rinigado Posted February 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2017 with my 620 (not 521 so could be wrong) big metal washer thing went behind the oil seal inside the axle cage away from the bearing. mechanic confirmed and i watched as it came out. both sides was like this this was in the front hub, but similar idea I guess, just taking up the gap between seal and edge of the bearing Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 5, 2017 Report Share Posted February 5, 2017 If it fit right all good.... some one obviously left mine out years ago.... I had a lot of small pieces missing on my truck... Quote Link to comment
rinigado Posted February 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2017 I'll be repacking the other side and will take a picture so you can see what it is, assuming there's one in there. Quote Link to comment
rinigado Posted February 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 The rain we've had exposed a leaky seal around the windshield. The rubber is a little old and dried out looking in spots. Is there a good way to repair without replacing the seal, or is it better just to get on with it and install a new seal? p.s. is a Thailand / ebay seal (they're cheap) as effective as a more expensive seal? They're like $18 coming from Bangkok and about $60 coming from US resellers. How much difference in quality is there? Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Stick with US sellers and replace do it right. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Is the leak in a lower corner of the windshield? The metal seam there is probably rusted out. Kind of common to a 521. I'll see if I can find a thread. MKlotz70 did a repair to his 521 with the same leak you have. Start with this; it's in there somewhere... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/8175-mklotz70-project-mend/page-1 Quote Link to comment
rinigado Posted February 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Is the leak in a lower corner of the windshield? The metal seam there is probably rusted out. Kind of common to a 521. I'll see if I can find a thread. MKlotz70 did a repair to his 521 with the same leak you have. Start with this; it's in there somewhere... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/8175-mklotz70-project-mend/page-1 The water is dripping just above the steering wheel. There's rust in the pillar on the side that also needs to be addressed, so might as well listen to you guys and do it right and patch some metal at the same time. In addition to the advice from mrbigtanker, I found some old threads and it seems like most of the thai windshield seals weren't so highly regarded, but also saw some saying the precision stuff wasn't awesome. I did try the local Nissan dealer and the oem part is nla based on the part number in the 521 parts manual. So, still need to decide which reseller to order from. 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 If I can find one I will get you hooked up. Quote Link to comment
rinigado Posted February 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 If I can find one I will get you hooked up. all you guys on here are awesome..thanks! I'm still searching too. I spent some time getting other bits and pieces done. I flushed the engine again, but took the drain bolt out of the block this time and used some compressed air while flushing to knock any crud loose. The first bit of water did come out brown and cloudy, but there wasn't really that much crap that came out. At least I don't need to wonder if heat issues are due to crud collecting in the engine. Also pulled the water pump off just to see what state it was in. I'm not the only person to touch the water pump relatively recently it seems. The pump has a stamped metal impeller, and the beginnings of some clumps of rust forming, but not in terrible shape. I cleaned up the mating surfaces, put on a new gasket, and put it back on. I might still try to order something with a cast impeller to have on hand, since it seems they're getting hard to find too! I went for a drive today, and as I drove, the car started getting hot, and the brakes started tightening up (same thing happened yesterday a bit, but much less pronounced; maybe because today was mostly putting around in city traffic). I thought maybe the rotten exhaust was laying against the brake cable, but everything looked ok. I couldn't figure what it was until I searched and found someone posting on classiczcars that explained the problem. My brake pedal didn't have enough play, so the piston never fully released from the master cylinder...driving through town, every tap on the brakes made the situation worse until the engine started getting hot and there was significant resistance in the brakes. Turns out it was something dumb I did a few days ago; I was missing the little button that contacts the brake switch so put a bolt in there instead, and didn't adjust play in the pedal properly. I pulled the bolt out and stuck some cardboard just as a surface to push the brake pedal switch, and life was good again. Luckily I was close to a Costco, so pulled in there and jury rigged my new brake switch bumper. Turns out Costco mechanics will loan you a wrench if you're friendly, and if you let them hold your membership card. I have a hunk of delrin that I'll use to turn a little bumper out of in the next few days. And while looking at the state of things under the car, I noticed that my clutch slave return spring has a fancy aftermarket zip tie holding it in position. The slave cylinder looks mostly right, except it looks like there's no tab where I'd attach the spring. Stuff seems to work well enough at the moment but my biggest problem with the current solution is that I'll likely lose the spring somewhere down the road if that zip tie lets go. Also the splined end of the rear section of drive shaft seems to have lots of splined surface still exposed just before it goes into the yoke..is that typical? You guys have dealt with old datsun drive trains much more than I have so I thought I'd ask! also installed a set of KYB gas a just shocks. The old shocks weren't completely shot, but they weren't far off. The truck's riding much better with the kyb's! Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 That is fine, there is lots of shaft inside, if it was an issue the truck would likely vibrate like crazy. You probably don't even need the spring, but if your worried, find another spring and connect it to the one that is there for a really long spring between the two of them and deletye the zip tie. It sure looks oily down there. Quote Link to comment
rinigado Posted February 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 It sure looks oily down there. yeah, agreed..I cleaned up the top of the motor about a weekend or two back to see what's leaking and what's not, but need to to the same underneath and see where all the oil is coming out. Good tip about the additional spring too! Quote Link to comment
rinigado Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 a new problem (maybe) showed itself.. the battery making sizzling noises. Voltage when off is just over 12 volts, and a bit over 13.5 volts after running (ran for about 10 minutes with headlights on). Maybe just a battery getting old? It's a costco battery, no idea how old it is. The battery is damp on top generally, so assuming its somehow slowly leaking. I didn't do the regulator test in the L16 fsm yet, running at higher rpms and measuring from alternator A terminal (fig EE-63). I'll check that tomorrow (had no time to deal with it tonight). Quote Link to comment
rinigado Posted February 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 I got some new shoes I'll clean them up some this weekend hopefully, then swap the tires from the old wheels. I also ended up with a new battery yesterday and I'll be swapping the old chargings bits for a 90 amp maxima alternator. I was hoping to put off exhaust until I got some other work done, but in the trip to pick up the battery, my old exhaust decided to part ways with me. Straight pipes are loud! I'll be copying some of DanielC's work that he posted replacing the exhaust once some bends from in from mandrel-bends.com; Quote Link to comment
kelowg Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Slave spring, mine is hooked into bleeder screw. Quote Link to comment
rinigado Posted February 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Slave spring, mine is hooked into bleeder screw. so there's more than one way to hack a solution; I feel less special! at least all the oil leaking from my motor is keeping the zip tie moist and supple :P Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 I bought a proper 521 slave from RockAuto, CENTRIC brand, that had the spring eyelet on it. Quote Link to comment
rinigado Posted February 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 I bought a proper 521 slave from RockAuto, CENTRIC brand, that had the spring eyelet on it. the po apparently had the clutch master take a shit on him shortly before he sold the truck, so he replaced the clutch master, then had to replace the slave after that as well. If it wasn't basically new and it were in need of an update, I'd do exactly the same; it looks like all the ones listed by rockauto have the spring perch. But I'll likey steal one of the ideas here and hook the spring to something more solid, or to another spring that's hooked to something more solid. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 I use the more modern 720 type slaves that don't have a spring without any issues. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Replace zip tie with wire? Plumber's tape? Chain? Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 the po apparently had the clutch master take a shit on him shortly before he sold the truck, so he replaced the clutch master, then had to replace the slave after that as well. If it wasn't basically new and it were in need of an update, I'd do exactly the same; it looks like all the ones listed by rockauto have the spring perch. But I'll likey steal one of the ideas here and hook the spring to something more solid, or to another spring that's hooked to something more solid. I got a dorman from RockAuto a week or so ago and it came with the spring holder. $20 and nothing to worry about. And seeing how wet your slave area is with oil makes me feel better about how much less wet mine is. Any idea where yours is leaking? Quote Link to comment
rinigado Posted February 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 I got a dorman from RockAuto a week or so ago and it came with the spring holder. $20 and nothing to worry about. And seeing how wet your slave area is with oil makes me feel better about how much less wet mine is. Any idea where yours is leaking? dunno yet where all the oil is coming from. still need to get under there and clean things up and try to find the mouth of the mighty river. We're supposed to get a massive rain storm here today and into tomorrow; once that's done I'll hopefully spend some time under the truck seeing what's what. It's wet across a wide area, from up around the ahem, fram, oil filter to the oil pressure switch all the way back to my slave cylinder. So, maybe a couple of places are a problem. 1 Quote Link to comment
rinigado Posted February 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 got some time this afternoon to start on exhaust. I was going to order from Columbia River Mandrel Bends, but found a place down here on socal called Performance Tube Bending in Irwindale that has a good stock of mandrel bends at good prices, so drove over there on Friday and picked up a handful of bends. There have been a few LOUD backfires. Better tune this truck up to cut down on backfires I guess! one stud joining exhaust manifold to exhaust collector was replaced with something that had a nut on both sides. As soon as I got the threads loose, the bolt/stud shifted sideways. Turns out someone in the past drilled a hole and a half. The metal off to one side of the hold is fairly thin now. There's enough material there to still hold a bolt, but not ideal. The stud on the bottom/middle of the flange started out well enough, but tightend up after a few turns, and got that soft feeling halfway through a turn. So, one drilled out hole that's a mess, and one broken stud still stuck in the end of the manifold. Ugh. The third stud also felt pretty tight after removing the nut about halfway and after the other two, I might just be paranoid, but the stud didn't look straight to me when under the truck. I soaked the shit out of these with pb blaster, but didn't use heat. I also doused all the other manifold bolds in pb blaster before wrapping up, in case I'm pulling the manifold off tomorrow. So, 2 things that aren't good on the current exhaust manifold. Would it be better to drill out the stud, drill oversize and use bolts? Get that ragged hold welded and re-tap holes? shop for another manifold? 1 Quote Link to comment
rinigado Posted February 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 so, got some time today to get back at the truck. I pulled the exhaust manifold off and also found that a bracket that mounts from the back of the AC compressor over to the block, which was fastened via one of the manifold bolts, looks to have broken off the nut and some length of the stud it was fastened to. Probably from vibration over years of use. There's a lot of weight hanging off the side of the head, with the smog pump attached to the ac compressor, attached to various points including this manifold stud. I'm thinking of removing smog parts (pump, hoses, etc) to lighten/clean things up and simplify the space around the engine. bracket holding ac compressor goes over to the motor like this: and this stud is a bit shorter than it should be: Looking in the parts manual, there are 3 separate part numbers for manifold studs for drawing 1C, all for m8x1.25 studs (manifold yoke, manifold and manifold slinger parts). Is there any difference to be aware of between these part numbers? Also, the intake was held on by bolts on my head, where the parts manual shows studs in drawing 1C. If I'm getting some replacement stud(s), seems like it'd be simple to just replace the bolts with fresh studs at that time. Is it possible bolts were originally used there, or someone replaced studs at some point? 1 Quote Link to comment
rinigado Posted September 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 It's been a while since I got time to work on the 521, but finally getting back to it. Last time I looked, the exhaust had given up the ghost, so I figured before I pull the motor to redo gaskets and seals, I'd sort out exhaust issues. I gave up looking for a stock manifold (I know..rust/lasts forever/quiet/awesomer) and drove over to top end performance to pick up a shorty header. Simple! except for the torsion rods. crap! Not wanting to give up on my 200 dollar investment, I printed a handful of snap-together plastic tube sections (2" diameter, 3" CLR) and mocked up what I'd need to get around the torsion bars. I also had to cut a bit off the collector section mostly it ended up being 3 sections of 67 degree bends pieced together (with one extra inch of straight tube thrown in to drop the bottom flange a bit lower for clearance) cuts were done in a little band saw, with a cutting guide copied from icengineworks design tacked together, it looked like this it fits, and I can even snake it down into place without disconnecting anything else next up, I made a down (more horizontal than down) pipe with a flex joint, and a fancy v-band clamp to connect up to the header here it is in place under the truck I should have bought two v band clamps, but didn't really think that through, so had to make up a pair of 2 bolt flanges to hook up to the rest of the exhaust tube. I worked backwards from whatever gasket would fit 2" exhaust and was available at my nearby laps used a couple chunks of scrap 1/2" steel (could have gone thinner, but that's what was around) 2" hole getting made and then a couple of bolt holes sanded and ready to use like this one side I left the tube a little shy inside the flange, and on the other mating piece I let the tube protrude a bit. Easier to hold it in place until I get a bolt through this way. bolted up: this piece runs across the truck and back to the muffler needed some hangers, so made up some parts to use a set of Jegs hi temp snap grommets with grommet connecting to a little bent bracket through the original exhaust hanger points on the frame and back by the tailpipe last section of pipe up and over the axle need to hit most of it with some hi temp paint, but otherwise, it's done 4 Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 27, 2017 Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 Nice job! 1 Quote Link to comment
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