2.1L Long rod

[Sealik]

Z22 Blocks Have Different Water Ports

Machine Shop I Was Talking To Said

One Side Of The Motor Will Wear Out Faster

 

Have Also Read Z Blocks Are More Prone To Cracking

 

Do explain......

Not sure if you're referring to the lack of coolant passages on the passenger side of motor...if so...those are drilled out to keep cylinder wall temps even

 

[Zeusimo]

Z20 And L20b Blocks Are Basically The Same

The Z22 Blocks Have Coolant Ports Like A KA24e

[DISLEXICDIME]

there are also 2 different z22 blocks

[Sealik]

Z20 And L20b Blocks Are Basically The Same

The Z22 Blocks Have Coolant Ports Like A KA24e

 

A stock Z22 has no coolant ports on the passenger side...well...actually one near the front

 

 

This is the Z24

 

Pretty sure the KAs coolant passages are configured somewhat the same.

 

There are two Z22 blocks...one from the truck and one from the car.

The truck block is reported to have a better casting to bore to 89mm

Done it....no issues

[datzenmike]

mine was Rebello built 2146 cc

specs I am not exact on but this is what I have heard

L20 block and crank  6 inch long rods  KA24e pistons A87 head ported and pollished with a custom ground cam somewhere around 256/490

makes decent HP somewhere around 150 and 150 torque it is fun to drive

pulls hard from 3500 to 7000 I love it

.

This may be some secret Rebello combination and he's not filling in all the details on, and I get that.. but as described this combo won't work. An L20B crank from center line to center line of the rod is 1/2 the stroke, or 86/2= 43mm, the Z20E long rods are 152.5mm, the KA pistons are 34mm tall. This adds to 229.5mm The L20B block is only227.45mm tall so the piston tops are sticking out above the deck by over 2mm!!!

 

Maybe he trims the KA pistons by this amount?

 

The other thing is boring an L20B block by removing 2mm is risky. Take a look behind the dip stick handle, does it say L20B? I would suspect a Z20 block with thicker walls was used.

 

 

 

And again we (myself included) are wandering away from the original OP's question about the 2.1

[Z-train]

the Lz will need big carbs

No it will not.

[defdes]

What cam/carb were you running? That motors freakin powerful!

Dual 44 Mikuni's, cam was 510 lift, don't remember the duration, really great motor as you can hear/see.

[Ranman72]

.

This may be some secret Rebello combination and he's not filling in all the details on, and I get that.. but as described this combo won't work. An L20B crank from center line to center line of the rod is 1/2 the stroke, or 86/2= 43mm, the Z20E long rods are 152.5mm, the KA pistons are 34mm tall. This adds to 229.5mm The L20B block is only227.45mm tall so the piston tops are sticking out above the deck by over 2mm!!!

 

Maybe he trims the KA pistons by this amount?

 

The other thing is boring an L20B block by removing 2mm is risky. Take a look behind the dip stick handle, does it say L20B? I would suspect a Z20 block with thicker walls was used.

 

 

 

And again we (myself included) are wandering away from the original OP's question about the 2.1

you know to much

I am not sure on specifics I bought it second hand and when I had the carbs tuned at Rebello I didnt ask specifics on the motor

but he verified it was built at Rebello and told me 155 HP on the dyno and torque was close to the same

everyone who works there sais Dave doesnt write any thing down  ALL THE SPECS are in his head

 

cant read the numbers even tried to do the paper and pencil thing and still cant read them

is there an easy way to ndistinguish a z block from an L block everything I see sais L20b 2 bolts at the top on the timeing cover and looks same as L16

[datzenmike]

Well if it's a Z20/22 block the ID is on the distributor side about half way back where the #2 and #3 exhaust ports are on the head, but below that on the block. It may not be possible to see it because of the exhaust manifold.

 

[GreaseMonky]

i plan on doing a long rod LZ, Z20E block, rods, crank, bored to 88mm, running +1mm oversize Vg30e pistons, A87 closed chamber head with .040 shaved from head, port, polish, 44mm intake valves, 35mm exhaust, in one piece stainless, undercut, swirl polished, isky springs, cam specs are, 483 lift, 251 degree @.050 on a 108 lobe seperation

[akawes]

Well even though this has gone off topic. Lol. There's alot of good info coming. Apparently so far you guys prefer the z block to l block for this. I would have to bore out the l block by 2mm. If that makes the block iffy on reliability than I will have to change the block I'm going to use because the motor is for a daily with occasional spats of "fun" driving.

[metalmonkey47]

Keep in mind using the Z block puts the dipstick tube on the other side of the motor, where the manifolds are. 

 

Not sure what a good solution is for this. 

[datzenmike]

Check your oil before you start it up. :lol:

[datsunaholic]

There's a boss on the other side of the engine, at least on Z20 blocks.  Drill it out, add passenger side dipstick tube.   Plug or crimp off driver's side one.  EZ.

[Sealik]

Well even though this has gone off topic. Lol. There's alot of good info coming. Apparently so far you guys prefer the z block to l block for this. I would have to bore out the l block by 2mm. If that makes the block iffy on reliability than I will have to change the block I'm going to use because the motor is for a daily with occasional spats of "fun" driving.

 

I prefer the Z22....<... blocks (LZ23) because that's all I got....lol

That said.... it's better to start with a little more displacement. I then can limit any pricey mods to the engine and still have the same HP.... or a little more....relative to the smaller L block

 

Keep in mind using the Z block puts the dipstick tube on the other side of the motor, where the manifolds are. 

 

Not sure what a good solution is for this

 

I kept mine in the stock locale....just had to bend the dipstick a smidge to clear the EM/heat shield...no biggie.

Then dumped in the appropriate amount of oil into the engine and re-calibrated the dipstick

[akawes]

I might just have to bite the bullet and just build one out of pull and pay/ junkyard part and just see what happens.

[datzenmike]

Z22 Blocks Have Different Water Ports

Machine Shop I Was Talking To Said

One Side Of The Motor Will Wear Out Faster

.

Just drill holes in the block as needed

.

Have Also Read Z Blocks Are More Prone To Cracking

.

This is more pronounced on the larger Z24. Cracks are over rated. Never heard of a car or truck pulled off the road from cracks. Usually cracks are found when rebuilding.... so how was this motor on the road before this???? Yeah it ran just fine only wore out. Cracks are a stress relief and probably most L and Z series have them after 50K miles if you look hard enough.... doesn't mean it won't work or even get worse. Doug show them your welded up cracks!!!

 

there are also 2 different z22 blocks

Up to the end of the '81 production year the 11010-06W80 block was used in the 720. After that, all 720 and 200sx Z22s used the same 11010-D8180 block.

[Sealik]

 Doug show them your welded up cracks!!!

 

 

 

 

 

No cracks here....maybe the odd flash while I'm plumbing and or.... :lol:

Low mile block.....90K on it

Was magnafluxed at the machinme shop due to sitting, freezing temps in winter etc.

Wasn't going to dump a bunch of money into an engine with limited history

 

 

[datzenmike]

Wasn't this yours???

[Sealik]

Wasn't this yours???

 

I believe that is/was HRH's

[Ranman72]

Well if it's a Z20/22 block the ID is on the distributor side about half way back where the #2 and #3 exhaust ports are on the head, but below that on the block. It may not be possible to see it because of the exhaust manifold.

 

pretty damn sure mines an L because I don't remember seeing that when the manifolds were off 

[Son_of_a_Datsun_Guy]

I have both an L20 and a Z22 block sitting around. After having extended conversations with Troy Ermish, who builds anything from a rave L16 to a 2.3 bored Z22 I've decided to run the L20 block with a Z22 crank and a worked over U67 open chamber head. Troy has told me that the LZ hybrid motors have some shakes, and I'm really not looking forward to that, so I'm sticking to the L20's guns. 

 

My goal is 140hp/140lbs torque with SUs (real SSS round tops). The beauty of the motor plan is that it will hopefully run well with the SUs and still be able to make even more power and run well with Mikunis later down the road when I decide that time has come. I'm really shooting for a good, torquey street motor that will go 100,000+ miles with out catastrophically failing. 

 

After all is said and done I believe the motor will be closer to a 2.1L as many of you are looking for. 

[Sealik]

This is interesting...

My bored Z22 with 7 coolant holes drilled

 

 

Z22(?) with those holes also drilled out....almost looks like a Z24 deck

 

 

Z24 block

 

 

And the L20B

 

 

[akawes]

I have both an L20 and a Z22 block sitting around. After having extended conversations with Troy Ermish, who builds anything from a rave L16 to a 2.3 bored Z22 I've decided to run the L20 block with a Z22 crank and a worked over U67 open chamber head. Troy has told me that the LZ hybrid motors have some shakes, and I'm really not looking forward to that, so I'm sticking to the L20's guns. 

 

My goal is 140hp/140lbs torque with SUs (real SSS round tops). The beauty of the motor plan is that it will hopefully run well with the SUs and still be able to make even more power and run well with Mikunis later down the road when I decide that time has come. I'm really shooting for a good, torquey street motor that will go 100,000+ miles with out catastrophically failing. 

 

After all is said and done I believe the motor will be closer to a 2.1L as many of you are looking for.

 

well then it sounds to me like an l20b block and a v912 head for me. If I can find a v912 head.

[GreaseMonky]

I like the z20e block, i had no issues taking it out .120, and was considering going to .160, and the Z20E crank is fully counterweight, so that helps with the shakes