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TheBirdistheWord

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About TheBirdistheWord

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    San Mateo, CA
  • Cars
    '72 510 L20B/ZX 5 spd

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  1. Coasting mainly. Braking or accelerating doesnt seem to change the condition. These tie rods are relatively new but I do have the T3 tie rods waiting to go in, this might be the time. Copy that thank you! Idler arm bushing is new, tc rods are heim joints, federal fd2 tires have less than 5k on them. I will check the other things. Thank you!
  2. I have a strange wobble that is seemingly getting worse, and I can't recreate it at will to try and diagnose It. feels/looks like someone shaking the wheel back and forth an 1/8th turn. The car drives straight while it's happening, but it also feels like the entire front of the car is rocking back and forth slightly. I thought it was the (zx front and rear disks) brakes at first, but after inspection the rotors aren't grooved at all and the pad surfaces are in tact and look okay with 80% life left on them. Have T3 gtx2 front hardware, stock steering link and tie rods, with coil
  3. I'm at the top or "end" of the adjustment on #1 cylinder exhaust valve and the lash is at .007 while hot. All other valves lash are in spec with a bunch more adjustment available in both directions. Obviously that's not enough clearance, I'm curious what this indicates about the head parts? This is a rebuilt peanut head with about 10k hard miles on it, am I looking at a another rebuild? What causes this and how can I prevent it in the future? Engine seems to run fine.
  4. Sorry, I don't have pics, but hopefully my .02 is welcomed. I have a Hakosuka spoiler that was gifted to me so I'm going to try and make it work. I'll need to trim the center of the mounting line for it to sit flush and no matter how I mock it up, it looks to me like the only way the mounts will work is if the spoiler is pointing more towards the ground which pretty severely limits ground clearance on my already very low car. ultimately it's personal preference, with that said I think it also depends on which spoiler you have. The BRE seem to flow a bit better if it's mounted i
  5. Looks like my employer needs some help at a new facility. I told him I couldn't commute 2 hours one way In a 50 year old race car and I was able to negotiate getting my engine and a large amount of maintenance items paid for up front to start work at the new facility asap! About time I got a break......
  6. On a side note, I was confused as to why the various jdm engine suppliers had a hard line on their engine mileage considering the local market wants just as much for engines with double the mileage. So I did some digging and I'm sure some people here already know this but I found out that Japan's inspections are so strict that they frequently decommission cars in the 40-80k mile range for things as insignificant as worn tires.
  7. So pulling the heads will obviously give me a better idea of what's happening, and I will do that asap. But I'm still interested in opinions about the initial inquiry. Say the heads ARE in fact in need of a rebuild, and the block IS good. Who here would throw rebuilt/new heads onto a block with 305k vs getting a low mileage/new longblock. I should mention I already have everything needed to refresh a low mileage engine since I was in the process of doing a major tune up. Timing belt, water pump/thermostat, and all pulleys were replaced on current engine 10k miles ago as well as
  8. Not sure about the variable cam timing, but I can see why you ask. If I didn't disable it before test there's a possibility it could have adversely effected it. Well if it was the rings I'm certain I would have seen at least some soot on the plugs when I removed them, they literally look brand new. I guess I'll have to tear the engine down more to get a conclusive answer.
  9. Not yet, one of them has to come off anyway because of the aforementioned FUBARd intake manifold bolt extraction. Lost the wind in my sails after the tests so I stopped putting time into it until I decided what direction to go since as far as I can tell the engine would be easier to pull with the heads installed I'll look into this, but probably will just pull heads if there's a chance it's salvageable I had the same thought since the compression tester I initially used was rented from the parts store. Tried two different brand new testers and got the exact same results. It's b
  10. 305k on a 3.4 5ve-fe v6 Long story short, I was replacing the intake manifold gasket and screwed up a broken bolt extraction so I was faced with removing one of the head(s). Considering the miles I decided to do a compression and leak down test while the spark plugs holes were easily accessible. 4 of the 6 cylinders are 60psi and the other 2 are at 120. Leak down test showed cylinders with the lowest psi were definitely leaking through the intake valves and the other two inconclusively through the coolant system, it was hard to tell with the last two since I had drained system for the
  11. I was under the impression it was the same design. Probably just big O quality alignment to blame. After I install a fewore things I'll be bringing it to Sprint Motorsports In San Jose and see what they suggest.
  12. After spirited driving It appears my rear toe has maxed outward on both side of vehicle. Can see the slip marks made by the washer. When I threw a buddies toe brackets on the car it it tells a different story. The measurement is confusing to me, it suggests theyre actually slightly toed in. I was helping the alignment tech adjust the rear on the rack and we set it slightly out it's possible the marks on the bracket are old and I just don't remember it. But that doesn't explain why they're measuring toed in. I've considered welding them in place after alignment but I was under i
  13. I took a stab at it with window taped in the up position. Worked out fine.
  14. I swear there used to be a sticky with this information. Uninstalling and installing seems relatively straight forward. Unscrew/clip all of the things, slide it out of the bottom part of door. Can anyone confirm if I tape the window in place in the "up" position or is it easier to roll it down? I'm asking because the roller gears are definitely stripped, and if I roll it down it may now be going back up again.
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