Jump to content

New Member and First Time Datsun Owner


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 170
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Duel points would have 2 sets of those contacts that open and close....

Newb mistake I saw the two screws and was instantly like awe shit everyone says these are a bitch. I'll get the backside angle pic too. Either way it looks clean, straight and good to go to me, BUT I am an untrained eye. The next when the car is cool again ( was testing start up on multiple batteries)  I wanna take another crack at my carb tuning would it help to send climate temp stats or is the heat differences in tuning more referring to severe cases like Alaskan/Canada climate vs Arizona/New Mexico for example.

Link to comment

That thick top leaf on your springs needs to be on the bottom of the pack.

 

Steering toe is adjusted by loosening the lock nuts on either side of that center link under the oil pan. The ends are L&R thread so turning the cross link moves the tie rods out or in together.

 

It's a single point distributor. The points should be flat where they meet, arcing will erode them naturally. You can use a thin points file to correct them. As the points erode and the contact block on the cam wears the dwell and timing will be affected. So file or replace them and set the gap to about 0.022".

 

Now the ignition timing can be set.

Link to comment

That thick top leaf on your springs needs to be on the bottom of the pack.

 

Steering toe is adjusted by loosening the lock nuts on either side of that center link under the oil pan. The ends are L&R thread so turning the cross link moves the tie rods out or in together.

 

It's a single point distributor. The points should be flat where they meet, arcing will erode them naturally. You can use a thin points file to correct them. As the points erode and the contact block on the cam wears the dwell and timing will be affected. So file or replace them and set the gap to about 0.022".

 

Now the ignition timing can be set.

part 1. i figured as much basically just flipping the order the lowered leaf spring and mount is.

 

part 2. you mean the straight bar going across the width of my front end?

 

part 3. yeeeaaah that was clarified. going to check gap and take a pic.

Link to comment

Its a little more than a few and fine I'll update the link to direct image of the truck lol. Also followed my tach cables and the red wire straight up disappears. goes in the tube cover to organize your wiring and poof into electrical tape. I think based off the previous owners tendency to couple wires together into one wire that he tried tying it in with the black wire. but that doesn't make sense. he also did the electric fan all funky and has it tied into the fog light switch. sounds like time for me to buy some color coded wires.

 

oh yeah truck pics...

IMAG0376.jpg

 

50749.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment

Its a little more than a few and fine I'll update the link to direct image of the truck lol. Also followed my tach cables and the red wire straight up disappears. goes in the tube cover to organize your wiring and poof into electrical tape. I think based off the previous owners tendency to couple wires together into one wire that he tried tying it in with the black wire. but that doesn't make sense. he also did the electric fan all funky and has it tied into the fog light switch. sounds like time for me to buy some color coded wires.

 

oh yeah truck pics...

IMAG0376.jpg

 

50749.jpg

Link to comment

tank breather its a racing performance part to pull air and excess water/ watery oils from the engine to keep it smooth under high rpm/high demand conditions... I think.

 

02001a.gif

part# 02001 Dray Sump/Rear End Breather Tank Combo, inckudes Baffle and Panel Mount. (One ea.1/2" & 3/8" Female Pipe Fitting @ 180 Degree from each other and One 3/8" Female Pipe Fitting at bottom of Tank- includes PetCock and Element)

Link to comment

there appears to be a pcv or similar head on the tank. definitely the previous owners doing. still on week one of owning the truck.

long as I drain it shouldn't it somewhat help? tuning my carb now less shaky and I felt it go lean and sputter out so I had a starting point and adjusted the idle screw from there. still a slight chug over a purr but valve lash remains unseen and my Tach is broken. revvs smoother and no more black gassy gunk out the tailpipe. also might have just been from it sitting in a yard too long and collecting moisture. idk.

Link to comment

well it does a job its not just for looks. The applicability may be questionable, but engineers don't make parts that do nothing. now to see if I can fix my Tach to finer tune le engine.

I agree it does something but From what I've read they are more designed for high boost applications that are causing excessive blow by.... I think they are more designed to be between the crank case vent and pcv....

I always thought the intake was providing a vacuum drawing the gases from the crank case, and the fitting on top of the valve cover draws fresh air in whether connected to the air box or just the cone filter..

The way the previous owner set up it just seems under utilized...

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.