chebetio510 Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 So i got a set of titan wheels.. wrapped them with 245/45/18's And lowered it to this height in front and 3" blocks in back.. i looked under truck today to see the bumpstop and its already toucjing the control arm.. not sure what to do.. i like the stance wouldnt mind going another inch lower.. ride is stiff. and hard bumps. hurt like hell.. lol wondering if i trim off some off the bump stop will it help the ride? or the going over bumps.. Quote Link to comment
Guest kamakazi620 Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 So i got a set of titan wheels.. wrapped them with 245/45/18's And lowered it to this height in front and 3" blocks in back.. i looked under truck today to see the bumpstop and its already toucjing the control arm.. not sure what to do.. i like the stance wouldnt mind going another inch lower.. ride is stiff. and hard bumps. hurt like hell.. lol wondering if i trim off some off the bump stop will it help the ride? or the going over bumps.. Re index the torsion bars remove bump stops (cut them off) extend the front shock mounts(cut and weld for more travel) and upgrade to aftermarket shocks KYBs or tokico blues........ Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 Don't Trim Them!! Get These, Only $10 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-9-9102R/?rtype=10 Install Them And Adjust Your Ride Height Quote Link to comment
chebetio510 Posted February 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 they fit in the o.g location? Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 the correct way I think is coilovers or convert it to ball joints and use drop spindles so you dont have to crank the torsion bars down and lose spring rate. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 Right now your tires are your suspension and there isn't any travel for the shocks to absorb. Indeed your shocks might be fully closed and solidly bottomed out!. This is a better way to do it.... the correct way I think is coilovers or convert it to ball joints and use drop spindles so you dont have to crank the torsion bars down and lose spring rate. You need to get the lower control arm down away from the bump stop so there is some arm movement for the shock to absorb. Right now as soon as the tire begins to move up it jams the LCA against the already squashed bump stop and the ride is harsh. Drop spindles lower the arm position Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 the correct way I think is coilovers or convert it to ball joints and use drop spindles so you dont have to crank the torsion bars down and lose spring rate. How do you lose spring rate? The springs are still the same and if you re-index you still have the same leverage on the spring. What you lose is shock travel. If you use drop spindles or lengthen the towers you get that back. Quote Link to comment
bbqbill Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 this may have been talked about already,but how do you reindex the front end? i have cranked the torsion bars,is there more to it then that ? its been a loong time since then. Quote Link to comment
Radim Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Someone liked the headlights on my 620... D: Cut the stops off, problem solved. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Well I dunno what "reindex" is maybe someone can explain that. Cranking torsion bars down takes the preload out of them so technically your taking the spring out of them which causes a bouncy ride and lots of bottoming out. Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Remove those bump stops. Unbolt them from the top and do not put anything back in their place. :) Quote Link to comment
Suspect Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 I drove my 74 on the bumpstops for a long time, with 215/35/18 tires. It was a little ruff, but for the most part was tolerable. I took it on a 600 mile trip, on the outskirts of chicago, i hit a dip and i went airborn at 70mph. I got to watch my full can of red bull flip in mid air a few times before I regained control of it. 3 Quote Link to comment
uieluck Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Why would you worry about the bumpstops!??? Look at all that oil under her! :lol: And btw your profile says you have 720, where's the 620 love? 1 Quote Link to comment
chebetio510 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Someone liked the headlights on my 620... D: Cut the stops off, problem solved. Had to do it man lol to sick.. i think the y beed more angle? Quote Link to comment
chebetio510 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 I drove my 74 on the bumpstops for a long time, with 215/35/18 tires. It was a little ruff, but for the most part was tolerable. I took it on a 600 mile trip, on the outskirts of chicago, i hit a dip and i went airborn at 70mph. I got to watch my full can of red bull flip in mid air a few times before I regained control of it. LMAO on the freeway i go airborn.. lol but the steering wheel brings me back down haha Quote Link to comment
chebetio510 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Why would you worry about the bumpstops!??? Look at all that oil under her! :lol: And btw your profile says you have 720, where's the 620 love? The oil under her is the 720... she's getting love lol and moved her to the back of the house.. Quote Link to comment
Lee R Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Lose the wagon wheel 18's and get something smaller. It would lower your truck 2 inches or so simply by switching to 15's with the right size tire. 2 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Well I dunno what "reindex" is maybe someone can explain that. Cranking torsion bars down takes the preload out of them so technically your taking the spring out of them which causes a bouncy ride and lots of bottoming out. Re-indexing is rotating the lever arm one spline tooth to keep the lever arm from protruding below the truck. All you are doing when your 'crank' the torsion bars is rotating them in relation to the frame. This rotates the control arm up effectively lowering the truck. The 'pre-load' in the torsion spring is the weight of the truck as it sits on the ground, which is the pretty much the same whether your 'crank' the torsion springs or not. The spring still has the same spring rate as you have not modified it, it isn't the same as cutting a coil. The lack of shock travel is what causes the bouncy ride and bottoming out, that and riding on the bumpstops. You would get the same bouncy ride if you pulled the shocks out of a stock height truck. Re-indexing from the FAQ ]2edeye, Please make a note that the link to the 620 has the FSM's that everybody with a 620 should have downloaded and to donate for the privilege of getting them Cheap or Free! Makya, I'm borrowing your post :) Torsion bar adjustment bolts Torsion Bar Re-Indexing So I guess I'll start with why this needs to be done and seeing as how a picture is worth a thousand words.... and a quote... Redeye, I feel pretty confident that the difference bewteen one spline and two, adjusted only with the slop taken out is 7/8". The first thing to do after jacking up the truck and putting jack stands under it is to mark you arm and frame with a sharpie to let you know your starting point. Then move the rubber boot back so you can access the c-clip. Here's a shot of the clip. I was able to get it off with a couple screwdrivers. After you pull the c-clip tap the arm back with a hammer until it pops loose. At this point, if your arms are still in good shape you can rotate the arm and reinsert the torsion rod one spline up. Torsion arm assembly All bent back into shape...gotta love steel Final clearance. I gained about an inch rotating it one spline. I don't think I'll be ripping that bolt out anymore All in all it took about 20 minutes and that was mostly cause I used scissor jacks.... How to Reindex Torsion Bars in front of the middle crossmember, you pull the boot forward to reviel the lock ring Work a thin screwdriver into the edge of the ring. It will be tight. I had to work the angle back and forth while occasionally tapping the back of the handle with a hammer Once you get under the ring, work it out slightly. Do not pull the screwdriver away or the ring will pop back on After you have worked it off part way, use some pliers to pull the ring off the rest of the way. Be sure to still keep the screwdriver under the lock ring Tap the rear arm of that holds the adjuster bolt out of the crossmember. Hang onto the torsion bar. It can slide out at either end. I was able to feel the splines in the end of the bar and I moved it two notches. edit:(but you only want to move it one notch!) The reindexed bar is on the right. after the bar is reindexed, just hold the lock ring up and hit the back of the ring with a hammer. It pops on real easy. Put the dust boot back Nice pic's of the snap ring Bleach :) Picture added by datzenmike 21/04/10: Another method just remove the anchor bolts then remove the nut on the A arm up front almost off then pound it out w/o hurting the threads me and Icehouse did his 521 truck. We NEVER removed the c clip from the back we just pulled the torsion bar from the front A arm and reindexed it there. Had to jack up the wheel to get it to reinstall. We never wanted to take the c clip out. Recent thread on extending the shock towers. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/39766-even-lower/page__p__624856__hl__monk__fromsearch__1#entry624856 Mine are in there. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Lose the wagon wheel 18's and get something smaller. It would lower your truck 2 inches or so simply by switching to 15's with the right size tire. I'm running 18"s with the same diameter tire as stock. You would have to run a much smaller than stock diameter tire to drop 2" with just tires on 15"s :) Quote Link to comment
Lee R Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 2eDeYe' date='06 February 2012 - 11:39 AM' timestamp='1328557170' post='628037']I'm running 18"s with the same diameter tire as stock. 18's with a stock 185/75 tire? :blink: Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Diameter not tire size :rolleyes: :P Quote Link to comment
Rays74 Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Lee I think he means overall diameter, like to measure the height of both would be 30in......just to say (not sure what just throwin out a number :)). This doesn't take any width difference into account, just diameter OK? --Ray Quote Link to comment
Lee R Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 WTF?!?!?!? Sorry guys...I guess it is time for my coffee break. LOL! Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Haha :lol: Quote Link to comment
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