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TheBirdistheWord started following Datsun 510, universal harness in, Bad Headlight switch?
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Datsun 510, universal harness in, Bad Headlight switch?
TheBirdistheWord replied to TheBirdistheWord's topic in Electrical
FYI, I ended up giving up on this and repaired the stock harness. It wasn't pretty, but ended up working for the next 4 years or so before it needed more attention. -
Time Left: 12 days and 13 hours
- FOR SALE
- USED
Pretty straight forward Stock l20B, has an a87 head. No accessories, comes with front cover. Junkyard engine I bought years ago, I've personally ran this engine with no issues but I have never opened it up or inspected it past swapping the head/gasket and a compression test. It's never let me down, and I run my engines hard. Came with a "smog" w58 head so I'm assuming it was in a truck. Timing chain was done with the clutch. It's installed into one of my cars at the moment for storage sake but is not hooked up to run. will only remove once I've found a buyer. Looking for 1000 for the package, willing to deal if I keep the flywheel, oil pan, and or the front cover How I came to this price: Short block-300 Head-225 Front cover- 125 200mm Flywheel-175 L16 oil pan-175 Transmission -free (tested at low speeds, 1st and 2nd are fine) Edit: For anyone that's interested in the package as a whole I'm Willing to throw in driveshaft and r160 to complete the drive line$1,000
Morgan Hill , California - US
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Harvesting body panels from donor car for restoration.
TheBirdistheWord replied to TheBirdistheWord's topic in Body/Interior
This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you! I will 100% take you up on this offer, pm sent -
Harvesting body panels from donor car for restoration.
TheBirdistheWord replied to TheBirdistheWord's topic in Body/Interior
Er.... Anyone? -
I have a front end for a dime that was cut off with a jig saw about 12 inches back from the core support. Id like to "disassemble" this so to speak so I can reclaim as much as possible also for having proper references for fitment when I go disassemble/restore the recipient vehicle. Id like to avoid cutting unnecessarily to try and reassemble similar to factory. I'm very confident that a path will present itself after I get the unit sand blasted however I was wondering if anyone had any tips, tricks, or documentation on how to find the spot welds to drill out and measurements for reinstalling? Planning rust repair/restoration on pretty much entire underside of cabin including outer frame rails and front end in the coming weeks. As always Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. Edit: because I'm a dummy I forgot to mention, I also have a doner car that is virtually rust free but wrecked in the rear. Plan is to use whatever I need from that for cabin repairs, if there's enough left over I'll put it back together as some kind of sheet paneled/caged frankendime.
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Time Left: 3 days and 4 hours
- FOR SALE
- USED
EDIT: I am sentimental about this car which is why I did the work to swap a bunch of parts into it to sell "whole." However, if it doesn't sell in the next 30 days possibly sooner. I will be cutting it up and donating the parts to my new chassis. Some body parts may be available soon. This is a copy paste from my Craigslist ad. I've owned this car for 12 years, it was recently rear ended and I've decided to move on to a new chassis. Not selling anything else out of frame, just the car in the foreground of photos. - Non op registration in my name, no back fees. RUNNING L20B engine with A87 closed chamber head - no cancer rust! Only surface stuff from sitting since accident, was prepped for paint prior to accident. - comes with rear lowering springs, coilovers conversion for front struts and camber plates. - electronic ignition - internally regulated alternator - working 4 speed transmission. - Aftermarket oil pressure and coolant temp gauges. - Original sensors still work on the dash. - Aftermarket dash cap - French racing steering wheel - wiring harness has been rebuilt, wiper and headlight switches work. - all lights work as they should Everything else is stock from 1971 and should be rebuilt to be roadworthy. Runs and rolls! Some assembly required! Perfect rally car/drift platform! Motivated seller! If you ask questions that I have answered in this post I will not respond. Can email better photos upon request. Open to in person offers, as well as partial/trades for AWD or quirky 80s and 90s 4 door cars or motorcycles. Tercel, civic wagon, previa, element, Impreza, loyale, Caprice, impala, roadmaster https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/d/morgan-hill-1971-datsun-510/7661321925.html CL link for for photos$3,500
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Plugs for front of engine near chain tensioner/oiler
TheBirdistheWord replied to TheBirdistheWord's topic in Engine
Copy that, thank you all for the info! -
Machine shop that is working my z22 removed these to clean the block. Is there a source for these or should I take his recommendation to tap and plug it with something more available? Also, the bypass (bearing?) On the oil filter location was removed. Source for these?
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While googling I came across a few different threads on various forums talking about the block needing new coolant passages on the driver side? Now it seems the only reference for this I can find is doing a slight chamfer to the oiling hole to match it up to an l20b gasket. I have seen the info about properly modifying a z24 gasket. I have a z22 bored to 89mm so I guess I'm good to go aside from the gasket modification? Thanks for the clarification!
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I remember seeing a photo of a z22 block where the recommended holes for LZ build were drilled and circled. Does anyone know where that was? Or can anyone provide one?
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I thought this too because of the contact the door is making with the body. However once I started comparing measurements of the hinge holes on each chassis and the doors it doesn't seem to be the case. Not saying damage isn't possible but Part of the reason I bought the 69 was because it was relatively unscathed compared to the 71. Also, I assume if chassis damage was the case then the 69 door that lines up with itself likely wouldn't have lined up with the 71 Thank you sir. Guess I just need to keep fiddling with it.
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I think I'm failing at keywords for my searches once again. I am cannibalizing a wrecked mid year 71 2 door dime to build up a 69 2 door and from all of the info I have seen so far the doors look to be and should be interchangable. When i put the passenger side 71 door onto the 69 it seems to be about a half inch wider at the door skin. In addition the top front portion of the door that lines up with the fender was gouging the body pretty good when I opened the door to full lock. Admittedly I did not fool around much with the hinges, I removed both doors and respective hinges together, swapped them, then stopped when I ran into this. As I look closer there does seem to be some miner differences in the contours of the sills where the striker is mounted. The 69 door went onto the 71 and lined right up with very little issues so I'm confused now. Will the doors and fenders from a 71 mount and line up on a 69? What am I doing wrong?
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Well shoot, how'd I miss that. Thank you!
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Is this a hard item to find? Might be a keyword thing but my searches on the forum and Google haven't produced much in the way of availability. Trying to setup a set on an L16 and the linkage that interacts with the stock throttle pivot and spring on the firewall is pretty much last thing I need. edit: Actually I need some more odds and ends come to think of it of anyone can point me to a good source that carries service parts for these I'd be very grateful.
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How to measure/identify flywheel size
TheBirdistheWord replied to TheBirdistheWord's topic in Drivetrain
I'm definitely responsible for my own misunderstanding since I have been jumping in and out of hypotheticals. However, if I'm not mistaken I'm getting conflicting info. But I think I found the disconnect with the emphasis on the adjustable threaded rod on the slave/fork connection making up for potential differences in collar lengths. The last time I did this I did not use the pressure plate measurement, I just put one collar in and when it didn't work I used a shorter one with the exedy kit hainz linked already. Obviously the measurement is a less labor intensive way to figure it out. So with that said, I will be selling a collar PP combo that I know works with an L20B and 6 bolt 200mm flywheel. Best I can do is measure it before it goes and compare it to what I'm keeping? so I know if I need to look for a different collar and PP for this freshly machined 200mm 6 bolt flywheel I have. I could possibly have matching collars and PPs between the vehicles. I'll be removing and swaping everything this upcoming week so I'll report back what I find.
