datzenmike Posted August 19, 2017 Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 So air is drawn in normally to replace the fumes drawn out of the crankcase by the PCV and into the intake to be burned, but under hard acceleration, excess combustion gasses that gets past the rings will over power the PCV, reverse direction and spewing blow by gasses into the engine bay from that filter on the catch can. If anything keeps your oil clean it's the slow certain removal of water, gas oil and combustion vapors by the PCV system that would normally condense and dilute the oil. 2 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted August 19, 2017 Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 So air is drawn in normally to replace the fumes drawn out of the crankcase by the PCV and into the intake to be burned, but under hard acceleration, excess combustion gasses that gets past the rings will over power the PCV, reverse direction and spewing blow by gasses into the engine bay from that filter on the catch can. If anything keeps your oil clean it's the slow certain removal of water, gas oil and combustion vapors by the PCV system that would normally condense and dilute the oil. Correct, no mess in my engine bay, and I have the can mounted on the firewall. Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 looking at a local bilstien set of 4 from a 2017 tacoma the front pair are struts. can coils fit the 620 front suspension? would the 620 work with that height? Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 tried renting a timing light but the shop only sells em and they wanted 90$ soooo gonna look elsewhere. got Feelers though! I feel like i'm going to restore this engine, use it for maybe a year and then finances permitting I will KA24DE and matching tranny swap it to preserve the old school vintage parts. just cause I will want to keep such a limited item alive and well. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 19, 2017 Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 Harbor freight has timing lights for cheap. Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 harbor freight has most things cheap as fuck hahaha. So I need an impact driver to dismount my shocks/wheels so I took a break from that and was already painting today (remodeling my house) and decided to get at some rust spots and paint the truck. did before/during/after pics and they will be uploaded shortly. think I did half decent and what you see is not finished. Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 this is when I started. 1 Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 and after hours of sanding by hand, here's the first protective coat. nothing fancy, but better. I ended up finishing both sides of the tailgate. that's just step one though. getting finer paint and bondo next. 1 Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Could one, put zcar engine pieces on a L20B M2 U95? if such info exists already, links are much appreciated. bought an new impact driver and light combo today. pretty stoked to crack into this rig! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Flywheel for the L28 is 225mm same as the truck but slightly lighter. If rebuilding you could bore to 87mm and use L28 flatttop pistons, the valves might be larger if rebuilding your head. Other than common bolts and fasteners nothing else fits. Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Flywheel for the L28 is 225mm same as the truck but slightly lighter. If rebuilding you could bore to 87mm and use L28 flatttop pistons, the valves might be larger if rebuilding your head. Other than common bolts and fasteners nothing else fits. Had to check. looked like it was possible to make a franken engine out of the Z-car parts. still seems like a KA24DE is the way to go being both a power boost and a financially reasonable upgrade. that way I can put the L20B on a stand and preserve it. anyone ever tried fitting a VW 1.8L turbo from the Golf's from the 90's? i know its an odd mix but I've seen those engines hit over 1000HP... Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2017 Update* I got a new rear shock system so they match the front. KYB GAS-A-Just rear shocks. new U-bolts. and the best yet, an electronic ignition to get rid of the points system. and new oil/filter and new wire crimps and ring heads to fix my tach set up. next parts set will be, new brake booster. new valve cover gasket and possibly a new head gasket if I can get my hands on some Muratic acid to soak it in. otherwise I am in for a very long week of sanding and measurements and Timing light. between all that and a good flushing/cleaning and a solid tune up I believe this little truck will be ready to start its new life. anything you guys think I'm missing as far as making it functional ride again? If I can get enough extra funds I got my eyes on a push start from datsun dave and possibly a new fuse box to go with it. otherwise I just feel like I should get on de-rusting and giving the body some tlc. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted August 24, 2017 Report Share Posted August 24, 2017 Always good to have a compression tester. Screw in type is better. 1 Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2017 Always good to have a compression tester. Screw in type is better. True, true. As expensive as it is, its really fun building up a tool collection. I need a plasma cutter too to collect spare body parts and cut out my problem areas and stick weld in new pieces. Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted August 24, 2017 Report Share Posted August 24, 2017 /me thinks datzenmike needs to move this thread to either project builds or 620 forum :thumbup: Keep up the good work, OP, I like what you're doing here ;) 1 Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 on that note I thought it may be better to not have all my issues complied into this thread so I made a new topic about my stock Datsun Tachometer not being hooked up and I ran wires through the firewall and await direction. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/72543-1976-datsun-620-stock-tachometer-disconnected/ Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted September 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2017 smells like upgrade....mmmmmm 2 Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted September 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 almost done with the rear shocks. just gotta figure out how I am going to cut the bent up old bolt to free my brace plate to mount the new shock in. only been working in the morning and night due to heat and now ash fall as northern Oregon has over 10,000 acres on fire near me. BUT! got a new garage! still need to wire it up but I'll pop a light in to take pics... 550 sq ft of new work space, got a barn with a workshop in it as well so this one will stay pretty clean. got water access inside so thinking of getting a vapor sandblaster and paint gun and doing some body work sometime next month or so. any ideas on how to remove the bolt without having to go buy a cutter. maybe a cutting disk on my power drill? 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted September 6, 2017 Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 Oh daaaang!! Nice shop space. Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted September 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 Oh daaaang!! Nice shop space. thanks, working towards a good shop set up. i will only have this open for car stuff for a month or two, so I figured I'd focus on body work. next is to update the barn and get that workshop back up and running. and a car port. as for the 620, I am taking a sawzaw to my broken shock bolt in the morning and installing the new one provided everything goes well with cutting it. I need a vice clamp. Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted September 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 rear shocks replaced and a much more proper height. Although now my tuning is off today. letting it cool down then tuning some more. it chugs in idle, I think its just running lean? Also, My turn signal makes my tach bounce... what did I do wrong? perhaps too many connectors on the coil? 1 Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 7, 2017 Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 rear shocks replaced and a much more proper height. Although now my tuning is off today. letting it cool down then tuning some more. it chugs in idle, I think its just running lean? Also, My turn signal makes my tach bounce... what did I do wrong? perhaps too many connectors on the coil? Check ur spark plugs, if its whitish in color, then lean. But drive it first. Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted September 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 Check ur spark plugs, if its whitish in color, then lean. But drive it first. Was gonna do that, and adjust carb, I know my distributor is timed right and my choke is set right. tune it, test it, then jack it up and readjust the height on my torsion bar to swap tires and test drive it. Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted September 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 UPDATE* adjusting the front end to level out the truck. these are my torsion bolts correct? ALSO lookie what I found.... fucking lowrider ass-hat PO... :poop: :sick: :poop: My poor exhaust! gonna have to cut out that chunk and learn to weld lol Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted September 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 which one of these am I supposed to loosen to release the torsion bar and lift the truck? this is on the other side of the torsion bar and makes the most sense. It wont budge so going to soak it. if its not the one to loosen welp, it will be clean! Quote Link to comment
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