jrock4224 Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 So I'm having trouble finding the tech info on the cam gear my l 20 and the setting for my milled head (.012) and new timing chain .... stock decking ...watched hainz vids but he never got to in depth to the subject...the how to hot rod yur Datsun book is vague on the topic too .... any pointers or links anyone can share..........so 1 , 2, or 3 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 i dont think you need to change it regardless if you had it milled...... or i did something wrong when i put the motor together that had a shaved U67 new chain = start on 1 right?!?!?!? Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 I ripped the head and paid no mind to where it was set to .....until it was a part and I was like dohhhhhh...so that's why I bought a new chain but my machinist who is a closet Datsun guy .......he attachs this card to my motor with how much he milled off and what not ...... told me its for when I set the cam gear on to compensate in differences...I was like dafuq.... watched the video again and read the topic in how to hot road your Datsun book ...... now im just wondering if I shoulda took note to where it was when I took it off... the timing chain looked good but to be safe I bought a new one for 38 bux to try and just start from square one ..... on hainz video he mentioned up to 15 tho u don't need to worry but I was kinda looking for more opinions and or links to read up on .... at this point I assumed was gonna start from scratch ....trying to get the head on tonight ....... waiting on a couple ka pumps but figured I would get the head on ... timing chain .....front cover and what not, I can stab the oil pump after its in if it start taking to long to get here....laecon hooked me up with the link a while back ......bikes done, now I need a long block done so I can tear my l16 out again ..... wtf im rambling again ... Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Have you tried fitting it yet or are you just asking ? Cuz if you get it on and the marks don`t line up ,, you move it one number and see if marks line up better... easy as that.. If your marks never line up ,,,,,, THEN you have a problem. Your worrying to much ,,, like Frankie says ,,, Relax . 2 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 fuck it man, the U67 head i put on was shaved and i did nothing different than any other motor rebuild.... follow the hainz vid Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Any idea on how much was taken off Adam....and did u use that blue shit on the head gasket he was talking about ? ...... And naner ....thank u ...your post is exactly what the title applies to ......damn it why didn't I think about it ...... Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 i used no blue ish on nothing..... grey silicone is the only thing that hits my motors the bottom of the U was missing on the U67 i put on Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Damn that's shaved......high compression and shit ....lol......so u used nothing on the head gasket .....on all the small block stuck I have never used anything ..... Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 nope, nada...... i do use some on the oil pan gaskets now in 2 places but not on the head gasket. Ive been told to put it on the HG where it meets the timing cover. And ive tried it both ways with the same result. no leaks Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Went for a quick pic link of cam to cam tower notch but couldn`t find it ,, maybe something like that with short description of line-up points (with pictures) should be made,, then made a sticky with no input from us,, locked if you will.. I do think that reading so many threads about it not working sometimes has the effect of scaring you.. But think how many zillions have been done and had no problems at all.. Nobody asks for help if nothing goes wrong,, right? I used to use indianhead gasket maker on my head gaskets ( back in the olden days of the 80s) but if head is a wipe-n-slap i have used Hainzs copper spray gasket stuff he mentions in video on gasket, let it dry and it worked,,, but it might have without it to i dunno... If head is newly shaved i just put (FELPRO) head gasket on dry. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Stock U67 head....new TC assembly Notice the sprocket is slightly ahead of notch on the cam thrust plate If your head is shaved....I would be tempted to advance the cam to No. 2 or No. 3 position. Advancing the cam also helps bottom end torque, nothing significant....but noticeable. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Motor accurately set at TDC.... As long as the V notch is under or very slightly to the right of the horizontal etch mark on the cam thrust plate behind, it you are good. Nothing else matters. Nothing. Motor is at TDC and cam is at 12 o'clock... what more do you need? BTW the horizontal line is worth 4 degrees of cam rotation.so maybe 2 degrees off... who cares on stock motor you won't feel anything. 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 So I'm having trouble finding the tech info on the cam gear my l 20 and the setting for my milled head (.012) and new timing chain .... stock decking ...watched hainz vids but he never got to in depth to the subject...the how to hot rod yur Datsun book is vague on the topic too .... any pointers or links anyone can share..........so 1 , 2, or 3 Use #2, that is the proper hole/mark for the L20b. If a lot was shaved from the head, then you might need to shim the cam towers, but that would likely mean you need to line bore it also, it just depends on how much was taken off, and where it was taken off. 1 Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Use #2, that is the proper hole/mark for the L20b. If a lot was shaved from the head, then you might need to shim the cam towers, but that would likely mean you need to line bore it also, it just depends on how much was taken off, and where it was taken off. I thought L20B's were set at No. 1 from factory??? No. 2 is for Z22s...Z24s I believe cam tower shims come in a minimum of .015 thickness..???.....no good for his app. Dropping a shaved head closer to the deck is somewhat like a stretched chain....check notches at TDC, advance cam to compensate if need be. The question is....how much has the head been shaved over the years???? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 #1 was for the L16 maybe the L18, all L20Bs were #2. As wayno stated start with #2 hole... it might be, after all, close enough. But if well off to the left looking from the front, then you will need to move to the #3 hole to get the V under the mark.. This is why there holes in the first place to allow adjustment for slack or in this case too long a chain from milling the head. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 I thought L20B's were set at No. 1 from factory??? No. 2 is for Z22s...Z24s I believe cam tower shims come in a minimum of .015 thickness..???.....no good for his app. Dropping a shaved head closer to the deck is somewhat like a stretched chain....check notches at TDC, advance cam to compensate if need be. As far as I know, L16s used #1 dowel hole/marks, the L20b used #2 dowel hole/marks, and I heard #3 was for the Z cars, but that is what I heard, I have not actually looked into that, as I do not own a Z car. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Good info to have!! Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 As far as I know, L16s used #1 dowel hole/marks, the L20b used #2 dowel hole/marks Good to know.....even though I have none of the above...... :D Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Good to know.....even though I have none of the above...... :D I put my LZ23 together using #2 dowel hole/marks, it runs great, lots of torque. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Posting to save this info in my content. Good stuff. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 I have always heard #2, also. Every motor I have redone has been set to 2. Always ran great! (cept one time a dowel broke and well fuck that motor in its face) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 L20s come from factory with #2 set. With a performance cam they really should be dialed in using a degree wheel but I say fuck and and put it to number 2. I had my head cut 15 on top and bottom=.030 and didnt really notice a big difference. also some OSK timming sets upper cam(mutihole) sprockers are a lttle loose on the dowl pin so take that in to consideration when dial motor up to Zero on crank and the sprocket V notch might be more to the right as you tighten the bolt. The Tsubaki timming sets are the best but havent found any new ones latly and got a lifetime supply already at my house. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 sigh ..... lol got the head on ... got the timng chain on 3 times lol ..... originally set it to 1 got it very close to lined up...moved it to 2 was worse .....noticed i had the cam off a tooth ...started over ......back to one ... closest to the mark its ever been....under the mark but to the left offset but still touching... .... the 620 manual said its 1 from the factory then moved to 2 and three wasn't used on the truck or 4cyl as it was a mark designed for 6 cyl...BUT.... here's the scratcher ... the manual dictates l 16 and l20 as different years and instructs in every facet of the motor ...Except the timing chain install ....... gonna tear it back off and set it to 2 and see if i can get to the right of it ....its very close right now .....i think i'm the first to shave this head as nothing on the casting is missing like adams.....the machinist said he took off .012 but didn't specify where... Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 some dick convinced me to put the pan on a week ago ..... well took that the fuck back off ......no way i could get the front cover on with the pan tight ...what the fuck was i thinking......lol glad i don't use pan gaskets....well kinda ... scrape scrape scrape... :crying: 1 Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Good info to have!! Good to know.....even though I have none of the above...... :D Posting to save this info in my content. Good stuff. my friend google had very little info on the cam set up so yes this info is invaluable.....i searched for days ....even read books...dafuq.....whats a book :confused: :angel: :ninja: Quote Link to comment
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