Hydrolocked L20B. Oh shiii

[metalmonkey47]

Got a few related/unrelated questions, so I'm condensing it.

 

 

I was driving to work tonight in a thunder storm. i was in the left lane approaching my turn lane to my Autozone, when I saw a huge (bout 1-2 foot deep) puddle that collects in heavy rain. I had traffic to my right, so I braked hard anticipating the puddle to be deeper then I thought and hit it at about 20mph. It was enough to blow water under the hood and up into my air cleaner. I hit the clutch as I hit the water, and the engine stalled instantly form about 2K RPM.

 

I rolled into the parking lot (couldn't really stop, since the drums were all soaked.)

 

 

 

I was able to bump the starter and it spit a bit before it stalled. I pulled plugs 1-3 and hit the starter for a second to blow the water out, and I was able to get it re-started, however now i have a few issues:

 

-My idle fluctuates and is rougher.

-My alternator is pulsing and produces 14V under no load at 1000RMP. With any load (headlights heater etc) it drops to 12.5V and I see my lights pulsing. Anywhere above idle I get around 13V. Volt reg is brand new.

 

 

 

 

 

It makes plenty of power and there are no funny noises other then a noisy alt squeak.

 

 

 

Are there any concerns I should note or anything I should look into as precaution? I had a friend that lost a motor to hydrolock a month ago, and don't want to loose my motor. It runs WAYYY too good!

 

 

 

 

 

Unrelated: What's the correct weight GL-5 does the H190 use? I've got 1 quart of 85W-90 and 85W-140 Lucas Synthetic laying around...

Edited January 22, 2012 by metalmonkey47

[KC Phirus]

Hang it up to dry.

Try again in the morning.

[HRH]

You got water in the carb and the alternator. Let it dry overnight, drive it around for a few miles, it'll iron out the stuttering. The alternator is responding to wet brushes. My charge light comes on entirely when I go puddle jumping as it soaks the casing since I don't have a flap on that side. Your alternator is solid sided so it has a harder time evacuating water. Just park it for tonight, go drive it in the morning. You'll probably be fine.

 

Oh yeah, and slow down for puddles. ;)

[Zeusimo]

Cover Him With A Blanket,

I'm Sure He Just Caught A Cold For Running Around In The Rain Without A Sweater :(

[I'm BLUE]

you just decarbonized the engine ... :)

 

Change oil asap ...

 

Marvel mystery oil down cylinder ... i would ... but possibly overkill. Lol

 

Clean all electrical connections ...

 

Check your ignition. Components ....

 

Lubricates carb bushings ...

 

Spray out alternator with electrical cleaner ,,,,

 

Park truck in warm garage ... or run a dehumidifier somehow? Hmmmmmm

 

Hot short in system? If solid state ign ... nothing you can do ... if breaker points regulator than adjust them (not likely)

 

Modify your snout/sir cleaner if you believe it to be a future problem .... splash pans?

[metalmonkey47]

You got water in the carb and the alternator. Let it dry overnight, drive it around for a few miles, it'll iron out the stuttering. The alternator is responding to wet brushes. My charge light comes on entirely when I go puddle jumping as it soaks the casing since I don't have a flap on that side. Your alternator is solid sided so it has a harder time evacuating water. Just park it for tonight, go drive it in the morning. You'll probably be fine.

 

Oh yeah, and slow down for puddles. ;)

 

That's what I was figuring I think more then anything I'm looking for an excuse to spend the $50 the IR alternator

 

Kinda hard avoiding puddles around here :( we were under flash flood conditions. Hardest rain I've ever driven in. I anticipated it, but the puddle was all the way out into both lanes. I have never seen it that big.

 

 

Cover Him With A Blanket,

I'm Sure He Just Caught A Cold For Running Around In The Rain Without A Sweater :(

 

I think she's happy for the night :) I got her nice and warm trying to dry her out. Drove her home nice and easy!

 

 

you just decarbonized the engine ... :)

 

Change oil asap ...

 

Marvel mystery oil down cylinder ... i would ... but possibly overkill. Lol

 

Clean all electrical connections ...

 

Check your ignition. Components ....

 

Lubricates carb bushings ...

 

Spray out alternator with electrical cleaner ,,,,

 

Hot short in system? If solid state ign ... nothing you can do ... if breaker points regulator than adjust them (not likely)

 

Modify your snout/sir cleaner if you believe it to be a future problem .... splash pans?

 

LOL yeah it's clean under the hood. I steam cleaned everything! haha All my prior oil leaks from the pan are gone.

 

It's an EI dizzy and I sprayed it out already (great minds think alike)

 

Didn't think about the bushings though, good call.

 

I have some MMO laying around, so I'll do that. overkill or not, better safe then sorry.

 

 

I think i'll go to Advance and get their Valvoline/Wix filter deal. $20 back rebate!

 

 

 

Gonna build some pans in the next few days. It's wild over here.

[Zeusimo]

Walk Into Advance With Your Autozone Uniform On For Teh Lolz :)

[metalmonkey47]

Walk In Advance With Your Autozone Uniform For Teh Lolz :)

 

I do it all the time

 

Called them the other night looking for Apex seals for an 89 Mazda 626. reverse trolling!

[I'm BLUE]

Kewl kewl mm47... :cool:

[metalmonkey47]

Kewl kewl mm47... :cool:

 

They don't even know you're trolling until it's too late

[datzenmike]

Your ignition system, particularly the under side of the cap, could be wet. Water on the wires, cap or rotor may conduct high voltage.

 

Your air filter may be soaking wet and restrictive until it dries out. This will act like the choke is on.

 

Alternator may not charge properly for 5 minutes until the brushes wipe the water off the contacts.

 

Brakes, drum or disc, will be lubricated by water and slip if used. Drive for 1/2 block with brakes on gently to wipe the water off.

 

 

Other than that motors, master cylinders, batteries, are sealed up pretty well to keep water and dirt out so no worries.

[DOnatello]

Karma is a bitch isnt it? :lol:

[I'm BLUE]

They don't even know you're trolling until it's too late

 

:lol: .... :sneaky:

[I'm BLUE]

Karma is a bitch isnt it? :lol:

 

 

 

Trolololololol :lol:

[metalmonkey47]

My air filter is brand new. i JUST put a proper air cleaner on it the other day If I hadn't, I probably would have wrecked this motor.

 

 

 

MIke, how do you judge if a ign rotor is in need of replacment? I was asked this question and I wasn't sure how to answer it... Corrosion on leads and deteriorated contacts?

 

 

Karma is a bitch isnt it? :lol:

 

 

Karma has a cold heart

[DAT510]

They don't even know you're trolling until it's too late

 

call em them and ask for a water pump for a VW :P

[Guest kamakazi620]

My air filter is brand new. i JUST put a proper air cleaner on it the other day If I hadn't, I probably would have wrecked this motor.

 

 

 

MIke, how do you judge if a ign rotor is in need of replacment? I was asked this question and I wasn't sure how to answer it... Corrosion on leads and deteriorated contacts?

 

 

 

 

 

Karma has a cold heart

I know I DO!!!!!!!!! i belive 80-90w GL-5 is what your rear axle takes,i put GL-4 80-90 in mine and drove around the parking lot and boy it made some WEIRD noises,i changed it to GL-5

[HRH]

The only reason to run GL4 is for the transmission, if there's brass in whatever you're using the oil for. GL5 has more active sulfur (extreme pressure lubricants) which will eat brass. Perfectly fine for diffs, not good for Datsun transmissions. Regardless, you shouldn't hear noises moreso with one fluid or the other.

[Guest kamakazi620]

The only reason to run GL4 is for the transmission, if there's brass in whatever you're using the oil for. GL5 has more active sulfur (extreme pressure lubricants) which will eat brass. Perfectly fine for diffs, not good for Datsun transmissions. Regardless, you shouldn't hear noises moreso with one fluid or the other.

I didn't know the app so i put GL-4 in diff and did some tight cookies (without burning tires) and the diff made some nasty whinning and weird noises so i dumped out the GL-4 and put in GL-5 synthetic 80-90 same test no noises,Will GL-5 synthetic eat the trans???? :unsure:

[Master-O-Turbonics]

Will GL-5 synthetic eat the trans???? :unsure:

 

Yes

[datzenmike]

MIke, how do you judge if a ign rotor is in need of replacment? I was asked this question and I wasn't sure how to answer it... Corrosion on leads and deteriorated contacts?

 

Get a new rotor and compare them. When the old one looks bad enough change it. The outer edge gets pitted and eroded. I just sand paper it clean like points and keep going. Same with the cap, the contacts erode and get crusty. I pick the crusty shit off and clean them. Make sure you check the center electrode. It's a little spring loaded carbon button. When I installed my matchbox I stopped checking the ignition system for years and years, it ran so good. One rainy day it wouldn't re-start. The carbon button had worn away to powder and pieces. I cut a piece of fence wire and stick in the coil lead and pushed down into the cap to contact the rotor terminal and bang she ran just fine until I could replace.

[Zeusimo]

So... How's She Running Now?

[DanielC]

Have you changed the engine oil?

Have you changed the transmission oil?

Have you changed the differential oil?

[metalmonkey47]

Thanks for the help guys!

 

 

 

 

As an update, she's running much better now. I dried out the filter with a light hair drier.

 

I've got:

 

High Mileage Penzoil/Bosch combo for the oil,

GM Synchromesh for trans

Lucas Synthetic 80W-90 for the diff.

 

 

 

My exhaust doesn't have anymore carbon on it

[datzenmike]

A quick submerge shouldn't hurt the tranny or diff. The vents are high up on the tops. If the vehicle sits in the water long enough and cools, the warm contracting air will suck water in. I doubt this has happened so...

 

If you haven't changed either the trans or diff in 30K then do so. Otherwise check the oil level with finger. Water sinks so it will displace the oil up. If it pours out the fill hole then it needs draining. If the oil is milky or silvery change it.