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About Rays74

  • Rank
    Hall Monitor
  • Birthday 10/18/1966

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Chino, Calif. just down the street from Ol Yeller :)
  • Cars
    '72 510 wagon, '74 620, '79 GMC shortbox fleetside, '66 Dodge Coronet (orig Big Block car)
  • Interests
    Datsuns, vintage dirtbikes, vintage Japanese street bikes and vintage 60's go karts
  • Occupation
    Pro M/C tech and Sooooooooper daaaaaaaaaad!!

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  1. Going off the two others I've help switch over it should be a cinch but yeah take a look.
  2. This is the best plan, even with the "slushbox" behind that L16 you will still get to enjoy your vintage truck while improving it. An added benefit to your truck being an automatic is that it already has the correct drive shaft for the longtail 4 or 5spd swap (the orig '73 manual trans was a shorty and used a unique driveshaft section that won't work with the better longtail transmissions you will likely be using...winner!!) 😉
  3. I get it Wayno, your circumstances dictated no L16's for you....... extreme circumstances 🙂 The folks that had to deal with Model T's shortcomings speak the same way LOL 😛 Do what you want Doug, you know how I feel about the small bore short stroke revvers....... 😉 holler at me if you need help, I'm not far.
  4. Aww the little L16 ain't so bad 🤩...... good for a self described "noob" to learn on and at least get running and enjoy the truck as is since it's already in the truck THEN find another engine (L20B) to build up in the mean time. Get your truck running as is Doug, hard to know if the pistons and rings etc are any good without a healthy cylinder head so start there first. A decent 210 head shouldn't cost you a little bit of nothing since they aren't anyone's choice for HP but will be good for your build, a closed chamber A87 would good too but that will be more $$ as now we're looking at a more desirable piece. Don't discount the fact that to be able to drive your project as you work on it is the coolest part of owning a vintage Datsun ....... don't tear it down unnecessarily 🙂
  5. Yeah a bit underpowered but I built an L16 15yrs ago that is equipped exactly like yours Doug and it just turned 100k (std dish pistons, A87 open ch head, EI ignition etc) This is also a '73 truck with D21 rear gears for lower freeway rpms. It's no speedster but the owner has been very happy with it and reports avg of approx 27mpg using a late Dch340 Hitachi that I tuned. As a side benefit that motor is very tolerant of any grade fuel and a bit more initial timing 😉 Would be a good turbo build lol
  6. Optical illusion or what the hell happened to #2 ex valve seat? From that pic it looks like some evil has been there Wondering what pistons those are too, we L18 owners are always on the lookout
  7. The D21 into 620 pumpkin swap is pretty well known swap, I have two trucks daily driven both with near 100k on them after the swap. Both these trucks see lots of freeway, around town and occasional heavy lifting and the taller gearing (both have 3:70) has been a benefit in all aspects. Now if I lived in a more hilly area or were more of a hauling duties then it may not be the best..... ymmv 🙂
  8. Proper thing to do would be to pull the pump and prime it, change the oil and filter..... BUT I say if you are certain you are getting oil up to the top of the motor than you are safe to go for starting it. I would however change the oil and filter as soon as possible once it is running. Check your coolant levels too and watch for a sticking thermostat once it's warming up......leave the cap off and pay attention to the water level 😉
  9. Rays74

    GOONS check in

    I would get your engine leakdown tested before doing anything...... then more than likely yeah pull that head (you DID check the valve lash right? Do it now). You need a direction when chasing this low compression prob and 30min with a pressure tester will tell you
  10. Rays74

    GOONS check in

    Eddie, your motor has a dead cylinder in that video...... you mentioned compression...yep check that first ? 130 to 150 good used, more important is a close balance between the four. Adjust the valves before you chk.
  11. Rays74

    Heated fuel line??

    Hi all, just picked up a one owner '74 620 with an interesting mod (the coiled copper surrounding the modified upper rad hose) which I can only imagine is a cold weather mod..........but the truck was and always has been a So Cal pick up. Have anyone else ever seen this strange mod? I can see warming the carb ala aircraft but heating the fuel line?? Fast lane to vapor lock me thinks.....all else is absolutely dead stock. Strange to me.... lol -- Ray
  12. The cam towers can be pulled, it's not black magik and no harm has ever come to the engines I've rebuilt as long as you use the correct sequence upon reinstallation. Install the towers with the cam in them finger tight (use plenty of asembly lube, grease whatever....I use Lucas cause I have it in the shop)......now without the rockers in place snug the towers down and keep spinning the cam every chance you get (place the cam sprocket on finger tight to help here), if or when you find the cam binding at all loosen the last tower you snugged and wiggle it a bit and try again. Now you may find the cam binding and loosening as you turn it that would indicate it has a slight bend or warp...... better to replace it at that point. I normally save the old towers and bit from heads that are being recycled so I can have a selection to pick through if I find I have a warped cam or bad tower (not often). Here's a short videdo of me assembling a stock L18 and focusing on the cam and how smooth it needs to be. Good luck, -- Ray https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7n-xukHMwQA&t=3s
  13. Tough to see on my phone but looks like that video shows #3 exh lobe nearly running off the end of the pad
  14. All of the Nissan distributors I've seen have a letter in the part number stamp....look again ?
  15. Rays74


    Reading this again sober......nope, still no comprende .... lol
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