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captain720

Parts truck build/One wasn't enough

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When I go to re torque my head-bolts after the head gasket replacement do I take them out one at a time and then put them back? Or just check to make sure they are still at 59.5 ft lbs?

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Loosen them one at a time, but no need to remove them. Then retorque the same one you just loosened.

 

Two tips: do the retorque cold and take the radiator cap off to relieve any cooling system pressure. If there is cooling system pressure when doing a retorque, you run the risk of sneaking coolant past the head gasket and into the cylinders. It's remote, but it has happened. Better safe than sorry.

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Loosen them one at a time, but no need to remove them. Then retorque the same one you just loosened.

 

Two tips: do the retorque cold and take the radiator cap off to relieve any cooling system pressure. If there is cooling system pressure when doing a retorque, you run the risk of sneaking coolant past the head gasket and into the cylinders. It's remote, but it has happened. Better safe than sorry.

 

 

Thanks, wilco. I should drive it a bit, get to temp, then wait till cool and retourque. Then do that again in 200 miles or so?

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One retorque is enough.

 

Perfect, thanks.

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I have never been able to be sure that the tensioner is still compressed adequately by looking down in there past the blue tool with a flashlight. So your assertion that it is still tight makes me nervous. That you did not disassemble with it being at TDC makes me even more nervous. In your situation, I think I could easily screw something up and then have to go back in and take it all apart again. This situation just sounds dangerous to me.

 

I know that most people think the blue tool works well. I do not. That is to say, I have tried all kinds of things including the blue tool and, in each case, when it is all back together and the tool is removed, I can see the tensioner piston is not nearly tight against housing. (The shop manual calls for 0.00“ gap there. In other words, completely compressed.)

 

Having been in a somewhat similar situation, I found it was far better to set it to TDC, take off the cover, compress the tensioner with a tie wrap, and set everything back up in time and then button everything up. When you cut the tie wrap, you can see that you are at spec. Perfecto!

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I have never been able to be sure that the tensioner is still compressed adequately by looking down in there past the blue tool with a flashlight. So your assertion that it is still tight makes me nervous. That you did not disassemble with it being at TDC makes me even more nervous. In your situation, I think I could easily screw something up and then have to go back in and take it all apart again. This situation just sounds dangerous to me.

 

I know that most people think the blue tool works well. I do not. That is to say, I have tried all kinds of things including the blue tool and, in each case, when it is all back together and the tool is removed, I can see the tensioner piston is not nearly tight against housing. (The shop manual calls for 0.00“ gap there. In other words, completely compressed.)

 

Having been in a somewhat similar situation, I found it was far better to set it to TDC, take off the cover, compress the tensioner with a tie wrap, and set everything back up in time and then button everything up. When you cut the tie wrap, you can see that you are at spec. Perfecto!

 

Well you were right..........

 

 

Are these an interefance engine?

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I was driving along and it lost power and made a bad noise. Now I have no compression. :-( So I believe it met the same fate as my 4wds last engine. so my current plan is to buy the engine that just came into the wrecking yard (it has 150k on it) and then do a total rebuild on this one. So my current question is are these 85/86 Z24s non interfeirance engines?

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I don't think they are.

 

Unless your mechanical timing was off by at least 60 degrees, you wouldn't run if it was, or your chain snapped, interference should not be a concern.

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Picked up a wrecking yard engine for $300 that was "running rough" so I will be putting that on the stand over winter break and figuring it out. Then I will put it in this rig and take its engine all the way out and put new timing parts on it, then I may have a spare running engine which is something I wanted anyways.

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I will be spifin up spare engine soon (just got a used stand for $25 :-) ) and I was wondering if anyone knew the oil pan torque spec as I will be putting a new gasket on there.

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Snug. Likely 8-10 ft lbs.

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6mm bolts get about 6 ft/lb. Usually your 3/8" drive torque wrench won't read that low, but if you have a 1/4" drive inch pound torque wrench, just multiply the number by 12.

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It's easy to go too tight on oil pan bolts, I put the palm of my hand over the center of the socket connection to the ratchet wrench and I twist lightly going several times around the pan, I do not twist tightly, 6 foot pounds is easy to achieve, actually too easy to achieve.

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Perfect, I will use a tiny torque wrench. Also how tight should the bolts that go one the bell housing and connection to the engine?

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go on YOUTUBE and type valve adjustment Datsun.  This will give you a better idea or get a factory manual, good to have one anyway. Or search this site for valve adjust.  Supposed to be adjusted every 10K, per  miles.

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Factory SM can be had on olddatsuns.com

 

 

How To Rebuld Your Datsun L book can be had on Amazon for pretty cheap. Can even be bought for Kindle for less than paperback.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1931128030/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1512761604&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=datsun+book&dpPl=1&dpID=61XQ92jjQ1L&ref=plSrch

 

 

May even be able to find a free copy to DL somewhere on the web.

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I am doing the swap tomorrow. I have to engines and only 1 Distributor, can I just take the distributor from the one and put it in the other without much trouble?

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Got the motor in, got the Dizzy installed. Tomorrow I will put the last stuff on (manifolds/starter/add oil/reinstall radiator/alternator). Everything went OK, those tranny bolts can be a pain though.........

 

Also, changed the thread name to reflect the name of the truck. I bought it as a parts rig and ended up at least trying to save it. Was originally going to go with "Barracuda", because it is blue and Heart. But I called it parts truck once or twice and it really stuck so that's what it is.

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Motor runs........... yeah it is definitely a wrecking yard motor though, it seems pretty tired to me, going to adjust valve lash tomorrow and that should help. It sat for awhile I believe so it seems to be loosening up a bit and everything is smoother than it was when I initially started it. She is kind of hesitant, still have to get carb and timing dialed in. Only put a couple miles on it today (was in a bit of a rush). 

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On Ebay I can only find FSMs for 1981 720s? Would that work OK? I found some for later years, but they are super expensive.

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On Ebay I can only find FSMs for 1981 720s? Would that work OK? I found some for later years, but they are super expensive.

I have a PDF of the 86 FSM if you want it; send me PM

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I found a 1984 service manual in a used book store, it was not that expensive, although I live on the west coast where stuff like this is likely more common.

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There are important changes in 83. But also many are hosted online just do a search.

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