rbastedo Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 This morning I went out to do a little work on two of my cars and saw a puddle under one. A15 motor, fluid leaking out under the water pump. This indicates a that I need to replace the pump, right? Any gotcha's I should know about, or is the straightforward? This is my 1st and one and only A15 motor or anything like it, thus I ask. Thanks! :blink: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 Is the pump shaft loose or does it wobble at all? On the underside of the pump shaft there is usually a hole. If water is leaking out of it or there is evidence of water then the internal bearing seal is gone. Only a mater of time till it leaves you stranded. Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 This morning I went out to do a little work on two of my cars and saw a puddle under one. A15 motor, fluid leaking out under the water pump.This indicates a that I need to replace the pump, right? Any gotcha's I should know about, or is the straightforward? This is my 1st and one and only A15 motor or anything like it, thus I ask. Thanks! :blink: Nissan offers water pump rebuild kits if you can't find a replacement water pump. Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 Well, you didn't say what year/model vehicle the engine is in or came from nor where you're located (HINT-HINT), so I searched NapaOnline and RockAuto.com for a water pump for a 1980 210 w/ an A15. Prices range from $18-$32 depending on whether you want new or remanufactured. Quote Link to comment
rbastedo Posted October 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 Heh - thanks. First thing I did was to call NAPA and see if they could get me a water pump for a 1980 B210 Deluxe. They will have it for me tomorrow. This is the A15 in my 78 MG Midget. :lol: Quote Link to comment
rbastedo Posted October 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 ppeters914, ah I see you are up there in Lake Forest Park... I'm in Snoqualmie. This motor is fantastic in my 78 Midget - I wish I had the 5 speed instead of the 4 but all in all I'm very happy with the power & torque from this engine. I ordered the pump from NAPA - it should be here at noon today. Quote Link to comment
Mike Phillips Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 On the underside of the pump shaft there is usually a hole. I think this is referred to as the Weep Hole ;) Quote Link to comment
rbastedo Posted October 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 Seems a bit overactive at the moment - quite a bit of fluid has drained out already. I went and got the new pump at NAPA a little while ago so I'll get out there and replace it today. Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 The only thing I was going to add on this is, I always try to source Japanese parts for this kind of stuff. The quality when compared to regular parts store items is unbelievable. I picked up a Japanese made water pump for my 620's L20b at Discount Import Parts in Portland for $35 the other day. Much better part than a cheapo reman.. I have also bought Japanese parts at Napa, Baxter's, etc by requesting a New pump instead of rebuilt. My .02 Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 The quality when compared to regular parts store items is unbelievable. i also now look for cast vanes VS stamped. Quote Link to comment
rbastedo Posted October 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 I put the new pump on the engine, really great install job if I do say so myself... Then I noticed the fan pulley doesn't fit. Too small to go over the center and the bolt pattern is too narrow. What can I do now? I guess getting a different fan pulley to fit is out of the question? Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 Well, you need the pulley that matches the pump you got. What was the pump for? You probably got a A12 or maybe an early A14 pump, OR the engine had a different one on it and you put the A15 one on. There are a couple different A-series pumps that fit the engine but the flange is different. Quote Link to comment
rbastedo Posted October 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 The guy at NAPA said that diameter bolt pattern - 1.97" on center - was for a 79 B210 Deluxe and I had asked for one to fit the 80. He ordered the right one and said to bring the other one back for a swap. I explained I had installed it and there was permatex on it etc - he said "no problem, bring it back". I love NAPA. Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 Well, you didn't say what year/model vehicle the engine is in or came from nor where you're located (HINT-HINT), so I searched NapaOnline and RockAuto.com for a water pump for a 1980 210 w/ an A15. Prices range from $18-$32 depending on whether you want new or remanufactured. I put the new pump on the engine, really great install job if I do say so myself...Then I noticed the fan pulley doesn't fit. Too small to go over the center and the bolt pattern is too narrow. What can I do now? I guess getting a different fan pulley to fit is out of the question? Well, you need the pulley that matches the pump you got. What was the pump for? You probably got a A12 or maybe an early A14 pump, OR the engine had a different one on it and you put the A15 one on. There are a couple different A-series pumps that fit the engine but the flange is different. The guy at NAPA said that diameter bolt pattern - 1.97" on center - was for a 79 B210 Deluxe and I had asked for one to fit the 80. I only used a 1980 B210 to see about general availability. According to the Wiki, the A15 was produced from 1979 through 1998, and came in the Nissan Sunny B310 ("Datsun 210") and Nissan Cherry F10 ("Datsun F10") in the US. You would need to order the water pump for your particular year/model engine and/or swap pulleys. I'd suggest taking your old pump in to Napa. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 Use a dry gasket only. Permatex is the last resort for damaged surfaces. I hate pulling oil pans off and finding bits of that shit stuck to the pickup screen or rads with chunks blocking the tubes. It has it's uses, but is over used by backyard mechanics. (not saying you are):D Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 Yeah, only use Permatex if you're selling the car. :D I like to use a little bit of grease to hold the gasket in place. Quote Link to comment
rbastedo Posted October 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 heh - after doing enough of these things on these 30 - 50 year old cars I've gotten really tired of leaks. That being said it probably shouldn't be the first thing I reach for. I think I must be getting old. ;) Yes, I took the old one in to NAPA and they ordered the right one and when I bring the wrong one in they will gladly exchange it for the correct pump. Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 I just noticed....you have a MGC-GT? Those are pretty rare, right? Quote Link to comment
rbastedo Posted October 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 Hi Pete, Yes I do, I bought it in 1985 in Anchorage and I repaired it to the point where I could drive it down the Al-Can to Seattle. It now rests in my shed in the back yard where it has been for nearly 20 years. I have been accumulating parts for the eventual restoration. Quote Link to comment
rbastedo Posted October 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 NAPA said the new pump they got for me is for the 79 B210 Deluxe. I got the new pump installed and she runs great again. An associated issue seems the thermostat I put in there a year ago isn't working very well. It takes forever to warm the engine up in the morning, like the thermostat isn't all the way closed. Is there a really good one I could get that would work right for sure? The one I got was just from the local auto parts place (Schucks) - its a 180F unit. I tested it in warm water before installing it so I know it worked then. I would really like to get some heat from my heater in the mornings and this issue of the engine not warming up above 160F seems to be a clue. Ideas? Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 NAPA said the new pump they got for me is for the 79 B210 Deluxe.I got the new pump installed and she runs great again. An associated issue seems the thermostat I put in there a year ago isn't working very well. It takes forever to warm the engine up in the morning, like the thermostat isn't all the way closed. Is there a really good one I could get that would work right for sure? The one I got was just from the local auto parts place (Schucks) - its a 180F unit. I tested it in warm water before installing it so I know it worked then. I would really like to get some heat from my heater in the mornings and this issue of the engine not warming up above 160F seems to be a clue. Ideas? Lately all the 180 degree thermostats I have tested [with an accurate thermometer] don't open until 195 degrees. They are shut tight at 180. I bought a 160 degree, guess what, it opens at 180 and my engine loves it! Try a 160 degree, most MOPARS used them. Quote Link to comment
rbastedo Posted October 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 Thanks Mike. I gotta get some heat in the early morning commute!! Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 Heat 'n' wipers.....gotta have 'em in the Pacific NW. :( Wipers are my top priority right now. Quote Link to comment
rbastedo Posted October 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 There was a manual shutoff valve at the rear of the engine bay by the heater box, so the heater hose comes out the back of the motor and went into the valve then from the valve to the input of the heater. I never use the valve, instead in the summer when I want less heat I just disconnect both lines from the heater and put them together with an inline connection. So - since the thing can only sit there and be a potential problem and will never be used by me anyway I removed it and just put the hose from the back of the motor directly to the input side of the heater. Guess what? I had a little heat on my way to work this morning for the first time in a while! I don't know if that thing was constricting the flow or if maybe this was just a fluke. But it was nice! :) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 17, 2008 Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 make sure the heater valve is open all the way. Sometimes the wire puller doesnt get it quit open Run a 190 or hotter deg stat if you want hotter if the valve is open run New anti freeze every couple years to preserve the front cover from cavitation holes Quote Link to comment
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