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About TheBirdistheWord

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    San Mateo, CA
  • Cars
    '72 510 L20B/ZX 5 spd

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  1. These units have stepped spacers as well. TTT said the only thing these spherical bushing will do when failed are make a clunking noise. Insists that I'm fine without outer washer. I'll grind down the steps spacers and install the concave washers before I do any competitive driving.
  2. When I bought the Car it came with the original L16 and auto transmission. The suspension was untouched besides ZX struts. When I was messing with it today I confirmed there IS an inner safety washer installed. I'm assuming they're the stock bolts, what makes them look non stock? I'll likely hear from TTT about spacers tomorrow. It'd be nice to leave the arm on and just get away with replacing/grinding the outer spacers
  3. Oh Deng. That's good to know, I guess I'll be good to put around for now, but I should address it before I start racing. I'll ask TTT tuning for a different bushing since they offered. Thanks!
  4. I asked TTT about the stock washers and they confirmed that they can be removed. To avoid uninstalling the entire assembly, I just tried it without the outer washer and the top of the bolt is now flush with the top of the nylon lock portion of the new nuts I just bought. Nice and secure, with some loctite I'm calling it good unless that sounds suspect to anyone? Thanks for the input!
  5. Just got a response from TTT, they said to make sure the crossmember bolts are installed properly. If that doesn't work they will make me new spacers. I just removed the 22mm mount bolts. Passenger side was stripped, going to grab some new hardware and try it again. Just tried he Depot with no luck, anyone know where to get big mount nuts?
  6. That was big O. that was also the point I started giving them "some" direction. I informed them ahead of time that it was highly modified and didn't want them to try if they weren't confident about it. Even said that directly to their "master mechanic" and he ended up tapping out when I got more involved after he mangled the hardware. He handed the job off to a younger employee who was a fan of the car. Whatever, nothing is broken. Tried to save some time instead of bringing it to a proper shop in San Jose. Live and learn, I call that damage a "convenience tax" Is there a specific procedure to tighten the crossmember pin/bolt to ensure the proper amount of threads are available for installing the CA?
  7. If I remember correctly, the spacers are integrated into the bushing, I don't know if I'm able to just replace one side individually. But I agree, the length on the back end causes the clearance between CA and linkage to be a bit tight. the I emailed TTT the same photos, I'll follow up tomorrow.
  8. I wonder if this is something techno toy tuning has overlooked or might already have a solution for, I'll contact them to find out. If not, I'll grind down the spacers a bit. What about a lower profile nut?
  9. Email sent. Thank you! From the photos I took, It actually does look like all of the the threads on the bolt are engaged. Seems there is a "lip" on the nut that isn't. If there's nothing alarming about this Ill just loctite and call it good.
  10. I'll try to upload some photos tomorrow, I kind of hate dealing with the 3rd party photo hosting required by the forum. Does the procedure of tightening with load on the suspension still apply to spherical bushings?
  11. I tried tightening again, albeit the car was on stands. Drivers side is damn tight already, passenger side just keeps spinning. Didn't know that bit about the suspension needing to be engaged for tightening. I think I'll back em off use some loctite and try again with stands under the control arms. I'm almost inclined to replace the nuts if I'm taking them off anyway. Copy that, yes stock x member and bolts. thank you for saving me the hassle of repairing the damage from figuring that out the hard way. Anyone have any insight on if this will effect my alignment? I have a warranty from big O and it looks like I'll be needing to replace the strut cartridges very soon. So paired with that I'm sure I'll need to go back.
  12. So, I reused the stock 24mm mounting nuts and big washers when I installed these new arms. It was an adventure getting it aligned at big O but after taking some direction from me they got it done. I've noticed after driving and inspecting that even though they don't appear to be backing off yet, the big mounting nuts are only engaging about 3/4 of the threads. It almost appears as if they've backed off but I don't recall what they looked like when I first installed them, I just wrenched until they were tight. Should I have left the big washers off since these arms use spherical joints in place of rubber? Can I get more clearance on the bolt if I back off the smaller nut on the front of the x member and dead blow them through the xmember? Both? I'm hesitant to continue driving it until I can sort this out. Any input is appreciated.
  13. I am confident the bearings are in good condition. This is a new build that I failed to seal the rings into properly, as you already guessed i am looking to expedite the process considering everything was new and professionally measured from the crank outward. thanks for the input!
  14. thank for the reply! I should have been more clear, I am more concerned about the main bearing journals. Covering/cleaning the rod journals will be simple seeing as how the rod will be uninstalled to re ring the pistons. Mike, are you saying that you think the grit that will be around the torqued main bearings will be negligible?
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