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Aluminum Valve Cover for Z24?


TheEddie

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1.  Would someone put up a pic or link to an image of the aluminum piece?

2.  Why is the steel version of interest?

 

My thoughts are that the aluminum version can be potentially polished for added visuals--I'm assuming the steel version can painted or chromed or coated or something, likewise for visual effect?  Or is there a mechanical reason?

 

Eddie

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1.  Would someone put up a pic or link to an image of the aluminum piece?

 

Polished...

 

79.JPG

 

Powdercoated...

 

Z22PowderCoat3.jpg

 

 

2.  Why is the steel version of interest?

 

To me, because it's smoother. Gives an overall cleaner look (IMO). It doesn't have the ribs or letters. 

 

IMG_1272.jpg

 

 

My thoughts are that the aluminum version can be potentially polished for added visuals--I'm assuming the steel version can painted or chromed or coated or something, likewise for visual effect?  

 

Exactly. Would love to do one in chrome...

 

 

Or is there a mechanical reason?

 

None whatsoever.  :rofl:

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The benefits of the cast aluminum one is that it can be polished, bead blasted, and / or powder coated for better appearance, also if the aluminum is thick enough, it helps quiet down the valvetrain a little.

 

The steel one can also be powder coated or polished and chromed for better appearance, but the aluminum one will always look better in most cases.

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I like that red powder coated one... one thing you could do after powder coating is to mill off the powder coat that's over the lettering and / or the ribs then clear powder coat to give it a really cool machined appearance... the other nice thing about the aluminum that I didn't mention was that it don't have all those tabs for the plug wires like the steel one does, they can be carefully cut off the steel one tho if desired.

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You gotta use the cork gasket one because of the groove on the bottom of the z22 valve cover. It has a slight shallow groove that goes along the sides of it. the z22 gasket is thinner and sadly cork.

 

The z24 valve cover has a deep groove that goes around the whole bottom of the valve cover that the rubber gasket goes into. Hence why the z24 valve cover gasket won't work on the z22 valve cover. The z24 rubber gasket is a little thick cause the vc has grooves for it to go into. I haven't actually compared it, lol, but I'm going off what I remember when replacing my z24 gasket and noticed the z22 vc wasn't the same looking. But you can tell in the pics datsunfreak posted that there's a difference around both valve covers.

 

I just bought my z22 vc from my local pick-a-part for a whopping $5.50. Took me forever to finally get one and still don't know how I'm gonna clean it up. Either polish or powder coat.

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  • 3 weeks later...

All federal Z20E and S motors had (4 four) plug heads until '81 when they changed to 8 plug.

All California Z20E and S motors were 8 plug heads

All Canadian '80 and '81 Z20E and S motors had 4 plug heads

 

All Z22E or S heads were 8 plug heads.

 

Upper left plug (exhaust) is missing. The four plug head dizzy is a matchbox that will fit the L series so If you see one of these motors it's worth getting one.

IMG_0380.jpg

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In regards to cork vs. rubber. I think cork is superior to rubber. Cork...if cared for properly will last 4 YEARS and YEARS. Clean flanges well, make sure not distorted around bolt holes. Coat one side with permatex#2(thin coat) non hardening and smear clean grease on the other. Use a "stubby" ratchet or nut driver and just seat the bolts enough so they wont rattle out(repeated tightening/overtightening will over squeeze gasket and distort flanges). Drop of blue loctite good measure on all fasteners!! If u need 2 dissasemble the grease covered side will release easily. DO NOT USE SILICONE!! :w00t: 

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