Bye-bye Distributor, Hello Coil Pack

[ggzilla]

First mockup on my Datsun A14 engine:

 

 

Does anyone know how to time this? It is a 36-1 crank wheel. I'm guessing the sensor should point straight at the "missing" tooth at #1 TDC. Is that correct?

[Fineline]

The VR sensor with the motor at TDC should be 9 teeth behind the missing tooth. What are you using to controll it. If you are just using it alone you will have no advance other than what you set your initial at. Without any computer controll the EDIS will run in "limp home" mode which is 10 degrees BTDC. Heres some good info.

 

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm

[ggzilla]

Thanks. That confirms half of my questions. Would that be nine teeth clockwise or counterclockwise?

 

I am testing it in standalone (limp-home mode), while a controller is on order.

[Fineline]

Depending on the rotation of your engine the missing tooth is 9 teeth ahead of your sensor. With the timing you can use your stock timing mark and check it like you would normaly. I have some adjustability in my VR sensor but dont need it with my megasquirt. This will alow you to move the timing and run more than just the 10 degrees.

[ggzilla]

So it's been said that all Datsun engines rotate the same way: clockwise looking the front of the engine.

 

I've been thinking about this for two days and still can't figure out what "ahead of" means ...

[bonvo]

if im reading it correctly it means that the "missing tooth" should be nine teeth away from the pick up as the motor turns so basicly it needs to be 9 teeth away from the sensor in the rotation direction if that helps any im horrible at explaning things

[bonvo]

ok i think what he means is it should be where the blue arrow is pointing but it could be where the red one is pointing because if it works the way i think it does the red one is pointing to a spot where it would fire before the piston hit tdc but again if im reading ti right its where the blue one is pointing

 

 

i hope this helps and im sorry if it just makes it more confusing

[ggzilla]

Well, it'll either run or blow up ... I'll let you know how it works.

[ggzilla]

It works! Got it running tonight after work, drove it around the block

 

At first it wouldn't start. So I thought about what you all said, and I moved the tooth-wheel back 9 tooth the other direction and it fired right up!

 

Now I got to get a controller for it, they are $79 dollars.

[ggzilla]

Here's a pic. I drove around the block like this, but I suppose I should put the cap back on...

 

[datzenmike]

ggzilla, you're running it with straight 10 degree advance only, is that right?

[ggzilla]

Yes, it is straight degrees, no advance curve. I don't have a timing light so I dunno exactly where it is at. It drives fine in 1st and 2nd, down a bit in power as your rev it up, but runs very smoothly, idles well.

 

Here is a small vid (mostly sound) of the first run up. I'm guessing it was about 10-15 degrees retarded because of the way it ran.

FLV flash video (202k)

After this I advance the wheel a bit more than one tooth (10+ degrees) it sound better, idles perfectly, and I drove it around the block.

 

I'm still excited about my $35 purchase, including the bushing... gotta get the controller now.

[makya]

So, I'm sure this has been explained ad nauseum, but what is the system off of?

[datzenmike]

Looks like a ford. Do you have any pictures of the box? that makes it work? I've seen a few on fords but don't know what to look for.

[ggzilla]

1990-1993 Ford Escort 1.9 engine. Details are here: http://wiki.datsun1200.com/index.php/EDIS

[521Lvr]

Nice! I love my EDIS setup.

BTW.9 teeth only works on a 4 cylinder.

Cousious. what controller and where are you getting it for the edis?

[ggzilla]

I only know of two controllers:

* Megajolt (spark-only controller)

* MegaSquirt (EFI and spark controller)

 

Are there others? I'm going with Megajolt for this project. It's only $89 kit.

[521Lvr]

I only know of the 2 controllers.

Thought you might have found something else.:)

Nice work BTW

[ggzilla]

Yes, thanks to all who helped with timing suggestions.

 

Here's a pic of the final layout:

 

Hopefully the controller won't take but a night or two to solder up and connect, then I can remove the old coil and distributor.

[Icehouse]

So it even idles better with EDIS?

[ggzilla]

I think so, but it idles fairly well anyways...

IH, don't you have EDIS on your green 620?

[pl521sss]

Does coil packs produces hotter spark than standard EI?

 

I see that you have both the distributor and crank sensor.

You need both to trigger the coil packs?

[ggzilla]

Yes. No.

 

Yes, coil pack is a stronger spark. It is also 'multiple spark' (like an CDI system) at low RPMs.

 

I have left the distributor in as a backup (read the entire thread here you'll know why).

[pl521sss]

Yes. No.

 

Yes, coil pack is a stronger spark. It is also 'multiple spark' (like an CDI system) at low RPMs.

 

I have left the distributor in as a backup (read the entire thread here you'll know why).

 

I think will give it a try.

If I get 2 more miles per gallon, it will be worth it over time.

Gas will be at $5gallon pretty soon.

 

Nice write up

[Duke]

I think that this might just be the ticket for my carbed KA24de. Awesome write up, your explaination was really good and makes it super easy. Great stuff.