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Everything posted by ohmrchristopher

  1. zero time and zero money. been putting everything into my motorcycle so that i have something to get to work with. possibly sourced a local 5spd. probably wont get into it till October :/
  2. pending i am able to get it loose, the what? it it a lack of oil? did something bend or break? I understand what is happening now but what is the WHY?
  3. no, I cannot get it over to 1st or 2nd, it sits in the middle. I have neutral 5th and reverse, like a sideways letter T
  4. i had that transmission in since march, been daily driving 40km every day all kinds of diving in between. Just did a drive to Vernon loaded with dirt bikes and gear, 100km round trip. Other than a little more noise and some vibration we cruised at 100-110km/h fine. After the trip I noticed it was hard to get into 4th, had to really ram it backwards. Fast Forward to Thursday night, drove to the country bar fine, drove home fine around 1 am, parked no problem, went to go to work next day at 8am and this is what happened. No noise, no grinding, pops, hums, whirrs or the like. Too long to
  5. Update: I am stuck in 1st gear We pushed the truck on the street and I was able to drive and turn it around but I am definitely in first gear. Still, can only select 5th and REV and "neutral" is still the gear engaged. I know nothing can be done from the outside, sigh. Can someone please give me a hand with what vehicles this transmission was in? Mike said it's a FS5W71B but when I check http://www.midwesttrans.com/what_fs5w71.html there is no "B" model.
  6. I can select 5th and reverse, but releasing the clutch cause the truck to bog and stall. Releasing the clutch in "neutral" causes the truck to move forward. (of course I parked facing the fence, so I'm pinned) 1973 620 truck 1975 L20B new rebuild w/ 3000km 1985 FS5W71B 5spd Everything I'm reading says its all internal and I best be looking for a new transmission....
  7. so what does one do for the shifter cover? conveniently if i flip in 180 degrees it still covers the shifter hole. do you guys just redrill the bolt pattern and use it as is? I still think my oil pump/distributor timing is a tooth off. both the distributor plate and the pedestal are in the advanced spots (full clockwise on the plate, full counter-clockwise on the pedestal) I cannot retard the timing at all without the truck stalling and dying. i'm going wait till it cools of and check it again :/ other then that i think everything is good!
  8. Hey yeah so its in and working.... i have a bad exhaust leak cause the exhaust is touching the transmission and so it rattles alot. thanks for all the help and especially those dimension charts. any time you wanna come up and hang out scooter just pm and let me know!
  9. I now have an exhaust leak at the manifold. im going to see about having it machined flat at both ends.
  10. See that was my initial confusion. The crank pulley was 0 degrees, the keyways were up, the valves were 10 and 2 and everything seems like TDC but I couldn't get the "bright" link to land on the #1 dot. I hand cranked it 30 times, would hit the #2 and #3 but never #1 it was always a link out. And I thought the cam gear V notch had to line up with the mark on the cam plate, not be to either side so that also didn't help. :( it's not a very difficult task to line up the links so I'm still confused on that mater but I'm glad it runs. Now I just need to tune
  11. So that first picture was in my Haynes but it was such poor quality I couldn't make it out. There is a pin hole on the oil pump and on the drive shaft. Its stupid because it just moves anyways. I'm still not sure about the chain, I swore I got it right but I think I was actually two teeth off on the oil pump. Sigh I didn't really enjoy pulling the accessory case off. Anyways my coworker (used to work at Nissan and race 510s) said it sounded like an oil pump tooth being out. Long story short it runs!! But has a exhaust leak at the head and I still have to fill the transmissi
  12. Ok it was out a bit. Um so when 1 is at TDC and its 0 degrees on the timing plate the chain marks line up and the cam sprocket is up and when you look through the cam sprocket to the cam align plate there is a indent that aligns with a notch on the cam sprocket right?? And then I align the two dots on the oil pump, stick it up through the front cover and it should be 5 deg off the bolt holes for the distributor with the small part to the front of the engine yes?? The why the fuck now is the NO 1 cylinder at the back of then engine on the distributor cap? I thought it was at the fr
  13. So i can only guess the chain itself is off a tooth but the timing is all together?
  14. well as usual i am having trouble getting the new l20 to run and fire. I have 130 psi compression in all four cylinders, and i have fuel in the Weber. i popped off the valve cover to find my timing is out, i think. I could have swore i set it all perfectly but now i dont know. the crank is a TDC on the number one, the cams are 2 and 10 and the No. 1 is up, but the "bright" link is off a tooth :( Im also not sure about the oil pump/distributor drive
  15. Who would have thought centimetres would make that much of a difference. Whoops. Now I need a longer speedo cable because the speedo drive is not only furthar back on the 5 speed but also on the opposite side of the truck. Any PN? I'm guessing a '75 620?
  16. Using those charts that Len posted I measured my longest TO collar and its 52.5mm which is used on '74 and up 225mm clutches. I bought a '75 clutch kit for a 225mm flywheel. I have the clutch fork that came with the 5 speed. So it seems to me that I have all the correct parts this time around. The first time I did the instal I unknowingly used the 200mm TO collar and the bearing for new 225mm clutch kit. That didn't work. The second time I attempted the install I used a 240mm TO collar with the bearing that came with it. It was a little thinner than the bearing that came with th
  17. Thanks Mike. What was the bell housing and the transmission out of again for clarification.
  18. The L16 and 4 speed had a 200mm flywheel, the L20 also came with a 200mm flywheel (and the donor 610 has a 4 speed). So if I want to go back to the 4 speed I'll just have to buy another new clutch kit cause I have all the working parts for that. This is what I am thinking. I did try to use the 200mm 4 speed TO collar on the 225mm flywheel in the 5 speed transmission, not knowing you need to match the parts. Mike then sent me two TO collars, one slightly taller, 1/8th", AND I bought a 240mm collar from Lordoc because my coworker who used to race 510 remembers machining, or making sp
  19. OK when the fuck did image shack shit out on the size of pictures you can use?! Sorry for the bad pictures I thought it was just cause I was using my phone.
  20. I've been working on this for a week now and still can't figure it out and feel bad for bugging Mike The stats: 1973 620 1975 L20b from a 610 1985.5? 5 speed via Mike 225mm flywheel (unknown) and new clutch kit w bearing 2 release forks, old 4 spd and matching fork for 5 spd 4 collars, 200mm 4 spd, two 225mm collars (one is an 1/8th taller) and a 240mm collar from Lordco. I have the L20 200mm flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate. The problem: I can't get the release bearing close enough to the pp fingers to engage the clutch. By the time the release bearing is even
  21. Hey so what was the issue here? I just put an l20 and a 85 5 speed in my '73 truck. It had a l16 and 4 speed. I'm having the same issue where the clutch fork isn't touching the slave cylinder. The 5 speed didn't come with a fork or collar so I used the one off the 4 speed. I'm already guessing the collar is the wrong length cause the l16 would have a 200mm flywheel and pressure plate and the l20 has a 225mm. F*ck
  22. Can some one please tell me how to wire my hazard switch to a modern three pole switch? My clamshell has crumbled to bits. I'm going to put my ignition in the cig lighter spot and put the hazard switch in the little choke hole. I was looking at my wiring diagram, and I know what's going on but I don't know how to alter it. I don't need to have the turn signals in the dash flash cause I would like to have the lighted switch do that. But it's so tied in with the brakes and turn signals it's making my head hurt.
  23. Thanks Mike! Hopefully we see these bearings next week.
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