Anyone running a 1" Wilwood Master Cylinder?

[dennis]

Just curious, is anyone running a 1" Wilwood Master Cylinder? If you are, how do you like it compared to the 280ZX MC? Any modifications to get it to work?

[dennis]

Well you can use this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-7563/?rtype=10

 

You will need to use a proportioning valve for the rears or they will lock up prematurely. This is supposed to be a direct bolt in application. Would like to know about pedal feel still.

[yello620]

I would not hold your breath on that being a direct bolt in. It looks like it will bolt in fine, but the lines fittings are SAE, not metric like we need to have.

 

However, i have been thinking about getting one of them as the price of the 280zx 15/16 bore keeps going up and up.

[datrod]

I have the 1" wilwood master but I haven't put it in yet. Mine came with little adapters SAE-MM

[dennis]

I am thinking about running one and getting this proportioning valve https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=6047 they have it in -3AN and that is what I am converting over too. I would have to mod any MC to -3AN anyways so I'm not worried about that. One of the guys over at the realm said it was made for a 240Z rear disc conversion.

[yello620]

I have the 1" wilwood master but I haven't put it in yet. Mine came with little adapters SAE-MM

 

Good to know about the adapter, i did not know that.

 

Please update us when you install it.

[INDY510]

Just curious, is anyone running a 1" Wilwood Master Cylinder? If you are, how do you like it compared to the 280ZX MC? Any modifications to get it to work?

 

if you have troy's brakes you shouldn't use anything bigger than a 7/8ths master ....... unless you have a power brake booster

 

 

my kit from Troy came with a 7/8ths master for the 12.2" front rotors and 11.5" rear rotors.... . . so you shouldn't need any bigger master than 7/8ths

[dennis]

if you have troy's brakes you shouldn't use anything bigger than a 7/8ths master ....... unless you have a power brake booster

 

 

my kit from Troy came with a 7/8ths master for the 12.2" front rotors and 11.5" rear rotors.... . . so you shouldn't need any bigger master than 7/8ths

 

I'm just running the rears from Troy. I might get the fronts from him too, just running 280ZX stockers on there for now. I'm running a 7/8ths now and it kind of sucked when I was driving it, I thought it was supposed to be 15/16ths with discs all around.

[yellowdatsun]

There's a very high probability that you'll hate the pedal feel for a 1" master cylinder, unless you have the equally massive multiple-piston calipers they are designed to go with. If you use that big of a master on regular style brakes the pedal will be very stiff, and not in a good way. I know, I've done it.

 

It's not that it's "only" 1/16 larger than the 15/16's, but when you increase diameter the volume increases exponentially, not linearly. A 15/16 master has .69 inches of area, and a 1 inch master has .78 inches of area, which (if my math is right) is a 12% difference. Which is A LOT.

[dennis]

There's a very high probability that you'll hate the pedal feel for a 1" master cylinder, unless you have the equally massive multiple-piston calipers they are designed to go with. If you use that big of a master on regular style brakes the pedal will be very stiff, and not in a good way. I know, I've done it.

 

It's not that it's "only" 1/16 larger than the 15/16's, but when you increase diameter the volume increases exponentially, not linearly. A 15/16 master has .69 inches of area, and a 1 inch master has .78 inches of area, which (if my math is right) is a 12% difference. Which is A LOT.

 

Thanks, I guess I will just go with the 15/16ths 280ZX.

[sinner720st]

I would not hold your breath on that being a direct bolt in. It looks like it will bolt in fine, but the lines fittings are SAE, not metric like we need to have.

 

However, i have been thinking about getting one of them as the price of the 280zx 15/16 bore keeps going up and up.

 

why not use 15/16 out of a 720?

[yello620]

why not use 15/16 out of a 720?

 

Because the mounting bolts of the later stuff(720) is vertical and our early stuff(510/620) has mounting points that are horizontal at the booster/firewall.

 

 

I dont intend to install the larger 1" master until i can get the four piston calipers on the front of my truck.

[datzenmike]

Because the mounting bolts of the later stuff(720) is vertical and our early stuff(510/620) has mounting points that are horizontal at the booster/firewall.

 

 

That can be overcome.

 

All but the '80 720 masters has the F and R outlets on the left side. This would place them into the left strut tower on a 510. :lol:

[calistile]

I'm in the middle of actually putting in the 1" Wilwood MBC. It did come with SAE-MM adapters so it mates up fine to the distribution block. My issue now is using that damned China made flaring tool kit. All my double flares have come out like crap. I'm buying a new flaring tool today hopefully that is better to fix the hardlines from MBC to distribution block, and re-do one double flare for my front passenger side hardline since I'm doing all Earl's stainless lines now.

 

 

[albyneau]

I'm in the middle of actually putting in the 1" Wilwood MBC. It did come with SAE-MM adapters so it mates up fine to the distribution block. My issue now is using that damned China made flaring tool kit. All my double flares have come out like crap. I'm buying a new flaring tool today hopefully that is better to fix the hardlines from MBC to distribution block, and re-do one double flare for my front passenger side hardline since I'm doing all Earl's stainless lines now.

 

I had a NAPA DFT for years until the I literally wore out the threads, and the small arbor broke. Bought one from www.Summitracing.com and it turned out to be an imported POS. Then got a kit from Craftsman, and it's the BOMB! Twice as much initially as Summit's~ but in the long run cheaper, and I'm quite satisfied with my purchase...

 

Peace~

Scott

[dennis]

I bought a Harbor Freight one and it works fine. I do apply some lubricant between the dies and on the threads, oh and i did this on stainless too.

[calistile]

I got the Harbor Freight one also, but don't do the lubricant on the dies. I'll try this though because I broke this flaring tool in no time. I made 3 successful double flares, and maybe 5 bad ones, and now the dies are shot, and the wing-nuts all snapped off. But I replaced it with some hex nuts. I saw this pretty nice one on youtube and summit, but it was like $209. :blink: I guess you (I) get what you (I) pay for.

[dennis]

I got the Harbor Freight one also, but don't do the lubricant on the dies. I'll try this though because I broke this flaring tool in no time. I made 3 successful double flares, and maybe 5 bad ones, and now the dies are shot, and the wing-nuts all snapped off. But I replaced it with some hex nuts. I saw this pretty nice one on youtube and summit, but it was like $209. :blink: I guess you (I) get what you (I) pay for.

 

I learned the hard way. I changed out a bunch of blower pulleys for myself and friends and after three of them I screwed up the threads on the puller. If I would have lubed it up properly I wouldnt have had to spend the money on buying a replacement.

[calistile]

And which lubricant do you use exactly? Just WD-40 or something else? Thanks for this thread. It's helping in my brake build, side by side with my SR20 build.

[dennis]

And which lubricant do you use exactly? Just WD-40 or something else? Thanks for this thread. It's helping in my brake build, side by side with my SR20 build.

 

I used anti seize on the threads and the flare. Make sure you use some acetone to clean off the metal/flare when you are done. I just used a rag to wipe off any excess off the threads of the flaring tool.

[socaldatsun]

Sorry to bring up an old thread, I have beebani z32 calipers up front and Isuzu disc in back with a 7/8 bmc. Lately I feel like the brakes aren't at the fullest potential for how masive these calipers are. Been looking around and when I found out that the wilwood master cylinder is a bolt in made me think. How do you guys think it would work for my set up? I also have ears stainless lines so changing out the fittings isn't an issue

[hosestop@msn.com]

Hey are you running a vac booster ? if not it will be a hard push on brakes with 1" I always think the firewall will crack from a hard pedal , I have a truck master on my car and tends to lock front under too hard of braking ,but works great when slight drag braking on corners, I am considering that 1980 200sx , was a stock 4wheel disc car .

[socaldatsun]

No booster, have little to no space I between my bmc and clutch cylinder. Only way to use one is to mount to a pedisdastule witch makes the bmc almost come out te grill aha! I kinda figured since I have four pot calipers up front it wouldn't feel as hard

[Rocket Dog]

I'll dog pile on here. I bought the front disc brake kit for my 521. Now I'm wondering if I need a brake booster and pro portioning valve? I think a 1978 620 truck booster will fit. I looked at Wilwood valves but don't know what diameter to go with. Do I need a stronger (than stock) brake master cylinder? Anybody done this already?

 

I know I can go without the booster but if so I won't get the full benefit of front disc brakes unless I really crush the brake pedal.