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About Rays74

  • Rank
    Hall Monitor
  • Birthday 10/18/1966

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Chino, Calif. just down the street from Ol Yeller :)
  • Cars
    '72 510 wagon, '74 620, '79 GMC shortbox fleetside, '66 Dodge Coronet (orig Big Block car)
  • Interests
    Datsuns, vintage dirtbikes, vintage Japanese street bikes and vintage 60's go karts
  • Occupation
    Pro M/C tech and Sooooooooper daaaaaaaaaad!!

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  1. Rays74

    GOONS check in

    I would get your engine leakdown tested before doing anything...... then more than likely yeah pull that head (you DID check the valve lash right? Do it now). You need a direction when chasing this low compression prob and 30min with a pressure tester will tell you
  2. Rays74

    GOONS check in

    Eddie, your motor has a dead cylinder in that video...... you mentioned compression...yep check that first ? 130 to 150 good used, more important is a close balance between the four. Adjust the valves before you chk.
  3. Rays74

    Heated fuel line??

    Hi all, just picked up a one owner '74 620 with an interesting mod (the coiled copper surrounding the modified upper rad hose) which I can only imagine is a cold weather mod..........but the truck was and always has been a So Cal pick up. Have anyone else ever seen this strange mod? I can see warming the carb ala aircraft but heating the fuel line?? Fast lane to vapor lock me thinks.....all else is absolutely dead stock. Strange to me.... lol -- Ray
  4. The cam towers can be pulled, it's not black magik and no harm has ever come to the engines I've rebuilt as long as you use the correct sequence upon reinstallation. Install the towers with the cam in them finger tight (use plenty of asembly lube, grease whatever....I use Lucas cause I have it in the shop)......now without the rockers in place snug the towers down and keep spinning the cam every chance you get (place the cam sprocket on finger tight to help here), if or when you find the cam binding at all loosen the last tower you snugged and wiggle it a bit and try again. Now you may find the cam binding and loosening as you turn it that would indicate it has a slight bend or warp...... better to replace it at that point. I normally save the old towers and bit from heads that are being recycled so I can have a selection to pick through if I find I have a warped cam or bad tower (not often). Here's a short videdo of me assembling a stock L18 and focusing on the cam and how smooth it needs to be. Good luck, -- Ray https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7n-xukHMwQA&t=3s
  5. Tough to see on my phone but looks like that video shows #3 exh lobe nearly running off the end of the pad
  6. All of the Nissan distributors I've seen have a letter in the part number stamp....look again ?
  7. Rays74


    Reading this again sober......nope, still no comprende .... lol
  8. The NOX being near upper level could indicate it's running lean, possible vacuum leak somewheres would also trip the HC levels to be high as it isn't burning the fuel it's given. I live in So Cal, smog laws can be a b*tch
  9. Thanks....yeah I had looked all over for stock sized 510 struts to drop into the strut tubes without success (for some reason the older 510 length strut inserts are not easily found)....... however the ZX struts are avail everywhere and by reading some of the more in depth posts on here regarding using them in the 510 I was able to make the upgrade easily. I replaced the boot and bumper while it was apart and along with the new bearings and strut top insulators mentioned before the wagon is all set ?
  10. Correct..... I followed the advise given by many Ratsun folk and used ZX inserts along with approx 2in of spacer in the stock tubes to make up the difference. I wanted to stay near stock ride heights so no need to swap out the strut tubes. Works great
  11. So I finally had time to dig into this problem further and as I suspected the rubber insulator had worked itself into powder allowing the metal center cup to push up and out. I had looked locally at different solutions (since I didnt want to use old parts) but finally settled on these from Zcar https://zcardepot.com/all-products/suspension/front-suspension/front-upper-strut-mount-insulator-280zx-510 . The pics tell the story of course. Now with all the bushings, struts and now these insulators replaced the wagon feels like a new car (well better at least....haha). I hadn't realized the car had been leaning towards the driver side caused by that strut bearing being sucked up into that failing rubber insulator.......all good now ? -- Ray
  12. Rays74

    GOONS check in

    Sounds like you have a weak/dead cylinder..... do a compression check and proceed from there, my guess is you have low one. Glad you got drive it!
  13. The only theory that makes any sense is that the bearing may have been binding bad enough to "twist fatigue" the rubber insulator over time. This wagon is a daily so it is never still for long in our house.....lol.
  14. Shocked me to see it lemme tell ya...lol. Yeah the rubber center just gave up and looks like the pass side won't be far behind as the rubber has a huge crack around the majority of the center. Your pic Mike shows the bearing mount (top hat) for both cars....the bearing saddle and the bolt circle look pretty similar and I have hope the ZX mount will just drop onto the 510 strut. In hind sight the upper bearing on both sides has not been turning smoothly (when it was in my hand 2 weeks ago and I regreased it felt smooth but under the weight of the car it was notchy) and I had wanted to replace the upper bearings and mounts but was not having any luck finding new replacements. I'll pull it apart this week and try and match up something at the parts house :)
  15. Yeah the rubber insulator just got weak enough to let everything below it bust up right through........ it is weird. From what I can gather (searching these forums and interwebs ;) ) the later 280ZX might be a drop in for replacement upper strut mount? It does have ZX strut inserts but stock struts otherwise (no low). -- Ray
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