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[•••DTP's © 240z project •••]


I'm BLUE

poll vote just for fun loz  

68 members have voted

  1. 1. is this v8 datsun project blasphomey? lolz

    • no ... i love v8 swaps
      20
    • yes ... traitor lolz
      17
    • I like turtlez
      31


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^^fixed^^

 

Seriously, you're making pretty good progress (considering the friggin mess). I wish there was enough room to back up and get a pic of the whole car setting on the ground. Can't wait to see this one on the road.

 

Thankyou much DRIVEN :thumbup:

man ... I am a messy worker lol.

 

I Definetly need to re-organize my workspace :lol: .

 

I'll definetly get a pic of the whole car sitting on the ground once it's out and about :D ( even where it sits in the garage at the moment you wouldn't be able to tell much lol)

 

I still need some early z31 5-lug 300zx hubs to convert the front to 5-lug 5x114.3 , coordinating machined spacers , and toyota 4-piston calipers. Then I will be able to fit the other Bullit wheels in the front ! I've been having a hard time tracking these down. At the timeI gave up and focused on other aspects of the car.

I'll get back to tracking those hubs down soon.

 

I too can't wait to see this on the road :cool:

 

Apparently every one likes turtlez more than your car lol!

 

:rofl: hahaha ,,, never thought about it that way , but yes ... yes they do ! :lol:

 

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtlez > DTP's V8 240z = lolz

 

Turbo that V8!!!!

 

Not a bad idea .. :D

I honestly never really thought about this ..

mostly because I've been busy with the rest of the car... and probably will be the rest of my life :lol:

 

I'll have to research :ninja:

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It would be a blow threw system I've seen small and big block V8 with single and twin turbo set ups some use low boost and still put out some good power. I'll find a YouTube video and post it, I don't think it that expensive there's always cheap ways to have a good set up.

 

Here's a few and there homemade shit lol

 

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Brother gave me some Rhodes Lifters for this :D

 

Rhoads_Lifters.jpg

 

Friends that have had these like them.

 

Best explained below (credit to Jegs.com)

 

" For maximum low end torque, engine vacuum and fuel economy, you need a smaller, more efficient cam. But smaller cams rob mid and upper RPM power needed for fast acceleration. For more mid and upper RPM power, you need a larger, more powerful camshaft. But larger cams are murder on low-end torque, engine vacuum, fuel economy and idle quality. With Rhoads Lifters, you get both! Rhoads Lifters work automatically and give you a ''smaller'' cam at lower RPM and a ''larger'' cam at higher RPM for the best of both worlds. How you ask? At idle and lower RPM where lugging power and more torque are needed, Rhoads Lifters ''bleed down'' to make you cam seem smaller by about 10°. This really boosts low-end torque, engine vacuum, fuel economy and idle quality. At higher engine speeds where more cam boosts mid and upper RPM power, the Rhoads Lifters work to restore full lift and duration of your cam for maximum top-end power. As your engine revs higher, Rhoads Lifters bleed less because there is simply less time to bleed at higher engine speeds. Near 3500 RPM, the bleed action has virtually disappeared, shifting back to your full cam and maximum horsepower potential back into action. Here's an example:

Using a hydraulic cam with 280° duration and .450'' valve lift, here's approximately what the valve timing will look like inside the engine at various RPM using Rhoads Lifters vs. stock lifters:

 

Rhoads Lifters Stock Lifters Duration Lift Duration Lift @ Idle 260° .425'' 270° .450'' @ 2000 RPM 265° .435'' 270° .450'' @ 3500 RPM 270° .450'' 270° .450''

 

Stock lifters don't vary the valve timing. Rhoads lifters do. Stock lifters can ''pump up'' at higher engine speed, drastically cutting power. But Rhoads Lifters actually help to eliminate pump up, adding as much as 500 more usable RPM on the top-end. You can even hear Rhoads Lifters work! They make a mild ticking sound at idle, which tells you they're

working to boost low-end torque, vacuum and fuel economy. When the size of your cam is ''reduced'' for more low-end torque, the valves seat at a slightly faster rate, producing a mild, solid lifter sound. This sound gradually dissapears as your RPM increases, ''restoring'' your cam to its full size for maximum top-end power. "

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  • 2 weeks later...

IMAG2133_zpsbe52c62d.jpg

 

4-75844C90-107643-800_zpsbdd432c7.jpg

 

IMAG2134_zps07158271.jpg

 

Found a flat casting spot on the front .. top portion of the pumpkin/diff case.

I did what every insane man would do .. I stuck the angle finder on it. Pretty close.. interesting ! :devil:

 

4-440A2E8D-109775-800_zps0e4a1860.jpg

 

4-3526DBE8-89874-800_zps764c01af.jpg

 

Stuck the angle finder on drivers side axle tube. It was a touch sticky on the needle (angle finder).

Safe to say that was well and ok to go ahead.

 

IMAG2132_zps9371a2f2.jpg

 

Angle finder confirmed this floor is pretty level to set-up the sub-frame mock-up and 4-link angles.

 

Quite amazing what you can do with a cut-off wheel/cut off saw , angle finder , and tape measurer when you really stop to think about it.

 

Sub-framing and 4-link angle setup is next. This includes rear-axle/car weight , spare tire , fuel , and driver weight hopefully.

#600 springs does not leave much room for compression lol.

The car compresses .5 inches on the springs without fuel , spare , and sub-framing weight.

At the time it was safe to say up to 1-inch compression parked.

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Guest 510kamikazifreak

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Quite amazing what you can do with a cut-off wheel/cut off saw , angle finder , and tape measurer when really stop to think about it.

 

:rofl:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Damn.... :cool: .... . that looks good!!! .... :thumbup: ..... .

 

Thanks INDY ! :)

I'm hoping it will look decent in the next pictures with the rest of the goodies(crap) I've been adding on to the sub-structure ... :lol: :lol: !

Have no clue where the dual-exhaust would fit under here :lol: ..except some dump tubes out the side just in front of the rear tires .. which I always have liked :sneaky:

 

So that's all that's left of the Z car after cut off wheel?? ... :lol:

 

:rofl: hahahaha ... oh man ...

Sure is feeling like it :lol: and... looking like it :lol: !!

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MOAR! Lol just lock yourself in the garage for a week, shit will get done!

 

hahaha

Well... there is food storage in there... not sure wtf is in the boxes or cans... could be worms ... beggers can't be choosers !

Sleep in the z with welding blanket ..

Guess I could shit in the fram filters and chuck them at the mail-man each day (jk)

Take showers in degreaser ..

brush teeth with valve grinding compound.

and use grease as deodorant.

Hiss at the mail-man through a little creepy peek hole :lol:

 

Two damned long days this weekend working elsewhere kept me from my true love ... project BLUE BALLS !

 

Moar fabrication progress updates soon hopefully :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Spring retainers upper and lower are in. A small portion is temporary.

I decided to weld in some items on the differential end and leave others tacked as I choose...

 

My plans are ever changing , and this pile of "goodness" is going to poke into the passenger's compartment about 23.5 inches in from the axle centerline .. :lol:

 

Last Current picture

 

IMAG2233_zps955ef54f.jpg

 

----- Working on this setup currently in the picture below ( ms paint :lol: ... )---------

Blue = shocks (currently located in the back of diff .. may not be attached in the picture due to welding.. may re-locate to front )

Red = Inner wheel well width for attachment area's (welding/fastening/etc) ( it is an approximate guesstimate by eye from memory lol)

Green = sub-structure being built of mostly 1"x3" and possibly some 1"x1"

 

davidsrearsubframemodded_zps91e90784.png

 

Bottom bar (closest to you in the picture) is going to be welded to the inner rocker's (over-sized about 1" on each side for fitment cut-down) .. inner-rockers will likely be lined/replaced with same 1"x3" tubing as well. Floor will be re-framed with tubing/rails.

Tri-angulation as much as I can where I can.

Design of sub-structure/back frame is ever changing as well as clearances involved.

I'm probably driving you guys nuts at this point lol

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