SR20DETdatsun510 Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 I'm Jelly about the Vacation!!!! Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 LOL ..... that took me 6 months and almost giving up 3-4 times ..... . and it still turned out as a hack job,,, but I learned alot for the next harness which is this CA18DE harness pinned out on the wall .. :rofl: ... and again, I wish I never hacked into it ... it's still on the wall ... :lol: I wish I had left it stock ..... it takes WAY too much cutting to get it all untangled ... then knowing what went where ... and the CA18 harness is more complicated than the KA24 harness even though they're both S13 dual cam harnesses Be carefull because the CA18 solid black wires are NOT all grounds ... some just go to the ECU and a plug .... and some are ECU grounds to bare metal: ... some don't even go to the ECU .... .. I wish I knew exactly what can be removed This time I didn't cut any of the bigger "plug wires" with grey sheaths... and they're own sivler really thin ground wires... only cut normal looking wires and grounds if you have to cut anything Quote Link to comment
Syncro Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 i would rather do wiring than anything body related. Body work is cake man, no trouble shooting, just fill, remove, replace, or rethink it a bit, I hate wiring myself, nothing but headaches for me, love what your doing with this car though, keep up the good work. Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted April 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Thanks Syncro & Indy. All I've done so far with the wiring was unravel everything. Now it can all fit through the hole in my firewall which is a plus regardless. I just want my ECU, fuse box, etc all pretty and inside the glove box and I'm going to make it a reality. Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted April 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2013 Fucking killed it today. Check this out. $2 fix for gauge cluster's with bad voltage regulators. Mine isn't amazingly pretty or anything but i'm sure it will help someone. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/54598-bad-gauge-cluster-voltage-regulator-easy-2-fix/ Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted April 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 OK. For the record. The 620 mount is BARELY bigger than the 510 mount. I also think i have a crossmember other than 510 that I bought from someone. My engine still sits kinda high, but i can close my hood again, so that's a bonus. I guess down the road I'm going to have to get an intake manifold. One that doesn't go up so damn high, LOL. Since i've been on a wiring kick, I started looking into the bulkhead connectors that SR20DETdatsun510 used to do his wiring harness through the firewall and it seems like the right way to go. I have about 3 feet of wiring that just kind of gets bundled up under the dash, so removing that (i/e shortening the harness) seems like a win to me. There's also the possibility of getting a new ECU plug from the junkyard at the same time... that might be a good idea. The one i have is a little fuxored from the PO of the engine. 1 Quote Link to comment
'70dime Posted April 18, 2013 Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 OK. For the record. The 620 mount is BARELY bigger than the 510 mount. I also think i have a crossmember other than 510 that I bought from someone. My engine still sits kinda high, but i can close my hood again, so that's a bonus. I guess down the road I'm going to have to get an intake manifold. One that doesn't go up so damn high, LOL. Good to know, I had never looked into it myself. this build really makes me want a swap. keep up the good work. Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted April 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2013 thanks... sometimes it doesn't feel like i'm doing good work. Car has been un drivable for a while yet again while i did the motor mount/crossmember switch. I still haven't finished the flares and for the last 2 years i've needed to finish wiring my gauge cluster. LULZ. but at least i'm closer :) Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted April 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2013 Ok. Crossmember and mounts are finished/installed and my motor is running good again. w00t! Now it's time to turn my attention to the fenders and when it gets too late to user power tools, the gauge cluster. I just cracked a red bull (#3 of the day) so now i'm on a mission. Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted April 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2013 Finished grinding down the welds I did and then sanded it down to bare metal much larger than i needed too. That way I have lots of room to smooth it out. Also cleaned the fuck out of it although the tire looks like shite. Applied liberal amounts of epoxy From the front From the back 3/4 view I also managed to touch the top of my forearm on the turbo manifold after it had been running for a few minutes (checking everything making sure it's happy). That didn't feel good. I'm not sure if you can tell, but lowering it seems to have given the rear more negative camber... works for me! I forgot that i added a ton to the front, so I'll take a picture tomorrow after i work on some more stuff. Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted April 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 Damn. The driveshaft/u-joint is hitting the exhaust now. I'm so tired of fixing one thing and having another problem. I'm going to pull the engine and transmission out completely, replace the oil pan gasket, strip some or all of the paint, sell the intercooler, radiator and turbo. Then I'm going to sell all my other extra parts and stitch weld th engine bay. Same in the rear. I'm not putting the engine and trams back in until I have the new turbo and the body totally sorted out. The rear fender came out good, so I'm happy about that. I'm also going to use the stock gas tank and replace the filler neck if I can find one. Por15 is going all over this bitch. After everything on the car is completed and I have all the exact parts I want... THEN I'm going to put the engine back in and fix the exhaust. Shouldn't have rushed it so many times. Patience is a virtue I don't have but am slowly learning. 2 Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 So much room. Can't wait to start putting on bondo, sanding and primering the flare. I think it looks pretty good so far. SO much room back there. I love the fitment. Muh baby is looking so sexy! Still a LONG way from paint! Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 More room = time for wider wheels!!! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Although I have never commented, I have been following this since the beginning. Great work man, Keep it up! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Selling turbo, rad and intercooler. Ill have a FS thread up soon. I have lots of 510 stuff too mattyhacks71: I've already got 15x8s, so idk if I want to go much bigger. It just depends on if I can hook up or not when this is done. Draynor: Thanks buddy :) Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 just make a mount spacer mine is about 1/2inch i didnt want to spend the money on another set of mounts these are 510 mounts one side of the 620 mounts is taller then the other never mind the broken motor mount Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 The engine is too damn high. I may have the wrong crossmember. I bought it off CL from some guy who said it was a 510 crossmember. It bolts up fine but the mounts are so freaking high the intake manifold hits the hood right now. Any ideas on how to tell for sure if it's a 510 crossmember? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Damn. The driveshaft/u-joint is hitting the exhaust now. I'm so tired of fixing one thing and having another problem. Are you talking about the rear drive axles? If so, it should help clearance if you remove the axles and install them backwards. Works just fine that way and usually gives a little more exhaust clearance on a lowered car. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 The engine is too damn high. I may have the wrong crossmember. I bought it off CL from some guy who said it was a 510 crossmember. It bolts up fine but the mounts are so freaking high the intake manifold hits the hood right now. Any ideas on how to tell for sure if it's a 510 crossmember? There isn't another one like a 510, so... If it bolted in and the mounts were equal height, chances are good it's from a 510. :thumbup: Only the B210 is similar enough to be confused for one, and it's mounts are unequal height. Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 I am pretty sure the 240z will also bolt up but would have rack and pinion mounts on it Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 I am pretty sure the 240z will also bolt up but would have rack and pinion mounts on it Yeah, then there's that one. :lol: It has the same look and same mounts, but as you said has rack and pinion mounts on it. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 will a hl510 cross member bolt up ? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 will a hl510 cross member bolt up ? I don't think so. The way it bolts up to the frame is very different. And it would be already front sump, so... Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted April 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 That's so weird... I can't figure out why my engine would be soo high that it would push up on the hood. I have a 510 mount on the passenger side where the intake manifold is at, which is why I was like WTF? That ones shorter than the 620 mount... it just doesn't make sense. I think some of it may be because of the transmission mount. Maybe the trans mount is too low, so it's got the engine at an angle rather than flat. I'm going to look into that after vacation. For the trans crossmember, I used the stock 510 trans crossmember and drilled new holes for the bolts from the trans mount. It seems like it sits at an angle, like the front of the engine is quite a bit higher than the rear of the engine. I'll try and take some pics tonight and post them. maybe you gents have some ideas or something. Probably just need to redo it or add a spacer. Quote Link to comment
erichwaslike Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 so.... these parts you got for sale....... Quote Link to comment
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