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TheBirdistheWord

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About TheBirdistheWord

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  • Location
    San Mateo, CA
  • Cars
    '72 510 L20B/ZX 5 spd

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  1. I swear there used to be a sticky with this information. Uninstalling and installing seems relatively straight forward. Unscrew/clip all of the things, slide it out of the bottom part of door. Can anyone confirm if I tape the window in place in the "up" position or is it easier to roll it down? I'm asking because the roller gears are definitely stripped, and if I roll it down it may now be going back up again.
  2. Looks like I was a tad too hasty or it was a tad too late at night in someone else's driveway when I did the assembly. But it appears I overlooked or improperly installed the pcv pipe out of the block and the dipstick tube. They're rattling around and dumping oil everywhere. I tried waiting for cold engine and freezing and greasing to pop them in to no avail. Any tricks to getting these securely placed with engine installed?
  3. Looks like it was just loose-ish connections. Everything except the tach had some wiggle to it. Gave the spade connectors the needle nose treatment and tach movement is solid as a rock! Also, i was actually referring to the mechanical parts in the dizzy. I have two spare EI boxes if I need them. Thanks! I'll look into this for the spare matchbox body I have laying around.
  4. Occasionally it will happen while sitting, and slowly up to 2k. Copy that It happens in neutral as well but only higher rpm Is there a source for rebuild parts for matchbox dizzy?
  5. 4wire tach and matchbox dizzy Starts just over 2krpm, and doesn't seem to affect engine performance. (I.e. engine doesn't seem to be misfiring) But it bugs the living bajeesus out of me. I speculate if it's an ignition issue it may be robbing me of some power and I just can't tell? There doesn't seem to be any consistency when it happens either. Shows up and goes away while weather is cold/wet/moderate/hot as well as engine cold/hot
  6. This was exactly how I was thinking of doing it! Thanks for the input. I'll snap some photos when I get to it. I have to set the rear toe and install some T3 tierods. Hoping to get it all done in a day
  7. I forgot to mention I have coilovers as well. I figured I'd get these answers. Guess I won't try to be a lazy ass!
  8. Unmodified ZX struts and TTT GT2X control arms/TC rods, I have new (used) tokiko blues to install. Before I get started I figured I'd ask if anyone has tried or knows second hand if I can be a lazy ass and get away with removing old insert and installing new ones without dismounting camber plates from car and removing minimal to no bottom hardware?
  9. Lol, believe it or not I actually new that about the 210 already. I'm just flustered and scrambling to have a vehicle to use... Ill likely put cam in the a87 head that's installed currently, as it's already got the valve stems/seals and light port work. Working with what I currently have on the parts shelf, I'm aware that there are better options. Ill Have the 210 head as backup in stock form. I've got a w58 smog head that I may choose to put some money into. But opinions on if it's worth the effort is a mixed bag.
  10. Hm. Well seems I'm already sacrificing that so I may pull the trigger and have him install it when he's done cleaning the 210 up.
  11. Could this cam potentially be a better match for the carb?
  12. So, lossened the valve just a smidge. No more backfiring. The spark plug in the 2 cylinder was drenched in fuel. All other plugs were fine. Ive had some luck with running issues with going back to both idle circuits being open. One is at 1 turns out the other at .5 still surges and boggs at idle slightly. Going to run it around the block in a few minutes to see if it's reliable. I'm not using a choke at the moment. Accelerator pump(s) seems fine. My 1st Gen Tacoma's water pump is leaking with less than 10k on replacement. So I kind of need this thing to be solid to get me to work.
  13. So, figured I'd revive this thread since it has most of the pertinent photos. I'm getting funny surging at warm start and severe bogging off throttle. This morning started getting back firing through the carb. Verified timing is correct. From what I can tell through using my googlefoo is the afformentioned intake valve that had the rocker arm fall off is f#*$ed. Adjusted the valves less than 20 miles ago with the engine warm and this intake valve seems to be in the correct adjustment. Was a bit chattery before the backfiring so I'm hesitant to back it off a bit to see if it's too tight and not closing all of the way. Whatever. Chatter be damned, gonna try to see if loosening valve helps the backfire Other than pulling the head are there ways to confirm before I pull the head? I have a 210 head that I picked up for $30 getting cleaned up for use just in case there is damage on this peanut head. Guy I brought my head to has this cam for sale. Can anyone help me ID the duration? I've had no luck with isky site.
  14. There's no throttle shaft play whatsoever. It was a very lightly used good condition carb when I got it. Compression test came back as: Cyl 1 156 Cyl 2 120 Cyl 3 158 Cyl 4 151 That obviously needs to be addressed before I can assume it's carb related. I had another post a few weeks back detailing a rocker arm that fell off on the number 2 cylinder during high rpms I'm now thinking it's safe to assume the valve seat is damaged preventing proper compression. Looks like the head needs to come off. 😬😣😭
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