SteadFast Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 I guess it is time to start a build thread. A) So I can keep track of everything I’ve done, and B) So I can leverage the knowledge of the community! History: I’ve owned two S2000’s (among a lot of other cars), both AP1’s. So the F20C is nothing new to me. About 4 years ago I started an Exomotive Exocet. For the past 3 years I’ve driven, and tailored the Exocet into what I wanted it to be. I just recently sold it to get funds to buy a house. If you care to view that build thread it can be found here: Because I can’t leave well enough alone, and because I love projects I’ve bought a Datsun 510 that needed some love (and was pretty cheap). It currently isn’t running, but it does have a ‘heart of gold’. The car has been around the block, meaning under the owner from yesteryear once had a F22C in it. The car was then stripped and sold to someone else. That person then installed a F20C swap and then abandoned the project. The swap was performed by T3 (Techno Toy Tuning), who is a well known Datsun Tuner/Parts Manufacture. The swap was done correctly, and I understand that the person that has done the swap has done a few F20C swaps in Datsuns and AE86’s. Now that brings us to present day. I’ve sense altered the header to clear the steering box. The header then runs to a muffler that is in the rear part of the passenger seat, and side exits on the drivers side. What the car needs: New fuel system. A fuel cell, pump, filter, and lines. All safety related items replaced; seats, harness, steering wheel/hub, new front suspension A new radiator, either custom, or making a s2000 radiator work Custom driveshaft Clutch lines, and brake lines Some sort of intake Lights; headlights, and turn signals Wiring altered Some sort of interior revamp; will likely start with lizard skin sound and heat control, and then go from there. I’m sure I’m missing many things, but I’ll cover that as I move through the process! Anyways, I look forward to posting a lot and gaining knowledge along the way. I’ve already determined some issues that I’ll likely post about soon. Thanks for reading! 4 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 It would appear most of the hard work is already done. Welcome! Cool dime. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 Poly trans mount????? wtf? Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 Nothin wrong with a poly tranny mount 3 Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted November 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 Agreed, many aftermarket cars use poly tranny mounts. 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 So very nice car. Love the Honda transplant also. Quote Link to comment
Noflers Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 Those Honda engines look much better when they are mounted longitudinal. Nice car! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 Everything is wrong with poly mounts. Too stiff and transmit vibration. Why not make them out of aluminum? Owner will get tired of the this and switch to rubber mount. You watch. Quote Link to comment
DaBlist Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 Everything is wrong with poly mounts. Too stiff and transmit vibration. Why not make them out of aluminum? Owner will get tired of the this and switch to rubber mount. You watch. We get that you hate aftermarket Moving on 8 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted November 10, 2016 Report Share Posted November 10, 2016 Everything is wrong with poly mounts. Too stiff and transmit vibration. Why not make them out of aluminum? Owner will get tired of the this and switch to rubber mount. You watch. No mike it's not. I'm running one as well and it's the best thing I did. Your a purest I get it. Let the custom guys do what they want. Don't be a hater. Can't we all just get along. 4 Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted November 10, 2016 Report Share Posted November 10, 2016 Welcom to the forum, and looking forward to seeing your dime on the go. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted November 10, 2016 Report Share Posted November 10, 2016 I see a whole lot of "because racecar" and I like it. 2 Quote Link to comment
crazee1 Posted November 10, 2016 Report Share Posted November 10, 2016 I am the "owner from yesteryear" If you want to e-mail me at steve at hamannco dot com I can forward you what few pictures I have saved of it. I am not on this forum often Steve Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted November 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 Thank Steve. I found the pictures of the 510 posted on photobucket. I'll reach out shortly. Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted November 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 This has to be the most ridiculous ECU (Kpro) install ever. Had to pull the motor because removing the oil pan isn't possible because of the motor mounts/bar. Good news is, I can give her a new clutch/flywheel. Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted November 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 Also started working on the ECU A-connector and C101 connector harness: There isn't much needed, but should be fairly simple. I plan on using this as a relay/fuse board/switch panel: 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 Very nice. Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted November 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2016 F20C's are notorious for oil starvation at hard constant cornering. Because I have to pull the oil pan anyways to install stuff for Hondata Kpro, I plan on adding one of these: The Moroso oil tray has trap doors that prevent oil from sloshing around under hard corning. This should fix that issue. Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted November 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 It was time to think about the fuel system. I was originally going to do a fuel safe, I even ordered one. The thought of it being close to the rear bumper made me worried about being rear ended. He is what I was planning on doing: I then decided to add a Aeromotive Phantom fuel pump setup to the original fuel tank. I first cleaned the inside of the tank with some POR-15 metal prep. For the tank being 45 years old, it was in great shape. I then went to work cutting and altering the setup for my application. I had a few extra moments to cleanup some of the wiring. Here is the aftermath: To do before the engine goes back in: 1)pressure wash the whole car inside and out 2)run the fuel lines Once that is completed, I'll install the pan insert. Then the motor and tranny go back in! 1 Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted November 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 Question for everyone. Because I'd like to be able to service my motor/tranny easily I'd like to do something like this (borrowed from Crude Engineering): The bar is removable and if I did the same thing would allow me to easily remove the engine/tranny in minutes. Would there be a downside to this? Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted December 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 Well my new bolt finally showed up, and I was able to get the tray welded to oil pan. Oil pan is back on, and the exhaust cam trigger wheel is installed. Tomorrow I will install the new clutch and resurfaced flywheel and put the heart back in the beast. Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted December 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 All that work for these three things: I also cut the front radiator support out (will have it so I can bolt it back in) to allow the motor/tranny to go in/out as one unit. The motor/tranny practically fell into the car! And the heart is back in the beast and ready for Kpro: 4 Quote Link to comment
Stoney Posted December 4, 2016 Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 On a car of this age, the radiator support is just that, a support for the radiator, but in newer cars it does act as part of the cars structural integrity, the lower cross bar ties the front end together on these. However in saying that though, i'm sure it still does play a part in front end alignment, also it keeps bonnet catch secure, headlights from flopping about and so on, but theres no reason why a couple of nutserts on either side with a panel that bolts in the centre wont work perfectly fine. It's also illegal here in Australia to have that piece removable. I tube framed the front end of my Silvia (S13) drift car, for a few reasons that included neater intercooler routing, inner tub removal for more clearance at lock, easier engine fitting/removal, but mainly because it had front end damage and nothing lined up. I love this engine/car combo! Only thing that could top it in an N/A form would be a custom SR22VE setup, but that blows the cost out of the realm from normal humans. Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted December 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Started working on the fuel lines last night. I plan to rivnut everything in place, as I like it a lot more than screws. For the feed line I'm going with 8AN lines, and the return will be 6AN lines (should give me plenty of fuel for future boost needs). All hoses and fittings are from Vibrant. I also found these things. They are awesome for installing fittings. No more bloody fingertips!: Last but no least I started to do a layout of the electronics board. It will be minimal and will hosue Kpro, fuse/relay panel, two additional relays for turns and fan, and a terminal strip. This will be mounted to a piece of carbon fiber. Fuel lines should be done this weekend minus two stupid fittings I forgot, which I just ordered this morning. 2 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Looks good Quote Link to comment
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