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aftermarket header? sorry i made another thread!


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saw this on ebay and im not at my truck to see what my stocker looks like, lol. would this be a worthwhile investment? i dont plan on doing the ka swap for a few months or a year as i want to make sure the motor is perfect before it goes in. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-510-620-720-header-L20B_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33631QQihZ009QQitemZ190210644301QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

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If it was made for a 510 then it won't fit a 620 because of the torsion bars let alone it was for a n L16 and now is 3/4" higher on an L20. If it's for a truck it might fit a 510 but the steering box and linkage is right there. $50 is cheap. But I wouldn't put one on if they paid me $50.

 

Assume you get both manifolds off and don't snap a bolt, and further you bolt the header up and it, and the intake doesn't have a leak. You may find like I did, that you have to remove the driver's torsion bar, undo the tranny mount and lift the motor off that mount for installation clearance. You still have to cut your good down pipe and clamp the collector to it. Do you see a collector with it? Alright you get it installed and long before it gets frosty out, and your carb now ices up every 1/4 mile, because there is no carb heat, (never did before) you are thoroughly sick of that annoying loud drone coming from the motor. You've stopped showing it off because it's all rusty and you have to either fix the leaks or tighten the ever loosening flange bolts. You would gladly put it back to stock if you, 1/ could find that damn manifold (and a new down pipe) and, 2/ if you didn't have to spend all the time and BS switching it back.

 

I figure it will take 20 posts worth of time to install.

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$50 for the header, $60 for shipping, $25 for the gasket, $30 for a new intake manifold, and $200 for a new exhaust at the shop.

You must be loaded to be wasting that kind of money on an engine that you're going to pull out in a few months to a year. OH wait, you don't have enough money to fix your brakes properly.... is this thread even nessisary???

 

and no, it won't add even ONE horsepower to your stock L-series. Its a waste.

Just fix up your L-series engine with factory L16 manifolds and forget a KA swap. How is your RB swap going?

 

oh, no posts for week too. Don't forget.

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If it was made for a 510 then it won't fit a 620 because of the torsion bars let alone it was for a n L16 and now is 3/4" higher on an L20. If it's for a truck it might fit a 510 but the steering box and linkage is right there. $50 is cheap. But I wouldn't put one on if they paid me $50.

 

Assume you get both manifolds off and don't snap a bolt, and further you bolt the header up and it, and the intake doesn't have a leak. You may find like I did, that you have to remove the driver's torsion bar, undo the tranny mount and lift the motor off that mount for installation clearance. You still have to cut your good down pipe and clamp the collector to it. Do you see a collector with it? Alright you get it installed and long before it gets frosty out, and your carb now ices up every 1/4 mile, because there is no carb heat, (never did before) you are thoroughly sick of that annoying loud drone coming from the motor. You've stopped showing it off because it's all rusty and you have to either fix the leaks or tighten the ever loosening flange bolts. You would gladly put it back to stock if you, 1/ could find that damn manifold (and a new down pipe) and, 2/ if you didn't have to spend all the time and BS switching it back.

 

 

So Mike,what are you trying to say?:lol:

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  • 4 weeks later...

the ka swap is out indefinitely, but i still want to do it, and the rb is taking longer than expectes. i have decided once it is complete this month, to sell it. i like the truck better and i can enjoy ir more :) anyway, i have one last question... not saying i question ANY of you, not even you kiznook, but if the headers are so bad ( i have done more research now as i should have then and have decided on the L16 mani) why do they continue to make them!?! i KINDA understand the reason for the cars, but why us?

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the ka swap is out indefinitely, but i still want to do it, and the rb is taking longer than expectes. i have decided once it is complete this month, to sell it. i like the truck better and i can enjoy ir more :) anyway, i have one last question... not saying i question ANY of you, not even you kiznook, but if the headers are so bad ( i have done more research now as i should have then and have decided on the L16 mani) why do they continue to make them!?! i KINDA understand the reason for the cars, but why us?

 

Because some people just like to say that their car/truck has a header. I have a NISMO header on my car personally. Does it make a difference? I don't know, but most likely it isn't that big with a fairly mild motor like mine.

 

Its like why people put big wheels, huge exhaust tips, etc. on their cars...mostly just for street cred.

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kinda on the same note, is there ANY reason to gasket match an header......any at all....waste of time? only reason i ask is imma grind the outside to get it smooth and then high temp paint it before install and i'll prolly already have the dremel out.........

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... not saying i question ANY of you, not even you kiznook, but if the headers are so bad ( i have done more research now as i should have then and have decided on the L16 mani)

 

 

 

OH MY GOD....NOT EVEN KIZNOOK? Or Bleach? Or Hainz? You won't question EVEN THEM?

 

 

Who cares if people post to much? It's hard to find information sometimes.

You guys take this site way to Fucking seriously. It's not like its a union board and seniority counts for something here.

 

Let 'em post.

 

 

 

 

 

 

dd:fu:

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Its like why people put big wheels, huge exhaust tips, etc. on their cars...mostly just for street cred.

 

 

Or if you have a pre-smog California vehicle and want to get rid of all the little smog ports on the exhaust manifold(read: threaded plugs that will leak exhaust sooner or later).

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Or if you have a pre-smog California vehicle and want to get rid of all the little smog ports on the exhaust manifold(read: threaded plugs that will leak exhaust sooner or later).

 

in that case would the best course of action be to have it welded shut and smoothed? well not smoothed, but who likes shoddy looking work!?!

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Because some people just like to say that their car/truck has a header. I have a NISMO header on my car personally. Does it make a difference? I don't know, but most likely it isn't that big with a fairly mild motor like mine.

 

Its like why people put big wheels, huge exhaust tips, etc. on their cars...mostly just for street cred.

 

 

 

I would fall in that catagory of saying " i have a header " I hope this fits my 521

04-20-08_1900.jpg

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Headers are basically for race use.A highly modified L/Z22 with larger 280z valves,twin mikuni/dellorto/webers and a monstrous cam would do well with a header.Also headers are way better than an emissions type such as the later l20bs.Cheaper to ship than a stock L16 mani.More clearance to work on stuff.Different exhaust noise.Long tubes are supposed to add low end torque.Useful in pre runner racing.

There are advantages to a header but in most common cases it is worthless.I have run a few and never had one that was a problematic leaker.I say just build the l motor up and go with it.

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Headers are not bad.It's just the factory did an ultra-bitchin' job of designing the manifolds.Where the header excels is in the upper RPM band where 95% of our motors WON'T be operating at.

Exhaust tuning is a science.People think-throw the biggest pipe at it,lower back pressure as much as possible and you're off!That approach works for Diesels-not gas engines.

 

Header length,primary diameter,collector diameter all effect the final out-come.If we take sound preference out of the equation,the formula that works the best is this:

2.25 inch head pipe(or the size of the collector reducer) into the biggest muffler you can fit.Then a 2 inch tail pipe.Bigger tail pipes mean more noise and do nothing for power.:(

 

Note:high RPM builds,turbos etc,change the equation.

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yeah, it would be a lot more work. the stock mani is cast(textured) no matter what you do to it, you're not going to make it look anything but half assed unless you plug weld, grind and polish the whole exterior, and extrude hone the inside to keep hotspots from popping up because of the intrusion in airflow inside the downtube.

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yeah, it would be a lot more work. the stock mani is cast(textured) no matter what you do to it, you're not going to make it look anything but half assed unless you plug weld, grind and polish the whole exterior, and extrude hone the inside to keep hotspots from popping up because of the intrusion in airflow inside the downtube.

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i don't understand the problem with a header, i've had 1 on my 620 since the day i put the motor together, i got mine from a company here in phx az. called pacesetter, they make a short header that works for 510, and 620 applications, took me aprox 1.5 hrs to do, and i do have an increase in flow , torque, and horse power, i may have only gained a few horsepower, but there is a differance that i can tell,it is interchangable with, l16, l18. and l20b engines they also offer it in round port, rectangle port..u can get them at http://www.pacesetter.com..just depends on what u want, i'm an old schooler, and i stand behind headers, and no they are not only for racing, i've put about 67,000 miles on mine and no gasket leaks either..so ck it out for yourself..:) by the way it only costed about 50.00/ 60.00 dollars to have the collecter pipe hooked to the exsisting perf exhaust that i had before on the truck.

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i don't have a picture, and it was 1 year ago that i bought my new 1 from them for my king kab..i may have the receipt, but i'll have to look when i get home:)

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i just contacted pacesetter, they discontinued the datsun header not to long ago, although they still make luv , and toyo headers, go figure that out..:confused:

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