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Trouble with Installing L20b in 510, with Dogleg


510SSS

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Hey everyone, I'm having a problem getting the teeth on the transmission spine to line up with the engine, so that the two will mate together. They are very close with about an inch gap all the way around, but it seems as the angle is a bit off. Are their any tricks to getting the two to mate easier, for example, can I disconnect the driveshaft, then pull the tranny back, thus allowing me to put the engine on the motor mounts, then push the transmission back forward to mate with the engine? Any other way of getting the two to line up correctly?

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I unbolt the idler arm on the passenger side (two bolts) and linkage drops right outta the way sometimes it helps give that little bit of movement you need.  Cussing at it helps tremendously also.

 

Just to be clear only the idler arm to body not whole steering.

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Start with what Mike asked...

 

I had issues when I put mine together.  I ended up supporting the trans with a floor jack and un-bolted the trans mount, thus lowering the rear of the trans to line-up better with the engine.  I also did not have the engine mounts installed.  The engine was hanging off the hoist with an adjustable engine lift attachement, so I could angle the rear of the engine downward.  It fought back, but finally I held my tongue just right,  wiggled the engine, and the two mated without any excesive force.

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Maybe the problem is the 280zx did not come with a dogleg?

 

 

 

So you mean the input shaft will not slide into the crank shaft?

Aligned properly? Evenly torqued pressure plate?

 I was gonna say dogleg 280zx ?!?!?!...... but yeah like naner says on all datsuns I drop the idler arm it is way easier to load in there... only put about 10 l series in this week alone but it was the same two motors just several in and outs ...

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Thanks Alot for the Help guys, Oh my mistake, which car did the 5 speed dogleg come out of? Ya I checked everything you guys mentioned, pressure plate evenly torqued, new pilot bushing, L16 oil pan, yeah clutch was changed, used alignment tool. What I ended up doing was putting a block of wood underneath both the trans and the engine then tipping the engine forward by jacking it up. Then I spun the engine around with a wrench on the crank bolt, with one person underneath the car shaking the trans, and the other shaking the engine simultaneously on the engine hoist, eventually after turning the engine over and over it finally meshed and frickin popped into place, hallelujah! The trick was to wait until after the engine was down on the passenger side motor mount, where the engine leans to, then I left the drivers side motor mount uninstalled until I had the other one bolted in loosely. Then I stood on that motor mount to lift the drivers side of the engine up enough to slip the isolator in and bolt it down, whew what a pain.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had some similar problems when I swapped the Dogleg out or the stock 4spd (2nd and 3rd are blown I believe - going to pull it apart as do a right up on it ). Straight swap, no clutch redo.

 

I had 2 friends there helping, mostly drinking my beer, but helping none the less ;) During reinstall I left the Xmeber off of the trans, but the rubber mount on, then loosened the drivers and passenger side engine mounts. Then had one of my beer drinking buddies tilt the motor so that the rear dropped... Slid is the first few inches, wiggled the tail shaft to line up the cogs, and there I was stuck and cussing for 30 minutes..... Pulled the trans back out, used some steel wool on the input shaft, a tiny bit of gear lune and went at it again (the trans sat for 9 years, had a touch of oxidation)

 

2nd try got to the same point and was stuck again. I don't have any logic for why the next step worked like it did, but I rotated the whole trans case counter clockwise about 10 degrees. POP - in she went, then rotated back to standard and lines up the holes and we were good to go.... Strange huh?

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