Upgrading my amp, not sure about the alternator

[datzenmike]

i agree with datzenmike im running the 60 amp alternator with a 2200 watt series capacitor and 1100 watt amp pushin 2 10s on my 84 720 and the alternator is slowly dieing been hearing a whine coming form it lately. anyone know which alt will fit with minimal modifications other than the pulley really wanting to upgrade it, plan on adding a push bumper and fog lights sometime so will need the extra power

.

Most new ones have the serpentine belt. The D21 trucks still have the Vee belt pulley.

[elmerfudpucker]

First thing, if your amp melts carpet then you have it wired wrong. I think I have a pretty strong system, digital audiphile series X-Tants with wood grain panels, a 600.1 and a 400.4   :D Main part, big battery, deep cycle IS NOT :no:  the battery you need, AGM is better and you can parallel them without diodes, ;) then an alternator, but main part is bigger wire, :ph34r: properly done. 4 gauge on a 1k system is BS!   :poop: way too small, 0 gauge is better from the battery to the fuse blocks, and YOU MUST fuse the main line within 18" from the battery to keep the fuse/breaker at it's proper setting. On the amp the power and the ground must be the same size wire and use bigger speaker wire so the amp doesn't fight the resistance on the wire to the subs. Also wire the sub's coils correctly, not all amps can be bridged and handle the sub wired in parallel both. In car audio, bigger wire will make the best difference, DONT BE A CHEAP BASTERD!

But on another note, sound deadening the cab will give you the best improvement in sound, ask anyone who sat in my truck!  :thumbup: What ever you do, dont half @ss the wire, homie discount does not cover electrical fires! :bye:  so wire it right or find someone to do it. HINT: if their shit is sliding around the trunk, you probably don't want them working on your ride. And stay away from the amp wire kits at swap meets, the case is fat but the wire is not correct, 4gauge shell with an 8 guage wire most of the time. Your wire should be heavy and good quality, a weak point in most systems. :hmm:

 

If you want a peek  :w00t:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/18069-my-lil-mule/

 

lets see some pics of battery area, firewall where the wire passes thru, and the amp wires and I will get back to you. One thing I have always loved is my music to be loud but mostly clear! :hyper:

[blackwolf]

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Most new ones have the serpentine belt. The D21 trucks still have the Vee belt pulley.

yea i ive see that on here but the highest amperage ive found is 95 and with 1100 watts pulling i think it will still be pushing the alt. hard especially if i add lights and upgrade my headlights buddy of mine is retrofitting projectors with the 35 watt or 55 watt HIDs so was kinda wanting 110 amp minimum 

[thisismatt]

I guess my post went unnoticed...  Maybe Honda alternators are just that much superior to Nissan's.

[kelowg]

Z store has one 125 amp

[datzenmike]

yea i ive see that on here but the highest amperage ive found is 95 and with 1100 watts pulling i think it will still be pushing the alt. hard especially if i add lights and upgrade my headlights buddy of mine is retrofitting projectors with the 35 watt or 55 watt HIDs so was kinda wanting 110 amp minimum 

.

HIDs draw less power for the same light.

[blackwolf]

I guess my post went unnoticed...  Maybe Honda alternators are just that much superior to Nissan's.

lol naa i saw your post but it was mostly greek to me

[Doctoraudio]

I agree!
Big wires, is the key.

You should be trying to get a voltage drop of less than 1%.
Big wire is the key.
I have seen two car fires from stuff not being supplied the right amounts of current, wire and volts.

 

First thing, if your amp melts carpet then you have it wired wrong. I think I have a pretty strong system, digital audiphile series X-Tants with wood grain panels, a 600.1 and a 400.4   :D Main part, big battery, deep cycle IS NOT :no:  the battery you need, AGM is better and you can parallel them without diodes, ;) then an alternator, but main part is bigger wire, :ph34r: properly done. 4 gauge on a 1k system is BS!   :poop: way too small, 0 gauge is better from the battery to the fuse blocks, and YOU MUST fuse the main line within 18" from the battery to keep the fuse/breaker at it's proper setting. On the amp the power and the ground must be the same size wire and use bigger speaker wire so the amp doesn't fight the resistance on the wire to the subs. Also wire the sub's coils correctly, not all amps can be bridged and handle the sub wired in parallel both. In car audio, bigger wire will make the best difference, DONT BE A CHEAP BASTERD!

But on another note, sound deadening the cab will give you the best improvement in sound, ask anyone who sat in my truck!  :thumbup: What ever you do, dont half @ss the wire, homie discount does not cover electrical fires! :bye:  so wire it right or find someone to do it. HINT: if their shit is sliding around the trunk, you probably don't want them working on your ride. And stay away from the amp wire kits at swap meets, the case is fat but the wire is not correct, 4gauge shell with an 8 guage wire most of the time. Your wire should be heavy and good quality, a weak point in most systems. :hmm:

 

If you want a peek  :w00t:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/18069-my-lil-mule/

 

lets see some pics of battery area, firewall where the wire passes thru, and the amp wires and I will get back to you. One thing I have always loved is my music to be loud but mostly clear! :hyper:

 

 

[dr.feltersnatch]

How often will you be at max watts though? If its turned up to 11 from key on to key off your fucked. If you cruise with it low and bump it occasionally you will probably be ok

[datzenmike]

Don't forget the rated output is just the output. There will be efficiency losses in the amplifier too. To make 1,000 watts you will need more to start with. Eventually you will only be able to drive in the daytime and then only in the summer because you can't use the lights or heater. Get a bigger alternator!!!

[MikeRL411]

Let's not forget one important detail!  The so called 1000 Watt units are usually quoting the peak output.  Reality is closer to 500 Watt average or realistically [allowing for some Rock Music, Rap is CRAP] 707 Watts [RMS].  Bigger alternator and the biggest Amp Hour capacity battery you can cram under the hood or in the remote location [you did use welding cable for this, right] and an RV or Marine battery compartment with drain to the unsuspecting world, the battery will overflow one or more days, [invest in a jug of distilled water] and you just might missing being AAA's frequent caller of the month.  I wish that you will not be subject to all of this gloom, but be prepared in any case. 

 

Bobby Burns "The best laid plans of mice and men gang aft agley."

[elmerfudpucker]

True MikeRL411, When I sold equipment, our competitor was talking smack about the quality of our gear. :sneaky:  I pulled a couple of the competitor's amps Performance, Audioban, other cheapos, and open them up, next to ours Memphis, Zapco, Xtant. Their POS amps are all heatsink with 1K label and a little 300 watt amp motherboard that takes a 1/4 of the area! :rofl:  And our good ones, the amp footprint was smaller and the heatsink is filled with coils and caps. :devil: The boss made me take it down after a bit of discussion with the competitors and they agreed to knock it off with apologies. :baby: Another bit to add to KingRat's info, check the dampening factor of the amp, that is how fast the amp can stop the sub from moving (control/torque) higher number is better.  Main part,don't rush!! a part here, a part there, build it right!! take your time. Again a Homie discount install does not cover car fire and I cant tell you how many times I have turned away a customer due to a butchered system unless they start over. :bye: AKA the B&I and other starlight swap meet installs. :sick:  Best way to know a bad install is if you drive out and your shit is too hot to touch, not fastened in, and/or sliding around in the back of your ride! Just a heads up, DO NOT BUY A $20 AMP WIRE KIT!! IT IS NOT TRUE GAUGE!! :no:  A true gauge kit is heavy as hell, you will know a difference. :o  I understand there are many of what we call B.O.B's Ballers on a Budget, but short changing yourself on the wire (foundation of a good system) WILL bite you in the ASS later!! :frantics:

 

But again, the best upgrade is sound deadening, a single layer reduces the metal vibrations, then some carpet pad (I like the stringy stuff for stairs over the foam) to mute road noise even more. They say it will gain you around 3db alone, guess what, that means it will sound like you doubled the sound output from the system! :w00t:

[Doctoraudio]

Don't forget to lay undercoat rubber too. It does make a big change if it is more than 2 - 3 mm thick.

[EatLag]

Right... well im sticking with my 350 watt (MAXP PEAK) amp, it seems to push the 1000 watt sub along quite nicecly for such a small cabin, but because that 350 watt is the peak normally it would be running at what? 200 watts at the most so i should be right with the 50amp alt

[datzenmike]

This is the second alternator? or third counting the original? It's time you paid attention to what this is trying to tell you. For less cost you could have gotten a bigger one. If you have a lifetime guarantee you are only wasting your time.

[Doctoraudio]

+1