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Another 620 KA24DE swap, slow but steady...


mantas

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Tucked away some of those nasty wires and replaced the crappy knock sensor...this is just a temporary fix until everything else is put back into place.

 

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Ours dogs didn't want to get out of bed this morning because it was cold for them HAHAHA.

 

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It's quite cold for LA and since the homes are made out of tracing paper it always feels like you are sleeping outdoors.

 

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Tucked away some of those nasty wires and replaced the crappy knock sensor...this is just a temporary fix until everything else is put back into place.

 

4BA7599C-DF35-46D3-9D97-DC83626A3BB3-755

 

3FCE55B7-D9F1-4E10-9F97-BFFB5682E025-755

 

3B7DA0BC-0CA1-4B7F-8505-A507C9347316-755

 

673504BC-B3D1-4652-9DB4-3C10D79FAF50-755

 

Ours dogs didn't want to get out of bed this morning because it was cold for them HAHAHA.

 

5FBDE025-D54E-4FA4-84A6-79BC273D19D4-755

 

It's quite cold for LA and since the homes are made out of tracing paper it always feels like you are sleeping outdoors.

 

0F706010-E4B8-41FD-8A06-9457AD522B6D-755

7 degrees try switching your cel to fer..lol

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Cute pups :D

 

HAHA. They are indeed and thanks.

 

Here is some more updates, had to pull the mani, seems like it had a water/oil leak and may be a few other leaks but can't tell by the looks of the gasket.

 

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BROKE the EGR solenoid, do i still need this or can i leave it unplugged and cap off the vac hoses? Anyone know?

 

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Don't want to be a dick but that weld job is never going to last.

 

HAHA, We know that, we basically just want the truck to be quiet enough so we can test it without waking up the whole neighborhood. Well the intake manifold did not fix squat, i plugged in the Vac gauge and i have a steady 15hg or whatever the reading is - guess there are no leaks....Only thing i can think of is bad throttle that leaks only when opened. May be the MAF but i have two and both do the same crap, however when it is unplugged the engine does run smoother. Might try to run some wires directly from the ECU to the MAF tomorrow.

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Took my mafs to a friends house and they are perfectly fine. However when we unplugg his maf and rev the engine it does exactly what mine does, problem is in the wiring. In the process of tearing that apart hopefully i find the culprit.

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I know ive been away for a bit but this surgery recovery has been a bit tough. So basically i have not been able to work on the truck but tonight i brought up the ka harness to the house to rewire, and bingo. Found out one of the maf wires had no continuity at the plug, replaced it, going to button up a few other things then ill get to work later next week if i feel better. Ill pull some pics up tomorrow for the wiring mess.

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AT LAST!!!

 

MAF wiring fixed and she runs like she should. At first start up it was still bogging out so i cleared the ECU codes and plugged in IACV and bam! Revs like it should and i'm sure soon enough it will drive like it should. Anyways this post surgery crap has my work limited to light lifting and just focusing on small tasks in general. Been in a lot of pain but this wiring crap kept my head straight.

 

Also i snapped some pix of the datsun while it was out of the garage, enjoy.

 

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All that electrical tape...

 

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JUST GET THE CAR STARTED ALREADY!!! (As she points her finger at me)

 

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At this point i was thinking - is this going to take all freaking day?

 

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Nose shot

 

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Here is another one with the sun doing its thing to the camera - B)

 

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All cleaned up and ready to go.

 

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Looks small next to that chevy truck....

 

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That bed gate is such garbage, by luck i found one on CL that was identical color with white letter and said 5-speed on the side, the bloak that answered said it was sold.....damn it!!

 

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keep it coming.soon you will be burning rubber and tearing honda's a new asshole.

 

LMAO

 

Hopefully the stock diff holds up. I've heard the diff can't handle the KA powwaaa! So i might upgrade that before i start beating on it.

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LMAO

 

Hopefully the stock diff holds up. I've heard the diff can't handle the KA powwaaa! So i might upgrade that before i start beating on it.

 

 

The rear should be good for a while. Truck looks good, except the tailgate weirdeness :lol:

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The rear should be good for a while. Truck looks good, except the tailgate weirdeness :lol:

 

Tell me about it. It had a plastic cover behind the letters so basically it was a brake light but i'm not really digging that look. Going to keep my eyes open for a tailgate locally.

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u should put some tinted acrylic it then back light the tail gate with some led's hooked to your running lights.....i was always a big fan of the mazda truck that cut his tailgate letters out then put a small fish tank behind it ......pretty sue it was just for shows .... but still the creativity...

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Well i got the radiator "brackets" welded in. Only took a few mins to do and the weld job is absolute crap but it holds if i hammer it so i'll let it be for now. That crap welder we bought supposedly does an ok job but the wire needs to be replaced with .035 or whatever the hell it is. Anyways i'm stuck on the center link. I got the Gofreit inserts, had them put in, but the center link is too small for the inserts, so the balljoint bottoms out and then the arm has no free play. Now i don't know whether to look for some different inserts or to try and build a center link with rod ends and some DOM tubing.....like racecar :w00t:

 

Anyways here are a few pix.

 

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SPLAT SPLAT.... :poop:

 

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BTW that is a nissan 240sx 95 radiator. I sold the one i got with the swap thinking it would not fit. Then read somewhere that someone was able to shove it in, so bought a new one exactly the same and made a few bux off the trade - aint that a deal! I tested it before making the brackets and the hood closes, only problem will be the bumper but that i can live without for a little bit.

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So the inserts have a different taper than the center link? If so, you should be able to build a new center link with Jeep CJ tie-rod ends and some DOM.

 

 

 

That is exqctly what ill try doing today. Hard to find the tubing but i know of one place that definitely has it. Then ill have to figure out how to get a bit to reverse the threads lol.

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If those brackets for the radiator are galvanized, thats probably why its not welding so good. if not then nevermind my input. Oh and just lookin out for ya, the fan fasteners that go through the radiator will probably end up tearing a hole in the core later. it happens all the time. then your stranded or you blow your head gasket.

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If those brackets for the radiator are galvanized, thats probably why its not welding so good. if not then nevermind my input. Oh and just lookin out for ya, the fan fasteners that go through the radiator will probably end up tearing a hole in the core later. it happens all the time. then your stranded or you blow your head gasket.

You are correct sir, they are galvanized. I had no options but to buy that crap, they were a perfect fit for what i had in mind and i honestly didnt even think that galvanized steel would not stick. But they are holding pretty good, considering some good whacks with a hammer didnt knock them out of place haha. Eventually ill redo that whole bracket system since i want the front bumper on the truck. And as for the fastners, i used some simple screws for a few of them and the rest are zip ties, and i definitely would not doubt the fact that it will rip that radiator to shreds or the zip ties might melt from the heat lol. Good thing you pointed it out, ill have to come up with a better solution for this once its running and driveable.

 

As for the progress, i was able to finish up the wiring except for the two KA alternator wires. Ill splice on of them (white/red) into the ignition then do a 7.5 amp fuse and back to the cluster. Im hoping that will work lol. As for the yellow wire from the alternator i have no idea what to do with that yet, from reading forums and the fsm ive yet to find a solution. Fsm says it is wired to a connector with a 7.5 amp fuse and then straight to the battery, people on forums suggest it needs to be grounded - sounds wrong to me. Anyone have ideas on how to hangle these two things? Ive also finished the rounting of the fuel pump hoses and ill snap up some photos tomorrow so hopefully it can be of some use for other KA swap candidates. Overall i must say the wiring and the swap are not very complicated but time consuming. And ive learned quite a but about wiring which is always a good thing to know when working on cars lol.

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The more I want to keep my L18 the more KAs I see... Lovin the build, keep it going :)

I loved my dato with the l18. I cant even imagine the KA. It was my original plan, so after some carb and dizzy issues with the l18 i threw in the towel. Thanks for the comment and stay tuned there is plenty more to come.

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Just a few more random pix.

 

Got the windshiled wiper arms from China. Took 2 months but i got them.

 

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Got the harness in place, finally....

 

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Got this mess cleaned up as well. But this is the before pic for now...

 

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Took a few pix outside because a friend asked me to text him a few...

 

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Cleaned out the inside and put the seat belts in for the passanger so whoever sits shotgun doesn't have to be too scared to ride in this frankenstein

 

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