Jump to content

TheBirdistheWord

Members
  • Posts

    287
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by TheBirdistheWord

  1. Other than the fact that it sounds and feels like it's happening right in front of me as opposed to a few feet behind me is really my only "proof" so to speak of intake vs exhaust backfire. Sounds like all of the other backfires that I mentioned earlier in this post
  2. Thank you to everyone who has replied. So it seems like a couple of tap sessions dislodged whatever it was in the needle valve. Today I was coming home from a local meet and with the engine completely warmed up... In fact running a little warmer than usual and I got a carb backfire when I blipped the throttle for a downshift. I kept driving to see if I could re-create it to try and diagnose. It happened two more times in about 10 miles but I didn't notice any consistency. What can cause this on a warm engine
  3. According to the fuel pressure gauge it's at 3psi all of the time. Does anyone know stock float level for a 38 outlaw? Or can I get away with eyeballing it and getting the resting float level parallel with the bowl mounting surface? Could this issue possibly affect A/F screw mixture behavior? I've never been able to get the same kind of clear adjustment feedback I was able to get with the 32/36 that it replaced. I do have a manual choke, but have been having issues with the cable since the mounting location is different than the 32/36. Are there any sources for custom length cables? I emailed a few distributors as well as redline directly to no avail.
  4. Forgot to update this, and lost my photos of the process. Removed top nut from the strut to save alignment as well as calipers and I was able to remove inserts and install new ones. One thing to note though, if I had stock lower arms and bushings it would probably be necessary to remove lower strut mounts and steering knuckle. Minimum remove tie rod from the knuckle as I don't think the arm would articulate enough to swing the strut out for insert maintenance.
  5. Weber 38/38 once warm it has a solid idle and runs relatively well. I had noticed a "fluid moving around" sound after shut off months ago but assumed it was coolant. I've played with ignition timing and a LOT of air mixture screw fiddling to no avail as far as mitigating the backfire. Just noticed the extra fuel dropping into the manifold immediately after shut off while doing some tinkering yesterday. Figure they're likely related. Anyone have any insight on what might need attention?
  6. Coasting mainly. Braking or accelerating doesnt seem to change the condition. These tie rods are relatively new but I do have the T3 tie rods waiting to go in, this might be the time. Copy that thank you! Idler arm bushing is new, tc rods are heim joints, federal fd2 tires have less than 5k on them. I will check the other things. Thank you!
  7. I have a strange wobble that is seemingly getting worse, and I can't recreate it at will to try and diagnose It. feels/looks like someone shaking the wheel back and forth an 1/8th turn. The car drives straight while it's happening, but it also feels like the entire front of the car is rocking back and forth slightly. I thought it was the (zx front and rear disks) brakes at first, but after inspection the rotors aren't grooved at all and the pad surfaces are in tact and look okay with 80% life left on them. Have T3 gtx2 front hardware, stock steering link and tie rods, with coilovers on ZX struts, and a steering box brace. I'm just looking for some ideas on where I can start checking for loose stuff beyond the typical yanking on the linkage.
  8. I'm at the top or "end" of the adjustment on #1 cylinder exhaust valve and the lash is at .007 while hot. All other valves lash are in spec with a bunch more adjustment available in both directions. Obviously that's not enough clearance, I'm curious what this indicates about the head parts? This is a rebuilt peanut head with about 10k hard miles on it, am I looking at a another rebuild? What causes this and how can I prevent it in the future? Engine seems to run fine.
  9. Sorry, I don't have pics, but hopefully my .02 is welcomed. I have a Hakosuka spoiler that was gifted to me so I'm going to try and make it work. I'll need to trim the center of the mounting line for it to sit flush and no matter how I mock it up, it looks to me like the only way the mounts will work is if the spoiler is pointing more towards the ground which pretty severely limits ground clearance on my already very low car. ultimately it's personal preference, with that said I think it also depends on which spoiler you have. The BRE seem to flow a bit better if it's mounted in a way that leaves the bottom edge close to parallel with the ground vs my hako spoilers being more perpendicular.
  10. Looks like my employer needs some help at a new facility. I told him I couldn't commute 2 hours one way In a 50 year old race car and I was able to negotiate getting my engine and a large amount of maintenance items paid for up front to start work at the new facility asap! About time I got a break......
  11. On a side note, I was confused as to why the various jdm engine suppliers had a hard line on their engine mileage considering the local market wants just as much for engines with double the mileage. So I did some digging and I'm sure some people here already know this but I found out that Japan's inspections are so strict that they frequently decommission cars in the 40-80k mile range for things as insignificant as worn tires.
  12. So pulling the heads will obviously give me a better idea of what's happening, and I will do that asap. But I'm still interested in opinions about the initial inquiry. Say the heads ARE in fact in need of a rebuild, and the block IS good. Who here would throw rebuilt/new heads onto a block with 305k vs getting a low mileage/new longblock. I should mention I already have everything needed to refresh a low mileage engine since I was in the process of doing a major tune up. Timing belt, water pump/thermostat, and all pulleys were replaced on current engine 10k miles ago as well as everything to re seal the top of the engine in hand. I like the idea of getting used engine because I get all of the accessories as replacements and don't need to provide a core. I even found someone who provides a 5 year 50k warranty on their used engines with up to 80k on them.
  13. Not sure about the variable cam timing, but I can see why you ask. If I didn't disable it before test there's a possibility it could have adversely effected it. Well if it was the rings I'm certain I would have seen at least some soot on the plugs when I removed them, they literally look brand new. I guess I'll have to tear the engine down more to get a conclusive answer.
  14. Not yet, one of them has to come off anyway because of the aforementioned FUBARd intake manifold bolt extraction. Lost the wind in my sails after the tests so I stopped putting time into it until I decided what direction to go since as far as I can tell the engine would be easier to pull with the heads installed I'll look into this, but probably will just pull heads if there's a chance it's salvageable I had the same thought since the compression tester I initially used was rented from the parts store. Tried two different brand new testers and got the exact same results. It's been a few months so I'm a little hazy on which cylinder s were highest psi, but I think it was 3/5 and 2/4 at 60psi 1/6 at 120. The second two tests I wrapped plumbers tape around the threads to make sure the tester in the spark plug threads wasn't causing a false reading. All of the plugs were removed during every test as I was advised keeping them in had potential to give me false positives if the head gasket had failed between two cylinders. Leak down test had an audible leak through the intake valves, and it was easy to tell since the manifold was off. I triple checked I was at TDC on each cylinder because I was convinced I was doing something wrong considering the results I suppose "burned" is the improper term, there is a massive amount of carbon build up on the TB, runners, manifold, and intake valves. I suspect the pcv valve failed some time back but again don't think this could be the sole cause. One thing I am almost certain of is it's NOT the bottom end. Put new plugs In about 5k miles ago and they looked brand new when I removed them for this job.
  15. 305k on a 3.4 5ve-fe v6 Long story short, I was replacing the intake manifold gasket and screwed up a broken bolt extraction so I was faced with removing one of the head(s). Considering the miles I decided to do a compression and leak down test while the spark plugs holes were easily accessible. 4 of the 6 cylinders are 60psi and the other 2 are at 120. Leak down test showed cylinders with the lowest psi were definitely leaking through the intake valves and the other two inconclusively through the coolant system, it was hard to tell with the last two since I had drained system for the intake manifold replacement. Besides average mpg being down to 17mpg from the normal 20-22 and maybe a slight reduction in power there was no indication the engine was in this poor of condition. Also I recently bumped up tire size so I dont think these two "symptoms" alone are out of the ordinary. I'm legitimately baffled that the engine was running at all with the results of the test. Here's where I'd like any insight available: I've spoken to a few different Toyota/truck mechanics to get some feedback on if I was performing the tests correctly and about how to move forward. They unilaterally all said that if they were dealing with an engine the had the same symptoms I was describing with as high mileage as my block has they wouldn't even think about replacing the heads alone. It would automatically be a full engine replacement. I'd really appreciate hearing any opinions or experiences that could help with the decision. Also, can anyone tell me how 4 intake valves get burned on a really well cared for truck with a famously hearty and reliable engine platform, while at this same time showing no signs of it??? It was religiously serviced at the dealer since it was new until I bought it with 270k and I am very diligent about servicing it.
  16. I was under the impression it was the same design. Probably just big O quality alignment to blame. After I install a fewore things I'll be bringing it to Sprint Motorsports In San Jose and see what they suggest.
  17. After spirited driving It appears my rear toe has maxed outward on both side of vehicle. Can see the slip marks made by the washer. When I threw a buddies toe brackets on the car it it tells a different story. The measurement is confusing to me, it suggests theyre actually slightly toed in. I was helping the alignment tech adjust the rear on the rack and we set it slightly out it's possible the marks on the bracket are old and I just don't remember it. But that doesn't explain why they're measuring toed in. I've considered welding them in place after alignment but I was under impression these brackets were the solution to the old slot and weld technique on stock rear Xmember brackets. There's not much meat on the bottom adjustment slot so I'd like to avoid this approach. Anyone know what gives? How to keep in place with supplied hardware?
  18. I took a stab at it with window taped in the up position. Worked out fine.
  19. I swear there used to be a sticky with this information. Uninstalling and installing seems relatively straight forward. Unscrew/clip all of the things, slide it out of the bottom part of door. Can anyone confirm if I tape the window in place in the "up" position or is it easier to roll it down? I'm asking because the roller gears are definitely stripped, and if I roll it down it may now be going back up again.
  20. Looks like I was a tad too hasty or it was a tad too late at night in someone else's driveway when I did the assembly. But it appears I overlooked or improperly installed the pcv pipe out of the block and the dipstick tube. They're rattling around and dumping oil everywhere. I tried waiting for cold engine and freezing and greasing to pop them in to no avail. Any tricks to getting these securely placed with engine installed?
  21. Looks like it was just loose-ish connections. Everything except the tach had some wiggle to it. Gave the spade connectors the needle nose treatment and tach movement is solid as a rock! Also, i was actually referring to the mechanical parts in the dizzy. I have two spare EI boxes if I need them. Thanks! I'll look into this for the spare matchbox body I have laying around.
  22. Occasionally it will happen while sitting, and slowly up to 2k. Copy that It happens in neutral as well but only higher rpm Is there a source for rebuild parts for matchbox dizzy?
  23. 4wire tach and matchbox dizzy Starts just over 2krpm, and doesn't seem to affect engine performance. (I.e. engine doesn't seem to be misfiring) But it bugs the living bajeesus out of me. I speculate if it's an ignition issue it may be robbing me of some power and I just can't tell? There doesn't seem to be any consistency when it happens either. Shows up and goes away while weather is cold/wet/moderate/hot as well as engine cold/hot
  24. This was exactly how I was thinking of doing it! Thanks for the input. I'll snap some photos when I get to it. I have to set the rear toe and install some T3 tierods. Hoping to get it all done in a day
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.