jvb5577 Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 During my build I read a lot on here about people getting reman. MCs and them not working. Instead of wasting money I figured I would just rebuild my OE one. Its a win win! You get to keep your OE look but have a new MC! Tools you will need: + Flat head screw driver + 17mm wrench + 10mm wrench + A pick (black handle one in picture) + Needle nose pliers First you will use a 10mm wrench to remove the reservoirs. There are baskets inside of them to keep contaminants out of the system. You will now need the flat head screw driver to remove the ring and washer that holds the internals in. Take your 10mm wrench and remove the bleeder nipples and a flat head to remove the screw. Take your 17mm wrench and remove the bottom two nuts Now you can pull the pistons out of the MC. First one will have a dense spring The next one will have a spring that widens Here is what they look like inside the MC You can see how the rubber is warped and worn. Not good for keeping a seal! Now you will use your "pick" to brake the seal around the channel as shown Then take your needle nose pliers and remove the rubber guides. A spring will be attached to them. Now you will want to check your walls in your MC for grooves. If you see any then your MC is junk and you will have to get a new one. Mine was very clean. (Hard to see in the picture) If everything checks out, clean your MC with brake cleaner. Make sure to remove as much junk as you can. Now your ready to rebuild them! This is the kit I used. Raybestos MK1093 It contained all of this. Prelube your rubbers on your pistons so they slide into the MC easier. Just use brake fluid but make sure it is clean! *Remember flared spring goes first* Install the guides with springs and follow the instructions on the picture for the guides. *It matters what one goes where* Use your 17mm wrench to tighten back down the bottom nuts. This will compress everything back down. Install the washer and clip back into the front to hold the pistons inside. Replace the rubber washer with the new one supplied in the kit. *this goes on the screw* Use your 10mm and flat head screw driver to tighten everything back down Install your reservoirs *remember clap goes on then put reservoirs on* and tighten with a 10mm and put in your baskets and your done! 3 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Great write up! :) Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 awesome write up!!!!! Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Thanks guys! Hopefully it helps someone. 1 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 AWESOME write up.!!! Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Great pictures. You really ought to run a hone down the bore a few times though. This will get rid of most grooves or ridges. The ridges occur where the seals stop their travel, and three of those locations are too deep to be able to feel with your finger. You can pick one up at the local parts store. It plugs right into your electric hand drill. Use some honing oil with it. It usually comes with medium grit hones, but fine grit hones can be ordered. Quote Link to comment
elmerfudpucker Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 I motion that this gets pinned, very useful info! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
SS320 Posted October 12, 2013 Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 I motion that this gets pinned, very useful info! :thumbup: I would like to second that motion! Good pics and info. Well done. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 Great pictures. You really ought to run a hone down the bore a few times though. This will get rid of most grooves or ridges. The ridges occur where the seals stop their travel, and three of those locations are too deep to be able to feel with your finger. You can pick one up at the local parts store. It plugs right into your electric hand drill. Use some honing oil with it. It usually comes with medium grit hones, but fine grit hones can be ordered. My dad actually has one of these. (was wondering what you would use such a small hone for) now I know! I know what you are talking about deep in the MC. I used a dull dental pick to check these areas. The MC came out of a low miles truck and was in good working order when removed. I think if your MC is really bad to where you need to hone it, you should just toss it. Since they don't make larger rebuilds for a hone brake fluid will just squeeze by the rubbers and the walls. Just my two cents... This is the first one I rebuilt so we will see. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 Thanks guys. Eagle_Adam suggested I do a write up so without his suggestion this would have never been done! 1 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted October 14, 2013 Report Share Posted October 14, 2013 i only suggested... you followed thru! great info here, and even if its not posted in a lot there will be countless members and non-members that will read this and find it via Google!!! Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted October 14, 2013 Report Share Posted October 14, 2013 wow i wouldve never thought that wear could occur in the cylinder and to hone it down. interesting. only thing i would add (even though no one asked me) is to use gloves when handling brake fluid :P Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 14, 2013 Report Share Posted October 14, 2013 I have rebuilt wheel cylinders and lightly polished with fine steel wool. The last MC was the 15/16" from a zx and was spotlessly clean inside. The seals can wear the casting if dirt gets in. Always clean the reservoir caps off before removing to add fluid. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted October 14, 2013 Report Share Posted October 14, 2013 Great pictures. You really ought to run a hone down the bore a few times though. This will get rid of most grooves or ridges. The ridges occur where the seals stop their travel, and three of those locations are too deep to be able to feel with your finger. You can pick one up at the local parts store. It plugs right into your electric hand drill. Use some honing oil with it. It usually comes with medium grit hones, but fine grit hones can be ordered. Good info.Taking one step further,after you hone it,take a dentist pick and start feeling all over the bore.If it catches on anything,that is pitting from corrosion and the cylinder is junk-throw it out. The corrosion comes from water in the system. This is why brake systems need to be flushed on a regular basis. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Good info.Taking one step further,after you hone it,take a dentist pick and start feeling all over the bore.If it catches on anything,that is pitting from corrosion and the cylinder is junk-throw it out. The corrosion comes from water in the system. This is why brake systems need to be flushed on a regular basis. Flushing your brake system... who does that? :P Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 It gets flushed every time you have to replace all the wheel cylinders and the master. Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 I was taught the brake fluid should be flushed every year, but I've read that it should be flushed every 30,000 miles, which would equate to every two years. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 I was taught the brake fluid should be flushed every year, but I've read that it should be flushed every 30,000 miles, which would equate to every two years. Here in the Desert every two might work.In damper enviroments,the period needs to be shorter. 1 Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 How often do you say a MC should be rebuilt? I am curious to see how long this one lasts. Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Like anything on a car, they seem to last longer when they don't sit. A new master cylinder, I'd say it woud last past your ownership. A rebuilt unit.... Would be anyone's guess. Quote Link to comment
Trophy24 Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 The brake fluid service interval I have always worked with at the dealership is 2 years/or 30,000 miles. Quote Link to comment
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