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gokiburix

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Wag- liking the new stance. ?...is there a way to correct the camber?

 

Yeah... The problem I was having is at full lock, the wheels JUST grazed the fiberglass lip on my flared fenders. I'm grinding those out this weekend, and I'll pull the camber back out to fill the flares again!

 

Thanks, though, I've been attacking my rear fenders with Chris' sledge and grinder since I lowered it, and I'm soooo close now!

 

Update, I polished all 4 wheels the other day! They look 5x better. I finished them off with some Ray's Lock Nuts anodized red. Sadly, I want to sand the wheels down and re-polish them, because there's some pitting/oxidation on them that didn't buff out. Also, the lug nuts go back up for sale in a week or two because I'm getting extended studs... Open to trade for open-ended nuts!

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...I've been attacking my rear fenders with Chris' sledge and grinder since I lowered it, and I'm soooo close now!

 

Wag, love the intercooler. I've been thinking about cutting out my rear fenders and doing some surgery back there so I can actually run wheels with a lip but the sledge hammer sounds like a great idea. Do you plan to do some sort of flare in the back to match the front?

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OIL COOLER. Any amount of air coming through -8 AN fittings and line would suck for forced induction... unless it were on a Honda! =D

 

I've been contemplating cutting out the wheel wells, but leaving the stock "lip" above the arch, and tubbing them a hair/flaring them out a bit. But that's not bosozoku enough for The Boso Goon! I'll be cutting the majority of it out, including part of the door, probably, and riveting a big sheetmetal flare on. Read up on my build thread for my plans....

 

As far as the sledge, it's a whore! One area is so reinforced (quarter panel, door panel, rocker panel and wheel tub all meet in one spot! Right at the TOP of the arch) it's hard to knock out of the way enough for clearance. I honestly think that with any amount of "tuck" from the tires, _x7.5 +0 is the widest wheel/deepest dish you can go on a "stock body" 510 Wagon. Mine are 15x7 -12, which is about the same as 15x7.5 +0 and it doesn't rub anymore, but I might have more drop, too....

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Do you have any pictures of them on the car? Or next to something for a size reference? Let me know, I'm down for some Goon-age!

 

I'll try to get some pic's of mine they are just right.

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hey LEX, let me have them there wheels. :D :cool:

Nice goon

 

they belong to the 510 goon :P

These are the corolla wheels I just can't justify buying tires right now lol

333yjck.jpg

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they belong to the 510 goon :P

These are the corolla wheels I just can't justify buying tires right now lol

333yjck.jpg

 

Dude you suck :lol:

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Dude you suck :lol:

 

yeah the 510 wagon still doesn't run :( I want my beastly wagon. The toyota is nice and slow and the carb is shot, but once you get it going it runs like a champ

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Do you have any pictures of them on the car? Or next to something for a size reference? Let me know, I'm down for some Goon-age!

 

Here ya go Wag.

goonsticker006.jpg

goonsticker007.jpg

This is the one on the back glass. Pic kinda sucks.

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I'd been having some bad times with the diff hitting the floor because I'm so low in the back. Axle wrap was minimal before it was hitting, sometimes even just starting from a stop would be enough to buzz me. Finally it was time to fix it!

 

I cut a hole in the floor, and extended it until it looked to be just larger than the right size. A quick trip around the block told me there was no more banging/grinding.... Even doing a quick burnout! Perfect! Home Depot only had 6"x18" sheets of steel, so I picked up two of them and started warming up my arm for the hammer..

 

The first sheet was bent to try to give it the right "hump", and then the sides were bent down to give me some material to connect the sides to the top. I kind of did the poor man's metalworking. Wooden bench, shop rag for padding under the metal, and a hammer to do the work! It worked though, it just took a lot of pounding! (Quick question, typically you use a leather bag filled with sand, right?) I screwed it to the floor, and took the car on another quick run. Still no banging, even on the new plate. Possibly a hint of scraping on the launch, but very minimal, maybe repositioning would fix it?

 

Once the top was formed, I used some cardboard to make a template for one side so it would need minimal bending. A quick check against the other side agreed. Cut them out of the other piece of sheet metal, hammered them flush against the sides of the top, and tacked them together. Laid down a few quick beads and decided I liked the "raw" look with the heat discoloring than I liked the "painted" look. So for now it's staying raw!

 

IMG_1374.jpg

 

I can drive again! No more rubbing, banging, clanging, grinding... I'll probably end up welding this down, but I want to unscrew it and reposition it to see if it fixes the little "brushing" sound I can hear when I launch hard. If not, I'll forget about it and weld it in!

 

Seat down, very slight angled up in the back. More hammering and maybe some cutting will fix that!

IMG_1375.jpg

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It was crazy easy, the hardest part is making yourself do it. It really helps having someone under the car telling you where the brake lines are (they're kinda close to the tunnel) just in case. Other than that, it was just a lot of hitting metal to make it fit right. I'll take some better pics soon.

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Haven't had it long, but I'm already loving it. I wanted to get some halfway decent pics before posting on this thread. It's no where near as nice as the other ones here, but at least I washed it:D

 

It's just a daily driver for now, but I'd like make some pretty major changes in the future.

 

IMG_4393.jpg

 

I started a project thread here:

 

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=11390

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Mine's lower.

:lol:

 

LOL! I think I voiced my opinion in your build thread already, but it's a clean lil' Goon! Don't rattle can it like this guy :rolleyes: !!

 

What are your plans?

 

Not much in the short term. Mostly practicle stuff. Brakes, bearings, etc. The first big thing will probably be a 5 speed. After that I'll probably lower it. I'm still learning about lowering options for the front end. I put blocks on the back of my 521, so I can do that on the goon too, but the front end isn't quite as easy as my pickup was.

 

After that I'd like to get some Panasports or Rotas with gunmetal spokes. I probably won't do a major engine change. L20 maybe. I thought I'd stick with the 16, but I think some mini vans could beat me off the line if they wanted to.:eek:

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I'd been having some bad times with the diff hitting the floor because I'm so low in the back. Axle wrap was minimal before it was hitting, sometimes even just starting from a stop would be enough to buzz me. Finally it was time to fix it!

 

I cut a hole in the floor, and extended it until it looked to be just larger than the right size. A quick trip around the block told me there was no more banging/grinding.... Even doing a quick burnout! Perfect! Home Depot only had 6"x18" sheets of steel, so I picked up two of them and started warming up my arm for the hammer..

 

The first sheet was bent to try to give it the right "hump", and then the sides were bent down to give me some material to connect the sides to the top. I kind of did the poor man's metalworking. Wooden bench, shop rag for padding under the metal, and a hammer to do the work! It worked though, it just took a lot of pounding! (Quick question, typically you use a leather bag filled with sand, right?) I screwed it to the floor, and took the car on another quick run. Still no banging, even on the new plate. Possibly a hint of scraping on the launch, but very minimal, maybe repositioning would fix it?

 

Once the top was formed, I used some cardboard to make a template for one side so it would need minimal bending. A quick check against the other side agreed. Cut them out of the other piece of sheet metal, hammered them flush against the sides of the top, and tacked them together. Laid down a few quick beads and decided I liked the "raw" look with the heat discoloring than I liked the "painted" look. So for now it's staying raw!

 

IMG_1374.jpg

 

I can drive again! No more rubbing, banging, clanging, grinding... I'll probably end up welding this down, but I want to unscrew it and reposition it to see if it fixes the little "brushing" sound I can hear when I launch hard. If not, I'll forget about it and weld it in!

 

Seat down, very slight angled up in the back. More hammering and maybe some cutting will fix that!

IMG_1375.jpg

 

WagDatto,

 

Looks good.:D

 

It'll probably be a while before I lower mine, but I've been looking through all the posts of modified driveline tunnels. Has anyone cut the center part of the rear seat pan out, and welded in a recess to fit down over the raised tunnel so the seat sits at the stock angle? I don't remember seeing any like that.

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