I can from Pacific Datsun but he wants $350 for it.  

[datzenmike]

 

 

Lol tell me about it...I can't catch a break to save my life.  
 
I can't find a matchbox dizzy, well I can from Pacific Datsun but he wants $350 for it.

 

$350 = Crook.

 

 

The coil is an exact match to your points coil, but built to handle the extra current drawn through it to make a stronger spark. A '78-'79 620 coil is also good as is the HL510, the 810, S110, even the Z series dual coils from a 720. I have a Z24 coil in my 710 right now that replaces the stock cracked EI one I had.

 

That picture is random and only to how the HEI unit. 

[d.p]

I know he is a crook and when I asked why it was so expensive all I got was crickets in return.

 

I can buy a coil/HEI unit but I thought I was getting matchbox dizzy but apparently that isn't the case.  Where can I find a matchbox dizzy? And I have a couple pedestals/timing plates from L16 motors.  Can I buy a matchbox dizzy that will work with the pedestal/timing plates I already have?  

 

Pep boys list the same coil part number for my 521 as it does for 79 200SX.  

[datzenmike]

 

You can make it work. May have to flip the plate and/or clock the spindle. Thought you couldn't find one.

If you can find an EI module you could probably make it work in place of that remote igniter... but the HEI module is so cheap >$15.

[racerx]

Before you buy these, check ur coil. Maybe you have a bad coil.

[d.p]

Mike, I found what I thought was-matchbox dizzy from a seller on here.  I also have the dual points dizzy off the spare L16 I have and one that crash sent (single point converted to pertronix).  I just ordered a new coil..will pick it up shortly and swap it out to see what it does.   '

 

Will buy a matchbox/timing/pedestal one if anyone is selling. 

[datzenmike]

The pedestals are more or less the same. You may have to clock the spindle or flip that small plate over to get your adjustment but it should work.

 

I'm curious about the coil too.

[wayno]

Just put the Pertronix setup in as long as it is good it will work just fine, they have been making them for a long time, if it was a crap product everyone on here would tell you.

I would also put a small CLEAR fuel filter in the fuel line just before/next to the carb inlet and then drive it, if it starts acting up I would shut the engine down immediately and check that filter for fuel, if no fuel you have a fuel delivery issue, I would then check every inch of the fuel line for kinks in the rubber hoses.

If that is not the issue(kinked line) I would then blow air thru the fuel line from the carb connection to the tank(remove fuel cap), listen for bubbles, then pour a very little amount of fuel down the carb and then start it and repeat until the fuel fills that clear fuel filter and the engine continues to run, if that fixes it I would consider that the fuel tank has rust flakes in it and you then will need to drop the fuel tank, clean it, and then put the most expensive tank liner in it you can buy.

I also would drive it without the fuel cap on it once, maybe the vent hole in the cap is plugged, you could also hear it if it sucks air in when you remove the cap immediately after it dies.

The thing about rust flakes plugging the pick up tube is that when it dies the fuel pump quits trying to suck fuel, the rust flakes fall off the end of the tube, you then have to get it started again which sometimes can take a while since you ran out of gas in the carb, once started the rust flakes if close will plug up the end of the tube again, that is why blowing air usually fixes it for a while as it blows the rust flakes away from the pick up tube.

[racerx]

1. Check coil, if bad.

 

2. If bad, replace coil or install pertron8x

[d.p]

I replaced the coil, only $10 so fuck it.  Drove around truck felt fine but again I didn't beat on it so who knows if it fixed the problem.  I got plans tonight so don't feel like getting stuck somewhere and being super bummed about it still having problems.  

 

Wayno pretty sure its getting gas as every time the problem occurs I would pop the carb top off and there would be gas in the bowl.  Also gas would be coming out the fuel line when I disconnect it from the carb (other end goes to fuel pump) as well as shooting into the carb when I punch the throttle. I figure if I wasn't getting gas I would see it.  I also have a clear filter and I see very little rust or flakes in it.  It seems to me to be heat related, like after a certain amount of time and heat the truck starts to die and act a fool...then it sits/cools down and eventually returns to normal.  

 

Can't use the pertronix because the rotor spins independently of the body, its weird but according to crash its no good anymore.  I actually tried to swap it in yesterday but the rotor was moving all over the place so I said fuck it put my old dizzy back in.  

 

Mike, this dizzy (for a 79 620) would work with one of my pedestal and timing plates?   https://www.stockwiseauto.com/a1-cardone-31-610-distributor?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt7nunuCY1gIVDotpCh3SqAgJEAQYASABEgKcCfD_BwE&fit_id=28813&Year=1979&Make=Datsun&Model=620&gsID=pxf374700f28813& 

 

[racerx]

So you did not ohm out the old one? Easy test, 2 min.done, I know ur frustrated, been there, but diagnose always.

[Crashtd420]

Ya i still don't get what happened there... that petronix and dizzy fired my motor up before I pulled my motor and did my rebuild....

I thought these dizzys were all about the same.... atleast the way they mounted.... I couldn't believe how much the rotor would move once mounted.

[racerx]

Ya i still don't get what happened there... that petronix and dizzy fired my motor up before I pulled my motor and did my rebuild....

I thought these dizzys were all about the same.... atleast the way they mounted.... I couldn't believe how much the rotor would move once mounted.

...u sure that rotor is for that particular distributor? It should be snug.