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Truck turns off


Jovan Munoz

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I need some help so i changed my carborator on my 620 and put a weber, but the problem is that when im running my truck seems to turn of and then it take about 3 turns of the ignition to turn it back on and it does it quite often just wondering if anyone had some advice. Im thinking it has to do with the spark or the starter ?

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Im thinking it has to do with the spark or the starter ?

 

 

why would it be the starter ? when the starter only starts the motor!

 

Ask yourself basic questions first.

Did this happen before the carb swap? if not then your indroduced a proplem with the swapped part. is this part new or Used?

 

when this dies next time cycle the gas and see if you see gas squirting in the carba.

 

if anything else was changed let us know.

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I need some help so i changed my carborator on my 620 and put a weber, but the problem is that when im running my truck seems to turn of and then it take about 3 turns of the ignition to turn it back on and it does it quite often just wondering if anyone had some advice. Im thinking it has to do with the spark or the starter ?

 

 

The motor just shuts off while driving or at idle?

 

3 turns of the key to get the starter to crank the motor over? or do you mean three turns of the motor before it starts?

 

Not much to go on but I'll assume that it was fine before the swap. So the thing swapped is at fault or something was removed and not put back correctly during the swap.

 

Most usual cause is a vacuum leak under or above the adapter plate used to fit your Weber to the intake. This will cause very poor idling and stalling at lights.

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Ok so more info:

Before the swap the truck was fine, but the carburator was bad so there for i replaced it.

The truck turns off both wen it is in idol mode and when I am driving it. I really love my truck and i want to fix it asap so that i can drive around. Nothing like datsun's

 

 

another thing sometimes as i turn of the truck it seems like it keeps on running so i am sure the timing is off. I have tried to mess with the timing but nothing does the trick. And when i first turn it on in the morning the ideal sound really bad almost to the point of turning off. I was wondering if it could be my spark plugs or maybe the wires, or even the rotor ?

 

 

The motor just shuts off while driving or at idle?

 

3 turns of the key to get the starter to crank the motor over? or do you mean three turns of the motor before it starts?

 

Not much to go on but I'll assume that it was fine before the swap. So the thing swapped is at fault or something was removed and not put back correctly during the swap.

 

Most usual cause is a vacuum leak under or above the adapter plate used to fit your Weber to the intake. This will cause very poor idling and stalling at lights.

 

Yea i just have to keep on craking on the starter so that the engine starts, but it only does this sometimes

 

The carb is brand new

 

Have you checked the alternator/battery?

 

Better to diagnose than just start throwing parts at it.

Definitely cheaper.

 

Brand new battery, but maybe my alternator is running to week cuz i am running two 12 inch subs and a 1700 watt amp

 

 

Im thinking it has to do with the spark or the starter ?

 

 

why would it be the starter ? when the starter only starts the motor!

 

Ask yourself basic questions first.

Did this happen before the carb swap? if not then your indroduced a proplem with the swapped part. is this part new or Used?

 

when this dies next time cycle the gas and see if you see gas squirting in the carba.

 

if anything else was changed let us know.

 

Ok so more info:

Before the swap the truck was fine, but the carburator was bad so there for i replaced it.

The truck turns off both wen it is in idol mode and when I am driving it. I really love my truck and i want to fix it asap so that i can drive around. Nothing like datsun'sanother thing sometimes as i turn of the truck it seems like it keeps on running so i am sure the timing is off. I have tried to mess with the timing but nothing does the trick. And when i first turn it on in the morning the ideal sound really bad almost to the point of turning off. I was wondering if it could be my spark plugs or maybe the wires, or even the rotor ?

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Does the Weber have an electric choke???

If yes, is it wired up and working?

When moror cold does the choke plate on top close?

When warmed up does the choke plate on top open... fully open???

 

It does have and electric choke and it is wired up. Is the choke suppost to be open wen cold or open when warmed up ?

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Im thinking it has to do with the spark or the starter ?

 

 

why would it be the starter ? when the starter only starts the motor!

 

Ask yourself basic questions first.

Did this happen before the carb swap? if not then your indroduced a proplem with the swapped part. is this part new or Used?

 

when this dies next time cycle the gas and see if you see gas squirting in the carba.

 

if anything else was changed let us know.

 

What do you mean by cycle the gas and were do i check to see if it is squirting ?

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The Stock Alt would be really stressed if you add AMPs and Subs, but I dont see why it would act up after you did the swap and not before, unless you added the stereo stuff after too.

 

Any idea how many PSIs you are running on the fuel line? I know some Webers are sensitive to fuel pressure abover 3 PSI, especially if you are not running a return line anymore.

 

So if you start the car up and let it run it dies? Or is it you drive it for a while and then turn it off (like to get gas or go to the store) and then try to start it again it doesnt want to start?

 

Any vacuume leaks?

 

webber carbs direct has a troubleshooting guide on thier website too may be worth looking at,

 

 

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CHECK THE GAS PUMP MAYBE NOT ENOUGH GAS PRESURE FOR NEW CARB.

 

I got a universal gas pump and it still does it, i changed the coil for the starter and it seems to be driving different, but the idle is really bad now, i think i just have to twieck the gas line in the carburator

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If I can just add my two cents. I'm certainly no expert, I'm just gonna add my experience with my 620. So I usta have this annoying problem with my truck,, I'd be driving down the interstate and hit a bump and the truck would turn off. Then I noticed the keys would slop in the ignition and the actual 'jarring' or the key almost falling out of the ignition would kill the truck. So I replaced the: ignition lock cylinder, which helped. However, this wasn't my whole problem, the main battery cable goin' to the starter was completely eff'ed. You might check into one of those. Or are you 100% convinced it's from the carb you threw in there?

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It puts the lotion on it's skin, or else it gets the hose again.

 

First of all, that puny little 35/40/45/50A alternator is *not* going to give you anything but headaches with that much power draw going on.

Period. We all know from experience.. er... well some of us do. I certainly have. Lights dim on bass hits at night?

 

Options on an L-series would be late 70's 280zx atlernators. Slightly higher output, some nearly double. Do the internal regulator swap.

You can also use a SOHC KA24E alternator mount on L20B blocks. They are a perfect fit, and have a single bolt mounting configuration.

 

Other options are the ~93 Delco-Remy Saturn alternator swaps, just requires a pulley-swap from serpantine to V-groove, and a clockwise alternator fan.

Lots of amps.. and available almost anywhere if it goes out. There's a whole write-up, just search "Saturn Alternator". Powered my system & lighting upgrades flawlessly.

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The trouble with the higher 50/60 amp output car alts is they are physically larger around and don't fit very well above the idler arm in the 620. The 720 uses them but the idler arm was mounted on the other side of the frame rail and isn't a problem. The 90 amp is the min. output I would use.

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I was rewiring the power feed for the stereo. I added a fuze to the line at the battery. While installing the new fuze holder, I'd occasionally bump the fuze-able link. Every time i bumped the fuze-able link, I'd hear the relays start clicking. I found that the wire inside the insulation was broken. It looked fine as long as I didn't move it.

 

If the fuze-able link went 'open' while driving, would the engine die?

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