djwarp Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 I was wondering if any one knows the process of hooking up an electric fuel pump i been hearing that it has to be connected to the oil pressure sensor? and besides the pump what I’m i going to need to make it work? 1 Quote Link to comment
EastBay521 Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Maybe make a build thread so you don't have to start new threads for each question you have? 2 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 I was wondering if any one knows the process of hooking up an electric fuel pump i been hearing that it has to be connected to the oil pressure sensor? and besides the pump what I’m i going to need to make it work? Not really necessary for the OP switch to kill the pump, race cars YES. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 You only need to mount an inline pump as low and as close to the fuel tank as possible. It should be powered from a fuse that is turned on and off with the ignition. Other Nissans that use an electric pump usually have a relay that requires an electrical connection to the oil pressure sender and the alternator. The relay can only be on if the oil pressure is up and the oil warning light is off. Also the alternator must be charging. WHY? Well in the event of an accident, the engine stops running, there is no oil pressure or charge and the fuel pump shuts off so there is reduced chance of a fuel fed fire. 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 If this is a basically stock 521, you do not need an electric fuel pump.. If you are having fuel delivery problems, clean your fuel tank. If the 45 year old gas tank is dirty, you will just plug up the electric fuel pump. The stock mechanical fuel pump will pump about a quart a minute at 1,000 engine RPM. If it does not, suspect the fuel lines, or crud in the gas tank collecting around the fuel pickup. A quick test for crud in the tank collecting around the fuel pick up is to have the tank at least half full, take the cap off the filler neck, and blow air back from the fuel filter into the gas tank. This will dislodge the crud, for a while. You still need to clean the fuel tank. Replace the fuel filter also. I think they are still available at Nissan dealer. 4 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Ever the sensible post. 1 Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Get a fuel filter from napa they are clear so you can see any debris inside. Not like this where you have to cut it open to see anything. 1 Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Found it. The picture napa gives is for a white one but they are clear. 1 Quote Link to comment
djwarp Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Found it. The picture napa gives is for a white one but they are clear. i have a clear one hooked up already 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Replace that type of filter every 12 months/12,000 miles. The flow can be impeded even if you dont see crud in it. Or test it. If 3/4 quart or .75 liter pumps through at idle in one minute then its good. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Was asked... why an electric pump? What's wrong with what you have? Sometimes it's just an easy adjustment or fix. 1 Quote Link to comment
djwarp Posted March 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Was asked... why an electric pump? What's wrong with what you have? Sometimes it's just an easy adjustment or fix. i wanted to change it because i feel the pump is not delivering fuel to the carb i have to keep steady pressure on the gas pedal for like 3 mins when i turn it on if i take it off it will shut off. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Haja, that's not caused by the fuel pump. The choke is not adjusted right. Adjust it with engine cold so that choke closes 100%. Then it will start and run without holding your foot on the accelerator. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Famous old Japanese truck problem. Pull gas tank and take it to a radiator shop that cleans gas tanks. Before installing clean tank remove all old rubber gas hoses and use aerosol carb cleaner spraying it through the metal lines in the reverse direction the gas flows. Do this until what comes out is clean. If you need use a paper towel wrapped over the end of the steel tubing with a twist tie or a rubber band to hold the paper towel on. If the steel lines are real dirty plug the lowest end and fill the line with carb cleaner. leave sit over night and repeat the process the next day. Replace all old rubber fuel hose. Buy extra fuel filters and keep them and a screw driver in the truck in case a fuel filter plugs up to the point the the runs crappy or will not run. Check your fuel filter often. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Also a famous old American truck problem ... 1 Quote Link to comment
djwarp Posted March 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 So i went out today to adjust the carb it seems that the throttle plates are open all the time when i close them by hand and try to start the truck it starts right up .. any idea on how to adjust to get them to close ? 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Post a picture of your carb please. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 The '70-'71 521 had a manual choke, you don't say what year yous is. If this is the case pull the choke knob out on the dash while holding the gas down. This sets the choke. Now start normally. If you have the '72 with electric choke, looks like this... When cold, the wire coil inside contracts and closes the choke plate ready for starting. Once started the choke heater warms the coil, it expands and unwinds, opening the choke plate. Loosen the three screws and rotate the choke heater counter clockwise to add more choke. If the choke plate does not turn, remove the choke heater and make sure that J shaped hook on the end of the coil is connected to the choke shaft. Quote Link to comment
djwarp Posted March 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Sorry about that i have a 72 and it seems like i don’t have a wire going into that so if i was to make one where is good place to wire it from? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 A weber. Any switched source from the ignition. It will likely have been rotated to the off position so you will have to turn it t get the choke on. 1 Quote Link to comment
djwarp Posted March 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 A weber. Any switched source from the ignition. It will likely have been rotated to the off position so you will have to turn it t get the choke on. I got it done i ran it from the distributor coil i took it for a run it has way more balls now thanks appreciate it. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 kinda hooky to take it from there whats wrong getting a stock fuel pump? 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 The coil is a perfect place to take it from. Has never caused any problems for me. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Only problem with the coil is it's power is run through a ballast resistor. It's about 8 volts not 12-14. Warm up will be longer. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Yes. Using a Datsun EI distributor & coil will solve that problem. 1 Quote Link to comment
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