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About rinigado

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  1. rinigado

    POST Craigslist eBay ads here...

    yowza 78 280z auto - $37500 https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/d/pristine-1978-datsun-280zog/6629885579.html
  2. rinigado

    Flush or Recessed Broken Bolt in Aluminum Removal

    stack some small spot welds w mig (or tig) until it's tall enough to weld a nut on. Then hit w penetrating oil. The heat shocks things loose. I wiggle it back and forth when I feel resistance once I get the nut on and start turning it out w a wrench, rather than try to keep turning in one direction; let's the oil work in a little bit I think. if it's flush, then just stack the nut on and weld in the middle.
  3. rinigado

    POST Craigslist eBay ads here...

    Close ratio 5 speed tranny - $2000 (Yucaipa) https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/d/close-ratio-5-speed-tranny/6623269340.html what's a whole beater 280zx cost?
  4. rinigado

    Decklid racks.

    someone down this way has a CL ad for a '77 810 that shows a rack installed
  5. rinigado

    521 brake drums and shoes?

    I bought some dura brake drums a while back for my front wheels from rockauto..they fit ok. 16 bucks each, was about the same as what the guy wanted to turn the old drums. installed straight out of the box.
  6. rinigado

    POST Craigslist eBay ads here...

    they know what they have
  7. rinigado

    FRAM vs. NAPA (Wix) comparison

    Mike said someone should chop these things up like once a year..some guy on youtube just checked again: different year, same fram
  8. rinigado

    new member, first post.

    As for the rear breaks can anyone comment on the placement of the bottom smallest spring holding tension on the shoes? Not sure if it's hooked in the right spot. the reference material we have doesn't show it clearly. I want to say there's a hole on the rear plate of the brake where the short end of that little return spring (one end of the spring has a hook that's longer, one end is shorter). I didn't stretch that spring between holes on the 2 shoes. I'll see if I have a picture.
  9. rinigado

    My island turquoise 521

    roller bearing seems like overkill for my slow old truck, but that's a good idea about spending the buck or two to replace the bushing while everything's apart. btw did you do anything to prep the por15 surface before top coat (scuff it? primer? por15 tie coat)?
  10. rinigado

    My island turquoise 521

    got around to pulling the motor this weekend, so that I can go through and replace gaskets, clean up the engine bay, and hopefully start to reduce the size of the oil slick on my driveway. Any of the bolts holding the transmission and motor in place were the easiest bolts to remove from the truck so far, so I guess someone was in there sometime more recently than 1971. When I pulled the oil pan off, I see that the pan is painted on the inside. Mostly the paints in good shape except closer to the gasket sealing surface. Hopefully this stuff never flakes off? and it looks like someone did someone did some balancing (grinding) of connecting rods and crank, like this: or this: Is any of that done at the factory, or afterwards? The engine has a lots of old oily crud on it, and some extra grimy spots like right where timing cover would meet up with the head: the back/bottom was also pretty oily; for sure pan gasket has some bad spots, but there's also oil in the bottom of the transmission bellhousing and since the motor's out I'll put rear main seal for the extra few bucks. Generally, other than fixing any oil leaks, I also want to clean and paint the motor, and clean/paint some rusty areas on the truck before putting things back together. I'm thinking por15 the block and then top coat with engine enamel. Passenger side of the block is mostly old paint and oil, but driver's side of the block is mostly surface rust, so hoping por15 as a base might work out.
  11. rinigado

    Connecting my tach properly!?!?

    ground somewhere there's a ground (a bolt/screw in the firewall, under the dash?). 12v from some accessory, just like the radio does; turns on and off with the key. signal wire just run another chunk of wire through the firewall to the coil.
  12. rinigado

    Just got a Datsun 521 :)

    and if you replace the brake cylinder, make sure you adjust rod length such that there's a small amount of slack in the connection from rod/clevis to pedal (i.e. make sure rod fully retracts from the cylinder when the pedal isn't pushed). When I picked up my 521, this wasn't the case and over the course of driving several miles, each tap on the brakes left just a bit of pressure still in the brake system which built up over time.
  13. rinigado

    My island turquoise 521

    I want to have it exit more under the reverse light, so that I can fit bumperettes, but I ran out of bends to get that done. Sticking straight out until I reroute it.
  14. rinigado

    My island turquoise 521

    It's been a while since I got time to work on the 521, but finally getting back to it. Last time I looked, the exhaust had given up the ghost, so I figured before I pull the motor to redo gaskets and seals, I'd sort out exhaust issues. I gave up looking for a stock manifold (I know..rust/lasts forever/quiet/awesomer) and drove over to top end performance to pick up a shorty header. Simple! except for the torsion rods. crap! Not wanting to give up on my 200 dollar investment, I printed a handful of snap-together plastic tube sections (2" diameter, 3" CLR) and mocked up what I'd need to get around the torsion bars. I also had to cut a bit off the collector section mostly it ended up being 3 sections of 67 degree bends pieced together (with one extra inch of straight tube thrown in to drop the bottom flange a bit lower for clearance) cuts were done in a little band saw, with a cutting guide copied from icengineworks design tacked together, it looked like this it fits, and I can even snake it down into place without disconnecting anything else next up, I made a down (more horizontal than down) pipe with a flex joint, and a fancy v-band clamp to connect up to the header here it is in place under the truck I should have bought two v band clamps, but didn't really think that through, so had to make up a pair of 2 bolt flanges to hook up to the rest of the exhaust tube. I worked backwards from whatever gasket would fit 2" exhaust and was available at my nearby laps used a couple chunks of scrap 1/2" steel (could have gone thinner, but that's what was around) 2" hole getting made and then a couple of bolt holes sanded and ready to use like this one side I left the tube a little shy inside the flange, and on the other mating piece I let the tube protrude a bit. Easier to hold it in place until I get a bolt through this way. bolted up: this piece runs across the truck and back to the muffler needed some hangers, so made up some parts to use a set of Jegs hi temp snap grommets with grommet connecting to a little bent bracket through the original exhaust hanger points on the frame and back by the tailpipe last section of pipe up and over the axle need to hit most of it with some hi temp paint, but otherwise, it's done
  15. rinigado

    wobbly teeth on el dizzy..bad?

    thanks guys for the responses. This one was bought online from rockauto, so I couldn't check it in store. It'll be back to rockauto for replacement.

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