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About TheBirdistheWord

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    San Mateo, CA
  • Cars
    '72 510 L20B/ZX 5 spd

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  1. Can you elaborate on the setup? Any chance you might be able to post photos?
  2. *update* Finally got everything squared away with the swap and took the dime out to set the piston rings. Man I gotta tell you guys, there's a huge difference from the 32/36 to the dual 38. I was able to spin em through 1st and 2nd gear and chirp 3rd! damn good feeling. Feedback so far; First, even though for the sake of the rings setting properly I was minimizing how much I let it idle I noticed some surging after getting the timing set. I'm hoping it is simply an air leak at the carb manifold mating surface. Second, after a trip on the back roads and multiple pulls up to 5500 rpm the plugs look good. Cream colored all the way up to the top which is definitely on its way to being a nice golden brown color. However, both mixture screws are only turned out 3/4 of a turn each. I know on the 32/36 this would indicate the main jet is too large, is this also the case with the 38? Lastly, does anyone have any suggestions on a better throttle linkage set up? The stock stuff has fallen off during spirited driving in the past, and during my drive today it momentarily got pegged at full throttle. I may just need to in vest in a new set of pivot rods
  3. This, I am aware of. I failed to mention that I also had about a half millimeter of Carbon build up on the top of my pistons as well.
  4. You know, I'm pretty sure I've over jetted my 32/36 and didn't even know until I saw this. Ive noticed the same thing but I chalked it up to either oily coolant getting past the failed head gasket(s) that I was changing at the time or coolant diluted oil running into carb from the valve cover vent. It occurred to me that I never checked jetting from previous owner on the 38 I have. Can anyone save me some time searching the net and post up the baseline jetting for an outlaw? PO said it was installed on his L20b so I'm hoping I can assume it's safe to at least set the rings on my engine before I start fine tuning.
  5. Not yet! Thanks for the input! Took me a bit longer to get the new engine in than I thought it would. Trans mount broke when I went to bolt it back up. Thought it was strange because I replaced it when I installed the ZX trans. Also stopped mid project to get the front cover cracks welded, I hope the rest of the cover holds up! I've read up on the negligible gains from the offy manifold. It is really just for bling factor, I really like the way it looks compared to the L16 manifold I have. Just got the engine sealed up and installed tonight. Going to do the accessories and cooling this weekend. Waiting on new intake/exhaust manifold to start fiddling with the carb.
  6. So, I bought a used outlaw about a year back planning on using it on my mild L20 build. Since I'm not dealing with emissions can I get away with simply hooking up the same lines that my 32/36 uses and capping the rest? Also, as I went down the search rabbit hole I've noticed a trend about them not being well suited for builds on the mild side. I have stock l20 internals bored .30 over with oversized l20 pistons, a peanut head, stock cam, and offy manifold. I'd like to see comments on real world driving experience with a 38/38. Actual mileage? Driveability? Pros? Cons? Edit: I do have a napZ block ready for a building, so Ill definitely find a place for the 38/38 eventually, just wondering if it might be advantageous for my baby l20 build to stick with jet fiddling and synchronous linkage on my 32/36.
  7. Thanks for the suggestions! Driveshaft has absolutely zero play when I yanked/rotated it for better part of 10 minutes. Trans and diff and mustache mounts were tight. Just did some extensive work on exhaust and it is rattling on the xmemeber slightly but I know what that sounds like this vibration is new. Despite being quality replacement ujoints the driver side inner joint has some lateral play. Kind of crazy I can get that kind of vibration from that little amount of play. Had a spare used one pressed in to verify and that was it. Two days later head gasket on the tired l20 I had in there took a dump. *sigh*. Universe telli g me to put my built l20 in there I guess. I sense CV shafts in my future....
  8. welded 3.9 r180 installed recently behind a close ratio ZX trans. I was 2 miles from home after a spirited drive on hwy 152 over the santa Cruz mountains. The clunking will entirely dissapate if I accelerate at any rate. I have seen a few related posts while searching and it seems the ujoints are the first thing to check. All 4 half shaft ujoints have only 15k on them and are grease frequently, rear wheel bearings and CA bushings are new. Mustache bar bushing replaced. I think I can make a decent assumption it's in the shaft since it's literally the only thing I haven't serviced/replaced in the driveline/suspension. Is there a way I can verify driveshaft ujoints are culprit before I start pulling crap off and starting a goose chase?
  9. These units have stepped spacers as well. TTT said the only thing these spherical bushing will do when failed are make a clunking noise. Insists that I'm fine without outer washer. I'll grind down the steps spacers and install the concave washers before I do any competitive driving.
  10. When I bought the Car it came with the original L16 and auto transmission. The suspension was untouched besides ZX struts. When I was messing with it today I confirmed there IS an inner safety washer installed. I'm assuming they're the stock bolts, what makes them look non stock? I'll likely hear from TTT about spacers tomorrow. It'd be nice to leave the arm on and just get away with replacing/grinding the outer spacers
  11. Oh Deng. That's good to know, I guess I'll be good to put around for now, but I should address it before I start racing. I'll ask TTT tuning for a different bushing since they offered. Thanks!
  12. I asked TTT about the stock washers and they confirmed that they can be removed. To avoid uninstalling the entire assembly, I just tried it without the outer washer and the top of the bolt is now flush with the top of the nylon lock portion of the new nuts I just bought. Nice and secure, with some loctite I'm calling it good unless that sounds suspect to anyone? Thanks for the input!
  13. Just got a response from TTT, they said to make sure the crossmember bolts are installed properly. If that doesn't work they will make me new spacers. I just removed the 22mm mount bolts. Passenger side was stripped, going to grab some new hardware and try it again. Just tried he Depot with no luck, anyone know where to get big mount nuts?
  14. That was big O. that was also the point I started giving them "some" direction. I informed them ahead of time that it was highly modified and didn't want them to try if they weren't confident about it. Even said that directly to their "master mechanic" and he ended up tapping out when I got more involved after he mangled the hardware. He handed the job off to a younger employee who was a fan of the car. Whatever, nothing is broken. Tried to save some time instead of bringing it to a proper shop in San Jose. Live and learn, I call that damage a "convenience tax" Is there a specific procedure to tighten the crossmember pin/bolt to ensure the proper amount of threads are available for installing the CA?
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