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New Member and First Time Datsun Owner


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Okay so got an update. My rear passenger strut was snapped at the bolt and was made to look functional by the guy who sold it to me. lucky I made it home at all. so questioning everything that's been done to the truck. the Tach is wired all sorts of stupid and isn't connected to any power source at all. in fact its across the engine bay from the coil. the Ovalcraft breather tank is probably only half set up. Wont it be dangerous to jack up the truck with a snapped strut? going for a shot in the dark here but hoping to appeal to the sellers reason and get 200 deducted from purchase price to accommodate new rear struts. The Tach can be cut way back to good undisturbed wiring and given the appropriate heads to attach to my coil, and my carb choke right?

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stupid question... could one theoretically replace a auto wire with a speaker wire?

 

12 gauge that is.

it's kind of ok .... depends on what your hooking up.... I'm not 100% sure the theory on it but I think it comes down to the number of strands of wire in the cable... speaker wire tends to have more strands of wire plus 2 wires in parallel then you have say a single multi strand cable and then you can get a 12gauge wire with just 1 strand.

 

I guess the real question is what are you trying to use it for?

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turned out I had 10 gauge wire and my tach needs 14. also followed all the tach wires and realized theres way excess wire and its looped to the wrong side of the engine bay.

what rear struts should I get planning on a normal height or up to a 2 inch lift. 

I have KYB Gas-a-just front struts and was looking into kyb monomax for the rear.

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You sure you have struts? I think your calling it the wrong thing.... I think i saw one in one of your pics.. they should just be regular shocks ...

Struts would have a spring with it...

Unless previous owner did a conversion

 

Tortion bars up front

Leaf springs in the rear..

4 shocks...

 

A stock shock will be fine, if your going back to stock height and even with a 1 or 2 inch drop.... I think only once you get down to 3 or 4 or more inches people start to look for shorter shocks....

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You sure you have struts? I think your calling it the wrong thing.... I think i saw one in one of your pics.. they should just be regular shocks ...

Struts would have a spring with it...

Unless previous owner did a conversion

 

Tortion bars up front

Leaf springs in the rear..

4 shocks...

 

A stock shock will be fine, if your going back to stock height and even with a 1 or 2 inch drop.... I think only once you get down to 3 or 4 or more inches people start to look for shorter shocks....

Yeah I had that backwards. Shocks under my truckbed is what I need.

 

stock is meaningless to me as performance parts are cheap and isnt getting a full KYB set gonna be more "in sync" if you will of an experience than grabbing stock ones?

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IMAG0396.jpg

Dangerous as all hell right? isn't that kinda a big deal to misrepresent that in a sale? from my end I feel relieved I made it home. but also feel I deserve a exchange to mitigate my loss by simply covering cost of new rear shocks to thereby make the truck in as advertised condition to begin with. granted this could all be wishful thinking, but "in a perfect world" doesn't that seem reasonable?

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A strut supports weight. A strut may incorporate a shock in it, as in a McPherson strut. A shock simply provides damping action. You have shocks. Air shock actually so the ride height can be adjusted up by adding air.

 

50764.jpg

 

The top thick shorter leaf. It needs to come off and be placed on the bottom of the spring pack. It's curved so match the curve to the rest of the springs. It looks upside down. Don't change or move the other leaves around only that top one.

 

 

IMAG0395.jpg

 

This is the cross rod. Loosen the nuts on each end and turn it. One way is tow in the other is toe out.

 

 

Catch cans on a street car just make more work and mess. They collect condensed water, gas and oil fumes and need to be emptied every now and then,... so what do you do? throw it on the ground? in the land fill??? A stock set up pipes it into the carb to be burned. Simple, clean, nothing to do..

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Yeah I had that backwards. Shocks under my truckbed is what I need.

 

stock is meaningless to me as performance parts are cheap and isnt getting a full KYB set gonna be more "in sync" if you will of an experience than grabbing stock ones?

When I said stock I wasn't saying oem factory correct....

Just stock in regards to fitment...

So ya I would buy those kyb too ...

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I disagree on your catch can for street use comment, all you gotta do is drain if there's anything in there and blow out the filter with each oil change, no hassle and no mess whatsoever, they have a drain, all you gotta do is install it properly.

I have doubts this is done right, the 2nd port hole is just blocked off.

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oh hello naw lol I am moving away from lowered cause I cant go places. My truck will be doing multi-state travel up to 10 times a year maybe more. its a lowrider now has terrible speeds, has a beat up body under the passenger door and the muffler.  This truck wont be a pretty princess. It'll be a champion. pics on the way. uno momento.

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I disagree on your catch can for street use comment, all you gotta do is drain if there's anything in there and blow out the filter with each oil change, no hassle and no mess whatsoever, they have a drain, all you gotta do is install it properly.

 

Yeah "all you gotta do is drain if there's anything in there and blow out the filter with each oil change". Well with the stock set up you don't have to do anything. And again my question is, where do you put the oily gas smelling contents you drain out? Recycle it? throw into the environment? the land fill? What about the fumes they vent out??? Catch cans are a joke and cause more problems and more work. They are for race tacks to catch oil blown out by an exploding engine and keep it off the track. They serve ZERO purpose on the street. Every car made vents the crankcase into the intake and they do just fine.

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Yeah "all you gotta do is drain if there's anything in there and blow out the filter with each oil change". Well with the stock set up you don't have to do anything. And again my question is, where do you put the oily gas smelling contents you drain out? Recycle it? throw into the environment? the land fill? What about the fumes they vent out??? Catch cans are a joke and cause more problems and more work. They are for race tacks to catch oil blown out by an exploding engine and keep it off the track. They serve ZERO purpose on the street. Every car made vents the crankcase into the intake and they do just fine.

Maybe you got a point, but my oil looks like it's been changed yesterday despite it having 1200 miles on it now, the carburator intake is clean as a whistle and air filter too, I haven't had to drain it yet, I tried but nothing came out of it, my engine bay smells no different from any other, so I don't understand the smell point....

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The stock engine is vented into the intake, either through the PCV or the valve cover hose to the carb, so no fumes or blow by escape while it is running. Unlike the catch can it is a closed system.

 

Your oil should be clean but the catch can does not keep it any cleaner. How could it possibly prevent oil from becoming dirty?

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