Fat510 Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 I don't have any coils. I have 280ZX struts with stock A10 springs with a 2 coils cut out with either 280zx or A10 inserts, I can't remember right now Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 You can use this calculator to figure out what you have now: http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_coil_spring_rate.htm Quote Link to comment
Socalif510 Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Anyone using all of Design Products suspension (DP racing)? I see the camber plates from time to time but wonder about all the other items he has listed on their site. http://dpracing.co/510_FrontSuspension.html 1 Quote Link to comment
reese Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Thinking about coil overs for my mostly stock 69 510 / l16 wagon. It's used for street driving so I don't want it to stiff. I'm using ZX struts with 510 springs with one coil cut off. I think it's around 110 lbs spring rate. Thinking of using t3 coilover with 150 lbs springs. Anyone using this spring? How do you like it? Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I put 150 on the front of Victorys red bluebird coupe with an n/a SR. The road up to the house is full of pot holes and totally jacked up and it road very comfortably. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Reese if your set up is good and got the look you want just leave it. Just buy a real good insert when it wears out Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 But it has no bling. Quote Link to comment
reese Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I am happy with my set up but want it another inch lower in the front. The way it is now the stock 510 spring perches are almost touching the top of the tire so I cannot lower them anymore. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I would go with lower tires. You could also fit 280ZX rears springs & cups which are smaller diameter. Aftermarket small-diameter coils give you the most flexibility when lowering. The only problem is finding normal spring rates but as mentioned 150 lbs are not too bad, and help with cornering as long as the rear is stiffened up too. Quote Link to comment
reese Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I have rebuilt whole front end and and have new 185/60/14 tires. Don't wanna go any smaller. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Yes don't go smaller that looks good just need the front moar lower. Quote Link to comment
reese Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Measured at the rocker the front is 1/2 lower. Needs moar. Quote Link to comment
reese Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 2" blocks in rear. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Alternatively you could raise the rear 1" Or maybe it sits more level in other photos? Quote Link to comment
reese Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 So I went for techno toy tuning = t3 coil overs with 150lbs springs. I had already rebuilt the whole front end 6 months ago so I pulled the struts out and tig welded the rings on for the threaded collar stops. I put it all back together in the middle of the threaded sleeve so it can adjuster 3.5" up or down from where it is now. It is a little over an inch lower in the front now from my last set up of ZX struts with stock 510 springs with one coil cut and perches as low as possible. It could go no lower with that set up. Now probably 3" lower in front than stock and 2" blocks in the rear. I added 1" bump steer spacers also. Tires are 185/60/14. Going to drive it for a week, see how everything works and if the height needs adjusting then tighten everything back up and get it aligned. This should be all I need chassis wise. By the way if you are thinking about coil overs, ONLY buy t3, they are made so nice, are great to go way low and the owner is very helpful. See y'all at Canby! Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 Because red sucks. 2 Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 I have an SR20 510 2 door set up for a streetable Auto-X car. It’s lowered, but not slammed by any means. It has a 6 point roll cage, Troy Ermish camber plates, his coils with 250lbs springs front and rear, bump spacers tuned for exact ride hight, 1 1/8 roll bar front, 3/4 rear, and spherical joints all round. I wouldn’t describe the ride as comfy, but it’s rock solid cornering with zero body roll or bump steer, and soaks up railroad crossings like there’s nothing there. You need to consider how you’re going to use your car and build it for that purpose. A super low street cruiser with coils might look the look, but it won’t be a comfy ride, and it will handle like a twitch little monkey. That’s the last thing you want If you plan on swapping an SR with anywhere near 10psi of boost. If you go that route I highly recommend a cage. The 510 was designed around a 100hp 90lb torque power plant, and although the mono-body is stout, 300hp will turn it into a pretzel right quick. I’ve owned a few 510s with good non-coil set ups, a L18 with manufacture rally suspension, a L20 slightly lowered track car, and drove a buddies goofy foot slammed 510 (scariest fuek’n thing I ever drove). All fun in their respective purpose, but something magic happens when you stiffen shit up and add coil overs, it’s like flipping the go switch on a dime. Personally I think it would be a serious waste of valuable resources to get coils so you can lower your car. There are cheeper and better ways to do that. You want street bling you’d do better to spend your money on sick rims, and a JDM grill. You want to drive your SR 510, I can recumbent Troys stuff from experience. The shit rocks. Quote Link to comment
reese Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 When I ordered the T3 I asked for an all black set up but red was the only option. Great quality package and at least you cannot see the red. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 I asked for pre anodized. Nope, stuck with ugly colors. I got camber plates too, which is the reason I got coilovers. I got the plates to help correct any issues I may have from the crash. Quote Link to comment
jser12 Posted May 17, 2014 Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 I have 250 in the front and 200 in the rears. Handles good. Not to hard, not to soft. I like the ride. Quote Link to comment
KyushaKai Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Because red sucks. What are you using to strip the anodizing? I need to do that to mine too. T3 red/maroon does not match my orange at all lol. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 drain opener. Its the amount of lye that does it. Quote Link to comment
yellow510 Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 just another vote of confidence for T3. i bought a set of the front 280zx coilovers for my dime and the powdercoating was clogging up the bolt holes on the bottom. they sent me a tap (at no charge) to chase the threads and clean them out. worked without a hitch. they even offered to replace them if the tap didnt work and the chance that the threads might be crossed. install went super smooth after the tap cleared out the powdercoating. kudos to T3 for great customer service and product support! Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.