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So air is drawn in normally to replace the fumes drawn out of the crankcase by the PCV and into the intake to be burned, but under hard acceleration, excess combustion gasses that gets past the rings will over power the PCV, reverse direction and spewing blow by gasses into the engine bay from that filter on the catch can.  

 

If anything keeps your oil clean it's the slow certain removal of water, gas oil and combustion vapors by the PCV system that would normally condense and dilute the oil.

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So air is drawn in normally to replace the fumes drawn out of the crankcase by the PCV and into the intake to be burned, but under hard acceleration, excess combustion gasses that gets past the rings will over power the PCV, reverse direction and spewing blow by gasses into the engine bay from that filter on the catch can.  

 

If anything keeps your oil clean it's the slow certain removal of water, gas oil and combustion vapors by the PCV system that would normally condense and dilute the oil.

Correct, no mess in my engine bay, and I have the can mounted on the firewall.

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tried renting a timing light but the shop only sells em and they wanted 90$ soooo gonna look elsewhere. got Feelers though! I feel like i'm going to restore this engine, use it for maybe a year and then finances permitting I will KA24DE and matching tranny swap it to preserve the old school vintage parts. just cause I will want to keep such a limited item alive and well.

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harbor freight has most things cheap as fuck hahaha. So I need an impact driver to dismount my shocks/wheels so I took a break from that and was already painting today (remodeling my house) and decided to get at some rust spots and paint the truck. did before/during/after pics and they will be uploaded shortly. think I did half decent and what you see is not finished.

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Flywheel for the L28 is 225mm same as the truck but slightly lighter. If rebuilding you could bore to 87mm and use L28 flatttop pistons, the valves might be larger if rebuilding your head. Other than common bolts and fasteners nothing else fits.

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Flywheel for the L28 is 225mm same as the truck but slightly lighter. If rebuilding you could bore to 87mm and use L28 flatttop pistons, the valves might be larger if rebuilding your head. Other than common bolts and fasteners nothing else fits.

Had to check. looked like it was possible to make a franken engine out of the Z-car parts. still seems like a KA24DE is the way to go being both a power boost and a financially reasonable upgrade. that way I can put the L20B on a stand and preserve it.

 

anyone ever tried fitting a  VW 1.8L turbo from the Golf's from the 90's? i know its an odd mix but I've seen those engines hit over 1000HP...

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Update*

I got a new rear shock system so they match the front. KYB GAS-A-Just rear shocks.

new U-bolts.

and the best yet, an electronic ignition to get rid of the points system.

and new oil/filter

and new wire crimps and ring heads to fix my tach set up.

 

next parts set will be, new brake booster.

new valve cover gasket and possibly a new head gasket if I can get my hands on some Muratic acid to soak it in. otherwise I am in for a very long week of sanding and measurements

and Timing light.

 

between all that and a good flushing/cleaning and a solid tune up I believe this little truck will be ready to start its new life.

anything you guys think I'm missing as far as making it functional ride again?

If I can get enough extra funds I got my eyes on a push start from datsun dave and possibly a new fuse box to go with it. otherwise I just feel like I should get on de-rusting and giving the body some tlc.

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almost done with the rear shocks. just gotta figure out how I am going to cut the bent up old bolt to free my brace plate to mount the new shock in. only been working in the morning and night due to heat and now ash fall as northern Oregon has over 10,000 acres on fire near me. BUT! got a new garage! still need to wire it up but I'll pop a light in to take pics...

 

IMAG0465.jpg

IMAG0467.jpg

 

550 sq ft of new work space, got a barn with a workshop in it as well so this one will stay pretty clean. got water access inside so thinking of getting a vapor sandblaster and paint gun and doing some body work sometime next month or so.

 

any ideas on how to remove the bolt without having to go buy a cutter. maybe a cutting disk on my power drill?

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Oh daaaang!! Nice shop space.

thanks, working towards a good shop set up. i will only have this open for car stuff for a month or two, so I figured I'd focus on body work. next is to update the barn and get that workshop back up and running. and a car port. 

 

as for the 620, I am taking a sawzaw to my broken shock bolt in the morning and installing the new one provided everything goes well with cutting it. I need a vice clamp.

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rear shocks replaced and a much more proper height.

 

IMAG0469.jpg

IMAG0471.jpg

 

Although now my tuning is off today. letting it cool down then tuning some more. it chugs in idle, I think its just running lean?

Also, My turn signal makes my tach bounce... what did I do wrong? perhaps too many connectors on the coil?

Check ur spark plugs, if its whitish in color, then lean. But drive it first.

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