Crashtd420 Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Looks like single to me.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Duel points would have 2 sets of those contacts that open and close.... Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Take out the rotor then take a picture and post, looks single but Juana make sure. Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Duel points would have 2 sets of those contacts that open and close.... Newb mistake I saw the two screws and was instantly like awe shit everyone says these are a bitch. I'll get the backside angle pic too. Either way it looks clean, straight and good to go to me, BUT I am an untrained eye. The next when the car is cool again ( was testing start up on multiple batteries) I wanna take another crack at my carb tuning would it help to send climate temp stats or is the heat differences in tuning more referring to severe cases like Alaskan/Canada climate vs Arizona/New Mexico for example. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 That thick top leaf on your springs needs to be on the bottom of the pack. Steering toe is adjusted by loosening the lock nuts on either side of that center link under the oil pan. The ends are L&R thread so turning the cross link moves the tie rods out or in together. It's a single point distributor. The points should be flat where they meet, arcing will erode them naturally. You can use a thin points file to correct them. As the points erode and the contact block on the cam wears the dwell and timing will be affected. So file or replace them and set the gap to about 0.022". Now the ignition timing can be set. Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 so adjusting the points is just another feeler gauge job. even pressure distribution amongst the screws to make sure its actually flat and taking a feeler gauge to measure a 25 thousandths gap on the connector plates. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 To get a better idea, read up on it, watch YouTube, to get a much better idea, then practice. Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 That thick top leaf on your springs needs to be on the bottom of the pack. Steering toe is adjusted by loosening the lock nuts on either side of that center link under the oil pan. The ends are L&R thread so turning the cross link moves the tie rods out or in together. It's a single point distributor. The points should be flat where they meet, arcing will erode them naturally. You can use a thin points file to correct them. As the points erode and the contact block on the cam wears the dwell and timing will be affected. So file or replace them and set the gap to about 0.022". Now the ignition timing can be set. part 1. i figured as much basically just flipping the order the lowered leaf spring and mount is. part 2. you mean the straight bar going across the width of my front end? part 3. yeeeaaah that was clarified. going to check gap and take a pic. Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 To get a better idea, read up on it, watch YouTube, to get a much better idea, then practice. been re-watching them get changed and installed. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Just watch the point open up when u turn the crank pulley, you can do this with remote or by hand, much easier when you take out spark plugs. Point mechanism has to land on the line, then measure the gap. Quote Link to comment
heywier427 Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 I dont think this truck exists. A few pictures of the under carriage, and a carb dont convince me. :) 2 Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Its a little more than a few and fine I'll update the link to direct image of the truck lol. Also followed my tach cables and the red wire straight up disappears. goes in the tube cover to organize your wiring and poof into electrical tape. I think based off the previous owners tendency to couple wires together into one wire that he tried tying it in with the black wire. but that doesn't make sense. he also did the electric fan all funky and has it tied into the fog light switch. sounds like time for me to buy some color coded wires. oh yeah truck pics... 3 Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 the POS next to the truck is a rebuild/flip project. new front end body pieces coming in and putting a married trans and engine with 40k on em. then flip for truck money. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Its a little more than a few and fine I'll update the link to direct image of the truck lol. Also followed my tach cables and the red wire straight up disappears. goes in the tube cover to organize your wiring and poof into electrical tape. I think based off the previous owners tendency to couple wires together into one wire that he tried tying it in with the black wire. but that doesn't make sense. he also did the electric fan all funky and has it tied into the fog light switch. sounds like time for me to buy some color coded wires. oh yeah truck pics... Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Where's that blue hose from the valve cover going to ? Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 tank breather its a racing performance part to pull air and excess water/ watery oils from the engine to keep it smooth under high rpm/high demand conditions... I think. part# 02001 Dray Sump/Rear End Breather Tank Combo, inckudes Baffle and Panel Mount. (One ea.1/2" & 3/8" Female Pipe Fitting @ 180 Degree from each other and One 3/8" Female Pipe Fitting at bottom of Tank- includes PetCock and Element) Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Like a pcv? If that's the case, where's your pc hooked up to? Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 the pcv valve should be on the L joint out the valve cover. here's one in a Zcar minus the tank. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 That's not the pcv.... that's just the valve cover breather.... pcv should be screwed into your intake below the carb and connected to the crank case vent below... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 I always feel those catch can are plumbed wrong.... I am sure that's the previous owners doing ... 1 Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 there appears to be a pcv or similar head on the tank. definitely the previous owners doing. still on week one of owning the truck. long as I drain it shouldn't it somewhat help? tuning my carb now less shaky and I felt it go lean and sputter out so I had a starting point and adjusted the idle screw from there. still a slight chug over a purr but valve lash remains unseen and my Tach is broken. revvs smoother and no more black gassy gunk out the tailpipe. also might have just been from it sitting in a yard too long and collecting moisture. idk. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Because it looks cool. Yes, pcv is under my 32.36 weber. Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 well it does a job its not just for looks. The applicability may be questionable, but engineers don't make parts that do nothing. now to see if I can fix my Tach to finer tune le engine. Quote Link to comment
76Lil Hustler Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 stupid question... could one theoretically replace a auto wire with a speaker wire? 12 gauge that is. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 well it does a job its not just for looks. The applicability may be questionable, but engineers don't make parts that do nothing. now to see if I can fix my Tach to finer tune le engine. I agree it does something but From what I've read they are more designed for high boost applications that are causing excessive blow by.... I think they are more designed to be between the crank case vent and pcv.... I always thought the intake was providing a vacuum drawing the gases from the crank case, and the fitting on top of the valve cover draws fresh air in whether connected to the air box or just the cone filter.. The way the previous owner set up it just seems under utilized... Quote Link to comment
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