svo521 Posted August 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 I read threw the thread and there's a lot of things I really like in it. I may of missed it but what is that m/c from originally? MC is 79 280zx 7/8 bore i believe but its been a couple weeks since i bought it so i could be off a year taking a break from brake bleeding gonna finish tomorrow.. Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 wife was sneaky and got some shots of me......only way to catch me in a picture :-) drove it twice today need to get it aligned( Wednesday) but other than that it feels great... may keep the 400 pound springs in there for now but it really needs 450s..... Note. had to remove the brake pedal rod and adjust the length(grinder) to allow enough end play for the M/C to function correctly. Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted September 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 Update...... have put about 250 miles on it now including 2 scrap runs. One was about 600 pounds the other 900 pounds. Everything is doing great(still need aligned). I have it toed in about 1/4 inch and my camber is dead on -1/2 degree but I know my caster isn't equal on both sides so it wanders a little. Had it up to 73 mph with no death wobble yay!. One thing i can say about these light coils... extreme weight transfer to the rear when launching :-) 1 Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Searching the wrecking yards tomorrow for a tasty 720 third member to help with my gearing(65 mph at 3300 rpm in 5th). Going to paint the rear wheels while they are off.... or look for some bolt on shiny stuff :-) Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted September 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Ok ran into problems. Got new idler arm and both inner tie rod ends from Moog today. Took it apart cleaned up the center link for paint... but when i test fit the new rod ends they start a little but then seize as if they are metric going on standard or wrong thread pitch. Hoping i can figure this out, did they change threads on that bar at some point or is this just poor manufacturing? I dont really want to put it back together with the old crap again.......... Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Ok ran into problems. Got new idler arm and both inner tie rod ends from Moog today. Took it apart cleaned up the center link for paint... but when i test fit the new rod ends they start a little but then seize as if they are metric going on standard or wrong thread pitch. Hoping i can figure this out, did they change threads on that bar at some point or is this just poor manufacturing? I dont really want to put it back together with the old crap again.......... There is a right and left hand thread on the center link, maybe you tried putting them on the wrong ends, I always have bought the center link complete with tie rods, that way I know it works. I have not ever run across different thread slopes, but I actually have never bought just the tie rod ends before either. If you cannot get them to fit, order a new centerlink, when it comes in, take the new ends to test fit before leaving the store. Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted September 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 yea its for sure wrong threads they start but thats it. When swapped to opposite sides they dont even act like they belong so gonna order a new center rod.... these ends cross over to a 620(i told them it was a 521) so maybe there is a variation between the 521 rod and the one for the 620 (read somewhere that they are different but not 100% sure).. but any way thanks for the input ill hit up the parts house in the morning I am driving this thing to Manteca on the 12th even if i have to get something custom made hehe Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 yea its for sure wrong threads they start but thats it. When swapped to opposite sides they dont even act like they belong so gonna order a new center rod.... these ends cross over to a 620(i told them it was a 521) so maybe there is a variation between the 521 rod and the one for the 620 (read somewhere that they are different but not 100% sure).. but any way thanks for the input ill hit up the parts house in the morning I am driving this thing to Manteca on the 12th even if i have to get something custom made hehe 521s are SAE, while the 620 is metric, that is quite likely the issue, take your centerlink also, make sure they are the same length. 1 Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted September 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 521s are SAE, while the 620 is metric, that is quite likely the issue, take your centerlink also, make sure they are the same length. Awesome!!! thanks for the confirmation on that. I really appreciate the timely response :-) Another problem solved... this may be the case for anyone trying to buy new rod ends for a 521, the computer at most parts houses lump the 620 and 521 together as the same components, even though they are not exact in some cases. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Awesome!!! thanks for the confirmation on that. I really appreciate the timely response :-) Another problem solved... this may be the case for anyone trying to buy new rod ends for a 521, the computer at most parts houses lump the 620 and 521 together as the same components, even though they are not exact in some cases. I believe that my statement is true, but I don't own, and have never owned a 620, so I don't know for sure that SAE/metric is the issue, but I have heard that 521 bodies are put together with SAE nuts and bolts, and 620 bodies are put together with metric nuts and bolts, this is what I have heard others say, but maybe I am hearing things, which is not out of the question. :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted September 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 I believe that my statement is true, but I don't own, and have never owned a 620, so I don't know for sure that SAE/metric is the issue, but I have heard that 521 bodies are put together with SAE nuts and bolts, and 620 bodies are put together with metric nuts and bolts, this is what I have heard others say, but maybe I am hearing things, which is not out of the question. :lol: you heard right about 521 being SAE on most of the body, chassis, brake lines etc. Had to replace allot of it piecing this thing back together. So i would not be the least bit surprised that the threads on steering are SAE... just wasn't sure if the 620 was metric. But either way I think we are on the right track now. Also the interchange list from Moog states these are for 72 and up 620 only. I will update when I have a solution... or a mental breakdown lmao Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted September 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 Ok i now have a one piece center link(using adjustable outers from a 720) couldn't wait till tuesday for a new rod for a 620. smoothed out the threads on the old shaft so the new ends slide on 20 1/4 center to center and welded the snot out of them with some 6011 :-) Now that everything is new and i took up some slack in the gear box..... Im driving a new truck wow it even rides better on rough roads :-) Now its time for an allignment maybe lol Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 got it aligned today.... first time anyone else but myself has driven it since i have owned it..... I explained my funky pedals and he said cool no problem...... well after hitting the rev limiter in 1st and almost doing a full 180 spin he says yea your right it is tricky lmao but it is way better now.... caster was the only thing not in the green(just one side) and now its great!... rear axle is a little out of thrust alignment probably needs new bushings in the leafs... have to take care of that when i swap in this hf37 from an 85? 720 :-) may or may not change it before the 12th......... Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Driving a friend to sacramento airport early in the morning..... anyone in the area want to meet up for a coffee? I'll buy :-) Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 While in Sacramento, I stumbled upon SVS R&D Department. I wanted to check out their hourly rates for dyno time etc. It was really nice to finally talk to someone who knows what megasquirt, ms2extra code etc. is :-) When i told Steve i was using the stock 30 pound low z injectors with a resistor box(microsquirt can only handle 5 amps per bank... you can run 8 high z's with it but only 4 low z's with a resistor in line to each injector), he grabbed a set of 38 pound high z's from a 99 volvo s70 engine core and told me I could have them for free......can't wait to swap them out! Please don't laugh to much about these next pics...... a harbor freight truck bed extender, some lumber and some indoor/outdoor carpet...... and now my boat fits in my truck :-) 3 Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted October 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Got the injectors swapped out. Made some jumpers to replace the resistors in the box, so i can switch between low and high z injectors if needed. Spent about $7 at napa for new o rings and maybe $10 in fuel to run auto tune. These injectors work so much better. Before I was having allot of afr fluctuations at cruise(i think the old ones dripped) and now i can get it down to 15.3 at cruise without surging. new o rings installed they look happy in there now it's a jumper box... (thinking about getting creative with some leds) Huge difference in power and drive-ability... This was the first time on dry road that i have had wheel spin at the top of 4th :-) 1 Quote Link to comment
AlliedPerformance Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Wow! I had that same idea but ended up going a different direction. Im sure thats a riot to drive 1 Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted October 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Wow! I had that same idea but ended up going a different direction. Im sure thats a riot to drive it's a blast! Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted October 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 before after 2 inch blocks installing a 5 inch disc supertrapp as soon as i get it from summit :-) Quote Link to comment
Mikeystoy Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 I have a 2.3 tc just waiting to go in my Courier as well as a spare from a Merkur that I've been considering putting into my pinto goon. I need that inter cooler though. 1 Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 I'm not big on Ford but what you've done is pretty F'n cool........great build!! Good meetin' ya a couple weeks ago on the fun run... Keep up the good work!! Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Awesome build. Makes me want to start the Megasquirt 3 project bad. So you are using Tuner Studio? Such a great program! Can't wait to see what you put down on the dyno! Quote Link to comment
'70dime Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 I love the run whacha got mentality. I can't imagine what its like to spin at the top of 4th in a 40+ year old mini truck. Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted December 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 I have a 2.3 tc just waiting to go in my Courier as well as a spare from a Merkur that I've been considering putting into my pinto goon. I need that inter cooler though. gonna be getting a front mount or a water to air intercooler soon.. if you still need it by than its yours :-) Quote Link to comment
svo521 Posted December 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 My Brother and I took our trucks out for some back road bashing. We stopped at the old radar base for pics. I try not to hate on his luv too much... :devil: Quote Link to comment
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