Eagle_Adam Posted August 14, 2013 Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 looks great! thats one of the things i want done but shops around here want too much... or im too cheap 1 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted August 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 you're probably like most everyone on this site... why pay someone when YOU KNOW you can do it yourself. Therefore it IS to exspensive. it's SO EASY to do.!! more than anything its practice & the key is LOTS & LOTS of water & I prefer to pull the glass also. Back when I was doing cars most the window seals were like our 620's, now they "glue" them in & the tint needs to be cut to size & placed, I've done many cars that way but I hate it. A lot of guys will say to put a dab of soap in the water to make it "slicker"... DON'T.!!! most soaps have ammonia or other chemicals that break down the adhesive over time. Ever see old window tint that is purple? Its the ammonia in glass cleaners that bleaches it AND cheap tint. They make specialized slicking agents to add to the water but you really don't need it. The films adhesive will be more than slick enough with plenty of water. Whats the going rate up there, out of curiosity? 1 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted August 14, 2013 Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 i only went into one shop but they wanted $350!!!!!!!!!!!!!! top quality materials, wont damage my car, warranty, blah blah blah since seeing yours im looking again for another shop 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted August 14, 2013 Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 Sorry for the late intro. I've been lurking here for a bit & have meant to start a build thread for awhile but I'm terrible with documenting progress. EDIT: I will do my best to try & keep this as chronological as possible. Long of the short is, I was quite excited when my son wanted to build a Datsun. My very first car was a B210 & I have a long love affair with them. His first "want" was a 510 but being that he needed a daily, it was out of his AND my price range. He quickly set his eyes on a 620 KC We watched & watched CL & finally one popped up. We struck a deal & off we drove. We brought it home & he immediately got to buffing out the abused paint. What did you use to make your paint shine?? 1 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted August 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 HOLY SHIT.!!! around here its about $100 for the back 3 windows on a car. I'm guessing around $80 for a 620 KC if you have installed glass in a 620, you can do it 1 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted August 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 Rubbing compound then wax. What did you use to make your paint shine?? 1 Quote Link to comment
paisa13 Posted August 14, 2013 Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 Truck is looking awesome! Paint still looks crisp! 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted August 14, 2013 Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 Rubbing compound then wax. That's thing came out mint bro looking nasty!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 SHIT.!!! did I rob that from your red truck.? No, but I will be robbing it from yours :D 2 Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Thanks man. I appreciate the input. I got all my parts at PnP. A buddy & I turned the rotors down to fit modern wheels. YOU WILL wait forever for a V6 D21, they weren't very common I've found. Exactly What I Did: Brakes Bell-Tech D21 Dropped Spindles (2wd 4cylinder spindles 85.6' thru 97') Hubs & the dust shields (if you want them) from any 85.6' thru 97' 2wd 4cylinder hardbody Calipers & Mounting brackets (keep the hardware) from a 85.6' thru 97' 4x4 Hardbody or Pathfinder Order new rotors for a 2wd D21 V6 truck. Ball joints Upper ball joints are the same from 78' to 97' ... Moog PN# K9022 Lower ball joints are the same from 78' to 85' ... Moog PN# K9045 You're probaly saying "but wait wait my spindle is now a D21 not 620/720" ... Don't worry, the only change to the lower ball joint (D21) was the way it attaches to the lower control arm NOT the spindle. You're 620 LCR is the controling factor with this part :) My master cylinder (13/16") & all my steering componants are stock. The 13/16" MC works great. Thanks for the list. Looks like I have everything except the hub and the ball joints. There is a V6 in San Jose and one in Modesto, but that is what PnP says and sometimes they are wrong. 1 Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Great looking truck! Red just looks so "right" on a 620! --carter 2 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted August 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Thanks guys appreciate the comments. :) nice, I feel honored, steal away :) No, but I will be robbing it from yours :D The 4cyl D21 hubs are a dime a dozen & the ball joints I would buy new. Thanks for the list. Looks like I have everything except the hub and the ball joints. There is a V6 in San Jose and one in Modesto, but that is what PnP says and sometimes they are wrong. 1 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted August 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 THANKS man.!!! What did you use to make your paint shine?? That's thing came out mint bro looking nasty!!! this is exactly what we used.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 all this info is why build threads rock man!!! keep at it, are we almost caught up or have you been holding out that long? 2 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted August 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 do'n truck stuff .... bored out of his mind helping his Gramma move Hauling crap My nephew loves riding out to the property edit: fix broken pics 3 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted August 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 We're getting close now. I scoured my comp for more pics but most were on my phone.... bummed all this info is why build threads rock man!!! keep at it, are we almost caught up or have you been holding out that long? 1 Quote Link to comment
K_trip Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 - removed - 2 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted August 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Thanks K_trip I've actually been having a good time posting :) I really wish my other phone hadn't died. I lost A LOT of great pics. 2 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 just my $0.02 - if you have a smartphone download the photobucket app - i snap photos and upload at the end of each night. Then i always have em 2 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted August 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 I'll look into it.!!! THANKS. just my $0.02 - if you have a smartphone download the photobucket app - i snap photos and upload at the end of each night. Then i always have em 1 Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Whoa sick! So much motivation. So you're saying if I buy those parts for the ball-joint/disc swap I DONT need any modified control arms? Just the upper and lower ball-joints? 1 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted November 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2013 Thanks man.!! Not sure if I understand your question entirely .... my truck is a 78' ball joint truck. I only swapped spindles & brakes & kept the original 78' ball joint control arms. Whoa sick! So much motivation. So you're saying if I buy those parts for the ball-joint/disc swap I DONT need any modified control arms? Just the upper and lower ball-joints? 1 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted January 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 So when we bought the truck the front windshield leaked BAD. You could tell it had been like that for awhile because of all the silicone & RTV bullshit used to try and stop the leak........ none of it worked. My biggest fear & why we kept putting it off, rust..!! I was dreading replacing all the rusted pinchwelds under the gasket......... beginning to cut out the dry brittle gasket... layers of RTV & other "sealant" & look at that TRASHED dash.!! much to my surprise there was ZERO rot... just very minimal surface rust that we cleaned up with a wire wheel & then primed & painted black. We taped it off & painted to the body like at the top edge & under the cowl. New little windshield wiper gaskets... Done & happy with the results... leak test passed with flying colors. While we were at it we cleaned up & swapped in a better dash & swapped in a new passengers seat...... thats a later update :) 3 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 what brand gasket did you use? 1 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted January 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Precision brand gasket from Route 66. Taiwan made but was good quality. I bought another one for my truck. 1 Quote Link to comment
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