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Rays74

Senior Member
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    341
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About Rays74

  • Rank
    Hall Monitor
  • Birthday 10/18/1966

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    kelley4four@msn.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chino, Calif. just down the street from Ol Yeller :)
  • Cars
    '72 510 wagon, '74 620, '79 GMC shortbox fleetside, '66 Dodge Coronet (orig Big Block car)
  • Interests
    Datsuns, vintage dirtbikes, vintage Japanese street bikes and vintage 60's go karts
  • Occupation
    Pro M/C tech and Sooooooooper daaaaaaaaaad!!

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Rays74

    L16 queries

    I found an NOS set of L16 pistons & rings so I def will be pulling the flat top Z pistons out of it. It's been using a little oil lately so a fresh set of slugs should be good for it.
  2. Rays74

    L16 queries

    I am looking to work with the mechanical advance a bit, along with limiting it's max adv as mentioned I'm also looking to play with the springs a bit too and possibly lighten the weights a little to see what it runs like. This will all happen of course after I decrease the static compression a little...... my ultimate goal is not power so much as ability to run cleanly on the sh*tty fuel avail locally. 🙂
  3. Rays74

    L16 queries

    Thanks again Mike, that list is just what I was looking for 🙂 Appreciate it! -- Ray
  4. Rays74

    L16 queries

    Thanks Mike, yes it's one of the weird W53's that are semi open chamber (not closed but not as open as say an A87 US spec open)........ I ran it years ago on an L18 in my '74 pickup and liked it, no pinging and had good power on an otherwise std eng. I'm wondering what my compression ratio might be in the L16 with this head with the Z pistons and with std dished? Both .030 over (.75mm) This engine needs to run well on todays fuel. My go-to machinist knows exactly what I want when I bring him an OHC Datsun cylinder head for valve work 🙂 Thanks Hainz Thanks Wayno..... that helps, I know the matchboxes aren't curved for anything but emissions related running so I can imagine limiting the mech advance would help. I have thought of respringing the advance mech to delay the curve some but haven't given it any time. Thanks for the thoughts All, appreciate your insight 😉
  5. Rays74

    L16 queries

    That's what I thought......pretty high for today's ethanol laced crap 🙂 The sinking valve issue I have delt with on another W53 (closed chamber) and it's a bummer to live with a good performing head that's slowing chewing through a valve seat. You mention the U67 Mike, would the open W53 be comparable compression wise? That number sounds on target. Hainz I will see about swapping the dist between my pick up and the wagon for a day just to see if there's diff..... and yes the lash pad is very close to flush level with the retainer bucket. Thanks fellas
  6. Rays74

    L16 queries

    Thanks Hainz, yeah my first experience with that lash pad prob last Feb I did just that...tightened up the clearances and it seemed to solve it but now it's happened again just the other evening with the tighter settings. Both times it's happened at higher rpm's on the highway..... that's why I'm thinking now it may be a loose valve seat ...IDK. I don't have another matchbox dist to try but this one is working 100% no issue.... it's timed correctly where I have plenty of twist to get to any degree within reason I need so no issue there. It does run better the higher octane I use but the way it pings on 91 it would take straight 100 octane white gas to eliminate all the pinging...lol. I've checked the timing over and over again and it's fine...... I'm fortunate that I'm a small engine mechanic so I have lots of experience with engines in general. Could this combination of flat tops and 210 head be just detonation prone? thanks
  7. Rays74

    L16 queries

    Hi All, My '72 wagon's L16 has begun showing an issue with dislodging it's #4 intake valve lash cap (happened last Feb that I chalked it up to POSSIBLY too loose valve clearance) that I now suspect is a failing valve seat. The engine has approx 25k on a rebuild (I bought it rebuilt) which included .75mm OS flat top 240z pistons. The head that's on it is a std 210 semi closed casting with no port work and a std 510 cam (no square lugs in the middle). I've never taken any compression readings on it but this engine pings a lot even with 91 octane and backing the timing off a skoash to 10deg (Matchbox btw)..... still rattles at anything approaching a hill or lug of any sort. The flat top Z pistons wouldn't cause that much of a difference would they? Anyways.....my question... keeping in mind the engine doesn't use water or overheat ever. I have another head I could use...... a W53 open chamber (which is known good, has bad valve but otherwise is a good builder candidate) What could I expect from that head? I am looking to eliminate the pinging on pump fuel at normal timing settings (approx 12 to 15deg). This is strictly a cruiser not a ricky racer so reliability takes precedent over everything else 🙂
  8. Be aware as well that the square manifold will have likely come from either an L16 or L18 and may end up pointing the downpipe at the bellhousing since the L20B is a touch taller. It's workable but just know 😉
  9. As a 40+ year motorcycle and small engine mechanic I've had lots of experience with different types of sealers......used with gaskets and without (many engine case halves are assembled using only semi hardening sealants such as Yamabond 4, Hondabond 4 or Theebond 1184 all gray colored). I tend to error on the side of caution and use a very thin layer of sealant ( I say thin as in not seen when the part is assembled it's only there to supplement the main gasket not replace it) on most critical gaskets and it has worked very well for me for this many many years. Of course the sealants I use are gray colored as to not be seen so easily and anything that happens to squeeze out gets wiped off immediately with a rag or perhaps a drop of gasoline on a towel (easily done before it sets up, impossible afterwards) ....... I don't understand the fascination with using neon orange or blue RTV so much so that it squeezes out of the surfaces you're trying to seal! LOL As a Datsun owner and rebuilder of my own engines I can tell you they all were built the same way using either Yamabond 4 or Threebond 1184 on their gaskets, they don't leak and thats the way I like it 😉 Just one mechanic's way
  10. Might wanna swap out that dodgy fuel line as well Ouki, it looks swelled up and past it's use-by date 😉 -- Ray
  11. Going off the two others I've help switch over it should be a cinch but yeah take a look.
  12. This is the best plan, even with the "slushbox" behind that L16 you will still get to enjoy your vintage truck while improving it. An added benefit to your truck being an automatic is that it already has the correct drive shaft for the longtail 4 or 5spd swap (the orig '73 manual trans was a shorty and used a unique driveshaft section that won't work with the better longtail transmissions you will likely be using...winner!!) 😉
  13. I get it Wayno, your circumstances dictated no L16's for you....... extreme circumstances 🙂 The folks that had to deal with Model T's shortcomings speak the same way LOL 😛 Do what you want Doug, you know how I feel about the small bore short stroke revvers....... 😉 holler at me if you need help, I'm not far.
  14. Aww the little L16 ain't so bad 🤩...... good for a self described "noob" to learn on and at least get running and enjoy the truck as is since it's already in the truck THEN find another engine (L20B) to build up in the mean time. Get your truck running as is Doug, hard to know if the pistons and rings etc are any good without a healthy cylinder head so start there first. A decent 210 head shouldn't cost you a little bit of nothing since they aren't anyone's choice for HP but will be good for your build, a closed chamber A87 would good too but that will be more $$ as now we're looking at a more desirable piece. Don't discount the fact that to be able to drive your project as you work on it is the coolest part of owning a vintage Datsun ....... don't tear it down unnecessarily 🙂
  15. Yeah a bit underpowered but I built an L16 15yrs ago that is equipped exactly like yours Doug and it just turned 100k (std dish pistons, A87 open ch head, EI ignition etc) This is also a '73 truck with D21 rear gears for lower freeway rpms. It's no speedster but the owner has been very happy with it and reports avg of approx 27mpg using a late Dch340 Hitachi that I tuned. As a side benefit that motor is very tolerant of any grade fuel and a bit more initial timing 😉 Would be a good turbo build lol
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