LZ22 or L20B

[Sealik]

95% of threads about LZ hybrids are all talk no action....

 

Lame Sauce.

 

JUST DO IT!

 

 

Here's your 5%.... :D

 

As of today.....LZ23

 

 

A little sauce...back in tomorrow

[wayno]

I am one of the 5% also, mine is built for torque.

I have never had an L20b or a LZ23 that had any usable power above 5000rpms, I have said this before, to get 6000rpms, I would have to floor it in neutral.

I am very happy with my LZ engine, when I had to go back to the low mile L20b for a while, I was not happy.

7 to 8 K out of a L20b/Lz22/3, unless you have an accurate tach, I wouldn't beleave it without seeing it myself, I suppose with the right cam, things could be differant, like dramaticly changing the power band/envolope to a much higher RPM, but that is something I know very little about.

[EricJB]

Me three. It runs and pumps oil. I dont know how well or for how long. We shall soon see.

 

Wayno, before I put the rev limiter on the L20, My Autometer monster would hit 7400 laying rubber in front of the house.haha It's true.

 

[Dime Dave]

4th, another one of the 5%. Here is the short block. Z22 w/89mm custom Wiseco pistons (16cc dish).

 

 

It uses a Datsun Comp head with 45cc chambers.

 

[fisch]

I haven't drivin mine much, but the PO drove it to hell and back. My uncle was over the other day, and I fired it up and he couldn't believe that sound came from a 4-banger.

 

Here is a vid from a while back shaking the car!

LZ22 vid

[Dime Dave]

Quick note, when using an L series head on the Z22 block you will need to add the water passage holes on the right side of the block. My short block as pictured above does not have these holes. Eric's does (L20B block I beleive).

 

Here is a link discussing it and showing a modified headgasket and the holes needed.

L Head to Z22 Block

[datzenmike]

This is Byron's LZ22 from a few years ago. The carb one only made 6 less hp. This is EFI and an unknown cam. I believe he said he felt he should shut it down at 6,500

 

[EricJB]

Quick note, when using an L series head on the Z22 block you will need to add the water passage holes on the right side of the block. My short block as pictured above does not have these holes. Eric's does (L20B block I beleive).

 

Here is a link discussing it and showing a modified headgasket and the holes needed.

L Head to Z22 Block

 

 

You are correct sir. Also notice that the water jacket is filled with block filler, as it is for 1/4 mile use only.

Did you get those pistons from Wiseco directly? I need to find a good source for them.

 

Please post more pics of head if you have them. Combustion chamber mostly. Thanks

[mrbigtanker]

Here's your 5%.... :D

 

As of today.....LZ23

 

 

A little sauce...back in tomorrow

Is this a 2.3 liter,I guess im in the 5% club to.

[mrbigtanker]

This is Byron's LZ22 from a few years ago. The carb one only made 6 less hp. This is EFI and an unknown cam. I believe he said he felt he should shut it down at 6,500

 

Is this rwhp or chp? thank you

[datzenmike]

RWHP... not too shabby. Same engine with carbs made 132RWHP so not much difference with EFI, guess the carbs were well dialed in. EFI was faster starting and had better manners.

[GreaseMonky]

What can I do to get a LZ22 to handle 7-8k?? will balancing, and better hardware help?

[Sealik]

Is this a 2.3 liter

 

 

Correct....

 

 

Eventually pull this back out and replace with a bored L28

 

LZ23 will go into my 510.....

[Suspect]

I'm another one thats attempting the LZ23, Z22 Block - Rods - crank, Ka24 pistons, A87 Open chambered head. I should, with high hopes, have it running this year sometime in a completely restored 74 620. I have approx. $1500 into everything so far: carb, pistons, crank, intake, header, etc. I'm buying a new timing chain, oil pump, water pump asap so I can at least have the engine all together. Also I have comp cam with power range from 2500 to 6500rpm. It should be 9.8 to 1 CR maybe 10 to 1.

 

[datzenmike]

What can I do to get a LZ22 to handle 7-8k?? will balancing, and better hardware help?

 

It would all come down to the head's ability to breath at 8K. What works at 6K needs about 30% more at 8K. So big valves and insane overlap/duration/lift cam that won't run at all below 3,500 RPMs. Big ports and unrestricted flow into the cylinders. Multi carbs that have to be side drafts. Custom rods and forged pistons.

 

but It's got a large stroke so is never going to be comfortable that high. 7K is probably do-able. A turbo would do it to 8K I think, with some kind of EFI.

[wayno]

Where do I buy one of these?

It is separate from the exhaust manifold, correct?

[Suspect]

Where do I buy one of these?

It is separate from the exhaust manifold, correct?

 

I bought mine on ebay, its the only one I've ever seen. It came with a new weber 38/38 and the cannon intake for about $350. Yes its is separate from the exhaust manifold.

[GreaseMonky]

well i guess i can gear down to get me closer to 7k

[EricJB]

What can I do to get a LZ22 to handle 7-8k?? will balancing, and better hardware help?

 

Like Mike said, you would have to build a monster head for it, among other things. I would get it ballanced regardless of the RPM goal. Especially if you go with Z24/KA pistons. The increased weight of the pistons make it a must.

 

The biggest reason to build on the torque, and not the zing, is the spread of the gears in the datsun tranny. Pretty wide gap between 2nd and 3rd. If you set your sights on 8k, it will be flat on power till 4k. So you will be constantly downshifting to find the powerband. Now if someone would start making, and selling close ratio gear sets, so you could gear it like a dirt bike, THEN you could keep the motor in the sweet spot.

 

Cast pistons will only take so much RPM as well. When you start going past the original intended RPM, many things will not be up to the task. Pretty soon you have spent thousands of $ to make your car less drivable.

 

Road racing, hill climbing, Cannonball runs, where sustained high RPM's are the norm, high rod ratio/ fully counterweighted screamer.

 

Light to light, autocross, street driving, build it big and torquey, and set the tach pointer at 6500. And please let me know when you find the close ratio gear sets.

[Farmer Joe]

i think it really comes down to i think your expecting alot out of this old motor...

 

yeah they can be built to rev to 7-8k, but how much do you wanna spend in making sure its gonna stay together?

 

and if you do have this 7-8k max rpm engine, you damn sure it aint gonna be streetable... no way, bud.

 

the only l-series ive drove that revved to 7k was eriks 620 with the de-tuned circle track engine.. its an l16 but, in real life the truck now, is maybe as fast as a new honda civic... its more just the hobbyist that keeps it goin..

 

you gotta think real world.. you really wanna drive a high maintenance engine everywhere that guzzles premium.. the cops will always be huntin you down cuz you have to rev the shit out the thing all the time.. burning up clutches cuz you gotta rev it to 4grand just to get the vehicle to move..

 

if your content with that, then by all means, feel free.. speed cost money; how much do you wanna pay?

[datzenmike]

Like Mike said, you would have to build a monster head for it, among other things. I would get it ballanced regardless of the RPM goal. Especially if you go with Z24/KA pistons. The increased weight of the pistons make it a must.

 

The biggest reason to build on the torque, and not the zing, is the spread of the gears in the datsun tranny. Pretty wide gap between 2nd and 3rd. If you set your sights on 8k, it will be flat on power till 4k. So you will be constantly downshifting to find the powerband. Now if someone would start making, and selling close ratio gear sets, so you could gear it like a dirt bike, THEN you could keep the motor in the sweet spot.

 

Cast pistons will only take so much RPM as well. When you start going past the original intended RPM, many things will not be up to the task. Pretty soon you have spent thousands of $ to make your car less drivable.

 

Road racing, hill climbing, Cannonball runs, where sustained high RPM's are the norm, high rod ratio/ fully counterweighted screamer.

 

Light to light, autocross, street driving, build it big and torquey, and set the tach pointer at 6500. And please let me know when you find the close ratio gear sets.

 

Actually they do make them (NISMO) This is an FS5C71B, note the flange output just like the Roadster and the 521.

 

 

They came in wide ratio, mid close, close and ultra close ratios. The ultra close ratio had a 1.858 1st. gear.

 

There are also three FSC71B non overdrive 5th gear competition boxes, all with 1st gear ratios below 2.818

[mrbigtanker]

RWHP... not too shabby. Same engine with carbs made 132RWHP so not much difference with EFI, guess the carbs were well dialed in. EFI was faster starting and had better manners.

Cool,Im running a 2.3 with KA-24 pistons and mild grind cam and 45 weber sidedrafts.

[GreaseMonky]

Like Mike said, you would have to build a monster head for it, among other things. I would get it ballanced regardless of the RPM goal. Especially if you go with Z24/KA pistons. The increased weight of the pistons make it a must.

 

The biggest reason to build on the torque, and not the zing, is the spread of the gears in the datsun tranny. Pretty wide gap between 2nd and 3rd. If you set your sights on 8k, it will be flat on power till 4k. So you will be constantly downshifting to find the powerband. Now if someone would start making, and selling close ratio gear sets, so you could gear it like a dirt bike, THEN you could keep the motor in the sweet spot.

 

Cast pistons will only take so much RPM as well. When you start going past the original intended RPM, many things will not be up to the task. Pretty soon you have spent thousands of $ to make your car less drivable.

 

Road racing, hill climbing, Cannonball runs, where sustained high RPM's are the norm, high rod ratio/ fully counterweighted screamer.

 

Light to light, autocross, street driving, build it big and torquey, and set the tach pointer at 6500. And please let me know when you find the close ratio gear sets.

 

This engine will be a race engine only, for circle track racing, we onnly use 2nd gear

[EricJB]

Actually they do make them (NISMO) This is an FS5C71B, note the flange output just like the Roadster and the 521.

 

 

They came in wide ratio, mid close, close and ultra close ratios. The ultra close ratio had a 1.858 1st. gear.

 

There are also three FSC71B non overdrive 5th gear competition boxes, all with 1st gear ratios below 2.818

 

 

I always thought those were few and far between, and huge amounts of $$. I dont want to break a $3k box that I cant replace. Are they still available? and if so does anyone know how much $.

[datzenmike]

Rare as rocking horse shit. The one above is owned by Keith Law of Van BC and he got it for about $600 I believe but was very lucky and connected. They are not much use on the street because it would be the equivalent of trying to take off somewhere between 2nd and 3rd. (he's running 4.625 gears in his 510)