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Ev710

Newbie with a 710

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Just wanted to say hello to all the veteran 710 owners and fellow Ratsun pheens. I picked up my car, 1976 Datsun 710 Coupe, about 8 months ago and it's been a non stop struggle to find parts and endless search for answers...hope to touch base with you all. (Need to upload pics I know...that's my next step).

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Pinned on first page of General Discussion.... Photobucket how to make on line albums...

 

Most high wear items like ignition points, brake shoes and ball joints go to NAPA, Rock Auto or any good auto parts place. For everything else like a body part, you need to find a wrecking yard and salvage them from an old car. In some cases if you need enough parts it's cheaper to buy a complete wreck and strip it yourself. 

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Welcome! Can't wait to see the car.

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Looking forward to pics. Welcome to Ratsun.

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Thanks guys...started the Photobucket account and should have photos up by tomorrow. As of now, I'm pulling the car out of the body shop and trying to get her back on the streets asap. I gave the car a tune up and the l20b sounded good.

1. Bumpers - I bought the Japanese small bumper (front) and just sourced the rear. Don't have brackets...assuming I need to fab something. I'm thinking the old 'park bench' bumper brackets are useless.

2. Dual webers - looking to get a dual carb setup. I have the W58 head that has the extra hole on the intake for cooling purposes. Do I need a specific intake manifold or plug hole somehow?

3. I jumped the gun and bought 15x7 +25 SSRs at a good price. Now I'm thinking they won't fit. We will find out soon enough.

4. Time to lower her - Im thinking of going w 2" blocks in the rear and Z struts in the front with new springs.

5. Weatherstripping - any ideas for doors and trunk?

 

Any help, comments or criticism on the above is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

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1/ The bumper 'brackets' on the park bench bumpers are really gas filled shock absorbers. The body has 4 bolt holes each side that something could be bolted to on the back. The front has three but not as accessible.

 

 

2/ '75-'77 L20Bs used the U67 head. The intake and exhaust manifolds are bolted together and exhaust used to 'warm the intake. Trouble is it doesn't cool. Later '78 and up use the W58 head that goes back to the better liquid warmed and cooled intake used on the original L16/18. If using a W58 you need the L16/18 or the '78-'80 intake for this to work properly. Then you need the separate exhaust manifold also. If your U67 is working, the easiest thing is to leave it as it is.

 

3/ Always, always always know what rims will fit your car before buying them.

 

4/ zx or '81-'84 year Maxima struts are also quite good. The Maxima is based on the zx platform and they have huge calipers and vented rotors also, but one or two mm smaller diameter. You don't necessarily need new springs, you can use your 710 ones. If you want stiffer spring rate it can be worked out with grade school math and you can trim off a coil or so. It's simple just ask. The zx springs are way too wide to fit up into your 710 strut tower so you can trim the lower spring mounts off install your 710 spring and matching bottom mount and top hat and hold together with a 2" split collar. I did this myself and have an released spring rate, (stiffer) and adjustable ride height for under $25. All you need are some wrenches, 6" angle grinder and cut off disc.

 

Optionally... if the zx or Maxima strut is original and has it's stock oil filled strut tubes and damper inside, you can empty the watery thin hydraulic oil and substitute thicker viscosity motorcycle fork oil. This thicker oil is harder to push through the valving and will increase the dampening but retains the stock compression/rebound ratio. Can't get that with replaceable inserts. I also did this on my 710 and it's $17 for a liter of 20W Bellray fork oil.... enough to do 3 struts.

 

Rears, I used a 2" block and added a spare cut down 710 leaf added to the spring pack to stiffen the rear to match the front. Two inch lowering threw the driveshaft/axle angularity out producing an annoying low frequency vibration, so the rear side of the block needed to be shimmed up 1/8" to bring them back into compliance. Vibration... gone. 

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Those wheels should fit. You will need between a 1/4" or 1/2" spacer to fit the front struts, but the rear wheels won't need spacers. You can't fit a lower offset in the back anyway. I have 15x6.5 +14 wheels with 185/55/15 tires, and they slightly rub in the back of my 710 Hardtop ... so a 15x7 +25 and 195's might just fit, without rubbing.

 

Did you get 160j fenders? The JDM front bumper needs the different fenders and front valence .... Where did you find a rear bumper?

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Indy the Canadian Hardtop (maybe the US?) had a 'smile' style front and rear bumpers through July '74 but was attached to bumper shocks and stood out from the body. 

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The W58 was, I think, the only L head with round exhaust ports.

 

The U67 just needs two 3/8" holes drilled to use with the water cooled intakes. I did the swap from the joined intake/exhaust manifolds to the water cooled ones in my Wagon build or project thread. Used L16 exhaust and a modified '79 intake.

 

 

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Thanks guys! I don't have the 160j fenders but I did find the lower apron for the front bumper. I'm hoping that it can be modified somehow.

 

I'm currently pulling out all of the smog stuff and getting ready to do the dual carb setup. Man, this project started as a low budget hobby to keep me busy on the weekends. These parts are adding up! Debating if going with Mikuni 40s or Webers.

 

Thanks again

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Unless something has changed, the Cal Smog laws are '75 and older need a bi-annual inspection.  You might want to check up on that before you remove the smog stuff.  You said this was a '76 so you might have to keep it smog legal.  It would be nice if I was wrong on this..

 

 

Thanks guys! I don't have the 160j fenders but I did find the lower apron for the front bumper. I'm hoping that it can be modified somehow.

I'm currently pulling out all of the smog stuff and getting ready to do the dual carb setup. Man, this project started as a low budget hobby to keep me busy on the weekends. These parts are adding up! Debating if going with Mikuni 40s or Webers.

Thanks again

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Yup it needs the smog stuff...Cali laws suck. I didn't pass the smog test w the original equipment anyway. I'll need to take care of this every go around, when registration is up for renewal. Let's say I have a 'workaround' that's not cheap.

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'75 and newer vehicles, but I know you know what you mean.

 

'74 and older vehicles don't get tested but technically would have to pass a visual... you can't modify those either. Federal offense but very unlikely there would be a circumstance where a cop or who ever would be asking or looking. So you're pretty safe there. If caught street racing that wouldn't be good and they might want to spank you.

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The p.o. should have smogged it prior to sale.

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Hello Gents...have one question regarding difference bt 710 and 160j.  I've searched the threads without success.  I purchased the 160J jap spec smiley bumpers (for the front and rear) AND the 160j valance (from the guy in Mexico) .  I realized that the front bumper wont fit without the jap spec 160J fenders.  Similarly, the 160J valence wont fit on the 710 fenders.  This I did find in the threads after i drove my bodyshop guy crazy.  

 

So my question is this:  can the 710 fender(s) be modified to fit this bumper properly OR do I need to scrap the front bumper idea?  The 160J fenders are hard to find but found some guy who wants to sell me some for a crazy price.  What do you guys think?

 

Also...I need the 160J SSS grille!  lol.  I bought one and it got shipped to me in about 300 pieces.

 

Thanks! 

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